Polyurea but no flakes?

[MBABGarage]

Hey everyone, first time poster here. I tried to find a thread with anyone's experience with Polyurea and no flakes, but didn't have any luck.

The 40x60 slab for my steel building was poured last week and was power troweled so the finish is pretty smooth. The building goes up next week!

I am going to have 2 main sections to the garage. A 22x40 garage/workshop with a lift, and a 38x40 "showroom" to park and show off the finished toys (of course there will be a bar in there ).
I am pretty set on going with Polyurea for the showroom and haven't yet decided between Ghostshield 4500 densifier plus 8510, or Legacy Industries HD40 for the workshop area. I think there are plenty of threads out there to help me decide that. Thanks to everyone for their contributions to those!

I'm planning on either acid etching or diamond grinding, but haven't decided yet. I'm worried about acid etching around the steel columns and causing any problems there so I may just grind. Anyone ever etched a floor around red iron steel columns or even the side walls for that matter and had problems?

The big question of the day for me now is, does NOT doing flakes on a Polyurea floor affect the performance of it at all? My plan is to do one coat of tan or grey, and then do the anti-slip mixture with a clear top coat. I really like the clean look of a solid colored floor. I just want to be sure that the flakes are not something that is required for the added strength of the floor.

My hope is to do this one time and then not have to worry about it again for at least 10-15 years. Hopefully the Polyurea is the correct choice for such a light use facility.

I appreciate anyone's thoughts, experience and feedback!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Hey everyone, first time poster here. I tried to find a thread with anyone's experience with Polyurea and no flakes, but didn't have any luck.

The 40x60 slab for my steel building was poured last week and was power troweled so the finish is pretty smooth. The building goes up next week!

I am going to have 2 main sections to the garage. A 22x40 garage/workshop with a lift, and a 38x40 "showroom" to park and show off the finished toys (of course there will be a bar in there ).
I am pretty set on going with Polyurea for the showroom and haven't yet decided between Ghostshield 4500 densifier plus 8510, or Legacy Industries HD40 for the workshop area. I think there are plenty of threads out there to help me decide that. Thanks to everyone for their contributions to those!

I'm planning on either acid etching or diamond grinding, but haven't decided yet. I'm worried about acid etching around the steel columns and causing any problems there so I may just grind. Anyone ever etched a floor around red iron steel columns or even the side walls for that matter and had problems?

The big question of the day for me now is, does NOT doing flakes on a Polyurea floor affect the performance of it at all? My plan is to do one coat of tan or grey, and then do the anti-slip mixture with a clear top coat. I really like the clean look of a solid colored floor. I just want to be sure that the flakes are not something that is required for the added strength of the floor.

My hope is to do this one time and then not have to worry about it again for at least 10-15 years. Hopefully the Polyurea is the correct choice for such a light use facility.

I appreciate anyone's thoughts, experience and feedback!

1. I would not etch or grind before doing a penetrating sealer. You will create a dirt magnet. The exception would be multiple grinds where the first is used to remove a coating or sealer and subsequent grinds (finer grits) bring back the smooth surface profile.

2. Flake in a random broadcast system are decorative in nature.

3. If you do do a polyurea system, I would highly suggest a fine anti wear anti skid additive

 

[bigjon]

I acid etched in my steel shed prior to coating and had no issues. Perfect world you would grind as it provides a better and more consistent profile for coatings. I found I had to etch several times to get the profile I wanted.

 

[benwah]

I agree, grind the floor. Polyurea has a very short working time and does not penetrate very far into the floor so you need an aggressive profile.

And single color is just fine. I prefer that look also. If you want to apply a clear over it, just use a clear polyurea. Easy floor

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
We find that with our SPGX polyurea just a light etch is all that is needed. The etch gets diluted and we have never had a single complaint of it affecting columns or other surfaces.

Since SPGX is a highly protective surface often used as a topcoat, our product does not require a clear topcoat since it's basically the exact same product, just not tinted. Flecks are optional and we do recommend using our Armorgrip nonskid in the coating.

We carry Ghostshield if you go that route, but they are different products, Ghostshield is a penetrating product, SPGX is a topical product.