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Pondering Garage Bumpout

strizzy

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Apr 4, 2006
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572
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Western NY
Hello All, been away awhile and had a lot of changes going on in my life over the past couple years, all good! Hopefully this is the right section.

I do have a have a "problem" though, my garage is too small... I was thinking about doing a small bump out (6' x 16') off the back/side of the garage. This would allow me to reuse the siding. Here is the backside of my garage, the bump out would be where the dog kennel is, starting flush with the house corner (6' out) and would terminate just before the existing man door on the garage which I would leave as is (some where in the neighborhood of 15 to 16').

P1030516.JPG


Here is a picture of the attic of the garage showing the trusses. The wall here is the back wall where the kennel is pictured. Would I need an engineered beam (lvl?) to span that 15 to 16 feet so I could blow that wall out? That truss over the wall is different and the wall may appear to be load bearing? I would love just to use some 2x12s...

P1030517.JPG


This is just our "5-10 year" house and don't want to get carried away...

Thanks for any and all comments.
 
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mac5

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Apr 19, 2012
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Thats a gable end wall which has min to no vertical load on it. It should an easy addition.
 

Real McCoy

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Gaffney SC
Hard to tell from the pic but from the roof I guess the garage is detached? How do you plan to do the roof? Match what you have or what? Like mac5 said, that back wall is not load bearing in any way. You may be able to reuse some of the siding but what will you do for the rest? Color match may be a problem with 10 yr old siding. Reuse the old siding on the end where it mates with old siding then use new on the whole new end so a corner will help hide any color mismatch.
 

OccupantRJ

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Since you are going more narrow than your existing structure, this will work out just fine, as the roof line will drop vertically below the level of the existing roof, assuming you are going to use trusses, versus a shed style roof. The existing wall should be just fine as is, other than cutting a hole of the proper size, and properly framing it out. However, if the ceiling heights work out to be different, I would use a header in the opening, especially in the case of using a shed style roof, as this will allow attachment and support of the rafters and/or ceiling joists. A truss style roof is more self supporting. Here are pics of a shed roof addition that I did to my detached shop, to show a shed roof version. My building is 25 feet wide, so I had to go 20 feet wide on the addition for the roof line to clear the existing overhang.
 

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strizzy

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Western NY
Thanks for the reply guys.

Real McCoy, it is attached to the house, it is just the roof detail that makes it look otherwise.

OccupantRJ, that is essentially what I want to do. I was hoping on doing a header and a shed just like that with a slightly steeper pitch. I would like to start it a foot or two below where the gutter is in the corner as to make it as simple as possible.

The driving force behind this is it will give me a couple more square feet, and I would add a small mud room in the garage to move the door into the kitchen a little farther away from the powder room (that corner of the house) and the basement door (three doors and shoes dont mix...). And because the garage is attached, I will be able to use all the siding that is there now so it will all match.
 

OccupantRJ

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Be aware that my shed roof addition is on the rear of my shop, which is hidden from the street. Personally, if I was adding onto my home, I would do an A style roof with trusses, as this will look more like it "belongs" there. You're only talking one end truss, two intermediates, and rafters alongside the house, or either another truss instead. Either way, you will need more siding than you have on the end wall for re-use, as you are adding 12 feet of wall. You could use the old siding on the wall facing the street and on the wall on the rear, using new on the long wall.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Be aware that my shed roof addition is on the rear of my shop, which is hidden from the street. Personally, if I was adding onto my home, I would do an A style roof with trusses, as this will look more like it "belongs" there. You're only talking one end truss, two intermediates, and rafters alongside the house, or either another truss instead. Either way, you will need more siding than you have on the end wall for re-use, as you are adding 12 feet of wall. You could use the old siding on the wall facing the street and on the wall on the rear, using new on the long wall.

What about having to redo the cricket roof between the house and garage?

strizzy, I'd definitely do the shed roof and listen to only framers and/or roofers that have been down this road.
 
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strizzy

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Western NY

Very interesting, although I could see myself not letting go of the fact that the floors dont match. Thought had crossed my mind of tiling the whole floor though because of the spalling on my existing floor...

Here is a better shot of the same area of my house:
IMG_0191.JPG

Would have to move my heat pump, but my wifes uncle is an HVAC guy, just not sure if I want it under the powder room window, or other side of the house (more work).

