Pool pump tripping breaker

[Marctrees]

Daughter in Phoenix, 10 yr old in ground pool pump allasudden tripping breaker after running 10 seconds.

That's All the info I have at moment, will get more info today.

Afraid of it turning into green slime if not fixed quickly.

Marc

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Not much to go on

Could be a bad bearing causing current to go up.

Need a clamp meter to see what its pulling

 

[yeldogt]

If it's a standard pump ... outside with any rust .... replace it.

I have never had one throw the breaker because of the bearing ..... it would have to have been making a lot of noise for a while and seeze

Unless -- this was first of season. Then you have to see if it will spin .... if it starts .... plan in a replacement soon.

A relatively new pump that has a bearing problem -- may be a candidate for fixing the bearing. Most of the old ones die because of moisture and fall apart.

 

[BD1]

As mentioned check amp draw or try free turning if possible with POWER OFF.
You could try switching wire to another breaker. Breaker could be shot .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marctrees]

Seeing as how she is in Phoenix the pump runs year round.

Marc

 

[ard]

Could be a bad breaker too....

Is there only one motor on the pool? Sometimes pools have a water feature or pool sweep motor- you might be able to swap breaker/wires to see ,,,


edit: lol...loaded this thread, then got sucked into the corona-thread...came back to this, only Wylie had posted. Posted mine, then saw the other replies.

Do those pool pumps have run./start caps? Hot phoenix sun....

 

[alexb2000]

My experiences with pool pumps is that they are designed to fail as a complete unit. In other words DON'T replace the motor, chances are you have lots of wear in the pump as well, and it will go next. I have been through it many times, if you have any problem with the pump or motor, just replace the whole thing. Pool repair places love to just replace the components like the motor because there is a lot more labor in it and chances are they will be back for a pump problem and more labor.

BTW- If that is the original 10 year old pump and motor in AZ, your daughter got all her money out of that one.

 

[yeldogt]

Seeing as how she is in Phoenix the pump runs year round.

Marc

That's what I was thinking ... it's gone.

And I have to agree with Alexb2000. I have replaced motors on superpumps -- but that's in the mid-atlantic with short seasons. At 10 years ... by the time you replace pump parts ... get a new one.

Also -- check with utility and see what rebates are available .... the new multi speed pumps pay for themselves

 

[Terry D]

Have dealt with a lot of service calls on this. Probably time for a new pump and motor. Is a GFI breaker?

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Inertial switch under the back cover of the motor.

 

[Marctrees]

Looks like no more info till tomorrow, hopefully.

Tune in then.

Marc

 

[Falcon67]

>My experiences with pool pumps is that they are designed to fail as a complete unit.

Same. When the motor on our big sand filter started to go, it was cheaper to replace the motor/pump unit than to buy the individual parts. Close valves, remove hoses, remove pump assy, swap fittings, install new unit, replace hoses, open valves, back in operation.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Don't ignore the possibility it's the breaker though.

Went through this with my spa.

I replaced the heater, did 3 or 4 other things, finally called an electrician. He checked and found the breaker was loose in the panel. Tightened it up. Fixed the problem.

Phil

 

[Marctrees]

Yup, I will check/ swap breaker first.

Second will do clamp on reading... She will have to go to HF to buy one.

I am 1000 miles from daughter, need to diagnose over email and phone.

She will send photos including nameplate before she calls me.

Marc

 

[BD1]

How much is a replacement pump? Is existing old ?
Switch wires on breaker as a group of us have said. If same, and pump is old, just replace pump.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marctrees]

Daughter going to HF to buy clamp on meter today.

Marc

 

[ard]

looks like that is a replacement motor on the pump already, no?

 

[Marctrees]

ard - I think you are right.

She said she thinks the motor was replaced onto the old pump about 4 yrs ago.

Frickin Made in China.

I told her if motor is bad that she should buy new motor/ pump unit.


No more info from her yet.


