POR 15 floor epoxy

[Skinny_Blinky]

Chris,

I am not an attorney.

However, I have read enough cases through the years to recognize a "spin" when I see it.

I recommend that you take a step back and read what the USERS here have posted related to A) the Por-15 product marketing literature and B) your latest response.

I believe you will find that A) the users were lead to believe that the Por-15 product would fit their needs in a professional manner and B) that they could apply it with MINIMAL (key here) effort on their part.

There is more than enough information on these forums to readily show a reader how to properly apply ANY type of epoxy flooring (in my opinion). If they followed those directions (as most would because they are based on REAL World experience), they should have a fairly comfortable safety net of success.

Therefore, it is my belief that the Por-15 product has issues that are being too easily dismissed by the manufacturer and not enough weight is being given to the REAL world experiences that have been documented herein.

If I were a manufacturer of a product that was getting totally blasted, I would be taking ever step I could to make it right with the customer. Once blood is in the water, the sharks only get more aggressive.

Yes Sir, agreed 100%. POR-as the drop shipper doesn't want the liability. It's almost as bad as multi-level marketing.

 

[BreBar21]

Ok so i had everyone from the main office in NEW JERSEY get in here and read the post and this is what they sent me.



Here are some things to consider when applying Floor Armor:



· Loss of adhesion: in the pics, there were a couple spots where there was an adhesion loss. Since the loss of adhesion occurred in specific spots that clearly indicates an area that either was not properly prepared or was wet. If there was a problem with the batch, then there would be zero adhesion anywhere on the surface plus there are thousands of gallons of that batch out there that would have failed too.



· Regarding surface preparation, the foundation of any coating system is the surface preparation. It is the most important factor in success. The purpose of surface preparation is to remove all contaminants that can interfere with adhesion and to promote a mechanical bond. Perhaps there is a sealer or grease stains not properly treated or dampness? Floor Armor is designed to penetrate into the concrete and when cured have a mechanical bond to the surface. Why is it bonding to some areas and not others? If it is bonding in certain spots, the paint did not decide where to adhere or not. The surface preparation determines that – and not the paint. I know sometimes a customer can get frustrated and when you get personally acquainted with them it is difficult to tell them that the paint does not choose where it adheres or not without sounding like a wise guy. But it’s true though. Keep this in the back of your mind…when a customer says that a product is failing just in a spot but is successful everywhere else (Floor Armor, POR-15, whatever) they are literally telling you the paint has a brain and has consciously made a decision where to adhere the same way you or I would make a conscious decision where to eat dinner.. Sounds silly right? But that is what they are saying but put another way. When paint fails, it fails universally throughout the batch. Keep in mind that flaking or peeling of any paint system is always adhesion loss.



· Moisture: Is the concrete slab on a moisture barrier? If a barrier is not used many times the concrete may appear dry on the surface but is damp and is moist down a bit below the surface thus causing issues with most paint systems. The best way to test for this is to duct tape a 4” x 4” piece of saran wrap to the floor in each corner. Let it sit for, ideally for 72, hours. If there is condensation or a damp odor. The surface is not suited for painting.



pH Levels: On the surface, the pH is highest shortly after the concrete is poured and decreases with time as the surface carbonates. The pH is also related to the moisture content of a slab—concrete with higher moisture levels tends to have a higher surface pH. Cured concrete can go from neutral (pH 7) to highly alkaline (pH 12 or 13). Compare this to using Marine Clean (and no Metal Ready) and then POR-15. You will have adhesion loss (if the surface is not thoroughly rinsed off) because the pH of Marine Clean is high. This is partly why we recommend the use of Metal Ready to bring the pH of the surface down for proper adhesion.



And relating to moisture and pH content is efflorescence which occurs during the initial cure of concrete. It occurs when water is being pushed out of the concrete (this happens very, very slowly) as a result of heat occurring as the poured concrete is curing which brings salts (with high pH levels) to the surface. Efflorescence often looks powdery (white) but is sometimes difficult to spot. This too impacts adhesion because it adversely effects the pH level.



Is the concrete new?. Minimum concrete cure is 30 days at 75° F, however certain conditions can affect the cure rate. The depth of the pour, presence of a moisture barrier, type of concrete, temperature and humidity can all change the cure schedule. If not cured properly, no paint will adhere properly. Concrete also does not cure uniformly, it tends to cure in spots. Again touching on the sealer, some concrete has what’s called a curing membrane which speeds up the cure so the concrete can be walked on during construction but also acts as a sealer. Same issues as a sealer can occur here too.

