Polyurethane or BLO?
- Thread starter Fatboy148
- Start date
Shiftless
Well-known member
Each has its advantages and disadvantages. What work will that bench top see?
I have the same top and I went with multiple coats of poly. Looked great and it was easy to wipe clean.
But I got careless with carb cleaner soaking a towel. That dissolved the coating.
I have the same top and I went with multiple coats of poly. Looked great and it was easy to wipe clean.
But I got careless with carb cleaner soaking a towel. That dissolved the coating.
brianh
Well-known member
Like said, depends on what it is for, BLO will not seal against liquid so staining can be an issue. When I use oil base poly I thin it with mineral spirits 30-40 percent and wipe on with a lint free cloth let dry sand with 600 grit repeat. It takes more time but comes out like glass after about 6 coats.
Most of my furniture I just spray with the gun.
Most of my furniture I just spray with the gun.
royce
Well-known member
The big advantage to oil is you never have to refinish, just wipe another coat on.
With varnish or polyurethane, when it gets tattered, it needs to be sanded and or stripped to be restored.
Royce
With varnish or polyurethane, when it gets tattered, it needs to be sanded and or stripped to be restored.
Royce
Thus my question.....
I've been tossing this back and forth for a while and I need to "get 'er done".
To answer your question.... This is going to be my "dress up" work bench. I have a real work area in my shop. This is in my garage attached to the house where I am keeping all my "nice" tools. The tools that I have used for decades will remain in the shop.
Between the tool boxes, I did the 2 1/2" square steel cage to accept 2" hitches for vises. Over the bench, I have already installed 4 - 30" x 30" Gladiator cabinets and I am building a 24" wide x 30" open shelf cabinet that will that will be centered between the two sets of Gladiator cabinets. It has 5 cut outs on the bottom shelf for battery powered tools to slide into. Above that will be a shelf for the battery chargers and a couple other shelves that are yet to be accounted for. Between the top of the "Steevo" frame and the bottom of the cabinets, I installed the galvanized Wall Control "peg board". The maple top buts up against the pegboard and covers the bottom 2" of it.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Sounds like a good application for multiple coats of thinned down satin polyurethane. Don’t forget to source a handsome vintage American vise for your new workbench.
Thanks for your input. I have two vises set aside for this area, not vintage BUT both American made. A Yost 203 - 3" and 865 DI - 6.5" that I was able to purchase 2-3 years ago before they went offshore manufacturing these models.
Shiftless
Well-known member
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
Check out MinWax tung oil finish, it is a wipe-on oil/varnish blend. I did my maple butcher-block bench top with it and it came out real nice. It did take multiple coats to satisfy me but I am very happy with the results.
Bill
Bill
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Kaizen
Well-known member
Check out rubio monocoat if this is a piece of furniture. Very expensive but supposedly goes a long way and just one coat. Everyone seems to love it.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
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Shiftless
Well-known member
Here’s a shot I took 2 years ago after I found a used IKEA countertop (Craigslist $40) that had been used for a work and craft and dining room table for a house with young children. A few minutes with a planer and then a belt sander to get rid of crayon marks and coffee mug rings then 6 coats of thinned down polyurethane wiped on and here it is.
25 inches by 6 feet
25 inches by 6 feet
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I have used this before. Your counter looks nice. Thanks for your input.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
I would do an epoxy coating. The stuff is indestructible when it comes to fluids. its 1/8" or so thick depending on how thick you apply it. Its self leveling and it will remain glossy but will end up with fine scratches after tons of use that can be wet sanded/buffed out.
I will never go back to an oil or poly finish on a wood work surface. Pick your color of stain, then epoxy coat it. I chose gloss for this one and after 2 years and very happy with the results and durability. It is available in satin also. you can see where a bug got into the epoxy in the first pic and the approximate 1/8" thick.
I will never go back to an oil or poly finish on a wood work surface. Pick your color of stain, then epoxy coat it. I chose gloss for this one and after 2 years and very happy with the results and durability. It is available in satin also. you can see where a bug got into the epoxy in the first pic and the approximate 1/8" thick.
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I would do an epoxy coating. The stuff is indestructible when it comes to fluids. its 1/8" or so thick depending on how thick you apply it. Its self leveling and it will remain glossy but will end up with fine scratches after tons of use that can be wet sanded/buffed out.
Looks very nice. Personally, I have never worked with this. My brother in law did a live edge "coffee" table for his bride and imbedded shells from the shore in the valleys between the pieces of wood. Needless to say, he poured his. Just wondering how you do the edges..... Can you brush this on if you don't need it to be 2"-3" thick?
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
that is what I did. I taped the bottom so it wouldn't run under the bottom. brushed it on with a foam roller at first, then switched to a brush. there is a strand or two stuck under it that I didn't see until it was too late. Use lots of cardboard on the floor for drippings... there is still remnants on the floor two years later
Epoxy is cool, and very durable but expensive and the application process has a steep learning curve. Plus, all flaws are very noticeable and very permanent.
Wipe on poly is great, easy, and cheap. European hardening waxes ie Rubio, Woca, etc... are super easy to apply, look great, can reapply easily, but not as robust and $$. Tung oil and BLO are similar but even less robust.
Personally, I think the wipe on poly is the way to go. Nice stress free application, fairly strong top coat, easy enough to refinish, cheap, and looks great.
Wipe on poly is great, easy, and cheap. European hardening waxes ie Rubio, Woca, etc... are super easy to apply, look great, can reapply easily, but not as robust and $$. Tung oil and BLO are similar but even less robust.
Personally, I think the wipe on poly is the way to go. Nice stress free application, fairly strong top coat, easy enough to refinish, cheap, and looks great.
Thanks for the input guys. The epoxy is indeed intriguing! I have a call into my brother in law for his input as he's been down the epoxy highway (my guess is he's still out enjoying the awesome day we were given today). It looks like I would need a couple gallons to do two light coats on my top. Looks like there are multiple sellers on Amazon that have it for about $65.00 a gallon and most seem to be happy with it. Having said that, I have poly and BLO already on hand!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I'm heading back outside again now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I'm heading back outside again now.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
I would disagree. the kit was 40 bucks at lowes or home depot. No special learning curve. goes on like a thick paint.
+1 to wipe on poly. If you decide down the road that you don't like it, it wouldn't be that big of a deal to strip it and apply a different finish.