Marc

 

[ard]

if there is a motor cap that has failed, it is a $12 fix

Take that 'lump' off, and LOOK at the cap. Any leaking? Ends bulging???

 

[yeldogt]

Think it's an AO Smith ... Century ..knock off

 

[ard]

Think it's an AO Smith ... Century ..knock off

Looks like a Pentair Whisperflow pump....

 

[Marctrees]

Hey - A few of you here sound like you know WAY more about these than I do.

If you got a few minutes it would be really cool if you posted a quick easy swap bolt in plug and play replacement motor/ pump unit.replacement link.

Current $ budget requires standard single speed... no fancy stuff please.

Amazon is good, but not necessary.

Thank You !!!

Marc

 

[LS6 Tommy]

if there is a motor cap that has failed, it is a $12 fix

Take that 'lump' off, and LOOK at the cap. Any leaking? Ends bulging???

That motor would have a start capacitor, so there would be no leaking or bulging like on a run cap. The terminal end may have a hole in it or be blown out.

Tommy

 

[yeldogt]

The best way to determine proper motor is to see if she can find any information on the pump body ... see what size and type came originally.

The pump body looks like Pentair .. they make good pumps.

Like HVAC service -- the repair people in the pool industry have generic motors they slap on a given pump manufacturer.

I'm most familiar with Hayward pumps ... but they are all similar. The same pump head can have different sized motors. If you can find a number you can at least see what was originally installed.

Two things. For best performance the pump impeller should be inspected to see if it is worn -- a worn impeller will not pump as much water. Also -- the motors usually just switch out very easily -- most pumps have a seal on the shaft that does not come with the pump. Google the particular pump and see what they use .. most have a rubber thing that will whip the water away from the shaft so it stays away from the motor seal.

It's not uncommon for the service people to just switch out the motor -- forget the whip ring and never check the actual seal on the pump. It's very common for the pump seal to drip and in a few years the water will have trashed the pump motor.

Now a good service person will know this and fix what is needed -- the pump seal and even the impeller are not that expensive.

While I have Pentair equipment -- I started out using Hayward pumps ..that's what I use and have fixed many.

FYI -- The booster pumps ... for the cleaners (Polaris) at one time lasted 10 years. The new ones can go in a couple ... cheap stuff from China.

Most of the consumer motors do come from China -- the AO Smith/ Century ,, are a decent product. I do believe my last did come from Amazon.

 

[Marctrees]

I will have her look for info on the pump itself.

Understand now to not 100% go on motor nameplate.

Than you yeldogt.

She will be trouble shootind and replacing DIY, w me helping over phone.

If needed, we plan on replacing w a complete combo unit.

She got the clampon at HF last night, but has not yet gotten back to me.

Marc

 

[ard]

The best way to determine proper motor is to see if she can find any information on the pump body ... see what size and type came originally.

The pump body looks like Pentair .. they make good pumps.

Like HVAC service -- the repair people in the pool industry have generic motors they slap on a given pump manufacturer.

I'm most familiar with Hayward pumps ... but they are all similar. The same pump head can have different sized motors. If you can find a number you can at least see what was originally installed.

Two things. For best performance the pump impeller should be inspected to see if it is worn -- a worn impeller will not pump as much water. Also -- the motors usually just switch out very easily -- most pumps have a seal on the shaft that does not come with the pump. Google the particular pump and see what they use .. most have a rubber thing that will whip the water away from the shaft so it stays away from the motor seal.

It's not uncommon for the service people to just switch out the motor -- forget the whip ring and never check the actual seal on the pump. It's very common for the pump seal to drip and in a few years the water will have trashed the pump motor.

Now a good service person will know this and fix what is needed -- the pump seal and even the impeller are not that expensive.

While I have Pentair equipment -- I started out using Hayward pumps ..that's what I use and have fixed many.

FYI -- The booster pumps ... for the cleaners (Polaris) at one time lasted 10 years. The new ones can go in a couple ... cheap stuff from China.

