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pour sat.

Dave Maxwell

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OK we are pouring Saturday. I have radiant tubes. Using the 6'x15' wire sheets. Any safety tips on keeping tubing from being punctured? How many chairs per square do I need. Cement contractor has always just tied tube to metal mesh. I am stapling directly to foamboard.
 
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Red Goat

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The pex tubing is very durable. I would only worry if you have any splices in the slab. Keep the pressure test on at 60psi during the pour...it's good piece of mind!

Big day...have fun!
 

boo coo tracks

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Take pictures before you pour, with measure marks! So down the road, when you are drilling to secure some device, you don't have to pray to miss the tubeing.
Tracks
 

wedge40

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I'm sure I could search and find this Dave.. But how thick will the pour be?
If you're laying the mesh on top of the stapled pex, I wouldn't worry to much. How are they going to pour? Direct from the truck or are they bringing a pumper in?

Wedge
 

stingry

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OK we are pouring Saturday. I have radiant tubes. Using the 6'x15' wire sheets. Any safety tips on keeping tubing from being punctured? How many chairs per square do I need. Cement contractor has always just tied tube to metal mesh. I am stapling directly to foamboard.

Just lay the mesh over the PEX, No chairs needed. Pressurize the PEX with air and monitor the pressure while you pour.

Cheers
Steve
 

Highbeam

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Take pictures before you pour, with measure marks! So down the road, when you are drilling to secure some device, you don't have to pray to miss the tubeing.
Tracks

I don't think that it is possible to be that confident. In all cases, you must prey before drilling.

Good luck on the pour. You do not need any chairs, the men will squash them and knock them over anyway and they may pop up into the floor. More harm then good anyways since the mesh is already up on the tubes it will be higher in the slab than most mesh.
 
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Dave Maxwell

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5 inch. Pex stapled directly to foamboard. So them walking on it won't hurt the pex. I won't be theres for the pour. All trucked in. 42x72.
 

gpalmer77

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Mokena IL
All good recommendations here. I recently did mine..... 22x24, Pex tied to the mesh, they lifted the mesh with the notches in their shovels during the pour. Since they pretty much always stood where they could see the Pex (ahead of the pour) they never really got close to the Pex when they lifted the mesh. The foreman constantly reminded them to shovel very slowly, and only long the direction of the tubing runs. I had a pressure test gauge hooked up and watched it like a hawk, a very nervous hawk. Lol. The only close call was the truck dropping its chute right on one of the Pex tubes, but it didn't make a mark.

I also took pictures and measurements of my layout right before the pour. Sure, it might shift a little, but if I know it is 12" apart, and I drill right in the middle..... I figure I'm safe. I already tweaked the layout for bolting down a lift, one interior sill plate, and the column that sits on the thickened area of the slab.
 

wedge40

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Dave it's probably to late, but the cement line pump would have been a nice feature. (Google it and watch the youtube video). My guy said it was going to be an extra $500-$600 dollars for the pump and operator during the whole pour. I'm spending so much already I figure what the heck.


Wedge
 

wedge40

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My barn, (and I assume yours as well) is a complete shell, so getting cement to the back corner was either remove siding, wheelbarrow there, or pump it. I guess they could use a wheelbarrow and lay down some sheet goods to run on.


Since you wont be present I'm guessing we wont see photos of the pour. :mad:
Wedge
 
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ZAPPER68

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Sand Pit
Take pictures before you pour, with measure marks! So down the road, when you are drilling to secure some device, you don't have to pray to miss the tubeing.
Tracks

This is good advice...I took accurate measurements & pictures along the way and had no fear when I installed my 4 post hoist afterwards.

Because of the size of my shop (80x 32) I heat 2 zones...the 'working area / 2 bays' is warmer than the 'storage area / 4 bays'. To ensure the two different temperatures are maintained I embeded 2 thermocouples, one in each side. You might want to consider installing one ? in your case. It takes the guesswork out of adjusting your thermostat.

I had my concrete contractor and plumber on site at the same time to give me advice before the pour.
 
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Dave Maxwell

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What kind of thermo coupler should I get? Do they have specific for in cement? I have a double manifold for paint booth and one for the storage area. The main area has an 8 port one
 

ZAPPER68

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Dave,

Speak to your concrete guy...he will steer you in the right direction. From what I remember there is a specific thermo couple for this application. My concrete guy ran a length of PVC (1" dia) under the rebar...the thermo couple and associated wiring was then inserted into the PVC.

