Portaband versus benchtop bandsaw

[jives]

I've been using an angle grinder and a reciprocating saw to cut metal, and it is time to up my game. At first I was going to get a used chop saw with abrasive blade, then was convinced to get a chop saw with a carbide toothed blade, and now I am convinced a bandsaw is the way to go.

Discussions on GJ show a strong like of a portable bandsaw using a SWAG table or similar. Given that a typical corded saw is $250, the SWAG table and accessories (miter gauge & switch) are another $200, we are looking at quite an investment.

So why not a small table mounted bandsaw like the ones below that are cheaper? Other than better portability, what does a portaband offer that one of these others do not?

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-5-portable-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0885

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-4-x-6-3-4-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0622

Or this Klutch from Northern tool:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...VibWzCh1o6A3hEAQYBSABEgLxUPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[csp]

If you're cutting metal for fabrication projects make your own portaband stand. There are lots of examples of DIY stands on the web, in both photo, video and web writeup forms.

Harbor Freight sells a remote, foot operated switch for under $20 IIRC. They have both on/off and momentary versions.

 

[Kenstone1]

Youtube is full of DIY portaband stands and I'm sure others will be posting their builds here soon.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=portable+bandsaw+stand

This is my HF saw stand.
There are many like it but this one is mine.

I threw one together made of scrap wood even though I have a welder to make a metal stand.
It was meant to be temporary, but I've never made it over yet, or removed the saw from the stand.
A hose clamp over the trigger switch and plugged into a power strip with an on/off switch solved that problem.
I built it to be clamped in the until-now-useless vise on the end of my HF bench, and it has been permanently mounted there.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1071798&d=1605633931

 

[jives]

Seen the high end and the low end DIY stands. But, my question remains unanswered.

This DeWalt portable bandsaw is $300, similar to a comparable Milwaukee or Makita.
https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/885911/885911048187.jpg?size=pdhi

This Grizz with stand is only $60 more. Other than portability, why is the portaband a better option?
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-4-x-6-3-4-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0622

 

[csp]

Why is the portaband a better option?

Floor space if it's at a premium.

I'd guess that most who go to the portaband tables already have the portaband, which you can find used ones in great condition all day long for $150 or less.

All of those Chi-com 4x6 convertible saws are pretty much the same. Don't buy the most expensive one if you go that route.

I have a 4x6 and 7x12 convertible saws and still my go to is the portaband on the table. The other two are used almost exclusively in their horizontal cutting positions.

 

[Kenstone1]

Seen the high end and the low end DIY stands. But, my question remains unanswered.

This DeWalt portable bandsaw is $300, similar to a comparable Milwaukee or Makita.
https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/885911/885911048187.jpg?size=pdhi

This Grizz with stand is only $60 more. Other than portability, why is the portaband a better option?
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-4-x-6-3-4-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0622

OK then
Because your initial question was related to COST verses benefits, I posted the HF saw ($100) and a DIY stand ($0) for consideration at that lower COST.

Now, the difference as I see it.

The only benefit I see of the horizontal saws you mentioned is you could clamp the material in the vise, start the saw, and walk away and let the saw do it's work.
With a portaband type saw you would need to feed the material into the blade and guide it along to get the proper cut you need.

Only you can decide if that is important enough to you, to want to pay for it.
Most all the saws you mentioned are from China, so any differences would be just the warrentee.
jmo,

Edit: In a recent thread a member had mentioned about buying that Grizzly saw (and paying shipping) that arrived damaged.
He walked into Harbor Freight and saw the indentical saw, only a different color, priced cheaper and NO shipping.
this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html
oops, Not identical though, Grizzly=3/4 HP, HF= 1 HP.

 

[bigmike989]

For me, the reason for a portaband + SWAG means I still have a portaband, when needed. Doing mostly tube cuts here, so little need for a set and forget horizontal unit.

 

[tarbellb]

If you dont see yourself doing either:

_ cuts out in the field/shop
or
_ contour cuts

The small footprint gravity fed saws are amazing for the price and convenience. I have both the very nice FEMI HEM 782XL ($550+) and the Northern Tool Klutch posted above ($200 on sale).

The FEMI is no doubt a better saw, but still lots of plastic. For the price, the Klutch has proven to be a good enough tool. Being able to set angles, have a fence/vise, and walking away from a cut are really nice.

Now, if considering a portable bandsaw and table, the HF saw and any of the cheap tables that bolt on are absolutely worth the entry cost. Again, contours, field work are the benefit.