Most of the consumer motors do come from China -- the AO Smith/ Century ,, are a decent product. I do believe my last did come from Amazon.

lol

are you my east coast doppelganger?

even down to the polaris motor....

She got the clampon at HF last night, but has not yet gotten back to me.

Marc

anyone look at that cap?




Anyway, changing the motor you take apart the impeller section. Usually a nut on the end, BUT you need to remove the pressed in cover on the opposite end of the motor to hold the shaft (it will have a flat or something on it). +1 on a new seal while in there, easy to pop in. As yeldog says, if the pool tech didnt have one on hand, they dont get replaced. If he happened to have it, then youre luck. They are dirt cheap.

GL

 

[Marctrees]

Will look at cap.

She has done nothing yet... Waiting for her to act.

If motor is bad, she herself will be installing new motor WITH pump unit.

Marc

 

[yeldogt]

lol

are you my east coast doppelganger?

even down to the polaris motor....





anyone look at that cap?




Anyway, changing the motor you take apart the impeller section. Usually a nut on the end, BUT you need to remove the pressed in cover on the opposite end of the motor to hold the shaft (it will have a flat or something on it). +1 on a new seal while in there, easy to pop in. As yeldog says, if the pool tech didnt have one on hand, they dont get replaced. If he happened to have it, then youre luck. They are dirt cheap.

GL

Well .... yes, if you are someone who likes to try and fix things vs throw them out -- order the parts only to discover that yours is too far gone. Toss the thing to the curb -- but keep the new parts for 20 years.

OR -- be traveling and have the pool company (or HVAC) come to house -- fix for a crazy price ... only to discover a few years later that you got hosed

Is that you


And yes the Polaris stuff is real junk ... not much you can do. I can give you a great price for a first gen Polars booster rebuilt kit !

 

[ard]

indeed. Ive rebuilt my 380 probably 4 times. The only thing that remains is a fragile chassis w a serial number....

 

[Baydog]

Does the pump actually run for a few seconds, then trip the breaker? Or does it try to run, humming loudly, and then trips the breaker? if the later, and it's not mechanically locked up, it's likely a bad start capacitor under the hump.
if that is the problem, they are $15 or so on amazon. It will be marked with how many micro-farads it is (MFD).
Just pay attention to which wire is on what terminal, swap them one at a time. The terminals are marked. There's likely just the two, but it still matters.
Use caution and insulated needle-nose pliers when pulling the terminals. Don't touch them with bare fingers. Charged capacitors can deliver a big shock. You can short the terminals with an insulated screwdriver to be safe. Just make sure it's really insulated and doesn't have a cracked handle.

 

[yeldogt]

I'm not saying this is the OP's problem .... But, pool pumps sit outside. They are not sealed -- so they get wet and moisture when change in temps. Etc. -- not the same as with a motor inside.

It's been my experience that when you open up an older pump -- all the parts are rusty. This used to take a long time .. but now all the motors come from china and the internal parts rust. I had to replace a 4 year old booster pump -- the centripetal start system was all rusty .. I even broke one of the long bolts trying to separate the parts.

It's a shame ... because these are not cheap motors/pumps

 

[Marctrees]

OK, new info.

Breaker and cap fine.

Problem is water has bypassed seal around shaft and water has damaged motor bearing.

Like someone said above, when motor was changed the seal was probably not changed.

Wf4 pump.

Looking at maybe new motor, AOsmith Mexican made 1 hp for $200, and pump gasket kit, $25.

She is not gonna get into bearing replacement.

Have only looked briefly, but seems pump/ motor unit at least $400.

Comments ?

Marc

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Wow i totally called that one!

 

[ard]

^

Is she doing it or paying labor?

are you sure the seal can be replaced? Nobody F-ed that up before, so that a new part will fail (again)?

At 400 vs 225, Id get the whole thing. Just me. Its already had one motor replaced....

GL!

 

[Marctrees]

Daughter is DIY, pretty capable.

Have looked at parts diagrams and youtube videos... easy as pie.

Marc