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Porcelain

Jsf721

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Thinking of porcelain tile over epoxy coated cement floor.

I need to know everything there is to know about porcelain flooring and specifically:
I want to do this once and the really right way-
1. Is all porcelain tile created equal or is the a better more durable grade for the garage? It there a rating system?
2. What is the type and brand of the best tinset for this application?
3. I want a slip resistant surface but the textured tile hold so much dirt. What is the best surface?
4. I got a quotes for installation ranging from 5.00/sq foot to 8.50/sq foot for install. I am sure this is regional. I hired a guy to do my homes lower level for 6 bucks a square and if he does a great job I will give him the garage to do-lol. Garage is my favorite room in the house. He is doing about 1000 sq feet for me on 1/12 inside the house. Does this sound right. This is labor and tools only. I provide everything else.
5. Grout- what is the best most stain resistant grout. I won't need a ton so the best is what I want. My garage is a standard 2 car garage. Aprox 20' wide and 20' deep. I have read about ground quartz grout, power grout and various additives.
6 what do I need to know about the installation over current epoxy. All the loose stuff is removed.
7 any tips on getting a very solid thinset base with and air to compromise durability?
8. What is the optimal grout width? I like thinner lines for aesthetic reasons but this may not be the best for durability.
9. What is the best transition material for the side the cars enter.

What else didn't I ask that I need to know.

Thanks in advance for your help with this project.
 
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Jsf721

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Ismthismsome type of new guy initiation? Lots of views and no one response? Hello.....is this thing on?
 

dmeadow

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Well, you are asking a lot of detailed questions, most of which have already been done to death on this forum. You're asking someone to put a lot of work into repeating stuff for you that you can find with a little searching. Do your research and boil your questions down to specifics and you'll get better responses.
 
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Jsf721

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Merry Christmas! I just saw a lot of views but no responses. Hopemyoumhad a great day with the family.

And it is christmas by the way, a lot are spending time with families today. be patient and while you wait follow the previous post.:thumbup:
 

myslow2002gt

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Knoxville, TN
I'm currently laying porcelain tile in my new shop and can answer with what I have learned along the way:

Tile is rated in hardness (PEI rating), coefficient of friction (wet/dry), and moisture content for areas that will see freeze/thaw periods.

I chose tile that had a PEI rating of 5 and had a wet friction rating of 0.66 which I found to be about right. It looks smooth to eye but does have a nice texture to it that will help me from killing myself when it's wet. Another thing to decide for yourself, is if you want a solid color tile in case you chip a tile.

As for the thinset, if your slab will see anything near freezing temps you should use a good quality thinset like Kerabond or Versabond that is made for outdoor/cold weather use.

I would use an expoxy grout or a dark colored sandable grout for a garage setting. It will help hide any stains from oil or solvents. When you install the tile, you will need to make sure there are no voids in the thinset that will cause issues with heavy load items like vehicles, so you need to backbutter each tile as well.

As for spacing, I used 1/8" and think it's the best way to go for a garage. If you can get tile with a rectified edge, it will make things easier.

Your epoxy should come up before installation of hte tile or you will have separation problems.
 
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Jsf721

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Thanks for sharing. Is your project complete? Wondering ifnthenrough surface I need so I don't kill myself as well causes the dirt to get trapped?

Thanks again for sharing.

And it is christmas by the way, a lot are spending time with families today. be patient and while you wait follow the previous post.:thumbup:

I'm currently laying porcelain tile in my new shop and can answer with what I have learned along the way:

Tile is rated in hardness (PEI rating), coefficient of friction (wet/dry), and moisture content for areas that will see freeze/thaw periods.

I chose tile that had a PEI rating of 5 and had a wet friction rating of 0.66 which I found to be about right. It looks smooth to eye but does have a nice texture to it that will help me from killing myself when it's wet. Another thing to decide for yourself, is if you want a solid color tile in case you chip a tile.

As for the thinset, if your slab will see anything near freezing temps you should use a good quality thinset like Kerabond or Versabond that is made for outdoor/cold weather use.

I would use an expoxy grout or a dark colored sandable grout for a garage setting. It will help hide any stains from oil or solvents. When you install the tile, you will need to make sure there are no voids in the thinset that will cause issues with heavy load items like vehicles, so you need to backbutter each tile as well.

As for spacing, I used 1/8" and think it's the best way to go for a garage. If you can get tile with a rectified edge, it will make things easier.

Your epoxy should come up before installation of hte tile or you will have separation problems.
 

myslow2002gt

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Knoxville, TN
No, my floor is not 100% complete yet. I have a total of 2000 sq.ft in my shop and so far I have laid ~1400 sq ft. Getting close but not quite there!