Here is a shot of my roof lines:
IMG_0192.JPG


And a real quick sketch of my general idea:
quickmock.jpg


I personally dont think it would look that bad, I would try to pitch the roof pretty close to existing and finish the soffits the same, etc.

We have a fairly small rear yard as we are on a corner lot at an angle and dont really want to chew up space with a shed (or just put one right behind the garage).

Thanks again guys, love bouncing ideas off of people for feedback.
 
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strizzy

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What about having to redo the cricket roof between the house and garage?

strizzy, I'd definitely do the shed roof and listen to only framers and/or roofers that have been down this road.

Never knew what to call that roof section, cricket roof! Thanks :beer:

I personally don't think a shed roof would look bad, but I'm lame...
 

cgall

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I would be tempted to run the shed roof the entire length and relocate the man door to be parallel to the garage door.
 

Daniel Dudley

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I too would be tempted to go full width. I'd probably push out a bit as well.
 
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JasonW

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Looks like you are on the right track based upon your sketch. This should be a very simple addition to complete. One side note or suggestion is that you continue to pickup the rain water from the cricket roof and bring it via down spout either into the rain gutter on the new roof or fully to the ground. It will protect the roof from uneven and accelerated wear.

Do be aware, if you are not already, that though the existing wall has little to no load on it, you will be adding a load from the new roof. You can pick up that load up with a header, posts and pads just outside the existing wall or in the existing wall itself. I don't know if you have issues with snow loads there, perhaps it is not an issue at all.
 
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strizzy

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Western NY
I would be tempted to run the shed roof the entire length and relocate the man door to be parallel to the garage door.

I too would be tempted to go full width. I'd probably push out a bit as well.

Thought crossed my mind, just thought at that point looking at the front of the garage, it would look a little off seeing the shed roof. Also the height needed for the door might push it so close the the existing at that corner that it might also look odd.

Looks like you are on the right track based upon your sketch. This should be a very simple addition to complete. One side note or suggestion is that you continue to pickup the rain water from the cricket roof and bring it via down spout either into the rain gutter on the new roof or fully to the ground. It will protect the roof from uneven and accelerated wear.

Do be aware, if you are not already, that though the existing wall has little to no load on it, you will be adding a load from the new roof. You can pick up that load up with a header, posts and pads just outside the existing wall or in the existing wall itself. I don't know if you have issues with snow loads there, perhaps it is not an issue at all.


Yeah thats a good idea with the downspout, I already have a problem with rain water coming off that cricket roof (you can probably see the stain), rain off the main roof still has momentum towards the house and some of it flows overtop of the end cap of the gutter. Been meaning to make a little catch for it.

I think I might try to get some solid sketches together (cad), and talk with the towns building inspector/code enforcer, he is a sharp guy. I'm hoping a pair of 2x12s over the 15/16' span is enough to support the weight of shed roof (would be less with my mud room, ~4' wide).
 
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JasonW

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Yeah thats a good idea with the downspout, I already have a problem with rain water coming off that cricket roof (you can probably see the stain), rain off the main roof still has momentum towards the house and some of it flows overtop of the end cap of the gutter. Been meaning to make a little catch for it.

Can't tell from the picture but you might also benefit from a 'wider' gutter and could then move the 'exit' to the end closest to the house. Hadn't thought about it before but it seems to be installed backwards relative to the momentum of the water coming out of the valley. I can see why it would splash out. Perhaps someone with more experience would care to chime in.

I think I might try to get some solid sketches together (cad), and talk with the towns building inspector/code enforcer, he is a sharp guy. I'm hoping a pair of 2x12s over the 15/16' span is enough to support the weight of shed roof (would be less with my mud room, ~4' wide).

Definitely talk to him if you can. He can probably pull out his book and tell you exactly what you need to do. At 16' my biggest fear is the effect of the new roof pushing in on the remaining upper portion of the existing wall. If you frame it with the new rafters sitting atop the new header you should be in good shape.
 

zorty

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Feb 26, 2013
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Michigan
I know this thread is over a year old, but I'm about to start a bumpout of my own and was wondering how this project turned out. If this original poster (strizzy) is still hanging around- can you give an update on how things went? Any pictures?
 
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