The drivers power seat in my wife's Lincoln is making a clicking sound, apparently a known issue with the track, and the first thing popping into my head is, I get to buy a PowerProbe 3. Any last minute warnings or suggestions?
PowerProbe 3, still wonderful?
- Thread starter Danglerb
- Start date
RBailey
Well-known member
Great tool !
http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/01/power-probe-iii-aka-light-sabre.html
Just be carefull when you are using it to apply voltage. (Its expensive to put the blue smoke back into the computer once its got out!)
http://diary-of-mgb.blogspot.com/2011/01/power-probe-iii-aka-light-sabre.html
Just be carefull when you are using it to apply voltage. (Its expensive to put the blue smoke back into the computer once its got out!)
I'm going to call the manufacturer in the morning, makes no sense to me how large of a spread in price I am seeing for "I think" the same "Power Probe 319FTC" kit, from $92 to $152 at vendors that usually don't stray that much from each other.
Drew_flux
Well-known member
ive got the first version. the thing is a wepon, it has saved me so much time over the last 5 years.
diesel research
Well-known member
pp3ls01
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
There is a wide price spread on them so, find the best and most complete deal. The powerprobe is like any other tool, it's only as good as the person using it. The only caution I have is to use it with a wiring diagram. I have seen techs power up the wrong circuit over the years trying to save time and do more damage than good.
Also make sure there isn't a water bottle wedged under your seat or that the drive cable hasn't popped out.
Also make sure there isn't a water bottle wedged under your seat or that the drive cable hasn't popped out.
TheGrooveking
Well-known member
I picked up my Power Probe 3 this last Friday in trying to find the gremlins in my F250SD and I have to report that it was great moving around having both a voltmeter, a positive and a negative connection along with being able to apply power of either polarity. I now wonder why I waited so long in getting one.
TheGrooveking
TheGrooveking
K5blazer83
Well-known member
I've had my PP3 for over a 6 months now and I love it to death. It has saved me time in all the electrical diagnosis' that I do. My multi-meter, for the most part collects dust. Between the Snap-On Vantage w/ the EETA308A Current Probe and the Power Probe 3, I can tackle anything electrical I need.
Just pull the trigger and buy it! I promise you won't regret it.
Just pull the trigger and buy it! I promise you won't regret it.
wafrederick
Well-known member
Go to a class on CAN vehicles starting in early 2003,a power probe 3 is a no no to use on CAN vehicles including test lights.It is never to be used on the CAN line,two wires twisted together.Smokes up to 3 or 4 computers at the same time which gets very expensive and a low resitance dvom is only used.I have gone to a class on CAN vehicles.
I swear you bring up that same CAN class every time a powerprobe is mentioned, and if all you got out of the class is "don't use powerprobes" you probably missed the while point of the class. If you keep your fingers off the rocker switch, the powerprobe is no more dangerous than any other multimeter out there. The problem is when guys start fiddling with the switch on harnesses and connectors when they have no idea what they go to.
It's a useful tool, nothing more, nothing less. Keep your **** beaters off the rocker switch unless you know what the consequences of doing so are, and the chance of something getting smoked is exactly zero...
It's a useful tool, nothing more, nothing less. Keep your **** beaters off the rocker switch unless you know what the consequences of doing so are, and the chance of something getting smoked is exactly zero...
ourkid2000
Well-known member
Man, that is hilarious....nicely done
K5blazer83
Well-known member
Stick nailed it. It's your **** beaters and lack of knowledge that get you into trouble with the power probe.
MrMark
Well-known member
What's its input impedance? Never been able to get an answer.
You need to know that to know if Wafredrick's instructor knows what he is talking about or not. If it draws too much current for its voltmeter function then it could be bad for signal control lines.
On the other hand, Wafredrick's statement that a low resistance DVOM should be used makes absolutely no sense. Perhaps he meant a high input impedance DVOM at 10 MOhm so that the machine essentially does not disturb the circuit.
You need to know that to know if Wafredrick's instructor knows what he is talking about or not. If it draws too much current for its voltmeter function then it could be bad for signal control lines.
On the other hand, Wafredrick's statement that a low resistance DVOM should be used makes absolutely no sense. Perhaps he meant a high input impedance DVOM at 10 MOhm so that the machine essentially does not disturb the circuit.
Last edited:
My concern on price is that there may be some model variation, seems real odd that a blue case is $152 and plain case is $116 both at Tooltopia, $102 amazon, and $92 at Onlinetiretools.
