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Power dory build

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VictorBravo

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Asotin County, Washington
Thanks Jazz. It would be nice to get a couple 8 hour days in, but I'm having fun enough at the intermittent pace. I probably spend more time thinking of the next step than doing it.

Plus, I noticed I was a bit more sore than usual this morning. I think it was because I was doing "dips" getting on the bottom of the boat. I think I was up and down around 20 times taking measurements, marking locations, retrieving tools, gluing, etc.
 
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Greeny

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Feb 25, 2013
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Shreveport, LA
I love the boat build and am following along, but the stump on wheels is interesting too. There must be a story behind that? Why did you put wheels on a stump and what does it do?
 
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VictorBravo

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There must be a story behind that? Why did you put wheels on a stump and what does it do?

Not much of a story. I did talk about the stump in this thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262748

Normally I have this rail on it:

rail%20anvil_zps4ye4ueay.jpg


The wheels make it easier to move out of the way when I don't need it.

I still might take some leftover epoxy to it and turn it into a garden coffee table.
 

wyo george

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Nice progress. I've built a few of Jeff's designs over the years. Solid and easy to construct.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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VictorBravo

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Well, it's been three weeks of not getting into the shop. But I had some time today and made progress.

Finished up installing the bottom panels.

02.13%20bottom_zps5bvax32p.jpg


20.13%20profile_zps1fl0kkav.jpg


bottom%20done_zpsu62jnkid.jpg


I fabricated a fancy scriber to mark trim lines on the bottom.

Scriber_zpsvijoogwp.jpg


Looking like a boat:

bowview_zpsqi9ta6x7.jpg


paneled2_zpsnxi8bxcc.jpg


My shop is in chaos right now, though. Once I get the hull sanded and faired, it will be time for a cleanup:

profile_zpsqlgclvrf.jpg


67 hours into it at this point.
 
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VictorBravo

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Thanks, Is that empty or with a specified load? What are your plans for motor and covering of the hull?
Motoretro

That's with motor and crew of two, 6 gallons of fuel and nothing else, according to my figurings. But add 500 pounds and the flared hull only sinks another inch.

I'm looking for an outboard: 40-60 hp. At least for now. I'm also toying with the idea of putting in a jet pump so I can scoot up the Snake River, but that is sort of pie in the sky right now.

I'll fiberglass and epoxy the exterior, and then paint it. I'm still trying to decide on the inside. I'm thinking of installing a removable cuddy cabin in the bow.
 

scrumpy

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New Hampshire Rt93 Exit 1
VictorBravo,

Where do you usually source fiberglass for this large of an area?
Edit:
I found it on page 2, aeromarine, thanks

What grade/material marine plywood are you using? I am building front/rear casting decks in 13whaler that will be covered in glass.

Thanks,
-scrump
 
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VictorBravo

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VictorBravo,

Where do you usually source fiberglass for this large of an area?
Edit:
I found it on page 2, aeromarine, thanks

What grade/material marine plywood are you using? I am building front/rear casting decks in 13whaler that will be covered in glass.

Thanks,
-scrump

Another promising source for fiberglass and epoxy: http://store.raka.com/6ozplainweavex50in.aspx

I'm using douglas fir A/B marine ply that I could source locally. It comes from Roseburg OR, and seems to be pretty good--no voids, which is the most important thing.
 

scrumpy

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Thanks for the info, I am putting front and rear platforms in my 13 Boston Whaler along with going from a tiller steer to console and controls. Love your build and looking forward to the completed craft.
 
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APEowner

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Now I want to build a boat. What is that going to weigh? I'm thinking that flipping it over is going to be a bit of a challenge.
 
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VictorBravo

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have any updates?

jim


Sorry, things got fairly derailed since the last post. I had two back to back trials and then last Saturday my wife and I got broadsided by a fellow who forgot about the stop sign. My wife's Audi allroad is totaled.

But the 2001 allroad is stout--no real injuries, just a few aches that are going away.

So we spent all our spare and not-so-spare time dealing with insurance and getting a replacement car. We ended up getting a Ford SUV, which ought to do fine for our area.

As things are getting settled, I found a little more time to work on the boat.

It doesn't look dramatic in pictures, but we are in the slow sanding and filling stage. I fill screw holes with epoxy/wood flour paste, let it cure, and then sand. I also am using a fairing compound ("microballons and wood flour mixed with epoxy) to smooth out certain areas.

fill_zpswv7qqdza.jpg


slobber2_zpshlpuogcv.jpg


bow_zpshqxnvylm.jpg


That last photo is a stem cover I'm fairing in. My wife calls it "the bashing timber." She hopes I'll carve out a fierce cat face above the bow to imitate the Viking dragon boats, so that the jet skiers will stay away.

I also finally got my order of 40 yards of fiberglass. Once I get the holes filled and faired, that's the next stage before painting. The purpose of the fiberglass is to keep the Douglas fir ply from checking, and it also adds some abrasion resistance.

Now I want to build a boat. What is that going to weigh? I'm thinking that flipping it over is going to be a bit of a challenge.

