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Power source recommendation for electrolysis

Simple Sam

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Aug 24, 2011
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I have read some articles here about electrolysis for rust removal and thought I would give it a try. I used a model train transformer that I had lying around and it worked great for removing rust from some wrenches until it quit working. I think it must have overloaded the circuit. Anyway, I want to give it another go to remove rust from vises and I need a dedicated power supply.

I see most people use automtive battery chargers which I don't have and really don't need. I was looking at two craftsman battery chargers; one is "manual" and one is "automatic" http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02871221000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5 or http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02871222000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6 . There's only $10 difference but some of the articles I've read said you don't want to use a "smart" charger. I am only getting this for electrolysis; I keep good batteries in my car and have never had problems that required a battery charger (which is why I don't already have one) Any input? Thanks,
 
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ibedayank

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you need a old transformer based charger with nothing more than a meter in the front...no fans no leds....no fancy let you know when its charged ****...only the old style transformer types will work


these will work just as well as a battery charger...and will work where the new style battery chagers wont

http://www.copper.com/cart/index.php?cPath=58&osCsid=4eedcd28fee734ee4472d32a0f6ced30
13.8 volt regulated power supply
 
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JimDon

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rummage sales, craigs list. if you dont see one for sale on CL, then post for it in te wanted section. BC are a dime a dozen.
 
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Simple Sam

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The regulated power supply looks like an interesting alternative; I'm guessing that the electronics would be higher quality than an equivalent priced battery charger. The downside is the 5 amp one is as expensive as a charger, isn't as flexible as a charger, and isn't at the Sears down the street with an easy return policy if it doesn't work out.

I thought about a computer power supply but they have those giant wiring harness rather than just a simple positive and negative leads and the place I looked didn't give the amperage.

Has anybody used either the cheaper charger mentioned or the regulated power supply like Ibedayank mentions?
 

SweetD

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An old battery charger is quite typically a common item at a garage sale. If you're not in a rush, you can probably find a nice used one dirt cheap. And ibedayank is right, you need to have the "non-smart" type. I have a smart one I use to maintain my boat battery in the off season, and it did not work for electrolysis application.

The one I am using now is very similar to your more expensive example you posted above (10/2/50 amp). It's just older.

Dave
 

cnc-me

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Track light transformer and bridge rectifier.
Should be good for 5 amps.
 

spongerich

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He lost me at "stainless steel" sacrificial anode in post two. My Chem engineer buddy made me promise never to do that - something about "hex-chrome" and me having children to raise.

Yes, hexavalent chromium is VERY BAD ****.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexavalent_chromium
http://www.brockovich.com/mystory.html

I've used PC power supplies with mixed success. Most of them haven't lasted too long. I've been using a $1 yard sale battery charger for months and it works great.
 
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Stuart in MN

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I'd look for a good linear DC power supply - do a search on eBay for "Power one power supply" or "Condor power supply" (two brand names, but essentially the same device.) They're good quality and can be run continuously. You'll have to put on a power cord, and since they're an open frame device there are exposed electrical components so it really should be put in an enclosure of some kind for safety. They also sell switching power supplies, but I'd stick with a linear one for this application. They come in a variety of voltages and amperages, here's one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Condor-F15-...225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230d9677c1 12 volts,16 amps, $21.95 buy it now.
 

cnc-me

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Have you actually used this setup? And some track lights are already 12VDC so I'm assuming you are talking about an AC version that is lower voltage?

Yes, AC version the type with transformer in each "can".
Have not actually used one for electrolysis, but have used them for
other purposes. Got more lights than places to hang them so
I use the transformers for other projects.
 
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Simple Sam

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I ended up getting the Cman manual charger. I hooked it up yesterday and it worked great. On the ten amp setting, I removed all the paint and rust from a small vise in about eight hours.
 

Lee Celtic

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resurrecting this if no one minds..

I'm having trouble finding a none smart charger for Electrolysis.. If I throw a stick at ebay it bounces off several smart ones before coming to rest..I'm in the UK and out in the sticks so limited local options.

