jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
I know this isn't groundbreaking tech, but I thought I'd share. Maybe someone else is in the same boat.
I have a Swag Portaband Table, and have always severely disliked the HF footswitch option. 1) It just didn't fit the way I used my saw so the switch always lay beside the saw on the bench 2) thus I felt this was unsafe.
I bought one of these Kreg switches for a router table on Ebay. The saw says 11 amp, and this is good for 15. It also has a 2nd outlet on the back I may be able to use for a lamp later on.
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/routing-accessories/p151/multi-purpose-router-table-switch/
I got mine around $32 shipped on ebay. So this wasn't a cheap project, but I already have quite a bit invested, this is what I wanted.
And mounted it with a piece of scrap angle I had. To keep everything neat and tight, I drilled and tapped the side of the table leg, 1/4-20. Due to the thin leg, 1/4-28 would have been better, but I had these short pan head screws laying around.
I have a Swag Portaband Table, and have always severely disliked the HF footswitch option. 1) It just didn't fit the way I used my saw so the switch always lay beside the saw on the bench 2) thus I felt this was unsafe.
I bought one of these Kreg switches for a router table on Ebay. The saw says 11 amp, and this is good for 15. It also has a 2nd outlet on the back I may be able to use for a lamp later on.
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/routing-accessories/p151/multi-purpose-router-table-switch/
I got mine around $32 shipped on ebay. So this wasn't a cheap project, but I already have quite a bit invested, this is what I wanted.
And mounted it with a piece of scrap angle I had. To keep everything neat and tight, I drilled and tapped the side of the table leg, 1/4-20. Due to the thin leg, 1/4-28 would have been better, but I had these short pan head screws laying around.
