Pouring footings and stem wall during winter

[Mark100]

Hello,

I am getting quotes to build a stick frame detached garage 28'w by 36'd. Due to the grading of my lot I will need to build one corner into a hill with about a 4' grade in the back corner. I will need either 6 courses of block or a poured half-wall to compensate for this. A couple of concrete contractors I talked with suggested pouring the footings and wall or block soon. I am in south-east Michigan and right now the night temps are below freezing. Is this common practice to pour during cold temps? Could there be any negative side-effects from the cold temps and pouring concrete?
I am not in a hurry, I plan on starting the framing in the spring. I also don't want a spring build to turn into a fall build.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[JamesW84]

Not an expert, and I got lucky that mine was poured on a nice 70 degree day. However, I do know that concrete is poured when it's cold. I think they have additives they can put in it, and blankets to cover it to keep it warm.

I wouldn't get in a hurry either, but what if it's really rainy/muddy this spring. Spring is when everyone starts building, so you'd have to get in line.

 

[Kaizen]

It can be done but I’d wait and see if you can schedule in spring. Chances are these bids are already booked then though. Personally I’d do a solid pour so there is less potential issues with all those block joints. Block I have see done in winter is kept in a heated enclosure till it cured.
Concrete will be more per yard as they will need hot water and additives. Be patient and wait. Hell I’m on my third year building mine


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[larry4406]

New construction guy here but from Northern VA so less harsh climate than you.

We build year round here. However, we do not pour any concrete unless the temperatures are 36F and above projected for the next 48 hours. We do use plant mix additives for a faster set, no calcium chloride additives permitted on site into the mixer (like they used to do....). We also use special blankets as was mentioned.

Also - I am not a block wall fan. I prefer poured walls.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am in south-east Michigan and right now the night temps are below freezing. Is this common practice to pour during cold temps? Could there be any negative side-effects from the cold temps and pouring concrete?

Curing concrete is exothermic (give off heat). The water does not "dry", it chemically reacts with the cement and changes the actual chemical makeup. Cold weather kill the reaction before this can complete (experts will tell you it takes 28 days for concrete to cure 100%) and so the concrete will have "dry" spots that are not as strong.

There are chemicals you can add, if the temps are going to be below freezing, but it will cost you more.

If you are building into a hill, you will need drain tile and good waterproofing on that side or you will always have water intrusion issues.

 

[JamesW84]

Curing concrete is exothermic (give off heat).

If you are building into a hill, you will need drain tile and good waterproofing on that side or you will always have water intrusion issues.

I built in the side of a hill...it drops about 6 ft over 120 ft.

What I did was dig out an extra 15 ft on the side and about 25-30 ft in back so I could slope the ground away and not have soil touching my foundation (like a basement).

 

[ConCretin]

We place concrete year round up here in Maine. It's doable but there are additional costs involved.

The most important goal is to prevent the concrete from freezing until it has achieved adequate strength (500 psi) to resist damage. Failure to do so is catastrophic. Secondarily, you need to maintain a concrete temperature that permits the concrete to gain enough strength for construction to continue, which is typically 55 degrees for 3 days.

For moderately freezing temps, you can retain the heat of hydration by covering forms with an insulating material such as hay of blankets. Accelerating admixtures will increase the heat produced buying you a few more degrees. Below a certain point however you'll need to build enclosures and provide an external heat source. Weather conditions, the mass of the concrete and experience will determine how much is required.

Traditional curing i.e. maintaining the concrete in a moist condition for a period ranging from 7 to 28 days isn't applicable to cold weather conditions. Premature drying is the least of your problems when its 10 degrees out.

One other thing to consider is that you need to keep the ground under your foundation and future slab from freezing while you build.

Winter concrete isn't for the inexperienced but it's done all the time. If it's worth the added costs and your concrete guys seems to know what he's talking about, proceed as planned. I would however get your self a little probe thermometer and monitor the concrete temp to make sure you are getting what you pay for. Good luck with your project.

 

[matt_i]

If you build the concrete forms with ICF you have the perfect insulator right there.

It is of course more costly to buy the blocks, ties, but you can do all of the work yourself rather than relying on a contractor.

You did mention building into a earthen slope, I would take all precautions to waterproof it and drain any infiltration just like a basement wall.

 

[brownbagg]

if the concrete plant is open then you can pour,they know everything about cold weather concrete

 

[jkeyser14]

My house foundation and basement walls were poured in December with below freezing temps. The conctractor used admixture. That was 3.5 years ago, no cracks or other issues.

 

[Kevin54]

Hello,

I am getting quotes to build a stick frame detached garage 28'w by 36'd. Due to the grading of my lot I will need to build one corner into a hill with about a 4' grade in the back corner. I will need either 6 courses of block or a poured half-wall to compensate for this. A couple of concrete contractors I talked with suggested pouring the footings and wall or block soon. I am in south-east Michigan and right now the night temps are below freezing. Is this common practice to pour during cold temps? Could there be any negative side-effects from the cold temps and pouring concrete?
I am not in a hurry, I plan on starting the framing in the spring. I also don't want a spring build to turn into a fall build.

Thanks,
Mark

They can step your footer up so you won't need a bunch of block. You're in Michigan and get that lake effect ****. Hopefully we get a break in things this winter and you could do it. Myself, I would wait until you know we are going to get some good weather. Maybe March/April time. That will give you time to think everything out more and plan on things you may have overlooked. We're already looking at December, a couple of months will be here before you know it.

 

[PWC Repair]

Check my build out in the link below. I dug in about 4 ft and poured a wall. Sealed, drainage, etc.

 

[Mark100]

I'm not in a hurry and the 4 months will allow me to decide on orientation. I am having a hard time deciding on 28wX36d or 36wX28d or something in between. I am limited to 1017.5sqft.

If I go 36wX28d, I plan on having a 2-post lift bay with a 10' wide door and then an 18' wide door and 2 bays. The 27' interior depth would accommodate my current boat and truck but if I decide to get a longer boat, it might not. Would a 27' depth bay be adequate for a lift and working area? The largest vehicle I plan on having is a crew cab long box.

If I were to go with a 36' deep garage, I only have two bays and some space in the rear for tool boxes etc. This would allow me a larger boat without worry.

My attached garage is 24'deep and I plan to have the daily drivers in there.

 

[Mark100]

Several of the concrete guys that have provided quotes all said that block would be fine and that there might be 5-6 courses in 1 area but that it wouldn't be concerning. Some said they would rebar into the footing and fill the blocks and others didn't mention it.
One guy quoted block on top of 42" footing, rebar to tie it to the footing, block filled, outside sealed, and drain tile around the below grade sides.

The poured wall option is about $3500 (30%) more than the block option.

Has anyone here had problems with a short block wall?