Pick your poison, you'll likely find you want both :]

 

[warren.albert.77]

I bought a cordless Ryobi portaband for portability but plan to make a table also. I like the idea of the versatility.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PugetDude]

Portaband saw blades are a lot cheaper than the Hemsaw/clone blades. Because there are so many of these saws out there running the same blade size they've become a commodity item and priced accordingly. I've bought name brand (Milwaukee/Dewalt) blades on sale from Zoro/Cripe/eBay for as little as $3.00/blade, Starrett and Lenox run a bit more.
I built a quickie stand for my Dewalt portaband out of two pieces of aluminum, it clamps into my vise. Takes about 3 minutes to convert from portable to fixed. I've cut everything from sheetmetal to 1/2" plate with mine.

 

[BlackLS2]

For me, the reason for a portaband + SWAG means I still have a portaband, when needed.

This. I first made a nice little porta-band table out of an old Craftsman router table, used it for years. Last year I sprang for a SWAG...whole 'nuther level. The flexibility of the porta band is great; has saved a ton of time for me on projects over the years. The SWAG makes it awesome. Incredibly verstle. Just picked up the Incra V27 miter gauge for the SWAG table...and that is another level of wow!

The thing about the SWAG table that I did not expect is it's so well done, right down to the shipping, you also get that proud 'merica small business vibe.

 

[Banjorear]

This. I first made a nice little porta-band table out of an old Craftsman router table, used it for years. Last year I sprang for a SWAG...whole 'nuther level. The flexibility of the porta band is great; has saved a ton of time for me on projects over the years. The SWAG makes it awesome. Incredibly verstle. Just picked up the Incra V27 miter gauge for the SWAG table...and that is another level of wow!

The thing about the SWAG table that I did not expect is it's so well done, right down to the shipping, you also get that proud 'merica small business vibe.

I need a metal cutting saw and I'm going to go this route as well. I have the porta-band already.

 

[Banjorear]

Here is another US-made stand option:

 

[dnschmidt]

I seem to be missing the point. Those aren't vertical band saws. A real deal vertical band saw cost several thousands of dollars (think DoAll). A vertical bandsaw is one in which you push the material into the blade. A portaband on a Swag table is in fact a VERTICAL band saw. Those horizontal saws are for chopping material up for welding. A vertical bandsaw is for cutting 1/2" of material off of something (sheet metal would be a good example) to make it fit.

 

[KSJeff]

Not quite on topic but I recently went down this rabbit hole. I own the HF (Bauer) portable band saw and I needed to cut metal. I really needed to cut some 45 degree angles. I looked at the Klutch and HF saw as well as other options.

I ended up buying the Evolution R355CPS chop saw. I can't figure out the difference between this saw and the full metal saw except for the blade. With Mendards 11% cash back, I bought the saw for $215. I haven't used it yet, but I've watched numerous videos of the saw cutting and for what I need it for (1x1 and 2x2 square) it's perfect.

I'm still going to build a stand for my Bauer, but it's moved way down my list.

 

[Cryptic1911]

The portabands are cool - we have one, but they are a bit limited in use. They are great for cutting bar stock and small things, as well as being portable since you can pop it out of the base. The issue that you run into is that you're limited by the width and length of something you're cutting. The blade is diagonal to the body and you can cut something thin and long, but if you want more than say 4-5" of cut, the corner of what you're cutting ends up running into the motor section of the portaband. At least with a benchtop band saw, you'd have whatever depth the throat is, but you can cut an infinite length since the blade is straight and you have no "machine" to run into with the edge of what you're cutting

 

[motofool33]

cheap vertical bandsaw Portaband and Swag style table(i have the Milwaukee version). but they dont cut straight very frustrating but still useful. for miter cuts and straight cuts if you dont need big ill be doing an evolution saw i wish they made a dual bevel 10-14inch saw but biggest is 8inch. next best is the table top band saw trajan from sawblade.com was on sale for 399 looks like they raised the price again.

and i have a 8x12 kalamazoo horizontal band saw but its just such a pain to cut angles on, im ready to replace it with a Dry Cut Evo Chop saw

 

[jives]

Good info, folks, thanks. Given my current needs and hopefully future needs, I think the portaband with homemade stand is the way to go. I'm good with used, but used portabands are not common in my little town. Just need to be patient.

