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Pool Deck Planning & Building

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lakeroadster

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mmb617

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Not code here.

I used 1/2" galvanized hardware and Z post joist tie brackets. 3 bolts per post

2x8 boards used throughout, including the joists

The joist brackets used 1-1/2" galvanized nails.....lots of nailing

20191030_064657_zpsxinxwm8d.jpg

My previous pool deck was built with 2x4s, this new deck will be fine

I love this place and get a lot of useful information from it, but I often wonder what some of these guys think they are building. :headscrat

There is such a thing as cutting corners and building something that's unsafe but what you have done hardly falls into that category.

Way early in your thread you addressed the fact that you have no codes to follow, so that immediately should have stopped those who's first response to everything is "that doesn't meet code", but it didn't.

I would like to know in what world that construction using 3 galvanized 1/2" bolts through the 2x8's is going to fail on a deck that's maybe 4 ft off the ground? :confused:

I used a similar type of construction on the framing of a deck I built in 1987, except I only had 2 of the 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts through each beam, no z-bracket and with 4x4 posts. Some years later we put in a new pool in a different location and I stripped the decking off that framework and built a workshop on that same framing. Here we are 32 years later and the shop is still standing and in use.

My friends think I tend to overbuild stuff. I'll have to show them what some guys on here want to do. I often wonder if they were spending their own money instead of advising someone else how to spend it if they'd follow their own advice.

Hey OP, I think you're doing a good job. From one hack to another. :lol_hitti
 
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D45

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Over built maybe

Life is scary for some and others paid $5k to have a deck built
 
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D45

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Circular saw to cut the posts off flush.......won't be feel enough

Maybe a sawzall ?
 

cj7jeep81

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S.E. Indiana
Circular saw to cut the posts off flush.......won't be feel enough

Maybe a sawzall ?

Just use a square to draw the line all the way around, and cut from each side with a circular saw. If there's a bit it can't reach, a recip saw or normal hand saw will make quick work of it (just did this with about 20 6x6 posts for a deck around a pool). Other option that works pretty well is a chainsaw, but that takes a decent bit of feel/experience to get square. I find it very hard to get a good square cut through a post with a recip saw, but maybe I just don't have enough practice.
 
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D45

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2-1/2" or 3" deck board screws?

Likely will go with a coated version, stainless is too expensive
 

cj7jeep81

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S.E. Indiana
2-1/2" or 3" deck board screws?

Likely will go with a coated version, stainless is too expensive

If using 5/4 decking, I'd use 2.5". If using 2x decking, 3". I would recommend getting ones that use a torx bit. Square drive or philips strip way too much.
 

Dustball

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Hudson, WI
I love this place and get a lot of useful information from it, but I often wonder what some of these guys think they are building. :headscrat

There is such a thing as cutting corners and building something that's unsafe but what you have done hardly falls into that category.

Way early in your thread you addressed the fact that you have no codes to follow, so that immediately should have stopped those who's first response to everything is "that doesn't meet code", but it didn't.

I would like to know in what world that construction using 3 galvanized 1/2" bolts through the 2x8's is going to fail on a deck that's maybe 4 ft off the ground? :confused:

I used a similar type of construction on the framing of a deck I built in 1987, except I only had 2 of the 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts through each beam, no z-bracket and with 4x4 posts. Some years later we put in a new pool in a different location and I stripped the decking off that framework and built a workshop on that same framing. Here we are 32 years later and the shop is still standing and in use.

My friends think I tend to overbuild stuff. I'll have to show them what some guys on here want to do. I often wonder if they were spending their own money instead of advising someone else how to spend it if they'd follow their own advice.

Hey OP, I think you're doing a good job. From one hack to another. :lol_hitti
The chemicals used in today's treated wood is different and more corrosive from what was used in 1987. This is why you don't want to rely on fasteners only to hold up a deck nowadays.

Many new wood treatment chemicals are more corrosive than the old CCA. Hardware that once could be depended on to last for decades now may degrade in only a few years.

90


https://www.deckmagazine.com/design-construction/fighting-fastener-corrosion_o
 

CKS1955

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Oct 12, 2014
Messages
489
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Michigan
2-1/2" or 3" deck board screws?

Likely will go with a coated version, stainless is too expensive

I would highly recommend stainless steel. We built our deck when they were switching over to the new treated lumber and were not aware of the corrosive nature of the new wood. Below is a picture of the screws I had to remove to replace a deck board. Some of the coated screws were so bad there was only small needle of a screw left. Because our deck is older I have switched over to galvanized nails when replacing a board, but if I was building a new deck I would recommend investing in stainless steel fasteners.

Our deck is next to a pool and I believe the chlorine plays a part in the corrosion as well.

Simpson Strong Tie has a white paper out on how to protect connectors from contact with new treated lumber to prevent corrosion. http://www.strongtie.com.au/pdf/tech_bulls/T-PTBARRIER08-R.pdf

Jay
 

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D45

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Grip-Rite #10 x 3 in. Stainless Steel Deck Screw
322 screw
Star drive head
$56.58

Deck Mate #9 x 3 in. Star Flat-Head Wood Deck Screw
#365 screws
Star drive head
$23.78
 

CKS1955

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Michigan
The screws in my post above were Deck Mate screws.

I would go with the Grip-Rite stainless steel.

Jay
 
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D45

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Need to figure out how many screws I guess

Deck boards will use 2 wide, per 16" joist

Deck is roughly 16' wide and 12' deep

I will guess I'll need 34 -35 boards

770 screws roughly, so I will look at 800 screws to be safe
 
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D45

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Nailed all the joist hangers today and cut the posts off flush

Going to pick up 35 top deck boards, a combo ranging from 10', 12', 14' and two in 16'
 

Dustball

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D45

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Those look nice but wow they are pricey

Did you have to predrill at all, when using #10s? They are stout for sure, but I also worry about splitting
 
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D45

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It curves around the contour of the pool shape.....

No need to spend money on 16s, if I only need two
 
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D45

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35 boards according to my guess based on 1/8" gap

Mix of 10', 12', 14' and 16' deck boards
 
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D45

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#10 x 3" stainless deck screws are $44 for a 5 pound box......

#9 x 3" triple coated deck scres are only $23 For a 5 pound box.


Both have a lifetime guarantee. I went with the triple coated....T25 6 point drive head also
 

CKS1955

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#10 x 3" stainless deck screws are $44 for a 5 pound box......

#9 x 3" triple coated deck scres are only $23 For a 5 pound box.


Both have a lifetime guarantee. I went with the triple coated....T25 6 point drive head also

I hope they perform for you, mine certainly did not. Remember chlorine is also corrosive in addition to the treated lumber.

Jay
 
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D45

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Top deck boards are going in place today

Looks like 35 boards was one too many, I just set them all ontop of the joists

Time to start trimming and screwing
 
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D45

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610 screws later, the top deck boards are all down and trimmed to fit

The deck is rock solid

Time to plan the stairs, if I have time and the weather cooperates

48"-50" to the top of the joist, need to figure out how many steps I need to reach out towards the patio
 
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D45

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Rubber coping for on the top deck boards, to be used around the the pool radius?

Or, thick no slip paint?
 
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D45

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What's the best way to secure stringers to the deck?

I see they sell brackets, but are they THAT strong?
 
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