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Por 15

superx894

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Oct 24, 2005
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Wyoming
I was on a web site buying POR 15 engine paint and noticed that they recommend regular POR 15 for garage floors! I have used it quite a bit on car frames and other stuff and have been very happy with it.

Any experience using it on garage floors? It's kind of expensive but I don't think it would ever lift like epoxy.
 
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Roadster

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superx894 said:
I was on a web site buying POR 15 engine paint and noticed that they recommend regular POR 15 for garage floors! I have used it quite a bit on car frames and other stuff and have been very happy with it.

Any experience using it on garage floors? It's kind of expensive but I don't think it would ever lift like epoxy.

Man, that is some nasty stuff. Don't ever get it on your skin! :scared:

I can't imaging using that for a floor coating, but I guess I'm just not thinking outside of the box. :lol_hitti
 

G M

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My experience with por 15 on metal is that it kind stains the metal rather then just sitting on top. I would expect the same results on concrete. It might cost quite a bit to do a whole floor with it but then again a little por15 goes a long way.
 

cork

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Central PA
Dont they reccomend the hardnose paint for floors ? POR 15 only comes in black and silver but the hardnose is available in many colors.
 

Roadster

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G M said:
My experience with por 15 on metal is that it kind stains the metal rather then just sitting on top. I would expect the same results on concrete. It might cost quite a bit to do a whole floor with it but then again a little por15 goes a long way.

POR-15 is a rust-preventative paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces, where it chemically bonds to the rusted metal. It dries to a rockhard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from reoccurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be top coated before prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Do a Google search for "POR-15" and you will continually run across the phrase "paint over rust", which I understand is the origin of the acronym "POR". Therefore, it's application as a garage floor coating seems a bit misplaced.
 

G M

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Well when ever I use Por-15 I always sandblast the rust off. I guess I am doing it wrong :rolleyes2

I did a truck frame with Por-15, half of it I sandblasted, half of it I left rusty. Guess which half is failing.

Sure you can put it on rust but it doesnt mean you have to.
 

Roadster

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G M said:
Well when ever I use Por-15 I always sandblast the rust off. I guess I am doing it wrong :rolleyes2

I did a truck frame with Por-15, half of it I sandblasted, half of it I left rusty. Guess which half is failing.

POR-15 Technical Information
POR-15 Usage Tips

G M said:
Sure you can put it on rust but it doesnt mean you have to.

In other words, sure, you can put it on a garage floor, but that doesn't mean that you should. ;)
 

G M

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Using POR-15 on Concrete


Concrete is a versatile construction material, but one with several disadvantages.

* It is an alkaline substance and as such not only highly susceptible to chemical attack, but also chemically threatening to alkali-sensitive materials, like alkyd based paints.
* The porosity of concrete allows potentially damaging agents to penetrate more readily, increasing the likelihood and seriousness of damage.
* Concrete has relatively poor abrasion resistance and cohesive strength, allowing physical deterioration and leading to difficulty in daily cleaning and, ultimately, to failure.

Of course, concrete can be protected. Its inadequacies can be reduced, and years can be added to its service life by coating with a material capable of withstanding the stresses put on it. Many coatings types are available for use on concrete. None, however, is as versatile as POR-15.

Diversity of POR-15 for Concrete
It might seem to some that the many different expectations of end users for concrete coating performance would make it very difficult to find one coating technology capable of meeting their wide ranging needs. But P0R-15 is versatile. It is used as primers and sealers, patching materials and topcoats. POR-15 is used as a moisture barrier and heavy-duty wear surface. POR-15 is available as a single component moisture-cured (or air dried), or two-component reactive formulation. It can be brushed, rolled, sprayed, squeegeed, or troweled.

POR-15 is an outstanding moisture-curing single component formulation highly recommended to prime and seal porous substrates. POR-15 is a very effective dust-binding impregnant as well as sealer for cement and other substrates, because it can protect the substrate from water, chemicals, deicing salt, and mineral oils. Because of its high degree of flexibility, POR-15 also can serve as a bridge over cracks. As a corrosion-resistant primer, POR-15 is formulated to contain aluminum pigments that provide barrier protection.

POR-15 is tack-free after 3-5 hours and through-hard in 72 hours, after which a film with a thickness of 40 um has a pendulum impact hardness of about 170 seconds. The abrasion loss (Taber Abrader CS 10, 1000 rpm, 1000 g) is about 5 mg. A fully cured POR-15 film is characterized by remarkable hardness and flexibility, and by good resistance to water and chemicals, though it yellows under light POR-15 is a good binder for synthetic resin-based concrete. A mixture consisting, for example, of quartz sand and POR-15 cures from the surface by contact with atmospheric humidity. Pronounced yellowing and chalking must be expected in outdoor applications; therefore, it is recommended that the coating be topcoated with POR-15 2-component coatings (HardNose Paints in 8 colors) within 24 hours of the POR-15 coatings drying to the touch.

Comparison of POR-15 with Epoxy coatings
While many epoxies will equal the hardness of POR-15, serious differences exist. Epoxies have a far greater tendency to chalk than does POR-15, and as they age, epoxies become brittle and often crack. POR-15, strengthened by moisture, remains flexible permanently! Epoxies, once mixed, cure rapidly, and two-component mixing often tends to be wasteful with a huge waste factor because pot life is limited and cure can take place before the material is used up. Because of its' tighter molecular structure, POR-15 is a far superior moisture barrier than any presently existing epoxy system.

