Portable Air Compressor Size for Impact Hammer Home Use

[ddc9999]

I tried searching but it’s such a niche question I had no luck.

I don’t have an air compressor and have all battery powered tools really. Unfortunately, I’d love an air hammer as there is no real battery powered equivalent without getting a massive SDS style drill. Air compressor would also be handy for other things as I don’t have any nail guns, plus just to use instead of having to buy air cans all the time for cleaning ****.

I will only be using the air hammer occasionally to remove stubborn **** on a car. This isn’t for daily shop use, it won’t get used often. Can a 6 gallon pancake compressor run an air hammer long enough to knock **** loose? Thinking stuck rotors, suspension parts, stubborn snap rings, etc. It’s ok if it has to refill now and again as I doubt I’d have to beat on something for twenty minutes straight with one. It’d also be nice if I could use the Big Nasty air hammer with it but I hear it devours air.


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[Jswain]

I'd think if I were going to spend the amount of money required to buy the big nasty + a 6 gallon compressor i would shuffle more money to the compressor side and less to the air hammer.

I've never had a compressor that small but I'm pretty sure you will be very let down.

I'm pretty sure the harbor freight long barrel chief gun has good reviews south of the border so I'd look more at something like that and take every penny saved of the difference and put it into a minimum 20gallon compressor

 

[kbeefy]

20+ for very intermittent work.

 

[strutaeng]

Air hammer are air hogs. For any real work, I'd agree a 20 gallon would be bare minimum. A 30 gallon would be better.

I think I used a HF air impact hammer once on a CH 30 gallon 240V and it worked ok. Air compressor was around 9 CFM. I bet under load the CFM is around 10 cfm of those things.

 

[Imatk]

After using my angle grinder extensively over the last few days and wishing I had more space for a larger tank compressor I would suggest you get the largest you can afford/fit.

If I could fit a 60 gallon it would be in my garage.

I wanted to get an Eastwood Scroll compressor because of the small footprint, but haven't gotten any definitive... "it's good get it" reviews from folks here.

 

[ddc9999]

That’s a shame. The pancake compressor is probably the biggest I could get and be willing to store for how much use it’d get Since I have so many battery powered tools.

Thanks for the assistance in letting me know what size I’d need. I literally may be better off just getting a SDS M18 drill at some point to beat on **** instead.

 

[toddmorr]

i'll offer a different pov. I've used a makita 2400 for almost 10 yrs now, pretty much just as the OP intends--suspension work, stubborn stuff, crankshaft bolts, at least 3 times a week, with a couple different air hammers. It's 4.2cfm/4.2gallons. It does just fine. Occasionally I have to wait but not a big deal. It is a big deal if i try to use an air grinder or air cut off tool.....the wait time on those is too often, too long. Put another way, I have the room for a 60 gallon and someday might indulge, but for now, the equation doesn't close for me.

also, for the OP's intended use, big nasty seems like overkill. Better off looking at 401 shank hammers, plenty of power for 99% of needs.

 

[ddc9999]

i'll offer a different pov. I've used a makita 2400 for almost 10 yrs now, pretty much just as the OP intends--suspension work, stubborn stuff, crankshaft bolts, at least 3 times a week, with a couple different air hammers. It's 4.2cfm/4.2gallons. It does just fine. Occasionally I have to wait but not a big deal. It is a big deal if i try to use an air grinder or air cut off tool.....the wait time on those is too often, too long. Put another way, I have the room for a 60 gallon and someday might indulge, but for now, the equation doesn't close for me.

also, for the OP's intended use, big nasty seems like overkill. Better off looking at 401 shank hammers, plenty of power for 99% of needs.

