POR 15 Floor Armor
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Something that "bites" concrete is usually full of solvent.
Check the tech data.
Check the tech data.
Why would that be an issue?
Their kits seem pricey, but without so much prep pain might be worth it.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It is not necessarily an issue. There are no short-cuts in prep. Be leary of products that don't need or require only limited preparation.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Ahh Scott, what do you know.....the Por 15 tech guy said it's the best so there.... 
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fernando:
Good to have you back. I can tell when you guys are busy as you don't post too much.
I actually like POR 15. I coat my truck frame with it when it starts to show any rust.
Good to have you back. I can tell when you guys are busy as you don't post too much.
I actually like POR 15. I coat my truck frame with it when it starts to show any rust.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I pulled this from the description on the POR website.
"No need for acids; no need to flood your floor with water. Just use our easy degreaser on any heavy oil or grease stains, vacuum away any dust or dirt, and paint right over everything with Floor Armor."
Again, the product may be just peachy but we all know you can't short-cut the prep.
Hate when an epoxy supplier uses the term "paint" in the description.
"No need for acids; no need to flood your floor with water. Just use our easy degreaser on any heavy oil or grease stains, vacuum away any dust or dirt, and paint right over everything with Floor Armor."
Again, the product may be just peachy but we all know you can't short-cut the prep.
Hate when an epoxy supplier uses the term "paint" in the description.
As with any industry the insiders are peeved with incorrect terminology just so the general public will have a better understanding.
I've been very happy with their rust paint, it's held up amazing on my Jeep and trailer. Just wish I could find some long term results of this flooring product. Best I can find is about 6 months of use. No complaints in 6 months, but that's pretty short term for the cost and to how long it should last.
beerdog
Well-known member
Itis probably some type of epoxy coating. The standard POR-15 is simply an epoxy rust encapsulating primer. At leats that is what a friend with 25 years body shop experience considers it to be.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Its almost as if we could end every other sentence on the coatings side with yes, but you still need to prep the floor.
I go back to the 'what if'. What if (which is almost a I guarantee when) the coating fails... Answer... Its covered under warranty... What does that include... They replace the product .... So you bought a product that did not work and they send you more of it. Great...
Understand I am not picking on the coating as much as the prep. If you do not prep and the product fails, the prep the second time is a LOT harder (IMHO)
Herb67SS
Well-known member
Not sure what the definition of "EPOXY" is or if the POR-15 products qualify as one. I am sure, as a hot rod and classic car restorer of MANY years, that every one of their products I've ever used has performed as well or better than they have promised.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
Yes, and it makes no sense at all that they would risk their reputation to put out a **** product. Every POR15 product I have had anything to do with has explicit instructions to ensure it performs as expected. If they say "No need for acids; no need to flood your floor with water. Just use our easy degreaser on any heavy oil or grease stains, vacuum away any dust or dirt, and paint right over everything with Floor Armor." I believe them.
maxspeed96ct
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2012
- Messages
- 379
I can you you one thing, the por-15 anti rust paint is some tough shh!!
And does not come off you skin for weeks lol
I would bet their floor paint is quality aswell.
And does not come off you skin for weeks lol
I would bet their floor paint is quality aswell.
Mat Mobile
Well-known member
I think the "no need to flood your floor with water" is a jab at U-Coat it. But that's just a hunch.
I'm also curious about their floor coating but would prefer trying one that has been tried by many members of this site. I'm sure it's good but I've used U-Coat it and saw bad results (probably my lack of education of prep at that time).
As for POR-15, I've only had good results except for their caliper kit that I used on rear drums. It burned off with the heat.
I'm also curious about their floor coating but would prefer trying one that has been tried by many members of this site. I'm sure it's good but I've used U-Coat it and saw bad results (probably my lack of education of prep at that time).
As for POR-15, I've only had good results except for their caliper kit that I used on rear drums. It burned off with the heat.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
Cougar
Well-known member
So I will differ with most here. I did a frame with POR15 and it ended up spending some time in sun light well after it was dried and cured. It chalked badly and faded I had to sand and redo it. Makes me wonder what would happen to their floor?
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
Seiously.
They are 2 different products for 2 different purposes.
Think about it...
Why would they just use the same formula for 2 different applications?
I have my jeep bumpers painted with por15, going on 8 years. Spends time outside in all weather. I even painted it on in +30c direct sunlight. It hasn't faded much of anything, not for 8 years exposure.
I still wish someone would chime in with some actual use of this floor product.
Although I am tempted to just buy it and test it out.
MotorCity57
Member
There was an extensive thread 5 years ago discussing the POR epoxy product.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9388
I was one of those who bought into their "minimal prep" sales pitch. I have since learned that, as you already know, there is no substitute for good floor prep. The POR-15 floor epoxy (yes, it is an epoxy with resin and hardener) looks good except where the cars' tires have lifted the epoxy off the floor. I now have bare concrete spots in those locations.
I'm actually a bit surprised to see the product back on the market, as they had stopped selling it after the initial introduction. I can only hope that during the past 5 years they have improved the formula. I do like their anti-rust products, which is why I was attracted to the floor epoxy in the first place.
Just be careful - it will probably do a fine job IF the floor is properly prepped.
John
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9388
I was one of those who bought into their "minimal prep" sales pitch. I have since learned that, as you already know, there is no substitute for good floor prep. The POR-15 floor epoxy (yes, it is an epoxy with resin and hardener) looks good except where the cars' tires have lifted the epoxy off the floor. I now have bare concrete spots in those locations.
I'm actually a bit surprised to see the product back on the market, as they had stopped selling it after the initial introduction. I can only hope that during the past 5 years they have improved the formula. I do like their anti-rust products, which is why I was attracted to the floor epoxy in the first place.