Application Procedures / Suface Preparation
Suface to be coated should be clean, dry, and dust free. Newly laid concrete should be swept and vacuumed thoroughly. Grease or oil spots should be scrubbed with POR-15 Solvent, then rinsed with water. Older concrete should be treated with a muratic acid solution (HCL) of about 10% to remove calcium salts and to etch the concrete. After the contaminated areas are treated and cleaned, the entire concrete surface should be washed thoroughly with water and then allowed to completely dry. The use of portable heating equipment may be required. If oil and grease spots are fresh and pronounced, dry the area first and then treat them with a coat of white shellac before applying POR-15. POR-15 CAN ONLY BE APPLIED TO A CONCRETE SURFACE THAT IS BONE-DRY TO A DEPTH OF TWO (2) INCHES. If there are painted areas, the paint should be stripped off and the stripped area should be treated with muratic acid. If large areas of concrete are painted and it is not practical to remove the paint, a small test area should be coated with POR-15 to determine the adhesion quality, which in most cases should be acceptable. If you are uncertain of how to proceed in a special area, call The PRP-PORShop at 877 684-7878.

Application Procedures / Applying POR-15
If you are applying POR-15 to a concrete surface in an enclosed area, you MUST use an air-supplied respirator at all times when spraying POR-15. If the application is by roller or brush in a well ventilated area, an organic vapor particle respirator, NIOSH/MSHA approved should be used. Under no circumstances will a paper dust mask alone provide adequate protection when applying POR-15.

Surface to be coated must be bone-dry. Apply in full, covering coats so that the concrete is saturated with POR-15. The paint will seep into cracks and crevices and fill voids to provide maximum, permanent protection. Coverage will depend upon the surface tightness and quality of the concrete, but a general rule of thumb is about 200 square feet per gallon. A properly coated surface will not require a second coat. Read directions on can carefully for application details. If any moisture or water is mixed with POR-15 before application - perspiration dripping into the can, accidental spillage, etc.. POR-15 will begin to cure and may not adhere properly to the concrete surface. Be careful to avoid liquid contamination of any kind.
 

Roadster

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G M said:
Exactly, and who knows, it might even work.

[snip]

Using POR-15 on Concrete...

:spit:

OK, why don't you use it for your floor covering in your new garage and report back? ;)
 
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Dave Carney

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Derby, KS
Big_John said:
This is interesting as I just found this stuff and they say its like POR-15, only better. They say it works great for concrete floors. Only one color, but it looks like there isn't a lot of prep involved.

http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm

Anybody heard of this?


I've used it. I liked it alot. I built the mother of all mailboxes and painted it with rustbullet, works great, doesn't fade, doesn't need another coat of something else on top because it sits outside. I used the metal prep and cleaner that por sells first, under the rust bullet. Its been a year, still looks great. Pics attached.
 

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Big_John

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That's a serious mailbox! :bowdown:

I've used the POR-15 on a few things. I even used it on the side of a Jeep once that was badly rusted and top coated it with primer and paint. Its impressive stuff.

The Rust Bullet stuff sounds interesting. I may use it on the garage floor after I do a little more research.
 

Dave Carney

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cork said:
Dave, is that a case tractor in the background ?

Yes, it's an Ingersoll 4120 with a 60" deck. Bought it 10 years ago. Good machine but I really need a zero turn so I think I'll probably sell it in a couple years.
 

Dave Carney

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Derby, KS
Big_John said:
That's a serious mailbox! :bowdown:

.


Yeah, the exterior is 1/8" steel plate, on the inside is a full roll-cage frame made of 1/8 wall 1" square , it has a shelf for outgoing mail and an integral slide so the incoming mail falls down into the lock box area at the bottom and cannot be removed without the key. The entry door on the front is aluminum to meet the postal codes with regard to maximum pull force to open. (you wouldn't believe how many regs there are for mailbox construction) The unit weighs in at 170 pounds and got the blessing of the Postmaster here before I put it up. I don't have any problems with vandals any more :bounce:
 

thegarageguy

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NJ
If you do a search on this forum for POR 15, you can see some reviews. If my memory serves me correct, there was a rep on here pushing it years ago and ended up having problems. Just research it before committing.
 

MG David

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Warwick UK
Thats 2 of us. I have spilt POR15 on the garage floor and it is still there, and I did not etch first. You might want to do a price check betwee POR15 and epoxy. Here in the UK POR15 is expensive.
 

monteperformance

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Long Island, NY
I don't know how POR 15 would be on concrete, but I have never had good results with it on it's intended surface-metal. When i've used it on rusty metal, it always ends up flaking off. When I've used it on clean rust-free metal, it never looks right. It's lumpy, shows brush strokes, and it turns cloudy after a very short time. That combined with it's high price and impossible clean-up makes me not a fan!
 

78Bird

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Charlotte, NC
Rust bullet is pretty much the same as POR, it's got UV resistance in it and it's a different color but the underlying tech is pretty much identical, moisture cured urethane.

Thats why it bonds like crazy to skin, it 'kicks' due to the skins moisture and is immovable. It's also why they tell you to avoid high humidity or letting even a drop of sweat get in the can, it could start a curing reaction and you have a nice expensive brick.

I don't see why it wouldnt make a good floor coating, but like epoxy I'd want to get all the dust, debris, and oil off first to promote good adhesion.

I'd use Rustbullet first for floors, more UV resistant, cheaper, and the light gray color would make the room brighter than POR black.
 
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