Thanks for the suggestion! I knew big nasty would be overkill. But if you can make due with a 4.20 gallon tank then maybe I do have a chance. I have a dremel, M12 die grinder and 3/8” compact impact. I have M18 1/2” mid and high torque impacts as well as their 4.5” angle grinder. I really would be getting the compressor just for the air hammer, ability to spray compressed air, and to use with pin and brad nailers down the line. I would use the air hammer so little that I just need to know I can get myself unstuck from a stock job with it. I’ve made due without one my whole life at home so I can handle a little downtime between it handing out bearings.

So you think with a pancake compressor (6 gallon I believe) to just run a air hammer intermittently like that? I can get a lot of utility out of that compressor if so, but otherwise there’s not point. It’s not like I need the air to handle impacts and grinders and hammers all at once. Just a couple minutes of whackings when a job gets stuck. I have pullers and **** too if I ever get totally hosed.

This is what I had in mind:

6 Gal. 18-Gauge Brad Nailer and Heavy-Duty Pancake Electric Air Compressor Combo Kit (1-Tool)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/312030412

I’d just want to get the strongest air hammer it can handle that can still do basic car **** up to an SUV in size.


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[timchin1]

I was in the same position you are in, when i stopped working in a shop I switched the ratchets and impacts to cordless. I only really needed an air compressor for suspension, specifically removing wheel hub/bearing assemblies. I have a Snap-on PH3050, and the first job i needed to use that on I had to borrow my friends comressor. I believe it was the Dewalt pancake one you linked to. It kinda worked, but the air hammer was a little down on power and had to wait for it to charge up every 20 seconds. I don't have a garage so, i have to store the comressor in my walk-out basement. I ended up buying the Makita mac5200 on sale at Home Depot. The air hammer hits really hard and runs for a decent amount of time. Plus that Makita compressor is on wheels so easy to roll in and around the back of the house.

 

[ddc9999]

I was in the same position you are in, when i stopped working in a shop I switched the ratchets and impacts to cordless. I only really needed an air compressor for suspension, specifically removing wheel hub/bearing assemblies. I have a Snap-on PH3050, and the first job i needed to use that on I had to borrow my friends comressor. I believe it was the Dewalt pancake one you linked to. It kinda worked, but the air hammer was a little down on power and had to wait for it to charge up every 20 seconds. I don't have a garage so, i have to store the comressor in my walk-out basement. I ended up buying the Makita mac5200 on sale at Home Depot. The air hammer hits really hard and runs for a decent amount of time. Plus that Makita compressor is on wheels so easy to roll in and around the back of the house.

I just realized the CFM of the compressor I linked it too low. I saw you need like 4 CFM for an air hammer, and want 6+ CFM ideally. With the makita compressor you have, do you find the gallon size of it limiting? Sounds like no in which case I can stick to a smaller size compressor 5-8 gallon so long as the CFM’s are on point. Don’t know anything about the SNAP ON hammer you have, I guess you’d say it’s plenty strong enough for needs up to a SUV? I can’t afford snap on, but I’m just trying to benchmark what I need if that makes sense.

 

[KnurledNut]

More volume doesnt always equal more CFM.

I have a Rolair FC2002 4.3 gal.
It has a 2HP oil lubricated pump running at 3400 rpm.
This provides 4.1cfm at 90psi.

Compare that to the Dewalt your looking at:
6 gal.
.9hp oil free pump
2.6cfm at 90psi.

The cost of each reflects quality and performance to an extent.

Something else to consider is duty-cycle, which usually goes unmentioned.
My Rolair is designed for continuous duty.
Im guessing the Dewalt is probably 50% duty cycle?

I also use a gasoline Rolair wheelbarrow compressor.
Its impressive for its size.
I think it'll put out like 9cfm. but its only 9 gal.

 

[ddc9999]

More volume doesnt always equal more CFM.

I have a Rolair FC2002 4.3 gal.
It has a 2HP oil lubricated pump running at 3400 rpm.
This provides 4.1cfm at 90psi.

Compare that to the Dewalt your looking at:
6 gal.
.9hp oil free pump
2.6cfm at 90psi.

