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Pouring Concrete Floor

camaron32

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Feb 8, 2010
Messages
74
I want to pour a concrete slab foundation for my shed in the backyard, and I've never done it before. I'll look around the forum, but I'm looking for information about how to do it, tips from people that have done it, and information like how thick should the slab be. I would like to build in a ramp so that I could be able to drive my riding lawn mower in. Any elp would be appreciated. thanks.:)
 
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royale5

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Sep 3, 2009
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20
Location
Allentown, PA
A few basics for you:

Thickness should be 4".
Be sure to put a few inches of stone 3-4" down as a base
Use wire mesh to reinforce the concrete

Make sure your formwork is solid, level & square.

Finishing the concrete is hard to explain in writing. Get a good straightedge to use as a screed. Bullfloat the surface after you screed it off, right when it starts to stiffen up you can start troweling to give it an overall smooth finish.

Do some research, try to find some youtube videos to watch the process.
 

AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
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Location
Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
Before you do anything carefully examine the lay of the land where you want to build. You want to determine where the water flows, and collects, during rains. Use a hose if you have to. Some forethought now can save you a bunch of grief later.

Depending on the soil conditions, size, drainage etc. you might want to rent a compactor to get the ground psi up to 4k or so.

If you have any closet skeletons, use this opportunity to get them out of the house and bury them where they'll never be found.

The wire mesh, or rebar if you go that route, needs to be above the base material, so it's positioned in the middle of the slab, not underneath it. You can buy "dobbies," usually small concrete blocks, to do the trick by supporting the mesh 1" - 2" above the gravel bed.

Wipe a little diesel on the forms to help them release easier.

Now's a good time to hit the phone and call in any favors you may be due, you really want the help of someone who's done this before.

Might as well go all the way and put down an epoxy coating. For that put down a "light broom finish", which is exactly what it sounds like. It's also easier to achieve than a smooth as glass finish when you're doing the pour. Go for the light broom texture, and let the epoxy get you that final glass smooth floor.
 

MG David

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Apr 14, 2009
Messages
192
Location
Warwick UK
For a storage shed would you bother with a damp proof membrain? Does the epoxy coating limit the damp coming out the top of the slab?
 

mobetta

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Feb 10, 2010
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370
Location
twin cities, mn
where are you? big temperature swings from winter to fall? how large of slab? what is going in the shed- a rider going to be the biggest load?

for a shed, especially 150sf or less, I would not add any steel mesh to it, just do a 4" slab w/ 8" deep footers all around it, 2 pc of #4 rebar in the footer. (google floating slab) maybe one control cut, depending on the size, can be done the next day w/ an angle grinder, diamond blade and straight edge.

a broom finish is easy for a DIY, and should be fine in a shed. polished is trickier.
if you have too much money, send it to me instead of wasting it on un-needed reinforcing and epoxy finishes. unless that is your thing... but it seems a waste to me.

if its a real wet area, poly under it wouldn't hurt. it can make the slab dry to the top more and possibly curl, so if you go that route keep the slab top damp(spray it daily and tarp it) for a week or so to slow dring. also may help w/ cracks.

these are just opinions.....
 
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PassnThru

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Jan 5, 2010
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Location
Bowling Green KY
If you have any closet skeletons, use this opportunity to get them out of the house and bury them where they'll never be found.

Ahhh - I think I see the reason for your preoccupation with concrete now. Is the sealer an extra guard against the cadaver sniffing dogs??????
 

AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
Messages
1,298
Location
Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
For a storage shed would you bother with a damp proof membrain? Does the epoxy coating limit the damp coming out the top of the slab?

It can. A good epoxy will provide a level of moisture barrier, of course if there's more pressure than the coating can tolerate it can lead to coating failure. Different coatings have different limitations.

Ahhh - I think I see the reason for your preoccupation with concrete now. Is the sealer an extra guard against the cadaver sniffing dogs??????

Yes.
 
Last edited:

Snap50

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
145
Location
New England
Use a float finish, not broom. Most garages are floated. You need to buy a float tool to do it.
Be sure to put a vapor barrier, sheet of heavy plastic under the slab to deter moisture.
It will take longer to set up for finishing, but you won't have a damP floor to rust everything.
It isw preffered to attack moisture from the damp side rather than applying a coating atop the slab. Surface finished can easily be lifted by moisture from below. Think about it, pushing a membrane into a slab takes no effort on the part of the sheeting but resisting the action of pushing the coating off the concrete is difficult.
 
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camaron32

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Feb 8, 2010
Messages
74
I live in Minnesota so the concrete would have to contend with snow. The ground is somewhat sandy and slopes upward nearby at a 45 degree angle for 3 feet or so. The two heaviest items in the shed would be the riding lawnmower and my motorcycle during the winter. I want the base to be raised above the level of the ground to make it easier for me to weedwhack around. From what I've read the hardest part about this will be in mixing the concrete properly. I'll only need about 2 cubic yards, but I still might go to a concrete company to supply it. For the cost it might be worth it in the long run.
 
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