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Polyurethane top coat suggestions

Atamido

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Round Rock, TX
What polyurethane top coat should I get to put over a two part epoxy for the garage floor?

History:
I did my garage floor 5.5 years ago using two coats of Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional (a 2-part epoxy), and then a top coat of EpoxyShield Premium Clear Coating for a clear top coat. Overall, I'm happy, but the clear coat has been yellowing.

Assignment
I've been assigned to paint the garage floor of the father-in-law's new house in a few weeks, and would like to try the suggestions in The Garage Journal's reviews and put down a full covering of flakes with a polyurethane top coat, to protect from the harsh Texas sun.

Criteria
  • Handle a large truck being parked on it daily, with tires heated in the Texas sun
  • Exposure to direct Texas sunlight
  • Full flake coverage on horizontal surfaces
  • 7+ year life
 
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Atamido

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Round Rock, TX
I've been searching for the past several hours and have found these two options explicitly mentioned in the forums:

Devoe Devthane 379UVA Aliphatic Urethane Gloss Enamel Paint
Legacy Industrial: HD322 high performance urethane
Benjamin Moore Corotech High Gloss V515 Aliphatic Urethane Coating
Rust Bullet Clear Shot
Garage Flooring LLC TL321 High Performance Aliphatic Urethane

The garage is 400sqft, so either seem like good options. But it's not clear to me if I'd need multiple coats. This article indicates one should use 3-4 coats over flakes to get full coverage.
https://allgaragefloors.com/garage-floor-top-coat-options/


On another note, that Garage Flooring LLC package for 500sqft for $555 with urethane top coat looks tempting. It seems like a good price, and simplifies the purchase. But I'm not sure I'm sold on a water based primer. There also doesn't seem to be a way to order another gallon of 93% solids epoxy.
 

Shea

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,866
Location
California
Keep in mind that applying a polyurethane clear coat over epoxy will prevent the clear from yellowing, but it will not prevent the epoxy from yellowing underneath unless you are doing a full flake floor. Also, the Rust-Bullet clear shot is best used within the Rust Bullet line. FYI - Rust Bullet gray does not yellow.

An excellent choice would be the newer single-part polyurea coatings such as the one ArmorPoxy suggested. We have an article below that explains why.

https://allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
 
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Atamido

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Round Rock, TX
The polyurea systems are nice, but outside of my budget.

@Shea: I really do like the guides. They do a great job of distilling out a lot of the information in a way that simply wasn't available when I did my first floor. Thanks.

I do plan on at least doing a heavy spread, and living with any yellowing that occurs in the gaps. I feel like that's a happy median.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
If doing a rejection floor or close to it, (2) coats of our Nohr-S Polyurea is the way to go over the flakes. Does a dandy job!!

Our HD322 is great but too thin for the amount of flake you are talking about, for one coat.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
What polyurethane top coat should I get to put over a two part epoxy for the garage floor?

History:
I did my garage floor 5.5 years ago using two coats of Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional (a 2-part epoxy), and then a top coat of EpoxyShield Premium Clear Coating for a clear top coat. Overall, I'm happy, but the clear coat has been yellowing.

Assignment
I've been assigned to paint the garage floor of the father-in-law's new house in a few weeks, and would like to try the suggestions in The Garage Journal's reviews and put down a full covering of flakes with a polyurethane top coat, to protect from the harsh Texas sun.

Criteria
  • Handle a large truck being parked on it daily, with tires heated in the Texas sun
  • Exposure to direct Texas sunlight
  • Full flake coverage on horizontal surfaces
  • 7+ year life

For the new floor I would suggest our polyurea full flake kit. https://www.garageflooringllc.com/polyurea-garage-floor-coating-kits/

I am always hesitant using new product over old. There are some inherent risks and while we can make a product suggestion, we cannot offer a warranty other than to say the product we ship you will be manufactured to standards.

I would use SKU: TL356PAVOC-1 from this page https://www.garageflooringllc.com/tl707-garage-floor-epoxy/

I would scuff the floor with 100-110 grit, solvent wipe and coat.
 
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Atamido

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Round Rock, TX
I am always hesitant using new product over old.

This is for a brand new house, with no previous garage coatings, oil, etc. Ideal for something new, but I'm on a budget so won't be doing polyurea.

I'm curious if the TLK500TC kit needs a second gallon of polyurethane to completely fill in the flakes with 12lbs of flakes over 400sqft. What's the difference between the TL356PAVOC-1 and the TL321? And there is a schedule for how long each product must set before applying another layer?
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
This is for a brand new house, with no previous garage coatings, oil, etc. Ideal for something new, but I'm on a budget so won't be doing polyurea.

I'm curious if the TLK500TC kit needs a second gallon of polyurethane to completely fill in the flakes with 12lbs of flakes over 400sqft. What's the difference between the TL356PAVOC-1 and the TL321? And there is a schedule for how long each product must set before applying another layer?


We include plenty of urethane. The floor will have some texture but flakes will not be exposed.

Yes. Recoat times are in the tabs at the bottom of the page.

321 is a traditional high end aliphatic. 356 is an upgraded MCU with better chemical resistance properties
 
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