Porcelain tile size for 40x40 shop

[WarDamnEagle]

Apologies everyone for starting yet another thread on porcelain tile. I have read a couple dozen or more threads and have seen quite a few posts regarding tile size but nothing that quite addresses my question. Like many questions, the answer to this one is very subjective but I'm looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts.

The last two houses we owned had some type of polyaspartic flake system and I really thought that was the only way to go for a garage floor. I might still go that way in the attached garage but I'm really leaning towards porcelain tile for the detached shop. It's 40' square with 16' walls. I haven't put a masons level on the floors yet but they appear to be very well done and level. They are very smooth so maybe what you would call a hard machined finish. The floor is bisected in both directions with a saw cut control joint and there are no visible cracks anywhere in the slab. Building was erected around 2007. It's heated and cooled so likely has been subjected to very minimal thermal expansion.

So with that long preamble, I'm asking myself what size tile to consider? I'm thinking the larger the better but also think there's more risk of issues going really large so I'm thinking the largest size I should be looking at is 12" x 24". I want an "industrial" look so I will be looking for a matt finish in some combination of light and dark gray (dark down the center aisle and around the walls with light everywhere else).

I'm also thinking about using tile on the walls for the 4'+/-. I actually considered using CMU (concrete block) for the first 4' but it's so much easier to frame up to the first girt (7') and use 4' of backer board followed by sheetrock.

This Forum is a great resource and I have already learned so much just reading everyone's else's threads on this subject. @Dakota00 and @Jack Olsen; your threads were very inspirational.

I haven't seen too many shops done in a 12x24 and maybe with good reason. Anyway, great to hear everyone's thought. Thanks.

 

[cvairwerks]

A lot depends on what you plan to use the shop for. I’ve never seen tile used in a industrial shop, other than locations where there was no heavy equipment or machinery, only benches and light weight rolling cabinets and racks.

To me, the risk ( read as probability ) of damaged tilework due to dropped tools, parts, ect., or moving heavy stuff, is too great. If you have anything with casters, particularly steel ones, that are less than 8” in diameter, it will make rolling harder when you get to the tile joints, unless they are square faced and have minimal grout lines.

Note: I work in an environment where lots of our equipment gets moved by tugs, forklfts and trucks, so I tend to look at things from the heavy duty end of things.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

A lot depends on what you plan to use the shop for. I’ve never seen tile used in a industrial shop, other than locations where there was no heavy equipment or machinery, only benches and light weight rolling cabinets and racks.

To me, the risk ( read as probability ) of damaged tilework due to dropped tools, parts, ect., or moving heavy stuff, is too great. If you have anything with casters, particularly steel ones, that are less than 8” in diameter, it will make rolling harder when you get to the tile joints, unless they are square faced and have minimal grout lines.

Note: I work in an environment where lots of our equipment gets moved by tugs, forklfts and trucks, so I tend to look at things from the heavy duty end of things.

Thanks for that input. Porcelain is a bit tougher than you give it credit for and it's not uncommon at all in European shops. There are many threads on Garage Journal discussing this subject and considerable agreement and real world evidence that it's a more than acceptable material. Having said that, it clearly has to be installed correctly - e.g. no voids in the mortar.

I will install a lift and I will roll things around. Porcelain tile typically has straight edges and a very small grout line. I don't think I've read anything in here yet where someone has complained that they can't readily roll things around on it.

 

[mike93lx]

A lot depends on what you plan to use the shop for. I’ve never seen tile used in a industrial shop, other than locations where there was no heavy equipment or machinery, only benches and light weight rolling cabinets and racks.

To me, the risk ( read as probability ) of damaged tilework due to dropped tools, parts, ect., or moving heavy stuff, is too great. If you have anything with casters, particularly steel ones, that are less than 8” in diameter, it will make rolling harder when you get to the tile joints, unless they are square faced and have minimal grout lines.

Note: I work in an environment where lots of our equipment gets moved by tugs, forklfts and trucks, so I tend to look at things from the heavy duty end of things.

the tile is stonger than the concrete below it. cracking is an issue from a poor installation

 

[mike93lx]

I think I would stick with 12x12. large format tiles are not flat at all and require much more care when installing, increasing the risk of lippage or cracking at some point.

look for something with a PEI 5 rating. it will be very strong and slip resistant, even when wet.

