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post frame in a slope and added skid steer help!

billconner

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I've been moving stakes and strings around and ultimately for entrance I need garage floor around 30" below the existing grade at rear corner of 30 x 36 building. Stick frame and I'd just lay block, perhaps stepped once or twice, and fill. For my preferred post frame option, I don't know if any options besides cutting into slope and leveling pad 4 to 5 feet past wall and building a retaining wall. I'd end up with a kind of walk way between building and retaining wall along 2 sides of garage.

Are there other options? Can't raise slab, already steep driveway from road for a long cold snowy winter climate. Slope up continues for a long ways. Can't get closer to road because of zoning set backs, and slope is typical of whole lot.
 
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wssix99

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I don't know if any options besides cutting into slope and leveling pad 4 to 5 feet past wall and building a retaining wall. I'd end up with a kind of walk way between building and retaining wall along 2 sides of garage.

This is exactly what I would do. You'll want to make sure the flat area at the foot of the retaining wall has allowances to move the water that will nauturally flow from the slope. If your driveway goes downhill, perhaps you can install a simple french drain?
 
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billconner

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Thank you. I can drain to daylight in 20' to 25'.

While I'm not crazy about this leaf catcher, any other solution seems to require a continuous frost protected foundation. At that point, might as well go to stick built. Not counting labor, stick is already less than post frame. It's just the week or two of skid steer and back hoe work that I thought worth avoiding.

A pad 40 x 42 roughly sloping up 30" ought to be possible in a week of amateur skid steer work in coarse sand and nary ever a rock. Will be some roots - about 14 white pines in the 4 to 12" range.
 

mkubic21

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That is exactly what I did. Make sure the french drain (footer drain) is below the bottom of your concrete pad. I took 70' to daylight.
 

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billconner

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Very helpful. Thank you. I thought I would slope away from bottom of 2x8 splash board - where my vendor says grade should be and just 3 1/2 inches below top of slab - about 3" in 5' and put in a crushed stone footer for retaining wall with drain tile (whatever the plastic version is called) in that gravel. Not planning on gutters but may have to to limit water some. Maybe a row of 24 x 24 inch pavers would both protect bottom of siding and facilitate no gutters.

Lots of details yet, and still resist the temptation to go back to familiar stick frame with continuous footing.

I'll have to look into french drains. maybe just dig an extra 4 to 6" and dump in pea gravel on geotextile.
 

PoorUB

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I agree, retaining wall and drain. If you got stick frame you can step the foundation wall up to grade, but you still need drainage.

I have watched some of these drainage guys on YouTube. They all claim they know better that the others, and they all have the huge revelation that water flows down hill! I find them unintentionally funny! Quite entertaining if you have nothing else to do.
 
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billconner

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So what size skid steer and how long will it take a 70 yr old novice to level a post frame pad? Clear area approx 40 x 42, back right corner cut 32 or so inches, front left gets some of the spoils to raise 6 or 8". Should have adjacent space to pile whatever I don't need. 17+ white pine stumps to pull out in the 4 to 12" diameter range.

Should be amusing. Thinking of selling tickets.

PS Based on one local equipment rental firm, a Bobcat S130 looks like it's in the range. $250/day, $750/wk, $230 delivery and pickup. ??
 
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kbs2244

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a week of skid steer work will seem short over the life of the building

and stick built will be easier to work with in the future

I would definitely use gutters

They are easier to direct and
they will avoid the larger problem of wet ground
 
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kbs2244

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hire an experienced skid steer operator

getting a level and flat surface takes practice
 

PoorUB

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I am kinda the pay someone to do it unless you have experience running a skid steer. I could run one for a week straight and still not have the hang of it!
I good operator would probably knock it out in a day or less.
 
