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Post frame insulation opinion

3rdgendslmech

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Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
499
Location
Maryland
I know this topic gets beat all to hell but I'm wanting an over-all opinion on what I should do. I tried to do a search of this subject but after a lot of reading and going down a lot of different posts I figured I just start over.
A few months back a friend completed a project and had some extra 2x6 and 7/16 osb leftovers. I ended up being able to insulate about 1/4 of my 24x32 pole barn. I framed out the eave wall cavities 16" on center and used faced R19 insulation. I liked how it turned out and I only ended up having to shell out money for the insulation and a couple pressure treated 2x6 floor plates.
Hopefully next month I'm going to be installing a mini split and I need to finish insulating the walls and put up a ceiling.

I read that a few people used 2x4s for framing, and then used R19 insulation and let it stick out past the studs. They wanted to keep the walls flush with the posts. Framed it out and put the studs up against the girts and used R13 insulation. I priced it out and there's about a $50 difference per 8 foot wall cavity between using 2x6s and R19 and 2x4s and R13.

For those of you that went the 2x4 route did you put the studs up against the girts or have them so you cover up the posts with OSB?
 
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astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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3,001
Location
Mid_Michigan
Put them flush to the posts. And use the R19 insulation, it doesn't care if it sticks past a few inches on the inside. The walls are non structural so save yourself some money.
If you want to, or can afford it, you can lay 1 1/2" foam insulation flat on the girts before studding the wall. Then use the R13 to fill the cavities.
Mark
 
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bluegoose972

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Joined
Apr 24, 2019
Messages
76
Location
Belton, TX
As Astroracer pointed out, these are non-structural walls, so you have options. If your goal is to have a consistent wall faced with OSB, then you can either go with 2x6 construction since that has already been started or install the 2x4s out 2" from the girts since they are non-structural. You can easily install kickers back from 2x4 to the girt for added stability.

Personally, it would depend on how many of these panels your having to do. If it was under 10 remaining, I'd finish with 2x6. If it was over 10 panels (and over $500), then I would anchor my 2x4's to the floor on the correct alignment and install kickers back to the girts periodically and call it a day.
 

NUTTSGT

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Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,124
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Every time you get your electric bill you'll be glad that it's not higher than it would be if you only went with R13.


The extra insulation is an investment that keeps giving you a return on your investment.
 
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