Portable / Mobile Drill Press - Rapidrill

[CooperS7777]

I've got a dock project coming up that is going to involve bolting some aluminum c-channel perpendicular between a couple of i-beams. The bolts will run through the lower flange of the i-beam and the lower flange of the c-channel, with the web of the c-channel perpendicular to the web of the i-beam. The i-beams are already installed, therefore both c-channel and the i-beam must be drilled and bolted on site. To add to the complexity, the I-beams extend out over the body of water.

My initial plan was to use a couple of kant clamps to secure the c-channel between the two i-beams, and drill through the i-beam and c-channel from the bottom. I have been considering how I could setup something similar to a portable drill press which would allow me to drill squarely through the i-beams and c-channel, when I stumbled across the rapidrill ( https://www.trick-tools.com/15001-Rapidrill-SLIM-Mobile-Drill-Press-14342 ). I feel as though this would be the perfect solution for this project, however, it doesn't appear to be available anywhere. I have reached out to the mfg, but have not heard back.

Does anyone have a link to a similar product which is currently available, or have any other creative solutions aside careful hand drilling of these holes?

EDIT:

The i-beams in this build are functioning as beams for a "deck" and the c-channel will be functioning as the "joists". When finished, the platform will appear as a deck, with two sets of bunks on it. The entire unit will actually function as a jetski lift, raising and lowering into the water. The I-Beams are cantilevered, so the upper flange will be in tension and the lower flange will be in compression (opposite typical i-beam forces).

The photos attached show what Im currently working with, and what the end goal is.

 

[Jswain]

Buy a little tabletop drill press, remove the table, cut the post to length and flip the base around backwards

You might even be able to just replace the post with a small piece of pipe allowing you to revert it back to a tabletop once the jobs complete

 

[tyyost]

This may be a classic case of over thinking a project. A good drill, center punch and some sharp bits will be your friend. The clamping is a good good plan, I’d also grab a nice 6-8” try square to clamp beside the area drilled to give you a visual reference for square.

If you are looking for more precise I’d consider measuring and drilling the channel “on the floor” but it also sounds like that the site may be problematic for that. There are also steel drill guides to keep you square to the work but your materials may make them impossible to use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061FY004/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rsanter]

How big of a hole are we talking here?

 

[TurnipTruck]

If your existing I beams are steel, rent a magnetic base drill. If the I beams are aluminum, clamp a steel plate and stick to that.
Are you absolutely sure you should drill the flanges? Angle brackets bolted to both webs are far less likely to weaken the beams.

 

[jrsavoie]

If drilling an Ibeam you might want some beam washers for bolting.

 

[CooperS7777]

How big of a hole are we talking here?

If your existing I beams are steel, rent a magnetic base drill. If the I beams are aluminum, clamp a steel plate and stick to that.
Are you absolutely sure you should drill the flanges? Angle brackets bolted to both webs are far less likely to weaken the beams.

It would actually be 8 holes along the bottom flange of an each of the 84" i-beams, one hole to attach each piece of c-channel; likely 3/8".

The holes drilled in the flange will be filled with the 3/8" bolt, and should not compromise the integrity of the i-beam (IIRC!?) I did modify the original post to indicate that the i-beams are actually cantilevered, so the upper flange is in tension and the lower flange will be in compression.

 

[CooperS7777]

Edited the original post with an overall view of the project, but in a nut shell:

The "frame" I am trying to build will serve as the joists and beams for a "deck". This "deck" will actually be a dual jetski lift.

 

[Iron Beaver]

Maybe look into a rotary or hydraulic punch? Not sure how that would work out for you but I have a rotary punch and am thrilled with it. Also no need for a magnetic substrate.

 

[nadogail]

Mag Base Drills were invented to make this problem go away.

I agree with, and have done, jury rigging the cheapest Harbor Freight drill press to get you through this problem.

Once I bought one, and replaced the driven pulley and we laughed as the "Ultra Light" drill press saved the job of repairing the expensive parts of an engine.

 

[quickfarms]

3/8” holes in aluminum

I would leave the mag drill at the shop and bring the cordless drill and the cordless right angle drill

I would also get some short drill bits and possibly a transfer punch
it is easier to drill down than up

the only real modification I would make it to tether my tools so they don’t go swimming

 

[Walkers]

Mag drill with annular cutter, or if you want old school but still very effective get yourself a Cole Drill.