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billconner

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kbs- The problem with stick built is the amount of foundation work and a lot more excavation for 48" frost depth, footings, stem walls - all work that requires a crew and I'm trying to do solo. And a SFPF is not simple for unheated building, requires a registered design professional, and cant be deferred like the slab in post frame. So as appealing as stick built is, I'm leaning towards post frame.

k s and Poor - I was looking forward to operating the skid steer. This is a kind of retirement leisure project, and you don't want me playing with the toys. :)

Heard and appreciate the advice and help.
 

Sportsman762

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Pulling stumps with a skidsteer sounds terrible. If you could upgrade to a backhoe I would say you could probably get it done in a weekend plus a day if you don't mind putting in some hours. The upfront rental cost is more, however you will spend days trying to pull stumps with a skidsteer. I dug out two 48" white pine stumps, leveled 120 tons of dirt, and cut out 24" on half of a 40x40 pad. About half of the time was digging the stumps. We also had a utility tractor with a loader, and a compact tractor with a loader. But those did not get much use, as we only had two of us who wanted to operate. I think the backhoe had 12 hours on it when we returned it after the weekend.

I would rent a backhoe for the dirt work. Then I would lay out the building and rent a skidsteer to dig the posts and help set them. I know its another rental, but I believe your over estimating the ability of a skid steer to dig out a stump with just a bucket, even if its a tooth bucket. Backhoes allow you to dig the stump out with the hoe, and then move / level the dirt with the loader. Also their mass lets them dig more into a compacted bank than a skidsteer does.

Oh, ignore the nay sayers about renting a skidsteer, I learned how to run a skidsteer, backhoe, and excavator by renting them for projects. If you enjoy the challenge and are not the type to get frustrated give it a try. Just don't abuse the machine digging stumps, and get the full coverage insurance, as stump digging is hard on equipment.
 

NUTTSGT

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Everyone wants to have fun playing on the big boy toys, I know I do.

That being said, don't rule out calling a few guys to see what they would charge. It sounds like a smaller job, something some guys do in after hours work, on weekends or filler between jobs.
 
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billconner

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At least no rush. three month lead time on post frame package and permit is a ways away, so spring build.

One solo guy with machines is $90/hr. So him for a day or me and machine for a week.

I think I'll dig one stump by hand this week to better understand how much work it is.

Difference here than for many - I can dig very deep and it's all sand. No clay, no stone, just sand. Glaciers deposited it on north side of hill as it dissapated. Part of the Frontenac Arch that links the Adirondacks to Algonquin. Either sand or bedrock at the surface. I have a second piece of land that has a lot of the bedrock at surface, and could build a foundation without any digging.
 
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billconner

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Progress on site. Glad to get stumps out so it "compacts" over winter. Also, moved from post frame (probably) to (probably) conventional 48" deep footer and block stem wall; with stick built building, rafters and ceiling joists and storage attic, all rough sawn.

ps: Well, am failing at attaching photo. Too big?

pss: downloaded 3 apps to resize, third one a charm. wish the bulletin board just did it automatically.
 

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racecougar

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Pulling stumps with a skidsteer sounds terrible. If you could upgrade to a backhoe I would say you could probably get it done in a weekend plus a day if you don't mind putting in some hours. The upfront rental cost is more, however you will spend days trying to pull stumps with a skidsteer. I dug out two 48" white pine stumps, leveled 120 tons of dirt, and cut out 24" on half of a 40x40 pad. About half of the time was digging the stumps. We also had a utility tractor with a loader, and a compact tractor with a loader. But those did not get much use, as we only had two of us who wanted to operate. I think the backhoe had 12 hours on it when we returned it after the weekend.

Pulling stumps with a skidsteer can be a real chore (soil type, tree type, and size playing major factors of course). It's easiest if you leave the tree whole, push it over, then cut it up, as that provides some beneficial leverage.

37915576_10100322475923673_3105469695281594368_n.jpg
 
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billconner

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Thanks racecougar. I got past stumps with a contractor and his sizeable excavator. I may hire him for excavating for footers and stem walls in spring. We'll see. Still need permit.
 
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