 

[Dakota00]

Will you be doing the install yourself? If so, any previous tiling experience?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Will you be doing the install yourself? If so, any previous tiling experience?

I think I see where this is going.....

Yes I have done some tiling in the past but nothing larger than 6x6 that I can recall. I did grow up working with my hands though with lots of framing, concrete, trim carpentry, etc. experience...in other words, I'm fairly handy. I also have a brother in law that fancies himself as a semi-pro in tiling which means he's maybe done a few more projects than I have.

So I guess you could say we're just above the neophyte level.

I suppose your recommendation given the above would be to stay with 12x12 max? Or pay a professional after ensuring they actually know what they are doing?

I am an engineer and am very OCD when it comes to projects that I'm interested in. If I laid a few tiles and concluded that my quality wasn't up to par I would definitely quit and hire someone. Thankfully there would be no time pressure as this is my shop and not the attached garage.

Appreciate any and all input. Thanks.

 

[Dakota00]

I think I see where this is going.....

Yes I have done some tiling in the past but nothing larger than 6x6 that I can recall. I did grow up working with my hands though with lots of framing, concrete, trim carpentry, etc. experience...in other words, I'm fairly handy. I also have a brother in law that fancies himself as a semi-pro in tiling which means he's maybe done a few more projects than I have.

So I guess you could say we're just above the neophyte level.

I suppose your recommendation given the above would be to stay with 12x12 max? Or pay a professional after ensuring they actually know what they are doing?

I am an engineer and am very OCD when it comes to projects that I'm interested in. If I laid a few tiles and concluded that my quality wasn't up to par I would definitely quit and hire someone. Thankfully there would be no time pressure as this is my shop and not the attached garage.

Appreciate any and all input. Thanks.

You sound very handy and probably would be able to install 12x24 but understand due to the lack of your tiling experience, your OCD will get the best of you. I can relate, as I suffer from it too.

If you do plan to tackle this project yourself I would highly recommend sticking with 12x12, as this size is more forgiving in the installation aspect. Plus it's also easier to achieve full thinset coverage under the tile which is crucial for a proper install.
If your heart desire is 12x24 and want a near perfect job, best would be to hire a pro.

Best of luck!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

You sound very handy and probably would be able to install 12x24 but understand due to the lack of your tiling experience, your OCD will get the best of you. I can relate, as I suffer from it too.

If you do plan to tackle this project yourself I would highly recommend sticking with 12x12, as this size is more forgiving in the installation aspect. Plus it's also easier to achieve full thinset coverage under the tile which is crucial for a proper install.
If your heart desire is 12x24 and want a near perfect job, best would be to hire a pro.

Best of luck!

Thanks for that input; more or less what I have been thinking myself. Installation issues aside, any opinion on the size opposite aesthetics? My thought was the larger the better in that size shop?

 

[southalabama]

I’d go 12x12.

I had a 40x60 red iron building built before the world went crazy. Since that time I’ve slowed on working on the interior. The plan is 12x12 porcelain in a 20x20 climate controlled portion. While it may look flat and be relatively flat a longer tile of 24” will be less forgiving if not absolutely leveled. I did a small restroom in my office in porcelain tile and hit an area that wasn’t flat. I broke a tile but was able to go back with more mastic and was able to fix the issue.

 

[trashmanssd]

I know what you are thinking that the small tile will look very busy on the floor. You could combat that by doing a double border than a pattern in the center. Pick 2 color tiles set the middle 16x16 to 20x20 area 45 degrees turned in a diamond type pattern. then run a square border around that for 3-4 tiles wide in the alternative color then use the middle tiles for the rest of the outside border. Trying to find a picture like this because I am not sure if my explanation is clear.

Or a Pattern like Dakota's but make the cross tile rows 2-3 tiles wide because of the size of your room.

A pattern with 2 colors will help distract your eye from the size of the tile and notice the pattern more. Also making the pattern multiple tiles wide will keep the pattern from looking busy.

Not sure if I am being clear or not. If not I can take some time and draw up a quick sketch and snap a picture and upload it. As I am failing at finding online pictures that demostrate my words.

 

[trashmanssd]

Sorta like this except the center tile color area is square with a diamond pattern in it.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Sorta like this except the center tile color area is square with a diamond pattern in it.