I could go on and on about this post, but I'll keep it really simple...

this response from corporate is laughable, insulting, and unacceptable.

 

[bobx]

how come when everyone was askin all the questions to poor chris, he never once mentioned anything about a moisture barrier, or the 'PH' (?) of the concrete?

sounds to me like poor chris is trying to get himself and his company out of a corner. he's trying to find a reason to explain how and why his product failed. he's chosen to blame the installers of the product. of course he has, for him to admit that he sold an inferior product would cost his company $$$ in lawsuits and future sales.

so, i guess all you guys that purchased floor armor, installed it wrong. the product is fine.

tell us somemore chris...

 

[Value]

Thanks again Valve and others for saving me this headache and insult of a response to the situation.

POR 15 is DENYING the truth about is floor armor. POR 15 Floor Armor is a FLAWED product that fails ONLY in one particular situation indicating a PRODUCT problem and not a customer one.

AS expected POR 15 is NOT standing behind its product and leaving the customer to deal with the consequences. I CHALLENGE corporate to apply this product PROPERLY over any concrete floor and park warm, wet tires on it repeatedy for several weeks. I GUARANTEE the product will FAIL as POR 15 has a DEFECT in this setting.

Regardless of what Chris tries to "spin" on this forum POR 15 should not be purchased in its current formulation. Corporate will continue to market and sell this DEFECTIVE product to conumers. POR 15 Depot should STOP selling this product without a disclaimer.

Value

 

[slonova]

wow, this is unbelievable. I've been silently following this thread, but after the "response" posted by Chris I just have to stick my nose in and say how horrible this whole situation is.

Thank God for the internet. Do "Google-bombs" still work? this thread needs to be the top search response for "POR 15"

In any case, I will recommend to any of my friends and family to steer waaaay clear of this product.

Good luck to all involved in this purchase in at least recouping money for the product.. sorry you lost personal time, which is invaluable. At least you will save some unsuspecting Garage'ers some headaches

 

[Value]

Like you, I wish there was just a fix. I like the floor and would like to keep it, but the warm, wet tire issue is a big deal for those of us in places like Florida.

My current plan is to tile over it. Since the only problem area is where the cars are, I plan to create a parking pad for the cars. I think it'll look good and will help to minimize additional cost.

What kind of tiles are you planning on using? I was going to tile 2/3 of my garage with Race Deck.

 

[BreBar21]

What kind of tiles are you planning on using? I was going to tile 2/3 of my garage with Race Deck.

I'm either going to go with Motofloor (Race Deck) or the Daytona Sport Court tiles. The Motofloor is on sale at Costco through the 30th, so I went and bought a bunch of it today while I wait for the samples from Sport Court to get here. I think tiling is the best alternative. I don't want to deal with trying to get all the POR-15 off and then start the epoxy process. Although, I guess I could just flood the floor with water and roll a hot tire around. lol.

 

[Fast Cop]

Well, long term durability, I am not even going to wait. Short term durability *****!!!! I was in my garage this morning moving some things around to get ready to do the other half of my garage and just sliding anything accross the floor causes scratch marks in the topcoat of the clearcoat. So I guess if you are just going to do your garage and never use it (walk on it , drive on it or work in it) you will be fine with this product. I wasted my time and money! From the start Chris at the POR-15 depot was very good to work with, but I guess that when the going gets tough he walks the company line. I wish he would be just as responsive now as he was when he was selling us on the product. When the samples he posted pictures of looked like **** I should have ran in the other direction. I should have gone with the u-coat-it like I had planned from the start. It would have involved more prep up front, but may have been worth it in the long run. If you look at my other thread the reason I went with POR-15 is that they pushed the fact that you did not need to do as much prep work as the other products (i.e. acid etching, pressure washing). Oh well live and learn. I wish Chris would man up and do some sort of refund, even half would show good faith. I know I can not get paid for my time but half on a flawed product is the least POR-15 should do.

 

[bobx]

for some reason i dont see poor chris stopping in to say hi anymore...

 

[Value]

POR 15 corporate's response to the Achilles' heel of Floor Armor paint is inadequate at best. Why does this product fail in one particular situation? If a poor prep was the culprit then why doesn't it fail when cool, wet tires are parked over it? Or, why doesn't it fail after months of exposure to rain and UV light? Why doesn't dry, hot tires cause failure if prep is the problem?