 

[PugetDude]

Good info, folks, thanks. Given my current needs and hopefully future needs, I think the portaband with homemade stand is the way to go. I'm good with used, but used portabands are not common in my little town. Just need to be patient.

I bought my Dewalt Portaband for $70 on eBay. Guy in Seattle bought the stock of a big contractor after a project, he had a dozen of them listed, along with hole hawgs and rotohammers.. Took me an hour with a can of lacquer thinner to remove the neon green paint. Works well but it does eat drive wheel tires when you use it in the vertical position, the swarf follows the blade down into the drive wheel. Thinking about mounting a toothbrush or a magnet below the table to try to divert or contain the swarf. Anyone else noticed this?

 

[Kenstone1]

I bought my Dewalt Portaband for $70 on eBay. Guy in Seattle bought the stock of a big contractor after a project, he had a dozen of them listed, along with hole hawgs and rotohammers.. Took me an hour with a can of lacquer thinner to remove the neon green paint. Works well but it does eat drive wheel tires when you use it in the vertical position, the swarf follows the blade down into the drive wheel. Thinking about mounting a toothbrush or a magnet below the table to try to divert or contain the swarf. Anyone else noticed this?

Thanks for the heads-up swarf problem, mine's mounted vertically and need to check it.
I also found the swarf ending up inside the motor, getting there via the housing vents.
I just duct taped over those vent directly behind the blade.
Circled red in the pic:
I had it clamped in a workmate clone, horizontal-blade up before that and the chips would get into the motor so I had ALL the vents covered then (2nd pic).

 

[bdbecker]

...Works well but it does eat drive wheel tires when you use it in the vertical position, the swarf follows the blade down into the drive wheel. Thinking about mounting a toothbrush or a magnet below the table to try to divert or contain the swarf. Anyone else noticed this?

Hmmm... good point. I'm going to add something to my saw/table.

 

[ZRX61]

Both... (says the guy who at one point had five bandsaws...)

 

[Jland]

I bought the Bauer saw from harbor freight with a coupon for 83 bucks.. went to the local metal supply house and bought 20 bucks of scrap.. 2pcs 1/4" and 1pc 5/16". For less than 110.00 total i made my own table. Its only drawback is 5 1/2" depth otherwise this thing kicks ***.. lennox blades ****.. olsen no issues. Your results may vary

 

[nimrag]

I bought the Bauer saw from harbor freight with a coupon for 83 bucks.. went to the local metal supply house and bought 20 bucks of scrap.. 2pcs 1/4" and 1pc 5/16". For less than 110.00 total i made my own table. Its only drawback is 5 1/2" depth otherwise this thing kicks ***.. lennox blades ****.. olsen no issues. Your results may vary

Can you post a picture of the underside?

Thanks

 

[jives]

I bought the Bauer saw from harbor freight with a coupon for 83 bucks.. went to the local metal supply house and bought 20 bucks of scrap.. 2pcs 1/4" and 1pc 5/16". For less than 110.00 total i made my own table. Its only drawback is 5 1/2" depth otherwise this thing kicks ***.. lennox blades ****.. olsen no issues. Your results may vary

Yup, this seems the way to go. Wait for the next $84 HF coupon, make my own stand. Already planning it out to fit with my drill press cabinet I built. Thought about a Mikita cordless to add to my Makita system, but even the tool only is over $300. Naw, won't use it that often to justify such as cost.

 

[Kenstone1]

Yup, this seems the way to go. Wait for the next $84 HF coupon, make my own stand. Already planning it out to fit with my drill press cabinet I built. Thought about a Mikita cordless to add to my Makita system, but even the tool only is over $300. Naw, won't use it that often to justify such as cost.

OK then
Sounds like you are going the same route I posted earlier, that you poopoo'ed as off topic:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8789323&postcount=3
It always comes down to cost$$.

Post up pics of your set-up, once you buy the saw.

 

[bdbecker]

Since we're sharing pics... I call mine the Glitter Grinder 9000. I mounted an electrical box with an outlet underneath that is controlled by the 120v toggle switch on the front panel. Plug the stand/electrical box cord into the wall, plug the saw and task light into the box outlet, and everything turns on/off as needed.

View media item 108027
I messed up my blade relief cut and had to weld/recut it, but you can see from the pic that I used a second plate welded to the bottom instead of trying to cut a counterbore for the screw heads.

View media item 102316
Also, keep an eye on square when you're setting it up.

View media item 102319

 

[Jland]

Nimrag.. here is the bottom..