Thanks for the suggestion; something to consider. Here's a cut and paste from my first post: I want an "industrial" look so I will be looking for a matt finish in some combination of light and dark gray (dark down the center aisle and around the walls with light everywhere else).

I was thinking of using a border in a darker gray (but not too dark) 3' +/- around the two side and back walls with a center aisle maybe 4' +/- wide. That would leave two rectangles on each side just over 14' wide and ~36' long. I need to lay that out with my doors and planned lift and see if it's going to mess with my feng shui.

You have given me something to think about though regarding patterns. Thanks.

 

[ace10]

24x24, else you will be questioning your sanity on a job that large.

Use a good leveling system to avoid lippage.

I chose this tile for my 1700ft2 garage.

https://www.builddirect.com/Results?query=salerno everest

 

[justnutsandbolts]

24x24, else you will be questioning your sanity on a job that large.

Use a good leveling system to avoid lippage.

I chose this tile for my 1700ft2 garage.

https://www.builddirect.com/Results?query=salerno everest

Can you post pictures?
Salerno is not producing those 2 tiles that you linked anymore.
I was going to buy the last 700 sqft they had but at $2.5 / sqft, i could not justify the total cost of the floor (1700 + 3000 labor)

 

[ace10]

Can you post pictures?
Salerno is not producing those 2 tiles that you linked anymore.
I was going to buy the last 700 sqft they had but at $2.5 / sqft, i could not justify the total cost of the floor (1700 + 3000 labor)

I was getting bids in the $12-15k range, else I would not have done this DIY.
Simply way too big of a job, and with an occupied garage, very frustrating. More than I could have ever imagined.

Not quite finished. But here's a small area. Using schluter expansion profiles to cut field up into six sections. And using ramp profile for garage doors.

Tiles are being set in a medium bed of Mapei ultraflex LFT. Alone that's running nearly a buck a foot

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/Q1tztHZvrWhN

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/WquXOEH3hlxN

 

[ace10]

And here's the step at the entry door.
Schluter corner edging.
Can't install the PVC wall base until the entire tile job is complete. Some time in 2035. Lol.

But seriously, trying to do this in a full garage with many four post lifts is a miserable idea. Don't try this yourself. I spend more time on logistics and moving stuff than I do setting tile.


https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/2ZsWJ4SZ2X2N

 

[inphx]

I know it can take a while..

 

[mike93lx]

24x24, else you will be questioning your sanity on a job that large.

Use a good leveling system to avoid lippage.

I chose this tile for my 1700ft2 garage.

https://www.builddirect.com/Results?query=salerno everest

I would much rather lay 4x the tiles that are flatter and 1/4 the weight.

I'll pass on the wear and tear on my body from handling and back buttering all of those massive tiles

 

[ace10]

I would much rather lay 4x the tiles that are flatter and 1/4 the weight.

I'll pass on the wear and tear on my body from handling and back buttering all of those massive tiles

Flatter?

The chinese-made tiles I'm installing are perfectly flat and edges are rectified.

I'm not putting in hundreds of feet per day. So smaller tile is more work for me. And more grout. and harder to clean. And trying to install small tile on a medium bed would be a difficult task. At least for this shade tree tile installer.

 

[mike93lx]

Flatter?

The chinese-made tiles I'm installing are perfectly flat and edges are rectified.

I'm not putting in hundreds of feet per day. So smaller tile is more work for me. And more grout. and harder to clean. And trying to install small tile on a medium bed would be a difficult task. At least for this shade tree tile installer.

Yes, nearly all large format tiles "bubble" up in the center. That's why back buttering is so critical on large format

Grout is easy to do. But I'm glad you found a setup that works for you

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Flatter?

The chinese-made tiles I'm installing are perfectly flat and edges are rectified.

I'm not putting in hundreds of feet per day. So smaller tile is more work for me. And more grout. and harder to clean. And trying to install small tile on a medium bed would be a difficult task. At least for this shade tree tile installer.

Ace your file sharing links have expired. I looked at them when you first posted but can't see them now. No hurry but a pic or two would be great. Thanks.

 

[ace10]

Ace your file sharing links have expired. I looked at them when you first posted but can't see them now. No hurry but a pic or two would be great. Thanks.

Pics attached. Hopefully.