Instead, POR 15 fails in ONE and only ONE situation: warm, wet tires which are allowed to cool down on the product. Again, this smells like a PRODUCT failure and not one related to poor prep work or lack of moisture barrier.
I have water on my floor all the time for days with NO FAILURE.

POR 15 Corporate is being irresponsible in handling this problem and the seller, POR 15 Depot, should refrain from selling this product without a disclaimer.

 

[Value]

I'm either going to go with Motofloor (Race Deck) or the Daytona Sport Court tiles. The Motofloor is on sale at Costco through the 30th, so I went and bought a bunch of it today while I wait for the samples from Sport Court to get here. I think tiling is the best alternative. I don't want to deal with trying to get all the POR-15 off and then start the epoxy process. Although, I guess I could just flood the floor with water and roll a hot tire around. lol.

I will wait for pictures and comments on your Costco floor. I will need 900 square feet so I will wait for another sale in 2008. My plan is to tile the floor where the cars are parked and use a black edge. This should give a high end look to the garage and allow me to show some of that expensive POR 15 paint product. Since the POR 15 holds up well to everything except warm, wet tires I won't need to RACE DECK my entire garage floor.

 

[Value]

FLOOR FAILURE AGAIN

I parked my warm, wet tries on my garage floor (my bay) over night. This morning I had three areas of floor failure where the tires were parked. POR 15
has a flaw in its design.

The floor failure happened despite four coats of clear over the base paint.
In one spot the POR 15 failed leaving the old epoxy still on the garage floor.
This means the water penetrates the POR 15 and gets under the paint.
Somehow the warm rubber tires facilitate this penetration. The other two areas were CLEAN concrete with no old epoxy underneath and no oil/grease stains.

Despite the B.S. of POR 15 corporate blaming the user and/or the prep it is the product that is flawed. My next move is RACE DECK for 2/3 my garage.
Thus, I am out $1500 or more plus labor and renting a concrete sander.

By the way, my garage floor does have a moisture barrier as does the entire house.

Value

 

[SteveL]

That really *****!!!! Maybe POR15 will man up and get you a refund for the product at least. I almost doubt that Chris or Dave even look at this forum any more considering all of the problems the last few weeks.

Maybe a class action law suit is in order. Anyone here an atty.????

 

[POR-15 Chris]

Im still here in here every day at least ten times a day and i am still waiting on word from New Jersey as soon as i know something i will inform yall .......

 

[Value]

Im still here in here every day at least ten times a day and i am still waiting on word from New Jersey as soon as i know something i will inform yall .......

Chris,

POR 15 is a flawed product. You need to test the floor for yourself. Just park warm, wet tires on the floor and let the tires cool down overnight. Then, you will see POR 15 will PEEL OFF THE FLOOR. Corporate should do the same for "proof" that the Floor Armor product needs to be recalled and retooled.

 

[POR-15 Chris]

I have done the same with no negative results. The floor was not even preped it was painted over a previously painted surface and it held up fine. but do to yours and others complications I am still in contact with NJ to figure out a solution for yall waiting on their word...

 

[bmwpower]

I have done the same with no negative results. The floor was not even preped it was painted over a previously painted surface and it held up fine. but do to yours and others complications I am still in contact with NJ to figure out a solution for yall waiting on their word...

What's in NJ?

 

[Namocsid]

I've been following this thread with great interest, as I was considering going the epoxy route in my garage... I am sorry to Value and Fast Cop who had failures with the product.

Due to this thread I decided against epoxy and had my concrete polished with very nice results. I recommend you all consider that as an option and a 'fix' for your floor. Perhaps if POR15 steps up and refunds your money for the product, and pays to have your floor sanded and the remainder of their product removed it'd put a good dent in the price of a polished floor. Best of luck!

 

[MotorCity57]

What's in NJ?

I believe the company that manufactures POR-15 products is in NJ. Chris works for a company that sells POR-15.

 

[Value]

I have done the same with no negative results. The floor was not even preped it was painted over a previously painted surface and it held up fine. but do to yours and others complications I am still in contact with NJ to figure out a solution for yall waiting on their word...

Really? Yet, every person not associated with POR 15 has had a failure parking warm, wet tires on their POR 15 floor. In fact, I put 4 coats of clear over two coats of base and had a failure. IN one spot the original epoxy was still on the concrete floor but the POR 15 peeled off. In the others the POR 15 peeled off leaving nice, bare concrete underneath.

You can "claim" the greatness of POR 15 all you want on this board. The product is **** and doesn't hold up any better than Home Depot water based Epoxy that costs half as much.

