I relocated this summer, and bought a new place. I went from 1050 sq ft, on a 50x120 lot with no garage, to a 1150sq ft house, on a 100x200 lot, with a 24x26 garage with 10' ceilings. The garage is constructed using cinderblock walls, with trusses on top. The biggest problem with the garage is the floor is in rough shape. There used to be a pit in the middle of the one bay, which was filled in, and concrete poured on top. The concrete there is the worst, with the concrete itself pitted 1/2-3/4 pretty much everywhere, with the stones exposed. There is a large "pothole" about 2 inches deep. I'm looking at resurfacing the concrete by pouring a new floor on top. The plan right now is remove the existing floor for the first 4 feet by the garage doors, and just pouring new concrete over the rest of the floor. I just have a couple of questions before I start looking at pricing: Can I put a vapor barrier between the two layers? And what is the minimum depth I can go over top of the old concrete? I don't want to lose too much height, as my man door is only raised about 1" above the current floor.
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Pouring New Concrete Over Old
- Thread starter BigWil
- Start date
p_mori7
Well-known member
In my opinion, "no" on the vapor barrier between layers... and "yes" for pouring over, as long as you prep & use a bonding agent.
How long the new floor stays nice will depend on how stable the existing floor was despite the surface damage it had.
How long the new floor stays nice will depend on how stable the existing floor was despite the surface damage it had.
In my opinion, "no" on the vapor barrier between layers... and "yes" for pouring over, as long as you prep & use a bonding agent.
How long the new floor stays nice will depend on how stable the existing floor was despite the surface damage it had.
I have no idea personally about the floor, but the next door neighbour, who is awesome, said it looks the same as it did for many years. The guy who did the patch job was cheaper than dirt, so my guess is he mixed the concrete too wet to stretch it out.
ConCretin
Well-known member
No reason you can't install a vapor barrier between the two slabs. I'd suggest using a 15 mil product such as Stegowrap, which resists punctures much better than poly.
As long as the existing floor is structurally sound, you could get by with as little as 2". We regularly install 2" overlays over wood framing for radiant heat. I'd probably install wire mesh at mid depth to keep any cracks that telegraph through under control.
As long as the existing floor is structurally sound, you could get by with as little as 2". We regularly install 2" overlays over wood framing for radiant heat. I'd probably install wire mesh at mid depth to keep any cracks that telegraph through under control.
Thanks, LLWillysfan. I should be able to go the 2 inches by putting in some 1/4" plywood between the bottom sill of the exterior door and the new floor. It'll be pretty much level with it, so the plywood would allow for door replacement in the future.