Just be careful - it will probably do a fine job IF the floor is properly prepped.
John
Mat Mobile
Well-known member
But that wouldn't be the fault of the product would it ..
I would say yes. I can see your point that they aren't calipers, but calipers and drums have about the same conditions...
But I haven't lost hope in POR-15. I just won't try that particular application again. (BTW, it was done on new drums with all the necessary prep work. The only thing I see that might have gone wrong is that it was "new" metal. POR-15 tends to work better on rusted parts.)
Talking yesterday with a buddy about my jeep bumpers he recalls a clear coat of some kind and not just por15. Guess more beer was consumed then I remember that day.
Anyways...
The issue is the cast iron the drums are made of and not really the heat I think. My jeeps front calipers are still nice and black, but the drums look like they were never painted. As I understand the calipers should get hotter too.
Anyways...
I would say yes. I can see your point that they aren't calipers, but calipers and drums have about the same conditions...
But I haven't lost hope in POR-15. I just won't try that particular application again. (BTW, it was done on new drums with all the necessary prep work. The only thing I see that might have gone wrong is that it was "new" metal. POR-15 tends to work better on rusted parts.)
The issue is the cast iron the drums are made of and not really the heat I think. My jeeps front calipers are still nice and black, but the drums look like they were never painted. As I understand the calipers should get hotter too.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
There is adequate proof around that hot tires will lift any epoxy floor coating.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Adequate proof that hot tires will lift a poorly prepared or weak surface.
We install 3-4 garage floors per week here with no lifting.
Our customers are driving corvettes, audis, etc... All with hot sticky performance tires.
We install 3-4 garage floors per week here with no lifting.
Our customers are driving corvettes, audis, etc... All with hot sticky performance tires.
It might have been an epoxy 5 years ago, but it is no longer that. It is a urethane I believe.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Gang, epoxy first, urethane only as a topcoat.
detroadster
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 6
I have the POR-15 floor armor in my workshop and can share my experience with it.
It was super easy to put down and skipping all that prep work was awesome. Problem is, it's a somewhat delicate coating that does not seem to have adhered all that well. Hmmm, perhaps there's something to what the flooring vendors on this forum have been saying all along about prep work...
I followed the install instructions to a T. Floor has been down since 1965. No moisture problems, ever. No stains, oil, grease, or paint. 65 degrees and low humidity at the time of application. All the pieces were in place for a great adhesion. The floor stands up well to the normal wear experienced in a woodshop. Tools on hard plastic casters being rolled around, lots of wood pieces being dropped, as well as the occasional dropped hand tool. I have noticed that with some larger impacts like a dropped framing hammer, the coating peeled up. It also shows scuff marks pretty readily. It's like the coating is just a bit too soft. All in all, I'm 6 out of 10 happy with it. Do I regret using it? No. Would I use it again? No. I certainly would not use it in my garage where the floor takes a much tougher beating. One trip across it with my floor jack's metal wheels or sliding a jackstand across it and I'm 100% sure it would just peel right up.
My 2 cents, hope it's helpful.
It was super easy to put down and skipping all that prep work was awesome. Problem is, it's a somewhat delicate coating that does not seem to have adhered all that well. Hmmm, perhaps there's something to what the flooring vendors on this forum have been saying all along about prep work...
I followed the install instructions to a T. Floor has been down since 1965. No moisture problems, ever. No stains, oil, grease, or paint. 65 degrees and low humidity at the time of application. All the pieces were in place for a great adhesion. The floor stands up well to the normal wear experienced in a woodshop. Tools on hard plastic casters being rolled around, lots of wood pieces being dropped, as well as the occasional dropped hand tool. I have noticed that with some larger impacts like a dropped framing hammer, the coating peeled up. It also shows scuff marks pretty readily. It's like the coating is just a bit too soft. All in all, I'm 6 out of 10 happy with it. Do I regret using it? No. Would I use it again? No. I certainly would not use it in my garage where the floor takes a much tougher beating. One trip across it with my floor jack's metal wheels or sliding a jackstand across it and I'm 100% sure it would just peel right up.
My 2 cents, hope it's helpful.
How old is your application? Is it the "original" or this "new" formula?
X2....also did you use the deluxe kit with the clear top coat?
detroadster
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2011
- Messages
- 6
Not sure if it was the old or the new formula. I bought it in July of 2011. No clear top coat. Just 2 coats of the colored epoxy.
Seiously.
They are 2 different products for 2 different purposes.
Think about it...
Why would they just use the same formula for 2 different applications?
I did think about it and I'm smart enough to know their two different products.
I didn't say they weren't. But POR15 isn't supposed to do what it did either. So I would have a concern about what the company states performance of any of it's products. Just me, I'm funny that way. I think products should do what they say they do.
willymakeit
Well-known member
My son kicked a can[qt] of Por 15 over in the garage. Its still there 4 years later.
willymakeit
Well-known member
I think I would stick with epoxy. Ive completed several kitchens [schools and dentention]. I dont think there is anything worse than food acids and cleaning agents.
So far these floors are holding up well. One serves about 3200 meals a day, with baking,fry areas and wash facilities. There is prep work involved,which is normal for any product. I get very suspicious when anyone says no prep involved.
So far these floors are holding up well. One serves about 3200 meals a day, with baking,fry areas and wash facilities. There is prep work involved,which is normal for any product. I get very suspicious when anyone says no prep involved.
POR-15 is not epoxy. It's a moisture cure aromatic (not UV stable) polyurethane.
POR-15 Floor Armor is also a moisture cure polyurethane. While they do not say whether it's aromatic or aliphatic (UV stable), they do say it's UV resistant.
POR-15 Floor Armor is also a moisture cure polyurethane. While they do not say whether it's aromatic or aliphatic (UV stable), they do say it's UV resistant.