Post/Frame (finishing the inside)

[R_Willis]

If you plan to finish the inside and wire, is post/frame NOT the way to go?!

What is the best way to wire the inside? I presume your not allowed to drill through the 4x6 or 6x6 posts?

I've been considering post/frame for my project to help save on foundation costs and make the building aspect more simple for my father and I.

Any comments?!

 

[Bender78]

My barn/shop is a timber frame. I built it that way because I love the way they look; they have a lot more character than a stick built structure and I believe it can be built for less cost as well if you are building it yourself.

They are a bit more challenging to install interior finish; I built stud walls for insulation and OSB between the timbers and ran the electrical in conduit.

 

[Possum]

There are different ways of framing depending on what you want. You could use what some might call a commercial girt and instead of nailing the horizontal 2xs face flat on the outside of the post, you put a 2x6 (same width as the post) horizontally in between the posts on 2' centers. This makes for easy finishing with 2' insulation readily available and being the standard sheet width for sheetrock or plywood.

 

[RDW920]

I did pole building, with electrical and finished the inside.
ran conduit underslab to each post (10' spacing) then conduit up to attic space and flex up there. Put in a catwalk to have access as needed.

It helped having retired electrician for neighbor who also has pole building and had good ideas and was willing to help.

ceiling metal was strong enough to hang lights directly w/no backing needed.

good luck

 

[Possum]

Nice example!

 

[R_Willis]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Still leaning towards post/frame for ease of build.....

 

[haugy]

Did a post frame for my shop. I'm about to start finishing it on the inside.

I'll be using 2x6's and doing a traditional framing job like you would a standard wall. This way like someone else said I can add insulation, and it will be flush with the posts for drywall that looks seamless.

As for power running, I'm going to let my professional electrician make that call for codes and safety.

 

[yimbo]

I built a standard pole building putting 2" x 4" girts horizontally around the outside every 2' then put my siding on the outside of the girts. This left me a space between the siding and the 6" x 6" posts to run my wiring. Before I put my siding on I screwed 2" x 4"s on edge horizontally on the inside of the girts so I could run my insulation horizontally and save some lumber by reducing my wall framming. All the wiring and outlets run on top of the same hight girt so I'll know where not to cut in from the outside down the road.

 

[Possum]

Yimbo - I ended up doing the same thing as you except I used a 2x6 inside the post so it is flush with inside edge of posts. That method did make a nice spot to run the wire, but seemed like I was wasting lumber. The 2x6 really stiffened the building up and I feel that the outside 2x4's could have been left off. Any reason why you used the 2x4? Is the inside of your shop finished and did you leave the posts visible?

 

[Daniel Dudley]

It is fine to drill holes, as long as you don't Swiss cheese it. Don't get near the edges, inspectors don't like that, as you might wind up putting a screw in it later.

 

[RDW920]

this is how mine was framed and insulated.
2 x 6 girts flush with walls, R-19 in the walls, then R-40 blown in attic.

 

[yimbo]

Possum, 2 x 4s were the standard size used by most people I talked to and to me the way I did it I think I used less lumber but maybe not. I will have 1 1/2 " of the 6 x 6 on the inside of my building which makes it look more like an old barn.