I am getting closer to getting my building started, an option I am leaning towards is full poured walls, the guy I know that does them did my basement for a reasonable price, if I could have put a metal roof on the basement walls I'd a been happy to have it as a shop, so I asked him to come out and pour some more, aslo due to the fact my land is hilly I can have it built into the hill side, I have 2 proposals I sent him and am waiting for the quote, does anyone see something I'm missing or something that i should consider before building this very permanant structure, I am desiring high security and storm resistance, as long as I insulate the outter walls below the dirt level I am told the inside shouldn't sweat too much, I am using form a drain around the inside and outside of the footer to keep everything dry as well, as well as tile just below the dirt line around the premiter as well as sloping the dirt away from the walls for water to travel around the structure and continue down the hill. also i changed the height to 14' it was noted as 12' in my drawing.
Poured concrete building
- Thread starter ryan77
- Start date
j p smith
Well-known member
Check out "The Concrete Underground" build by LLWILLYSFAN
It is an awesome build using concrete, be prepared to spend some time reading through it
It is an awesome build using concrete, be prepared to spend some time reading through it
David C
Well-known member
If your drawing is just a sketch that you intend to fully develop into working drawings then OK, it is just conceptual, and is intended for discussion purposes only.
However if you are hiring a contractor to do this and he provides the design as he goes along then maybe you could have some major problems. The following is an example of what can happen:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241791
I realize that you will install a roof covering and supporting structure but if the roof structure is not adequate to brace those walls you could end up with a problem like Mr. Tempest did. Not the same problem but one as difficult to repair.
Without going into design of concrete buildings the concrete walls need to be braced at the top with a roof diaphragm to withstand the out of plane wall forces from the retained soil, wind forces, and seismic forces if applicable in your area. The 64' wall is to long to be braced by perpendicular walls.
Regardless of any advice to the contrary, including that of your selected contractor, have the building designed by a structural engineer. The design should show the concrete foundation and walls including steel reinforcing. The roof framing design should include attachments of roof structure to walls, on all four sides of the bldg. You probably should include some expansion joints in the walls. Don't proceed without this design.
In the front, entrance, elevation, you have short concrete wall piers and these may need additional reinforcing, beyond the typical wall reinforcing. If your main roof framing members, those that brace the walls against out of plane forces, are spaced at more than 2' to 4' OC you may need in wall columns that include additional reinforcing.
It is generally accepted that it is better to preclude ground water from getting to the exterior of any buried concrete or CMU walls than it is to coat the inside of the walls. Seal buried walls from the outside of the building and provide a better than adequate drainage system. You might research Miradrain products. Use filter fabric and drain rock on the buried side of the walls.
If you intend to break up this space with partitions you might want to research local codes for exiting as you have only the one exit.
However if you are hiring a contractor to do this and he provides the design as he goes along then maybe you could have some major problems. The following is an example of what can happen:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241791
I realize that you will install a roof covering and supporting structure but if the roof structure is not adequate to brace those walls you could end up with a problem like Mr. Tempest did. Not the same problem but one as difficult to repair.
Without going into design of concrete buildings the concrete walls need to be braced at the top with a roof diaphragm to withstand the out of plane wall forces from the retained soil, wind forces, and seismic forces if applicable in your area. The 64' wall is to long to be braced by perpendicular walls.
Regardless of any advice to the contrary, including that of your selected contractor, have the building designed by a structural engineer. The design should show the concrete foundation and walls including steel reinforcing. The roof framing design should include attachments of roof structure to walls, on all four sides of the bldg. You probably should include some expansion joints in the walls. Don't proceed without this design.
In the front, entrance, elevation, you have short concrete wall piers and these may need additional reinforcing, beyond the typical wall reinforcing. If your main roof framing members, those that brace the walls against out of plane forces, are spaced at more than 2' to 4' OC you may need in wall columns that include additional reinforcing.
It is generally accepted that it is better to preclude ground water from getting to the exterior of any buried concrete or CMU walls than it is to coat the inside of the walls. Seal buried walls from the outside of the building and provide a better than adequate drainage system. You might research Miradrain products. Use filter fabric and drain rock on the buried side of the walls.
If you intend to break up this space with partitions you might want to research local codes for exiting as you have only the one exit.
Architorture
Well-known member
how does your 12' tall door fit into a 12' tall wall?
edit: nevermind...i see it should be 14'....so how thick will the 2' deep beam over the 16' span be? concrete beams are a little trickier than steel because you have to take their own weight into account in the design.
edit: nevermind...i see it should be 14'....so how thick will the 2' deep beam over the 16' span be? concrete beams are a little trickier than steel because you have to take their own weight into account in the design.
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Throbbin Rods
Well-known member
Plus one on the pilasters
wssix99
Well-known member
I highly recommend this - particularly if you are going to heat/cool the space. My wife (yes, you are reading that correctly) just built me an entire tall house made of ICF:
We're almost to November and haven't turned on the heat yet. The walls hold on to heat like you wouldn't believe!
You don't need pilasters. My walls are 14' and are plenty strong. All that is needed is more reinforcement in the concrete. (I have 8" walls due to all the loads above them, but 6" would have done the job also.)
I'd suggest insulating the exterior with foam all the way around and doing inside and outside if you'll condition the space.
We're almost to November and haven't turned on the heat yet. The walls hold on to heat like you wouldn't believe!
You don't need pilasters. My walls are 14' and are plenty strong. All that is needed is more reinforcement in the concrete. (I have 8" walls due to all the loads above them, but 6" would have done the job also.)
I'd suggest insulating the exterior with foam all the way around and doing inside and outside if you'll condition the space.