The "solution" to our floor problem is to purchase another product for our garage floor so warm, wet tires won't be a problem.

 

[Hammerdown]

POR 15 has its corporate headquaters in NJ.

POR-15 Inc.
PO Box 1235
Morristown, NJ 07962
(800) 726-0459

I am curious, has everyone here who purchased this product had a failure? It seems there would be a small percentage of users who would encounter a problem and have a failure, but not everybody.

 

[Fast Cop]

The thing that ***** is that I like the look of my floor. It came out just as I wanted. All I am asking for is 1 gallon of lt gray, 1 gallon of clearcoat and 2 quarts of the part B activator so that over the next few years when I continue to have floor failure I can patch.

I do not want to have to put in a month of work removing the old to start over with prep work for another product. I already put a week of nights into the prep work for the first half of the garage.

Chris, please, lets be reasonable about this!!!!

 

[KnightFire]

Um, WOW. I've not had any failures (yet), but I have NOT parked warm tires while the floor was wet on it.

Now I'm EXTREMELY hesitant to do so! After all the money we all spent to obtain a 'superior' product...it should out perform epoxy in every way, seeing how it costs 2 to 3 times as much. I never had those issues when I used the HD epoxy on my old floor in MD.

I hope POR-15 steps up here and does the right thing by it's customers.

 

[MotorCity57]

I have also had no failures in my POR-15 floor, although it hasn't been properly tested yet with vehicle storage. As of right now, I'm very happy with the product since my floor looks GREAT. If it fails, I will be very UNhappy. In fairness to both POR-15 and to the consumers here, I will check in now and then to report my floor's status. I'd like to see other users continue to do the same.
I noticed both users who experienced problems live in Florida. Could there be some climate issues down there contributing to the failures?

 

[Value]

I have also had no failures in my POR-15 floor, although it hasn't been properly tested yet with vehicle storage. As of right now, I'm very happy with the product since my floor looks GREAT. If it fails, I will be very UNhappy. In fairness to both POR-15 and to the consumers here, I will check in now and then to report my floor's status. I'd like to see other users continue to do the same.
I noticed both users who experienced problems live in Florida. Could there be some climate issues down there contributing to the failures?

Look,

My POR 15 floor is very nice and holds up to just about anything EXCEPT those warm, wet tires. Thoe of you who are CONFIDENT in the product should test it during a heavy rain. All you need to do is drive your car on the highway for 15-20 minutes or another road where 50MPH plus is possible and then park those wet tires on your POR 15 floor overnight. Then, you will have your answer about the product.

Remember, my POR 15 floor has not failed in any other scenario, rain, UV light, normal use, etc. does not cause a problem. Only those WARM, wet tires cause failure, period.

Value

 

[bmwpower]

Look,

My POR 15 floor is very nice and holds up to just about anything EXCEPT those warm, wet tires. Thoe of you who are CONFIDENT in the product should test it during a heavy rain. All you need to do is drive your car on the highway for 15-20 minutes or another road where 50MPH plus is possible and then park those wet tires on your POR 15 floor overnight. Then, you will have your answer about the product.

Remember, my POR 15 floor has not failed in any other scenario, rain, UV light, normal use, etc. does not cause a problem. Only those WARM, wet tires cause failure, period.

Value

Have you tried WET tires on a dry day? IE, is it the fact that the slab is wet underneath the epoxy from the outside rain/capillary action OR is it the fact that water is seeping under the epoxy from the wet tires?

I just don't see how an impermeable product such as epoxy, no matter how crappy of a product it is, will allow water to get BELOW the surface from above.

Thoughts?

Not trying to derail things, just want to find out why this is happening....

 

[Value]

Have you tried WET tires on a dry day? IE, is it the fact that the slab is wet underneath the epoxy from the outside rain/capillary action OR is it the fact that water is seeping under the epoxy from the wet tires?

I just don't see how an impermeable product such as epoxy, no matter how crappy of a product it is, will allow water to get BELOW the surface from above.

Thoughts?

Not trying to derail things, just want to find out why this is happening....

I park my car for 30-45 minutes outside the garage in order to let my tires cool down. Then, I park the car in the garage. No problem with failure.
In addition, my ENTIRE home has plastic sheeting under the slab (I saw the pour). It seems wet, cool tires doesn't cause immediate floor failure. I am uncertain if over a LONG period of time if cool, wet tires will cause floor failure. Finally, EMPIRIC EVIDENCE occurs frequently in Science and because you CAN'T explain something doesn't mean it isn't true. Most likely, in this case the warm rubber tires allows water under high pressure to penetrate the floor armor as I noticed water underneath the paint.