So I tried an old phone charger and it worked but at 500 milli amps took too long, I have googled the hell out of this and it seems 2-4 amps is the target.. I work in a furniture factory and we use cordless power drills in nearly every dept, as they die the chargers for said drills get dumped in a big box in the maintenance dept so I have access to dozens of them. Does anyone with knowledge of the wizardry of Electrickery think they would work as a power supply. or would these also be too smart..?

I have a large box of old retro/ vintage spanners and calipers I'd like to clean up and display..I set up yesterday and dipped half a spanner to see if it worked.. I think it did quite well for a phone charger. so now I know it works I'm planning a bigger better (and better made) set up.

Bedford (War finish) 22/20mm open ended spanner used for test.
 

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Warrenator

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If you use a car battery charger it comes with an ammeter so you can see how many amps, plus a switch so you can do hi/lo electrolysis rate. First time I tried it I used a regulated 12v power supply, bad idea, I ended up melting the power supply as it drew too much current.

Get some carbon plates for electrodes, the water/sodium carbonate solution stays very clean . I got mine off ebay, 15 bucks well spent. Get them at least 6 inches long, more convenient.
 

jakemac

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Keep an eye out for an older battery charger at boot sales. You might get lucky.
In the meantime, try using your smart charger with a battery in the loop to fool the charger into staying on. :dunno:
 

Lee Celtic

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If you use a car battery charger it comes with an ammeter so you can see how many amps, plus a switch so you can do hi/lo electrolysis rate. First time I tried it I used a regulated 12v power supply, bad idea, I ended up melting the power supply as it drew too much current.

Get some carbon plates for electrodes, the water/sodium carbonate solution stays very clean . I got mine off ebay, 15 bucks well spent. Get them at least 6 inches long, more convenient.

All the chargers I can find only have a bank of red led's charging half full etc.. I'm heading for the car boot on sunday.. spotted a Paramo vise there and asked the guy to hold onto it for me... £20 he wants so I'll have a look around for an old charger then.. But I might give a drill charger a go just for science :shocking:
 

Warrenator

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Wall wart style chargers for drills might do the trick.... the current is limited in electrolysis by the voltage, the amount of salt in the water, and the size and number of electrodes and wires you use. I would give the drill chargers a go, if nothing seems to happen throw in a bit more sodium carbonate (or bicarbonate) which lowers the resistance of the water. If the drill charger gets very hot in use, too much current is passing so maybe try a more dilute solution of sodium carbonate.

Negative is your rusty part, positive is the electrode , remember that by "Rust Runs to Red".
 
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Lee Celtic

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Well as promised in the interest of Science I got hold of a 14.4v Bosch drill battery charger to give it a go (Actually found it in a box I was going to throw out)..

I also switched out the sheet of thin steel plate for a bit of 2x2 angle iron with a hole drilled in it for a good terminal to be attached and used a cleaned up welding earth clamp to hook up the test piece..

As it turned out a couple of blade terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires simply pushed into the two terminals in the charger so it can still be used for a drill if needed..

Hooked it all up last night and left the thing going for 12 hours and I'm glad to report it worked great.. so the free electrolysis tank is still a free item.. No money was hurt in the making of this tank. :thumbup:

Just put two spanners in.. one is a King **** double ring and the other I think is a Austin open end but I can't see the name in it very well.. I'll update with before and afters . ;)
 

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ttpete

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Dearborn, MI
I acquired a Lectroetch brand power supply that was originally made to etch lettering on tools and dies. It can supply AC or DC from 0 to 30 volts at up to 50 amps. Adjustment is done with a Variac variable reactance unit. It has volt and amp meters built in. In addition to electrolysis, I find it handy for operating 6, 12 and 24 volt devices and lighting units on the bench.
 

Lee Celtic

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Llanberis, North Wales UK
That looks like a very handy bit of kit.. However it would cost me $450 to get it sent over here..lol

I'll stick with the freebie until something else turns up.. I'm a bit of a magpie when it comes to transformers and chargers.. almost never throw them away.

That has come in handy with this tank and the LED strip I bought a few weeks ago as I had an old charger that even had the right plug on it to fit straight on.
 
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