The cost of each reflects quality and performance to an extent.

Something else to consider is duty-cycle, which usually goes unmentioned.
My Rolair is designed for continuous duty.
Im guessing the Dewalt is probably 50% duty cycle?

I also use a gasoline Rolair wheelbarrow compressor.
Its impressive for its size.
I think it'll put out like 9cfm. but its only 9 gal.

Yea I hear you. The one I linked definitely isn’t right for what I was looking for. That is gonna work with high gauge nails only.

Does the Rolair FC2002 4.3 gal that you mentioned work well with an air hammer? I’d imagine with its virtually continuous use ability from the beefier motor that the low volume doesn’t matter as much so long as the noise of it running often doesn’t bother you which for me I wouldn’t. It’s a bit heavy at 60 lbs to be portable (thinking about carrying it up stairs), but it is still doable if I need to which I like about it.


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[TRWham]

Saw the Makita MAC5200 for $300 at THD yesterday. Looks like a good option for a semi-portable (luggable at 107 pounds).

 

[GeoBruin]

Remember that even the puniest compressor makes much higher than the rated CFM until the tank pressure drops below the regulated pressure. In other words, even if you just had an air tank with a regulator but no motor or pump and it was full to 150 psi, you could run your air hammer no problem at 90 psi until the tank pressure dropped below 90 psi.

I say this because it's going to be really difficult to find a small compressor where the actual pump is capable of keeping up with the demand of the tool (10 cfm?) but if you are willing to wait for the tank to fill between hammering, nearly any compressor should run your hammer for short bursts. A larger tank will of course extend the time before the tank pressure drops below the regulated pressure.

 

[ddc9999]

Remember that even the puniest compressor makes much higher than the rated CFM until the tank pressure drops below the regulated pressure. In other words, even if you just had an air tank with a regulator but no motor or pump and it was full to 150 psi, you could run your air hammer no problem at 90 psi until the tank pressure dropped below 90 psi.

I say this because it's going to be really difficult to find a small compressor where the actual pump is capable of keeping up with the demand of the tool (10 cfm?) but if you are willing to wait for the tank to fill between hammering, nearly any compressor should run your hammer for short bursts. A larger tank will of course extend the time before the tank pressure drops below the regulated pressure.

I understand all that and the physics of it honestly.

I’m just trying to find out how long those short bursts of on time would be for an air hammer. Or more specifically, specs on a compressor that will give me the time needed to take off a rusted rotor or suspension joint while only having to pause enough times that I’m spending say 20 minutes of total time to remove a component). Probably would mean being able to whack away in small controlled bursts for around 20-30 seconds at a time at least. Possibly even less time. Those with air hammer experience will know better than me.


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[skernv99]

I tried searching but it’s such a niche question I had no luck.

I don’t have an air compressor and have all battery powered tools really. Unfortunately, I’d love an air hammer as there is no real battery powered equivalent without getting a massive SDS style drill. Air compressor would also be handy for other things as I don’t have any nail guns, plus just to use instead of having to buy air cans all the time for cleaning ****.

I will only be using the air hammer occasionally to remove stubborn **** on a car. This isn’t for daily shop use, it won’t get used often. Can a 6 gallon pancake compressor run an air hammer long enough to knock **** loose? Thinking stuck rotors, suspension parts, stubborn snap rings, etc. It’s ok if it has to refill now and again as I doubt I’d have to beat on something for twenty minutes straight with one. It’d also be nice if I could use the Big Nasty air hammer with it but I hear it devours air.


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I am in the same boat as you. I don’t have the room nor electrical wiring configuration in my garage electrical outlet to handle a big compressor so I bought the Husky “quiet” portable 4.5 gallon compressor to use to fill tires and blow compressed air to clean my lawn and garden equipment. I think it’s rated at 3.0 SCFM at 90 psi. Just bought a like new Snapon air hammer to use after seeing a YouTube video of someone using one of those pancake compressors with an air hammer to break up tile in a home renovation. Typical 6 gallon pancake compressor. The tool worked fine for what the guy was using it for and he was able to chip away and break up tile without issues.

