I have a question regarding the PEI rating on a tile i would like to use for an entry area for my house. The area is 8 x 25 and going on 3/4 subfloor over 2 x 4 pressure treated lumber on its side fastened with tapcons on 16" center on a cement basement floor. The problem is there will be a 400 lb harman coal stove with steel feet sitting on it. Would a porcelain tile floor with a PEI rating of 3 be ok? The feet are 1/4" steel and you rake it by hand so i am worried it could chip the floor.
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Porcelain tile PEI rating question
- Thread starter Brett K
- Start date
cderalow
Well-known member
PEI rating doesn't necessarily reflect the tiles ability to withstand point loading. It's more about a surface wearability and durability
you really want to know the breaking strength of the tile.
I will say this though, most porcelains will exceed the industry baseline value of 250lbs
most suppliers are pretty open. email their customer support and ask the specific weight rating/breaking strength of the tile and describe your situation.
and they'll normally help you out
you really want to know the breaking strength of the tile.
I will say this though, most porcelains will exceed the industry baseline value of 250lbs
most suppliers are pretty open. email their customer support and ask the specific weight rating/breaking strength of the tile and describe your situation.
and they'll normally help you out
The PEI rating is not the 'strength' of the tile.
It is the hardness/durability rating of the surface of the tile to scratching and abrasion and wear.
http://www.tilestoreonline.com/Articles.asp?ID=132
You design and build the entire floor 'structure' to be able to withstand the loads placed on it. Most of the time, it is not so much the overall 'strength' of the floor that is the design criteria (rarely does a floor 'fail' by breaking), but for a tile/ceramic/stone floor you have to make sure that the bending/flex is within the limits of the tile and mortar and grout (or use a membrane system that can partially accomodate some of the bending and flex of the floor underlayment without cracking the tile/mortar/grout).
Why are you putting "sleepers" (2x4 laid 'flat) on the concrete floor? Possible moisture?
It is the hardness/durability rating of the surface of the tile to scratching and abrasion and wear.
http://www.tilestoreonline.com/Articles.asp?ID=132
You design and build the entire floor 'structure' to be able to withstand the loads placed on it. Most of the time, it is not so much the overall 'strength' of the floor that is the design criteria (rarely does a floor 'fail' by breaking), but for a tile/ceramic/stone floor you have to make sure that the bending/flex is within the limits of the tile and mortar and grout (or use a membrane system that can partially accomodate some of the bending and flex of the floor underlayment without cracking the tile/mortar/grout).
Why are you putting "sleepers" (2x4 laid 'flat) on the concrete floor? Possible moisture?
Using 2 x 4 sleepers allows me to put in a layer of insulation. A layer of plastic is over the concrete, although i haven't seen any evidence of a moisture problem when pulling up the old subfloor.
The stove is currently setting on a brick hearth, which is being removed because it is an ugly trip hazzard. I do notice that even on the brick surface, the stove will creep a little over time after a season of raking it. I figure this might be more of an issue on smooth tile. I am also looking in to making some sort of slip resistant pads for under the stove feet.
The stove is currently setting on a brick hearth, which is being removed because it is an ugly trip hazzard. I do notice that even on the brick surface, the stove will creep a little over time after a season of raking it. I figure this might be more of an issue on smooth tile. I am also looking in to making some sort of slip resistant pads for under the stove feet.
Last edited:
big.jim
Well-known member
little rubber pads under feet should stop creep and prevent chipping, put them under feet then trim round with utility knife
Mark118
Well-known member
One possibility that comes to mind would be to eliminate the 16" gap between the 2x4s in the area where the stove will sit & put that area in solid, or nearly so. The small increase in cost would probably be worth the peace of mind & that section would still be relatively well insulated. Best of luck with your project!