Link to spec page.
http://www.powerprobe.com/powerprobe/prod_specs.html
Power Probe III
Maximum Voltage on Probe Tip: ± 200 Volts Relative to the Negative Battery Clip
Probe tip resistance to ground 130KΩ Computer Safe: 0.1mA floating tip. Voltage range: 12-24v
(warning: do not press power switch while connected to computer circuits with PP1,2 or 3)
Circuit Breaker
8 amp thermal response - manual reset 8 amp=No trip 10 amps=20 min. 15 amps=6 sec. 25 amps=2 sec. Short circuit=0.3 sec.
AMP Ratings for Probes, Leads and Adapters
1, 3, 6’ Leads 30 amps
Alligator Clip Lead 20 amps
Male-Male Adapter 30 amps
Female-Female Adapter 30 amps
300 volt RMS rating
Small Piercing Probe 10 amps
Large Piercing Probe 20 amps
Power Probe Tip 30 amps
Link to spec page.
http://www.powerprobe.com/powerprobe/prod_specs.html
Power Probe III
Maximum Voltage on Probe Tip: ± 200 Volts Relative to the Negative Battery Clip
Probe tip resistance to ground 130KΩ Computer Safe: 0.1mA floating tip. Voltage range: 12-24v
(warning: do not press power switch while connected to computer circuits with PP1,2 or 3)
Circuit Breaker
8 amp thermal response - manual reset 8 amp=No trip 10 amps=20 min. 15 amps=6 sec. 25 amps=2 sec. Short circuit=0.3 sec.
AMP Ratings for Probes, Leads and Adapters
1, 3, 6’ Leads 30 amps
Alligator Clip Lead 20 amps
Male-Male Adapter 30 amps
Female-Female Adapter 30 amps
300 volt RMS rating
Small Piercing Probe 10 amps
Large Piercing Probe 20 amps
Power Probe Tip 30 amps
I just got off the phone with Power Probe, learned a few things.
They don't sell to any of the online retailers and have no idea how they get product. If you buy from one of them and send in the item for warranty, they go by an internal date of manufacture and allow 18 months. Guy was very gungho about buying only from "traditional sources", Napa, Cornwall, Carquest, but I'm not drinking that koolaid.
They are selling a bunch of the new key turning things.
Power Probe 3 319FTC is the base kit and the same content for all colors etc., and they have no idea why prices vary.
Regards blowing brains, don't push the switch on anything you wouldn't put a jumper cable on.
Regards current limit, tap the switch, don't try to power the high current device, just see if the motor turns etc.
They don't sell to any of the online retailers and have no idea how they get product. If you buy from one of them and send in the item for warranty, they go by an internal date of manufacture and allow 18 months. Guy was very gungho about buying only from "traditional sources", Napa, Cornwall, Carquest, but I'm not drinking that koolaid.
They are selling a bunch of the new key turning things.
Power Probe 3 319FTC is the base kit and the same content for all colors etc., and they have no idea why prices vary.
Regards blowing brains, don't push the switch on anything you wouldn't put a jumper cable on.
Regards current limit, tap the switch, don't try to power the high current device, just see if the motor turns etc.
wafrederick
Well-known member
The instructor of the class I went to does car computer work,a mobile shop in New Jersey.He replaced a smoked up computer in a car because some yo yo used a power probe 3.You don't send 12 volts to a 5 volt sensor,the power probe is just like a gun.Shoots voltage down a wire.If you see two wires twisted together on early 2003 and current CAN vehicles,leave them alone and don't probe them with the power probe including a test light.
07Forester
Well-known member
A simple 12v test light won't do **** to a can line. Please, stop talking out of your ***. Also, just because a twisted pair of wires is present, does NOT mean that it's can. Prime example, newer fords (some) twist the speaker wires running to the factory amps (talking mustang here). Maybe you need to re-go that class and learn something.
I personally don't use a powerprobe, however have been recently acquiring the want for one. Audio Installers will tell you horror stories about probes, same with techs. But those are the same who get trigger happy with them. YMMV.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Are you aware that the only real difference between a CAN system and other vehicle communication systems is that on a CAN network controllers communicate with each other independently instead of using a central control module that they all communicate through? It's not witchcraft, black magic or some smoke and mirrors technology. You can cook any circuit by delivering either a short earth or live to it under the wrong set of circumstances. CAN isn't something special in that aspect.
