Polyurethane on prefab shed floor?

[Platonic Solid]

I purchased a used prefab 12 x 24 shed/garage with 8’ walls from sheds unlimited for $3800 which is less than half the price of a new one (+$1400 for delivery from PA to CT). I'll post pics later. I was going to build it myself, but this deal was too good to pass up. This is a shed they used for 2 years. The 5/8” plywood floor was pretty dirty, so I decided to put a second 5/8” underlayment plywood over it.

Shed is sitting on gravel with typical 4x4 skids. I've had to partially block off the space between the 4x4 skids to keep the groundhogs and foxes out. There's still some air flow.

Purpose of shed/garage is general and lawn equipment storage (lawn tractors, log splitter, string trimmer, cement mixer …). Since some of these are likely to leak a little oil or hydraulic fluid, I was thinking it might be a good idea to throw some polyurethane on the plywood to offer some protection from misc fluid drips. Only concern is whether putting poly on there is more likely to shorten the floors life due to potentially trapping moisture.

 

[Bretny]

Why bother? Personaly i wouldnt have bothered laying a second layer of plywood down just because the first was dirty. For the price you prob could have put a way better floor down if your now wanting a finished floor.

 

[Stuart in MN]

As long as you have air flow underneath it should be okay. I'd put on a coat of poly, it will make it easier to keep clean.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Bretny - Yes, it's just a prefab shed. In addition to it being filthy, they didn't use T&G so I could see through the seams. It only cost me $220 and a few hours of my labor to install the second layer, it made the floor more firm, so now I get to be the one that trashes it and most importantly - it makes me feel good when I'm in there

 

[mike93lx]

I would leave it bare wood if it is really just storage. A little oil or gas isn't going to materially impact anything.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here's a pic of the shed right after it was delivered.

(click pic for larger view)
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[yeldogt]

I have used oil poly on all of mine .. two coats on the floor. My last two were all pine (except the floor - marine plywood) -- so I gave one coat to the inside. Most years I take everything out of them and using a pressure sprayer -- I hit them with bleach and car wash

 

[Skiff Builder]

I stained and poly'd my wood garage floor. Hot tires,wet cars,oil,paint,dried boat building epoxy,etc. No ill effects after 3 years hard use. I like it.

Easy to blow out or vacuum. B/C pine, did not do additional sanding. Enough texture to not be slippery ,except when working with alot of Azek or Versatex.

 

[D45]

I have two layers of PT plywood on my sheds floor

I wouldn't bother with urethane

 

[bargainhuntingking]

I’d say you got a good deal. Nice shed. Please post some pics of the inside.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I have used oil poly on all of mine .. two coats on the floor. My last two were all pine (except the floor - marine plywood) -- so I gave one coat to the inside. Most years I take everything out of them and using a pressure sprayer -- I hit them with bleach and car wash

Holy **** - I can't imagine pressure washing the inside. I assume you poly'd the walls too then. In my case I figured PT plywood was pointless since the layer I nailed it to isn't PT. I did screw the original plywood to the joists prior to nailing the second layer. No construction adhesive - to make future replacement possible if necessary.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I stained and poly'd my wood garage floor. Hot tires,wet cars,oil,paint,dried boat building epoxy,etc. No ill effects after 3 years hard use. I like it.

Easy to blow out or vacuum. B/C pine, did not do additional sanding. Enough texture to not be slippery ,except when working with alot of Azek or Versatex.

Nice. Exactly what I was thinking WRT not sanding giving the floor a no slip texture. I'm thinking no stain - just clear poly to keep in light - since there's no power out there except the occasional extension cord.

 

[Platonic Solid]

What about application method? Can I just pour it on and trowel? Or roll, or some other special applicator that makes life easy that I'm not aware of?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Step-dad has an old summer kitchen that he uses as a woodshop, it was moved in from another location, and he put new underlayment down on the floor. He put a few coats of marine varnish on it 30 plus years ago and has had no issues. It sits up on blocks, like a short pier foundation.

 

[mike93lx]

Nice. Exactly what I was thinking WRT not sanding giving the floor a no slip texture. I'm thinking no stain - just clear poly to keep in light - since there's no power out there except the occasional extension cord.

Hold on... You aren't going to have an amazing lighting layout? What's the world coming to?!

 

[Platonic Solid]

Hold on... You aren't going to have an amazing lighting layout? What's the world coming to?!

LOL - running power out there is a whole different project that I'm not sure is worth it. I have a single $15 Maxlite shop light hanging in there for the moment (Yes, I'm ashamed and embarrassed). The whole idea is to clear out all the stuff I have in the house garage and several other areas that have been collecting **** over the years. Then I may actually be able to use the house garage for shop work. I also have a small poorly built 8x10 shed attached to the house that's full of stuff and needs to be rebuilt properly. And stuff under the deck and a 29' 5th wheel camp trailer that I want to get rid of, filled with stuff.

 

[yeldogt]

Holy **** - I can't imagine pressure washing the inside. I assume you poly'd the walls too then. In my case I figured PT plywood was pointless since the layer I nailed it to isn't PT. I did screw the original plywood to the joists prior to nailing the second layer. No construction adhesive - to make future replacement possible if necessary.

Pressure sprayer -- not power wash. The pump kind for "roundup" etc.