Value

 

[Value]

If my tires are wet but cool and it is pouring outside I can park my car in the garage WITHOUT floor failure. My wife has been doing this for the past two months and her bay is FINE. Yesterday, I put the BLT mat in place so she can park her car directly in garage during a hard rain.

The product REACTS to heat, pressure and moisture which allows PERMEABILITY of moisture. Remember, this product is NOT EPOXY it is a Polyurea based substance which would reactly differently to heat, rubber and water under high pressure.

Value

 

[bmwpower]

If my tires are wet but cool and it is pouring outside I can park my car in the garage WITHOUT floor failure. My wife has been doing this for the past two months and her bay is FINE. Yesterday, I put the BLT mat in place so she can park her car directly in garage during a hard rain.

The product REACTS to heat, pressure and moisture which allows PERMEABILITY of moisture. Remember, this product is NOT EPOXY it is a Polyurea based substance which would reactly differently to heat, rubber and water under high pressure.

Value

It's NOT epoxy?? I thought it was. That changes things...a bit.

One could also argue that it's the heat that is causing the water UNDER the coating to expand and cause the coating to fail.

 

[delikid]

Wow... I just spent the last couple of hours reading all of this... I was pointed to this forum from autopia.org (a great forum on detailing cars!)

So, I have printed out in my hand a order list for the Rustoleum Expoxyshield. After reading all of your experiences, I think my lil $256 expenditure for Expoxyshield is looking more like it.

I'm so very sorry to hear of all the problems. Yes, I think the "YOU are the problem, NOT the product" routine sounds indicative of big business. I wish you all luck in pursuing reparations from corporate.

We close on our house in a couple of weeks, and unless something changes, looks like I'll be putting down Expoxyshield. Cuz, I live in N.C., and it's definitely hot and humid here, which equals hot, wet tires!

Cheers to All in our quest for good garage floors!

P.S., I saw Premier Garage this weekend at a home & garden show with my wife. It's a nice product that is put on THICK. For my 426 sq. ft. garage I was told it would be about $1000, with a lifetime guarantee. I'm gonna have the local guy come out and give me a real estimate. Yeah, it's a lot o' cash. But, from the samples I saw and took home, it's the comparison of D.I.Y. vs professional install. * I do not have any affiliation with this company. I'm just comparing spending $700 on a POR15 product and all the tools to time to do it, versus paying someone else to install a product and be done with it and have a guarantee.

 

[Value]

It's NOT epoxy?? I thought it was. That changes things...a bit.

One could also argue that it's the heat that is causing the water UNDER the coating to expand and cause the coating to fail.

NOT just heat plus tires. I have ZERO failures from DRY hot tire pick-up. It takes warm tires plus a lot of moisture under pressure for floor failure. Yes, the heat must cause the floor armor paint to expand and allow the water under pressure to get underneath the paint.

If I allow 1 hour for the tires to cool down (even if it is still pouring outside) and then park my car in the garage the POR 15 holds up!

That is why all I need is a parking pad because it takes more than BRIEF contact on the floor with warm, wet tires for floor failure. In fact, it takes several hours for the EXACT combo of warm, wet tires to cause failure. Once my wife parked her warm, wet tires in my bay and I moved the vehicle within 30 minutes and there was NO FAILURE.

Those of you who are looking for a strong product with ONE LIMITIATION then POR 15 may work for you. For me, I need RACE DECK over the POR 15 where my cars are parked so this means another $2500 on top of the $1500 I spent with POR 15 Depot.

 

[IanF]

I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest. I work near the POR-15 main office in NJ and have been there a couple of times to pick up stuff (faster & cheaper that shipping).

Still undecided about how to proceed... The acid-etching prep required for epoxy is still a problem for us... and Race Deck is out of the question due to both cost and function (I fear what my scissor-lift would do to those tiles).

I'm not expecting the floor to stay perfect for long... I simply do too much floor-abusive work in the garage... My main desire for a floor covering is for dust reduction, easier cleaning and light reflection.

So despite the reservations, I still think the POR-15 coating is our best bet... I'm not opposed to putting some carpet scrapes under the tires.

 

[woohoo]

I've heard of people actually just waxing the cement. Maybe that is a better option for you?

 

[SteveL]

I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest. I work near the POR-15 main office in NJ and have been there a couple of times to pick up stuff (faster & cheaper that shipping).