I saw lots of wire pairs twisted together diaging a Peugeot recently. Not CAN lines, ABS sensor wiring, so what the hell does twisted wires have to do with CAN?
Oh, and early 2003? Close, but you're 20 years off. Bosch GmbH began developing CAN in 1983. The first CAN system hit the market in 1987.
The sole reason you're not on my ignore list is the comedy value of your posts.
It doesn't bother me that you chat nonsense and don't have a clue, what bothers me is that you give people totally wrong information because you're talking about something you have no understanding of. (No different to your "common faults" moments or sight-unseen diagnosis.)
Last edited:
wafrederick
Well-known member
My father knows someone that smoked 4 computers of a CAN car with a power probe.It was very expensive.Some mid year 2003 Fords are CAN and there is a website out there showing the list.
That's sig line material right there.
Was that someone you?
Again, it has nothing to do with the tool. The only problem is the "tech" that put B+ to a CAN data line. It's no different than someone playing with some jumper wires and supplying voltage that way, only in that case you'd be blaming the tech instead of the tool.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Uh?
I could go to work and do that now, that's nothing impressive. Some idiot jumped a 12v live feed to a data line and let out the smoke, so what?. Very expensive? I recently repaired an Audi wiring loom damaged by serious water damage inside the car. But what the hell does the expense have to do with the matter at hand? A PowerProbe can't do a damn thing by itself. It can't connect itself to the B+ and B- terminals, can't check for polarity or voltage at any given point or terminal by itself and it most certainly can't jump B+ to a CAN data line by itself. Nor can it cause any expensive damage by itself.
What you don't seem to understand is that the tool alone can do no damage to anything. It is the person using it and their lack of ability, knowledge or care that can cause damage. Similary a wrench can't round a bolt, the excessive force of the user, transmitted via the wrench rounds it.
If you really did this CAN class you didn't pick up much about it, because you clearly display a total lack of understanding for it. Also, the details you give of the class bear no relevance. Two wires twisted together signifies a CAN data line? No. Not at all. The Audi i mentioned before had a CAN data line from the comfort control module that was replaced, but it wasn't two twisted wires.
I don't think we'll ever get through.
mtkst19
Well-known member
what ever kit you buy, do yourself a favor and buy an extra rocker switch. i use my so much i wore it out. worthwhile to have a spare ready to go. they are not much money.
BQuicksilver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 560
My Dad told me to avoid the PP3 because they can become self-aware, initiate global apocalypse, and require cyborgs sent back in time to solve said issue. Very expensive.
chadster1
Well-known member
We are Power Probe III, resistance is futile.
Dolsontools
Well-known member
Yep.
bgott
Well-known member
Tool themed reality based comedy, just needs more picts and vids.
Best price I am seeing is about $102 shipped, but its just slightly higher at Tire Tools Online and they have a set of 24" Mayhew Catspaw flex bit holder and 1/4 driver for $20 which is a fair amount cheaper than anyplace else I've seen it.
Best price I am seeing is about $102 shipped, but its just slightly higher at Tire Tools Online and they have a set of 24" Mayhew Catspaw flex bit holder and 1/4 driver for $20 which is a fair amount cheaper than anyplace else I've seen it.
Actually the idea isn't that wires pick up less interference, its that they each pick up the SAME interference, so when the signal is measured differentially the "common mode" noise is canceled out. Measured with a ground reference each wire would have the same amount of noise twisted or not.
Easy way to look at this is a "basic" telephone. A battery in series with a capsule of loose carbon particles is the transmitter, vibration in the air moves a diaphragm that squishes the carbon reducing resistance and increasing current flow. Current flows through miles of twisted wire, twisted is the best way to be sure all sorts of noise effects the wires equally. On the other end you have a speaker with a voice coil, and the current that flows in the coil is pretty much 100% of the difference in voltage between the wires, a big spike that is the same on both wires does nothing.
MrMark
Well-known member
Can you please clarify your statements here. Are you saying that someone smoked computers by just probing with the power probe in its passive mode? Its input impedance is very low. Or, are you saying that someone put 12V across a ciruit that happened to be a CAN signal circuit? If the latter, well of course that is going to happen and its obviously operator error. The power probe's fault is that it makes operator error too easy to happen in the wrong hands.
Please clarify!
Last edited:
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
You really need to re-take that class again; there's a whole lot you missed. Did you by chance fall asleep?