You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
POR 15 opinions
- Thread starter Mitchw123456
- Start date
zak77
Well-known member
I used it on the bottom on a rusty Big Tex trailer and i was impressed with the results. I removed most of the rust manually as per instructions then painted with 2 coats i believe. A couple years later i checked and the rust was coming through in a lot of areas. It was not top-coated but it's also the under carriage of a trailer so figured that'd be good enough. I havent used it since.
I use Chassis Saver, but it's not all that cheap. I've had good luck with it, it gets really hard but doesn't have any UV protection. I don't think the others do either though. When you open a can of this kind of paint and get ready to close it blow some sort of inert gas into the can to displace the oxogen (propane, mig gas) and put saran wrap or a plastic baggie between the can and lid so you can get it open the next time you want to use it.
OP
Mitchw123456
Well-known member
Thanks for all the info guys I think I will end up giving it a shot. I'm still aways away from being ready to. Just trying to stack up parts and needed accessories.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
4xdog
Well-known member
I use Chassis Saver, but it's not all that cheap. I've had good luck with it, it gets really hard but doesn't have any UV protection. I don't think the others do either though. When you open a can of this kind of paint and get ready to close it blow some sort of inert gas into the can to displace the oxogen (propane, mig gas) and put saran wrap or a plastic baggie between the can and lid so you can get it open the next time you want to use it.
POR-15 is isocyanate (urethane) based, and cures with exposure to moisture (a "polyol", or material with -OH groups). It's not oxygen that does it.
But it's a fine idea to displace "wet" air with a dry gas of any type, as it will at least slow down some of the unavoidable curing that happens when a can is opened.
like2wheel
Well-known member
Napa (Martin Senior) recently came out with a version that has built in UV protection so it does not need to be top coated.
mrborohachi
Well-known member
I looked up SEM Rust Shield and found a post on a Z-car forum
"Posted April 1, 2008
This is a far better option than POR-15/Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I used RE on my rear undercarriage. It worked good, but in some spots it flaked off. This required scuffing and another application. When it dries, it's a flat finish. That means it's going to get dirty and stay dirty especially on the underside of the car. I wound up going over with rustoleum.
On another Z I'm working on, we used the SEM paint. I liked how it performed so I bought a gallon for myself. Aside from the STRONG solvent smell, it's better in every way. It's half as much as RE and less than half the cost of POR. Application is very smooth, it spreads easily and dries perfectly to a nice flat surface. The finish is glossy so it won't hold dirt/grease. Where's I'd go over POR/RE with some Rustoleum, this can be used as is.
I just painted my hatch area with this a few hours ago and it turned out great. I plan on using this over the entire interior, underside, wheel wells, and inner fenders. After doing the hatch area, the level in the can is only down ~.5in, so a little goes a long way.
This is a specialty product and would most likely have to be ordered through Car Quest/NAPA. I have a wholesale account at an auto body supply warehouse which is where I bought mine. Retail for this product should run ~$75/gal, which is still much cheaper than the other options. When you figure in S&H you save even more. It's also available in quarts for smaller jobs.
I hope this doesn't sound like a commercial, but this works that good and it's so cheap!"
"Posted April 1, 2008
This is a far better option than POR-15/Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I used RE on my rear undercarriage. It worked good, but in some spots it flaked off. This required scuffing and another application. When it dries, it's a flat finish. That means it's going to get dirty and stay dirty especially on the underside of the car. I wound up going over with rustoleum.
On another Z I'm working on, we used the SEM paint. I liked how it performed so I bought a gallon for myself. Aside from the STRONG solvent smell, it's better in every way. It's half as much as RE and less than half the cost of POR. Application is very smooth, it spreads easily and dries perfectly to a nice flat surface. The finish is glossy so it won't hold dirt/grease. Where's I'd go over POR/RE with some Rustoleum, this can be used as is.
I just painted my hatch area with this a few hours ago and it turned out great. I plan on using this over the entire interior, underside, wheel wells, and inner fenders. After doing the hatch area, the level in the can is only down ~.5in, so a little goes a long way.
This is a specialty product and would most likely have to be ordered through Car Quest/NAPA. I have a wholesale account at an auto body supply warehouse which is where I bought mine. Retail for this product should run ~$75/gal, which is still much cheaper than the other options. When you figure in S&H you save even more. It's also available in quarts for smaller jobs.
I hope this doesn't sound like a commercial, but this works that good and it's so cheap!"