Best calculated guess is that it will be around 1000 pounds at flip-over time. I've already figured my approach to flipping it: it will involve the MaxJax and braces.

Now at about 73 hours build time.
 
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RickP

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It doesn't look dramatic in pictures, but we are in the slow sanding and filling stage. I fill screw holes with epoxy/wood flour paste, let it cure, and then sand. I also am using a fairing compound ("microballons and wood flour mixed with epoxy) to smooth out certain areas.
...
I also finally got my order of 40 yards of fiberglass. Once I get the holes filled and faired, that's the next stage before painting. The purpose of the fiberglass is to keep the Douglas fir ply from checking, and it also adds some abrasion resistance.

The boat is looking good, and it looks like you're really making progress. Sorry about your accident -- I'm glad you're both okay.

I definitely understand how long the filling and sanding take, from my own painful experience with 40 yards of glass cloth and 15 gallons of resin over plywood. But my project wasn't nearly as much fun as yours -- I can only wish I'd built a boat instead of just doing a house repair. Good luck with the next steps, and I'm still very impressed at how fast you're making progress.
 

madoc1

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spicewood, tx
that's bad about the wreck, but good you are both ok. boats looking better and better. thanks for the update.

jim
 
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VictorBravo

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Asotin County, Washington
Another little update. Had a couple of evenings spare and got some fiberglass on the bottom.

First I coated the whole bottom with epoxy to make sure enough was absorbed by the plywood. Then I put a 40 inch wide piece of fiberglass cloth down one side.

That was sort of a mess. Generally you wait for the first coat to firm up some, but I was pushing it to get something done. It took some work to get smoothed out.


bow%20fg_zpsq2kvkzcf.jpg


The next evening I put the other side down. It went easier. The white paper is plastic-sided freezer paper that I put down as a sort of release fabric in a spot where the fiberglass kept floating up. That was because I put a bit too much epoxy there and was having trouble getting it spread out before it started setting.

I'm using a fast-set mixture because my temps are around 50 F, and it usually takes 40 minutes to start to firm up at that temperature, but this time it seemed to start kicking earlier. I probably should have tried a little smaller piece, but it seems like it will do.

bottomangle_zpsawyvpcse.jpg


half%20fg2_zpsyirlwpxe.jpg


When it all cures up, I'll sand smooth the portions overhanging the sides and fiberglass them. Then comes sanding on the bottom and one more layer.

After a few more coats of epoxy and some sanding/fairing, I'm hoping to paint and flip.

Now at 78 hours.
 
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VictorBravo

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I'm still making progress, but it is slow. Too many Spring things have hit.

Still putting fiberglass on the hull. The ideal is to pre-coat the hull and let it cure enough to not be tacky, and then put the fiberglass on and coat again. According to the epoxy gurus, this allows for a chemical bond between the subsequent layers.

The pre-coat is to prevent epoxy starvation in the fiberglass.

But I don't have that luxury, (as in the luxury of time). Several days went between pre-coat and the next step. But the gurus of all gurus, Gougen Brothers, say it is quite OK to sand the pre-coat after curing for mechanical "bite" of the second layer.

So that's what I ended up doing.

Pre-coated:

03.26%20porthull2_zpsdhspde2i.jpg


Putting fiberglass down after sanding:

fbstage1_zpsq24xm6i5.jpg


Port side finished with first coat of epoxy over fiberglass:

fbaft2_zpsxoydu4ah.jpg


Now I need to do the starboard side, another layer on the bottom, and then it's time to paint before flipping.

I'm at 82 hours into the project now.
 

RickP

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Nice progress - it's looking good.

I forget what kind of epoxy you're using - does it have an amine blush on the surface when it cures? You probably are already doing this, but rinsing the pre-coat with water and scrubbing with scotchbrite will make your sandpaper last a lot longer before getting fouled.

I was using fast cure epoxy, so mine was blushing pretty badly - I'd rinse and then use a dozen paper towels to soak up the red-colored water on the flat surfaces before I started sanding the pre-coat. Nasty looking stuff, and a real pain to clean up. If you're using slow cure hardener, yours might not be that bad, but make sure you get rid of any amine residue so the next epoxy coat will stick.
 
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VictorBravo

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Right now I'm using Raka epoxy with no-blush hardener. It was not too expensive, even with shipping from Florida, and the low-viscosity resin fills the weave very well.

No blush at all, but I did wipe down the surfaces before sanding.
 
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VictorBravo

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This might be worth a look for future boat projects. I have a sample kit coming, looks very promising. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/epoxy/dwx/index.htm
Motoretro

Thanks, I like the duckworks site, but hadn't looked at it lately. I think I like Raka's package price a bit more (the no-blush hardener is $14 more):

http://store.raka.com/3gallonepoxykit.aspx

I'm reserving judgment on the UV protection claim of the Duckworks epoxy. Maybe try putting something coated with your sample kit out in the sun for 6 months to see how well it holds up. Epoxy generally yellows in direct sunlight without protection.
 
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