I went through all the effort of finding a photo of the model number on a heater we had on a jobsite to post the model number, and it turns out it's a discontinued heater... anyway.
We had a heater on a jobsite that was 9.5KW. It was basically a furnace on wheels. (Google search "TBX104 heater" if you want to see it).
It came factory equiped with a 6-50 cord end. We had to replace it because someone cut it off. The replacement melted. Turns out it was drawing more than 40 amps (what the name plate said it would).
That heater that you linked would work. As others have said, it's going to need a lot of power. You won't he using a straight blade plug on that. The biggest straight blade they make is a 14-60 receptacle. The heater you linked would be 63A +/- which will exceed that receptacle.
This brings us to the wonderful world of Pin and Sleeve or Cam-Lock devices. I would use a Pin and Sleeve receptacle and cord cap if you don't want to hardwire it (although it says to hardwire it, you can absolutely put a plug on it).
I would use minimum #4 three conductor SOOW or type W cable (I'll have to double check the ampacity rating).
If you can live with it hard wired, it will be cheaper. You're gonna be looking at probably (at least) 500$ for pin and sleeve receptacle and cord end. Plus probably another 3-400 for cable. Plus a box for the receptacle.
Edit to add:
Here are links to some parts that would work.
4/3 Type W cable
100 amp 250 volt pin and sleeve receptacle
100 amp 250 volt pin and sleeve plug
100 amp pin and sleeve receptacle box
I would install a disconnect switch before the receptacle. This way, the power is off before you plug or unplug the heater.
*** I would NOT suggest just buying this stuff online! Shop around for cheaper places to buy these. I have a wholesaler in the city I am in that sells so many, they are half the price of everywhere else.***
There are a few other parts I would use to wire this, like a good strain relief connector with wire mesh on the heater end to prevent strain on the cable.
One of these is what I am talking about.
I have not used the cooper brand pin and sleeve connectors, but their catalog states you can use wire mesh strain reliefs on their plugs. This would be a good idea to lengthen the life of the cord.
Now for the disclaimer.
DISCLAIMER: Where I am this would require a permit for the installation of the disconnect switch and the receptacle, and the inspector would want to see a "Field Inspection" done on the heater with the cord, due to the instructions stating it needs to be hardwired. This field inspection is an inspection done for anything that is custom built. You apply for an inspection of the equipment, and if it passes inspection, the place a serialized sticker on the item to prove that it meets or exceeds code. Where I am these are 2 different things, costing totally different prices. I legally cannot tell you not to skip this, but that is up to you. I'm not sure what the codes and rules are where you are, but these are the rules where I am.
I hope this helps you.
