Power to table saw

[Bunchgrass]

I'd like to hear some suggestions about how you ran your power to a large stationary machine like a cabinet table saw. Since I need space all around the saw I can't be near a wall --- so either an extension cord to a receptacle or an overhead drop seem to be my options and both have shortcomings. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[ard]

Cord.

Overhead drop will be in the way at some point....

(I assume the place is built and floor poured? )

Id replace any cord with the length you need (and avoid fittings flopping around on the floor). Might void the ul listing, but thats me.

 

[slow]

Floor mounted receptacle or short post near the base of the saw with receptacle mounted to it. Of course your average shop is concrete floor and you likely didnt plan for a saw when it was built, so this is an messy and expensive solution.

 

[archy99]

Likely not the solution you are looking for, but for years, I ran my Unisaw off a 100’ heavy SO cord from a dryer outlet in the house...run out through the basement window to the detached garage with no 240v. As much of a pain as that was, that long cord still gets used. My shop has grown and gotten full power, but that cord sure allows for some serious freedom in saw placement.


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[James-W]

I just removed the original cord and installed a longer one. You can buy rubberized power cord from any big box store and install the correct end for the outlet. Then wire the other end into the saw and you are ready to go.

 

[Hollywood D]

I just removed the original cord and installed a longer one. You can buy rubberized power cord from any big box store and install the correct end for the outlet. Then wire the other end into the saw and you are ready to go.

This. Shouldn’t be too difficult to open up the motor and wire a new cord. Just like installing a new dryer.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I need space all around the saw I can't be near a wall...

This makes no sense at all.

I am a professional woodworker and my primary table saw and fence cuts to the center of a 100" panel. I have never needed more capability than this. The saw simply plugs into a 230-volt outlet on the wall.

 

[klassenl]

This makes no sense at all.

I am a professional woodworker and my primary table saw and fence cuts to the center of a 100" panel. I have never needed more capability than this. The saw simply plugs into a 230-volt outlet on the wall.

This makes no sense at all.

I am a hobbyist and I love having the saw in the middle of the shop and I have never needed anything more than my 30 inch rip.





If you want room around your saw then do it. If you want it pushed up against the wall do it. You can feed it from the ceiling or the floor like I did or have an extension cord running across the floor.

 

[MeentSS02]

This. Shouldn’t be too difficult to open up the motor and wire a new cord. Just like installing a new dryer.

Another vote for this from me.

Good general info in this thread, which is directly applicable to your problem: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133966

Because of that thread, I've recently found the joy of portable cordage, available from places like these:

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/

Build to suit your specific application, because every garage/shop/home is different.

And don't settle for anything less than what you want/need.

 

[Terry D]

I agree, a cord drop might get in the way at times. If your saw is going to have a out feed table in back of it, maybe bring the power into that and the cord from the saw could plug in at a receptacle under the table.

 

[Bunchgrass]

Thanks for the input. I agree that the over head drop gets in the way (tried it once). I wish I had the foresight to run a line under the slab but that would have taken more planning and commitment then I usually am capable of. Current shop situation (and my shop is a wood/weld/ag/auto shop) is a challenge as I haven't finished putting in all my electrical receptacles so there are a lot of extension cords running hither and yon so cords are a real irritant right now. A single dedicated to the saw looks like the way to go.

 

[Git]

I have a post in my garage between the 2nd and 3rd stall. No matter how while you try to plan things out, something will come up and change things. I have moved my table saw several times over the years trying to find the best place for it. For me what works is I ran an outlet down the post from the attic above and just use a simple cord with a locking plug.

 

[u2slow]

Google 'cord protector' or make something similar out of strips of plywood.

 

[James-W]

Unless you have a really HUGE workshop it is nice to be able to move the table saw around and put it where you need it to be for the job you are doing. I have a 24X36 garage and I leave the table saw up against one wall when I am not using it. When I need to saw something like a full sheet of plywood, I roll the saw to where I need it to be, then I lock the wheels, put on the dust collection hose, and I am ready to make some sawdust.

During the Summer I have been known to push the table saw out onto the driveway and do my sawing out there. I do that if I have a lot of sawing to do on larger pieces of wood and it is a real nice day.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Do you have dust collection? That's your answer. If you have dust collection run your power cord the same way you run your DC pipe. I have a 10" tilting table ts that plugs in overhead and the cord for my 12/14 cabinet saw runs along the floor on the outfeed side, basically along the dc flex hose.

 

[DieselNut88]

I have a overhead drop. The drop comes down a lolly Column about 3 feet from the right corner of the saw and across the floor to the bottom of the saw. The only issue I have is that it is on the floor,but I ran my dust collection with it also. They both are hard to clean around, but it is the best option I have.

 

[Norcal]

Not a good option in existing shops because of cost of saw cutting concrete & removal, then restoring it, but floor boxes do work.



Taken some years back when the floor was being prepped for epoxy, a couple of 120V and a 240V receptacles.