From the videos I have seen, I never see someone using an air hammer for vehicle repair for long bursts at a time. It’s always short bursts and if the air hammer is of good quality build , it will loosen whatever you need loosened up in a fair short amount of time.

 

[ddc9999]

I am in the same boat as you. I don’t have the room nor electrical wiring configuration in my garage electrical outlet to handle a big compressor so I bought the Husky “quiet” portable 4.5 gallon compressor to use to fill tires and blow compressed air to clean my lawn and garden equipment. I think it’s rated at 3.0 SCFM at 90 psi. Just bought a like new Snapon air hammer to use after seeing a YouTube video of someone using one of those pancake compressors with an air hammer to break up tile in a home renovation. Typical 6 gallon pancake compressor. The tool worked fine for what the guy was using it for and he was able to chip away and break up tile without issues.



From the videos I have seen, I never see someone using an air hammer for vehicle repair for long bursts at a time. It’s always short bursts and if the air hammer is of good quality build , it will loosen whatever you need loosened up in a fair short amount of time.

Thanks for the feedback. I’d love to hear how your air hammer actually works with the compressor you have whenever you get the chance.


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[GeoBruin]

I understand all that and the physics of it honestly.

I’m just trying to find out how long those short bursts of on time would be for an air hammer. Or more specifically, specs on a compressor that will give me the time needed to take off a rusted rotor or suspension joint while only having to pause say three or four times max. Probably would mean being able to whack away in small controlled bursts for around 20-30 seconds at a time at least. Possibly even less time. Those with air hammer experience will know better than me.


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If you understand the physics, let's use some math.

Assume your pancake compressor can store about 1 cubic foot of air at atmospheric pressure (15ish psi). But you can compress the air to about 10 times atmospheric pressure (150 psi). That means you can store 10 times that volume of air in the tank (10 cubic feet) thanks to Boyle's Law.

Once you pull the trigger on your air hammer, you start consuming air at a rate of 10 cubic feet per minute. The question is how long do you have until the tank pressure drops below the regulator pressure and is no longer able to deliver air at 90 psi?

We calculated that the tank will hold 10 cubic feet of (atmospheric pressure) air at 150 psi. We can use the same math to see that the tank will hold only 6 cubic feet of (atmospheric pressure) air at 90 psi. That's a difference of 4 cubic feet. So if your tool is using 10 cubic feet per minute, it will take .4 minutes (24 seconds) for the tank pressure to drop to 90 psi.

Now realistically, your compressor will probably kick on at some point higher than 90 psi. Let's say that's 100 psi. So if your compressor is making 2.5 cfm at 90 psi we can approximate that it will reduce the effective rate of tank drain by 1/4 once it kicks on. So instead of using 10 cfm for 24 seconds, your use will be 10 cfm for 20 seconds, and then 7.5 cfm for an additional 5.34 seconds. In short, you'll get just over 25 seconds of full output.

You can adjust the pressure switch to make it kick on at an even higher pressure so it will start refilling sooner. Let's say you adjust it to kick on at 120 psi. Now you're draining the first 2 cubic feet of the tank at 10 cfm (12 seconds) and the remaining 2 cubic feet at an effective rate of 7.5 cfm (16 seconds). We're up to 28 seconds.

You can of course swap out these numbers with actual figures based on your choice of compressor to get revised estimates.

A final word of caution: pancake style compressors usually come with cheap regulators that have 1/4" npt fittings. If you add any kind of filter, an air hose, and a quick disconnect or other fittings, you're going to be restricting your flow such that you will need to crank up the pressure at the regulator to compensate. This will change the math above (and not in your favor).

Cheers!