Mine have all come from a place in PA -- they ship them all over. 5/4" B & B pine with PT base and plywood. I stain the outside and give the inside one coat of poly -- at least two on the floor. Mine have typical double doors -- solid pine roof.

They get dirt and bugs over time -- it's easy to pull everything out one morning when it's going to be hot and sunny .... spray it all down inside and out --- hose it out. All dry later in the day to fill back up. The one I have in the burbs is 20+ years old.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I’d say you got a good deal. Nice shed. Please post some pics of the inside.

They're not the best pics, but here you go. These are before I installed the second layer of plywood. I haven't taken pics of that yet.

(as always - click pics for larger view)







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There was some damage that I have since band-aided. Need it to be mouse proof. Considering the price, I'm not complaining.

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[homelessdespot]

Nice, a fellow nutmegger. I'm in Norwalk. Did the PA company put that gravel down or did you do it yourself? Do you just dig out the grass, gravel and rough level?

You don't need a permit for something that small right? Sorry for all the questions, considering doing something similar. Also, considering a company that ships prefabbed garages to CT.

 

[Platonic Solid]

homelessdespot - Shed company does not do the pad. My pad construction is a rather long painful story - (in brief) I live on a hill. El Cheapo Contractor #1 made a pad that was out of level by over 2ft -took 2 months to not finish the job and didn't respond to any contact attempts. Contractor #2 did an incredible job - 3 guys 12 hrs 1 day - started at 7 AM and was hydroseeding by 7 PM. Cost for Contractor #2 = $5400. Contractor #2 owns the local gravel and fill place.

This is Connecticut - though exact requirements vary by town, you likely do need a permit. I had to get 3 approvals/permits:
1st ($100) from health district to make sure it wasn't too close to septic or leach field.
2nd ($85) from Zoning who I provided a drawing showing structure was within all setbacks.
3rd ($51) (price is a calculated percentage of shed cost) from building dept who provided the actual posted permit and inspection. Building permit is required here in OS for any structure over 200 sq.ft.

https://shedsunlimited.net/ is very low cost even after shipping.

Here are before and after shed pad pics:

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[Platonic Solid]

These 2 pictures of Contractor #2 give you an idea of what was involved with my shed pad. Yours may be significantly cheaper if you have easy access and a level property.

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[homelessdespot]

Thanks Platonic, they did a real nice job. That gives me a much better understanding of process and cost. Trying my hardest to find a house to buy with 1-2 car garage, but may have to have shed or garage built if I find one without that I can't pass up with level land.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here is another before and after shed pad shot to better understand the ha$$les involved with living on a hill:

All material had to be dumped at the top and skid steered down to the pad.

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[homelessdespot]

Oh wow, you weren't kidding about hilly, that's a lot of seed and repair just for the path back there.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Just came back from the paint store with 2 gallons of DRYLOK Platinum E1 Epoxy Floor Paint (link to mfr website) and 1.5 Gallons of Zinsser Cover Stain White Oil-Based Interior/Exterior Primer and Sealer (had to buy the primer in 1 quart containers as the 1 Gal. size is no longer allowed in CT). The guy at the paint store seems to know his stuff and this is what he recommended for my application.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Happy 4th all!
Finished putting new plywood on floor and added a small attic space to store longer 10' to 12' items that I never seem to have a good place for.

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[Platonic Solid]

Finished priming and painting the floor. Took 5 quarts of primer for one coat and 1 gallon of the floor paint for 2 coats. I returned the 2nd unused gallon. Instructions state not to apply more than 2 coats.

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[bad_idea]

Looks good. Garage Journal strikes again! I would have never considered finishing the floor in my shed. Now I question how I have lived like this all these years.

 

[mike93lx]

Looks good. May already be on your list, but I would install some metal trim at the entry to protect that edge and it might be worth raising the ramp to meet the floor better, if you'll be rolling stuff in and out much

 

[Platonic Solid]

bad_idea - We'll see how well this holds up. The primer states "not recommended for floors" and the chemical resistant paint only has instructions for cement application - makes no mention of wood, but does mention previously painted surfaces. It definitely made it easier to sweep and makes it feel less like a shed and more like a garage.

mike93lx - The shed came with a diamond plate threshold. I had to cut my new plywood layer short of the threshold to prevent garage door interference. I rounded the edges of the plywood in that area with a rotary sander.

The ramp may be a bit stubby, but the lawn tractor clears it. I built it with leftover PT lumber from the rat-shack project. The ground outside the shed briefly slopes up, which permits a shorter ramp. I plan on digging out the lawn in that area and laying a bed of gravel for improved drainage so the ramp lasts longer.

 

[nastorino]

Man that is a nice find and foolish to pass up. When we moved to our new place in CT in the fall the house came with a Carefree shed that was 10x12. The weeds were growing inside it more than on the exterior. Side door is rotted out and hinges fell off. Front double doors are held on by moist screw holes that won't release the screws luckily. Aside from that the frame itself is great. While this thing could use new siding and larger doors it will never fit my garden tractor and bagger and the attachments for it plus yard tools.

I think I'm going to go with the initial route you were taking to build one next spring. My FIL knew a guy that had buddy that worked for Kloter Farms that gave him prints for a 16ish by 24ish shed. I'm thinking that's the route I'm going to go. Plenty of room for my current stuff and then fingers crossed for a John Deere 2 series in a few years.

BTW Colchester here