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Porcelain Workshop Floor

pgray007

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Charlotte, NC area
This was very detailed and helpful, and gives me some confidence in attempting my own tiling. If you were using square tiles, would you recommend starting in the middle of the garage, where the expansion joints for a T to avoid having a cut row in the middle, or will this create potential problems elsewhere?


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Cave Creek Ray

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North Central Arizona
P,

That's the fun of a garage. You can ignore the "super ****" rules of tiling and go with what makes more sense for your install.

If you are laying in a "checkerboard" pattern with the tiles in straight rows, centering the joint under the tile gap, you could do that just fine. The edges are going to be far enough away that either row of side tiles will be slightly different in width but, who's gonna know? Most of the time you'll have a car or two in there.

This garage I just completed was a three-car. That meant I had two expansion joints running the length of the garage and then two horizontal joints to contend with. One of those ended up withing 2" of a tile joint so I just set the tiles and IF there is any movement, it should show up as a tiny hairline crack in the grout. If I really hate it I can re-grout it or caulk it with a color-matched product that moves.

Good luck and have fun!

:)
 
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Cave Creek Ray

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North Central Arizona
One "SAFETY" note I keep forgetting to mention.

If you are going to be on your knees for hours, you absolutely have to use knee pads if you ever plan on walking again.

I have some pretty fancy silicone pads that work great in long pants but the dual strap drives you crazy in shorts as the straps slide into the backside of your knee. Its really irritating. I bought a set of cheapie ($4) single-strap foam pads at Home Depot and they are awesome. They provide plenty of padding yet stay put and don't irritate a naked, dirty, sweating leg. I have since bought a few more pair as they last a whole job and you can chuck them if they get too nasty -or use them for outdoor work.

The other thing is DO NOT TRY to dry cut all your tiles with a diamond saw. Porcelain dust is nasty stuff and breathing it is not good. Use a wet saw.

Speaking of wet saws, I used a RIGID 10" blade for the last 3/4 of my workshop and the whole three car garage. Its still cutting after over 1600 feet of tile. It was $40 and worth it. If you rent a wet saw you will get the blade they have installed unless you ask them to change it. My "rental" saw (that I bought from HD Rental) came with a blade that was worn out on one side because the sliding table was not square with the blade and the tiles were going through the blade at a slight angle. Truing up the table was easy enough using a square.

Wear ear protection when cutting tiles. A wet saw is a loud machine and using a wet stone on porcelain after cutting to knock off the sharp edge is brutally loud too. Save your ears. Hearing damage is cumulative.

Working in the wet for a few hours is brutal on your hands, especially if you have dry skin. I kept a tub of Eucerin creme handy and would lube up twice a day and that kept my hands in really good shape. I tried wearing disposable gloves but they slide and limit your grip. If you wear gloves, keep your hands protected as sweat will accumulate in your gloves and further **** the oils out of your skin. Mortar and grout have lye in them that will waste your hands if not protected.

Tile is heavy, especially in the shipping boxes. Most tile boxes weigh in the neighborhood of 80 lbs. Take care when lifting those and break the boxes down if need be. Use a Harbor Freight small moving dolly to move the tile around the work space. It will save your back.

And don't forget to take a break and try to stretch out your back and neck so you don't end up "tweaked" the next day.

For mixing my mortar and grout, I used a HF Heavy-Duty reversible drill that ran $35. Awesome for mixing and the reversing action really whipped the mortar up and kept the quality high. I used a four hoop mixing paddle and it cleaned up well after each mixing. Keep your tools clean as you go because solid mortar is hard to get off steel or chrome.

I mixed all my mortar in a smaller black two-gallon bucket from the paint department at HD. It will do about 3/4 a bag of mortar which is enough for one period. I tried to keep it clean but by the end of the job, the upper lip had a nice accretion of mud stuck to it. You just don't want any bits breaking off in your mud or mortar. When you are done with the job, you can pitch it. If you were wondering, I have found in summer temps, mortar will last about three hours in a bucket before it starts setting up. Keep mixing it with your margin trowel to keep the consistency up and everything fluid.

Last thing: Shoes. Working with cementaceous products takes its toll on footwear. The mortar and grout are bad enough but the dust of prep and mixing will toast most tennis shoes in little more than one job. Spending so much time on the floor bends the shoes for prolonged periods. I ended up with rips along side of the shoes in three pair over both projects before I got done. But, the cost was, my feet made it through with little damage. Protect those toes. Don't wear flip flops.

Ray
 
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Cave Creek Ray

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HOLY ****! THE TILE MUST HAVE STRETCHED MY GARAGE!!!

I can actually find my motorcycles now...

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The Burgman on the right is heavy. My wife's Vespa is not light.

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Its getting there.

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wasfast

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Apr 10, 2014
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San Diego CA
Totally impressive work, detailed description and tips! What do you use the Polaris Ranger XP for? Truly off road or an alternate in town vehicle?
 
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Cave Creek Ray

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Mar 8, 2015
Messages
383
Location
North Central Arizona
Everything.

In AZ they are street legal so I run errands around the local area and haul stuff between the house and barn. Its a small pick-up that is loud and gets 18mpg -but its fun to drive.
 

Pay2play

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Jun 20, 2015
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As always, an awesome write up Ray. Thanks for sharing your wisdom! A great read. Can't wait until my project gets started!


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Cave Creek Ray

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Mar 8, 2015
Messages
383
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North Central Arizona
P2P,

Can't wait to see your project. All you guys getting ready to tile, start a thread on your project so we can follow along. Don't forget to take loads of pictures.

I just bought a 6mp Canon camera in near mint shape at the Kiwani Flea Market for $2. You don't have to use your good camera! Its great to have a "combat camera" for projects... or just taking it into the pool...

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Pay2play

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Jun 20, 2015
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Three year update: Zero cracks in tile or grout. Same for garage up at house.



Tile is just amazing. Everyone who sees it wants it.



Same for me as I near two years. I’ve drug my snowmobile carbides across it and no damage. Oil wipes up and after a sloppy Northern winter a quick power wash of the floor with an emphasis on cleaning the grout lines, it’s like new again. Still glad I did it. No regrets.


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bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
Looks great!

Is there an online source for reasonably priced tile?

I cant find any near me that aren't very large tiles, 24x24 or close to it.
 

Angelfire

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Mar 22, 2012
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Location
New Mexico and Ireland
Looks great!

Is there an online source for reasonably priced tile?

I cant find any near me that aren't very large tiles, 24x24 or close to it.

I found mine at Build.com They often clearance their stuff so keep an eye out there. You'll have to pay freight to get it but when you're ready to order, call them as I got a much better freight rate vs. what they showed me online.
Cheers.
 

bullnerd

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Thanks Angel, I see some good prices so far, but all large tiles.

I'll keep looking.
 

Angelfire

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Mar 22, 2012
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Location
New Mexico and Ireland
Thanks Angel, I see some good prices so far, but all large tiles.

I'll keep looking.

Truth be told, I found a tile I wanted from them but at $3.99/sf, that wasn’t going to happen. I kept watching it and about the 6 month mark, bam it went on clearance. So patience does pay off sometimes
Cheers
 
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