 

[toddmorr]

Saw the Makita MAC5200 for $300 at THD yesterday. Looks like a good option for a semi-portable (luggable at 107 pounds).

a makita 5200 for 300 new is a good deal, very reliable and capable machine

 

[Citation]

Just a few thoughts.
1. Tank size and pressure do matter. Don't think of a 150 psi tank as having 50% more air than a 100 psi tank (not that 100 psi tanks are common). Think of it as 6x as much usable air. I figure air under 90 psi isn't much good so you really want to think about psi*volume above 90. So in my example, I have only 10 psi over 90 vs 60 psi over 90. That means about 6x the air for the same size tank (this is a rule of thumb and ignores some rules of thermodynamics).

2. If you are doing one big burst then stored air volume is more important than pump flow rate. A 4cfm pump with less stored air (volume*pressure) is better than a slow pump with more stored air. My Emglo roofing compressor is 4 gallons and 4 cfm. The faster pump means faster refreshes and it can get out of the "under 90 psi" range faster/with a shorter pause.

Since you are specifically looking for a high flow tool and a small compressor I would look for about the highest CFM you can get in something small. I think some of the oil free portables are over 5 CFM. The Makita is nice but I think I would get an oil free model over it for this exact application. My guess is this is not a day in and day out use. Thus the longer life of an oil lubed pump doesn't get you much. The flip side is the lighter weight and frequently higher flow rate of an oil free pump is useful here. Some will claim oil free is louder but anymore that is a pump specific thing. Both types can be loud or quiet depending on the design of the whole compressor.

 

[Shiftless]

GeoBruin posted how it works. Thanks!

I suppose somebody could use the little pancake compressor to fill a big air tank which would give a fairly long run time for a high flow tool like an air hammer.
If you only needed 30 seconds or a minute of 90psi air that could work but you’d have to wait a really long time for it to refill. But for a single short job it would work.
I’m trying to envision a pancake compressor filling an 80 gallon tank up to 125 psi.
Buying a new tank would be quite expensive but if you could find a big compressor with a blown compressor and or motor you might score a good deal.
I wouldn’t do it. Just buy a big compressor that works and carry on.

 

[KnurledNut]

I’m trying to envision a pancake compressor filling an 80 gallon tank up to 125 psi.

Duty Cycle left the chat.

 

[Shiftless]

Duty Cycle left the chat.

Ha ha
Gotta be maybe 1-2 %

 

[timchin1]

I just realized the CFM of the compressor I linked it too low. I saw you need like 4 CFM for an air hammer, and want 6+ CFM ideally. With the makita compressor you have, do you find the gallon size of it limiting? Sounds like no in which case I can stick to a smaller size compressor 5-8 gallon so long as the CFM’s are on point. Don’t know anything about the SNAP ON hammer you have, I guess you’d say it’s plenty strong enough for needs up to a SUV? I can’t afford snap on, but I’m just trying to benchmark what I need if that makes sense.

No, for the purpose of air hammering suspension parts it works fine. The air hammer hits hard and breaks rusted parts loose fairly easy. I have not had an issue where i had to continuously wait for it to charge back up. 20-30 second bursts are no problem for the mac5200. For the many cars i've worked on at home, i've never felt i needed a larger compressor. I did attempt to use my IR22235 1/2" impact wrench and it was a no-go, super weak. But, like i said, I switched all my ratchets and Impacts to Milwaukee m12/m18.

 

[Mr_B]

I've used 10 gallon before with a decent 401 and it totally usable within sensible use scenarios.
use 3/8 hose at shorter lengths when can and minimal fittings and you can have good dynamic pressures at your tools for run times long enough be useful .
Good air hammers can be game changer in time and jobs that you can actually accomplish .
It would be a ****** day in my autoshop if no air hammers ...
As long you got fairly decent cfm and preferably 145psi minimum tank pressure you get good enough results .
avoid the 125psi compressors .