By the way, we just tied the tubing to the rebar / mesh with those special metal ties that have the loops on each end. They are made specifically to tie rebar together. There is a special tool that works like a hot damn to twist them. However, we eventually ran out of the metal ties and I ended up using plastic tie wraps to finish the job.
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Nope pour Saturday thanks to Blue Ridge. The layout showed up 4 days late then find out they make the wrong dimensions. Building is not 83 foot long its 71. Which original knewand had on my drawing. Somehow somebodyelse got involved and screwed it up. Hopefully get poured before too cold.
 

wedge40

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Dave, the above post looks like you're not pouring today? I had the same issue with Blueridge. They did not even look at my instruction and I got a lousy layout and didn't feel like going back and forth to get what I wanted. So I down loaded loopCAD and used it for free to get my layout done the way I wanted it. I know I will never order anything from the again.

I'm in the same boat as you. Concrete guy is almost a month behind schedule. I'm not worried about the cement if it's cold, I'm worried about laying out the pex is cold weather.

Good luck with the pour.

Wedge
 
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Dave Maxwell

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I don't want them to put calcium in my mix because of the cold. Heard bad things about it. I got the loop cad program and redid the room myself
 
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wedge40

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We must have about the same sqft. I've got total of 8 circuits broken into two zones.
My longest is 285 and shortest 272 in one zone and 232, 225 in the second zone.

Like you I'd rather have 50 degree or above to pour, but supposably they pour way below zero without any real issues. If it was just cement, no big deal, but with rebar and pex in the mix, kind of make ya pucker.

Wedge
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Wish my numbers were closer. Moved entry point multiple times to get these. I have two other zones. 42x12 storage and 15x25 paint booth. This is my main work area. Since its all one room. I hope the numbers are ok
 

wedge40

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I had to manual play with a couple of my loops to get it the way I wanted. As expensive as loopCAD is you'd think it would know to come with 10% of each other. I've thought about purchasing the product and offering to layout barns and such for people for a small fee. Once I got the program figured out I kind of enjoyed using it.

I went back and re-read your build thread. You have a huge barn there. Mines bigger then I'll ever need. (I hope) The only way my requirements will change is if I win the lottery, then I'll just build a second one. LOL

Good luck with the pour.
If you get time post a few pics of your pex layout too.

Wedge
 

tdkkart

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The cold really isn't an issue in the temps we've had so far, the cement makes plenty of heat curing to keep from freezing. I think the bigger issue at these temps is that the humidity is low so the water dries out faster, but the plastic we put under our pours keeps the water in too so it's closer to a wash.

I wouldn't get my shorts all in a knot over a 10% difference in loop length, that's what the flow controls are there for, they're not just there for decoration.
If it gets bad you can always jump up one pump size and throttle back the shorter loops.
I doubt mine are all that close, I didn't use any fancy program, and ran all the loop in/outs to one corner of the building, so they gotta be off a bit. I run my loops wide open and all the loops flow equally.
 
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Dave Maxwell

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2012-11-24_13-17-44_752.jpg
 

wedge40

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Nice. Cant to hear how the putting down the pex goes. You're in about the same temp zone as me. Have you rescheduled the pour or are you going to wait till you have the pex done?

Looking at your layout, it looks like you did the same thing I did. I want my manifolds in one corner so you add extra length getting to and from that corner.

Wedge
 

joes169

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It's going to cost a little more, no doubt, but the ready mix supplier undoubtedly has a non-chloride accelerator that will work just as well, w/o any of the concerns of reaction with the steel. You could let them use a small amount of calcium as well, like .5%, and make the rest up in non-chloride accelerant.........
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Pouring. In the morning. 15 hours sat and 12 Sunday to get it ready. Found out that if you want to lay lines down on foamboard. Don't put it label side up. Lol ***** big time.
 

wedge40

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Why shouldn't you put the label side up?

Good luck with the pour today.

I "MIGHT" have cement next week. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.

Wedge
 
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matouse3

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Pouring. In the morning. 15 hours sat and 12 Sunday to get it ready. Found out that if you want to lay lines down on foamboard. Don't put it label side up. Lol ***** big time.

Ha. Thats funny, I did the same thing and wondered why I was such an idiot when I was trying to chalk lines and couldn't see sheit.

Hope all is going well!
 

tmars

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Central Illinois
Good luck with your pour. I did the same, stapled to foam then laid mesh over the top. Had 5 inches of concrete and sawn lines. I only have 1200 sq ft one zone 1200ft pex. heat is working like a charm. Im only like 30 mile from you. this weather has been great for you....
 
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