I don't feel the roughness of the tile is enough to trap dirt, although I did choose a tile that some light brown/tan color in it to hide the dirt. I live in the south, where we have a lot of the red clay and it does a great job of hiding it. Cleanup is very simple so far.
 

bdamico

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best thing you can do is search for porcelain and read. all these have been covered including in my own threads.
 

PT Doc

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What's the deal with many words being combined into one word by the op? Difficult to read to say the least or trying to guess what's being asked.
 
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Jsf721

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Bingo---i am On vacation. I just got the iPad and I keep hitting the m and n key instead of space bar. I had the spell check turned off Bc it was a pita. Sorry for the confusion. I posted most of that from the beach and reading this thing outside is a bear.

Please accept my apologies.

Jeff


What's the deal with many words being combined into one word by the op? Difficult to read to say the least or trying to guess what's being asked.

Looks like he's hitting the "m" or "n" key instead of the space bar.

Mark
 
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Shocker

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Do you have any pics of the current floor? Is the epoxy peeling off or otherwise failing?

You will have to strip the floor of all epoxy for the thinset to grab.
 
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Jsf721

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The floor is in pretty good shape with a few areas that were damaged by the flood water that was forced up through the slab? I have been living here for over 20 years and never had a issue. I either need to top coat it or cover it. Looked at interlocking tiles but the dovetail (waterproof) type will run approx $ 2700 for a 22x22 approximate area including the trim transition. Dimensions are rough. It is a standard 2 car garage. For that money I think porcelain is a better not permanent value.

Do you have any pics of the current floor? Is the epoxy peeling off or otherwise failing?

You will have to strip the floor of all epoxy for the thinset to grab.
 

Dakota00

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If the epoxy is adhered well to the concrete all the surface will need is a good roughing up, so the thinset can stick to it. Areas where the epoxy is falling it should be taken down to the bare concrete.
 

myslow2002gt

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Myslow2002GT, what specific tile did you use? Are you laying it yoruself? Got pics?

Mark

I don't remember the specific brand off the top of my head, I'll be sure to look and reply back.

I am laying it myself, which is a lot of work and the reason it's taking so long. I've laid tile before and am being meticulous (probably too much) on the garage tile but I'm finally getting close to being done.

Picture of tile (don't mind the air line on the floor):

56e933e9dc8c654cae3ffe1ebfa3f131.jpg
 
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Jsf721

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That is good to know. I already took off all the loose epoxy. Since I see your a tile setter I have a question. In awe you did not read my intro my house was flooded. I pulled up all the carpet and padding. We are installing tile. We have a bathroom that has a great mosaic and is hand set piece by piece we found a modern mesh backed tile that approximates it. Do you think that if I don't pull up that bathroom floor I risk mold issues. The issue is we love the floor. It's 4x8 so it's not the expense of the tile or labor. It was disinfected with shockwave to prevent mold and milder and dried. I did remove all the sheet rock and base molding. . Thanks,

Jeff

If the epoxy is adhered well to the concrete all the surface will need is a good roughing up, so the thinset can stick to it. Areas where the epoxy is falling it should be taken down to the bare concrete.
 
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Jsf721

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Looks great. I am thinking of doing a charcoal and light gray checker board pattern with almost black grout.

I don't remember the specific brand off the top of my head, I'll be sure to look and reply back.

I am laying it myself, which is a lot of work and the reason it's taking so long. I've laid tile before and am being meticulous (probably too much) on the garage tile but I'm finally getting close to being done.

Picture of tile (don't mind the air line on the floor):

56e933e9dc8c654cae3ffe1ebfa3f131.jpg
 

bernialisha

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In my opinion it's better to choose the concrete flooring or epoxy flooring, because these are gives the grand look to our home. These things are working also very nice, long life living products.
 

Dakota00

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That is good to know. I already took off all the loose epoxy. Since I see your a tile setter I have a question. In awe you did not read my intro my house was flooded. I pulled up all the carpet and padding. We are installing tile. We have a bathroom that has a great mosaic and is hand set piece by piece we found a modern mesh backed tile that approximates it. Do you think that if I don't pull up that bathroom floor I risk mold issues. The issue is we love the floor. It's 4x8 so it's not the expense of the tile or labor. It was disinfected with shockwave to prevent mold and milder and dried. I did remove all the sheet rock and base molding. . Thanks,

Jeff

If the original mosaic has no broken or missing tiles or grout damage, I would say you're fine to leave it. As long as the surface was properly disinfected there shouldn't be any issues with mold once dried.
 
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Jsf721

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If the original mosaic has no broken or missing tiles or grout damage, I would say you're fine to leave it. As long as the surface was properly disinfected there shouldn't be any issues with mold once dried.

Thanks for the response. I am glad to hear that as we would really like to keep the original floor. They don't make them like that anymore.
 
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