Still undecided about how to proceed... The acid-etching prep required for epoxy is still a problem for us... and Race Deck is out of the question due to both cost and function (I fear what my scissor-lift would do to those tiles).

I'm not expecting the floor to stay perfect for long... I simply do too much floor-abusive work in the garage... My main desire for a floor covering is for dust reduction, easier cleaning and light reflection.

So despite the reservations, I still think the POR-15 coating is our best bet... I'm not opposed to putting some carpet scrapes under the tires.

If you are looking for a utilitarian floor finish, I've had Benjamin Moore two part epoxy on my floor for 10 years and it has held up well. Lost most of it's gloss over time, but still impresses the neighbors. And it will be A LOT cheaper than the coatings pushed here in the forum.

 

[IanF]

I've heard of people actually just waxing the cement. Maybe that is a better option for you?

I've thought about that, but I really want a uniform color.... at least for a little while...

If you are looking for a utilitarian floor finish, I've had Benjamin Moore two part epoxy on my floor for 10 years and it has held up well. Lost most of it's gloss over time, but still impresses the neighbors. And it will be A LOT cheaper than the coatings pushed here in the forum.

What was the prep like? The biggest concern for me regarding any of the epoxy paints is the acid etching requirement.

Additionally, our garage floor fails the moisture test (plastic taped to check for permeation). The slab was poured 30 years ago... and while it's still in pretty good condition, no thought was given towards a moisture barrier at the time.

 

[Value]

If you are looking for a utilitarian floor finish, I've had Benjamin Moore two part epoxy on my floor for 10 years and it has held up well. Lost most of it's gloss over time, but still impresses the neighbors. And it will be A LOT cheaper than the coatings pushed here in the forum.

Any peeling? What about wet, car tires? Any touch-ups over the years?

 

[SteveL]

Any peeling? What about wet, car tires? Any touch-ups over the years?

I had one small spot lift under a rear tire the second week after applying. I atribute that to it being in a low spot and probably not prep'd or dryed well enough. Nothing ever since and I've parked hot wet tires on it a thousand times over the ten years. My wife would never think of parking outside in the rain to let the tires cool.

My floor was acid etched and rinsed prior to coating. Not sure what the concern with acid etching is as it's a fairly simple and safe process. Biggest issue is neutralizing the acid before rinsing with baking soda. That way it will not kill the grass that the run off gets to. There are lots of posts here on the etching process and how much to dilute the muratic acid. I don't think I would use ANY floor coating with out etching first. Based on what I've seen and heard, it would likely be a waste of time and money. My Dad always said, "If you're not gonna do it right, don't so it at all."

If your floor does not pass the moisture test, you will likely have issues no matter what you use.

 

[IanF]

The actual acid etching isn't the problem for me as much as the added prep time... Right now, the garage is filled with 3 cars... tools... benches hard-connected to the wall... and so on... plus, we're planning to finish rocking the walls and ceiling at the same time... I'm figuring to rent some type of POD to store everything in while all of this is happening... but the whole project basically needs to happen over a long weekend (excluding load-out & load-in).

Re: moisture... well... in that case, I'll probably go with POR-15's std kit, forgoing the clear-coat and extras... My main desire is dust control and light reflection from a fairly uniform colored surface... and as long as say... 90% of the floor stays "painted" I'll be happy.... some lifting I can live with.

In a perfect world, I agree with your father and would acid-etch the floor, seal it to create a moisture barrier and then paint with 2-part epoxy... but unfortunately we can't afford to live in a perfect world...

 

[BreBar21]

We had light rain most of the day here in FL. My brother came back from class at about 9:00pm and pulled his car into the garage. It didn't even occur to me until now that his tires would have been warm and wet. I just went out there and dropped the parking brake and pushed the car forward. Almost immediately I could hear the floor peeling, so I took a pic. What's that idiom about pudding and proof???

 

[Value]

We had light rain most of the day here in FL. My brother came back from class at about 9:00pm and pulled his car into the garage. It didn't even occur to me until now that his tires would have been warm and wet. I just went out there and dropped the parking brake and pushed the car forward. Almost immediately I could hear the floor peeling, so I took a pic. What's that idiom about pudding and proof???

That is what I have been telling you. Despite 4 coats of clear and 2 coats of base paint the warm, wet tire ADHERES to the POR 15 product and ENHANCES moisture penetration underneath the paint. The result is FLOOR FAILURE as posted above. This happens NO MATTER what the PREP or number of coats. A product defect.