Praise for the AHP AlphaTIG 200X

[kkroger]

Alright, I am generally speaking NOT a fan of Chinese machines, I have been using one of these Yellow welders at the shop for the better part of a year, and it impressed me enough to go ahead and purchase one for home use, Using one in the shop has shown me some of the shortcomings and how to remedy them, for the purchase price of $709 shipped through Amazon, for a 200 Amp machine...

First the Torch that it comes with now is perfectly serviceable, however the lead while not horrible is still heavy and stiff it APPEARS to be like a CK superflex but it surely is not, the WP 17 Flex STYLE torch is very serviceable. One COULD use this for a long time with no issues BUT it will get too hot to hold and there will be times when you want a longer lead, I like a 25' lead, I contacted Jeff Noland at HTP for a Ck 20, water cooled torch and leads with a leather lead covering, I have lots of sparks and cutting tools grinders going in the shop that could cause damage to the leads so I went with the leather cover. EVEN so the 25' lead and 20 torch with liquid cooling is still more flexible and lighter than the existing torch. I also as you can probably tell added a water cooler, I got that also from HTP the Arctic Chill 120V unit...

OK Cutting to the chase the HTP Pedal was added as the provided unit is marginal for me, I can USE it but it does ****. the HTP pedal is head and shoulders above the provided unit.

This is starting to sound like an HTP commercial.. I assure you there are solutions available from other suppliers not just HTP, but it was a one stop shop and I got a bit of a discount from them.

1- Cooler is well built and works very well and has a flow restriction Alarm I like it. other coolers can be used or built for this. One item is that HTP will not honor the warranty on the cooler if you don't use their coolant which according to the label is Ethylene Glycol and DI water... they say automotive coolant will damage the pump which is Stainless Steel with a Bronze impeller, I'd say do what you wish, I bought their coolant and it is EXPENSIVE $39 a gallon and you need almost 2 gallons, Also add an Algaecide Fungicide. Fan and Pump rival the welder for noise!
2- Need to add a 120VAC Pigtail out of the welder so I have a single switch to activate the cooler and welder at the same time.
3- Pedal enough said on that one
4- Torch also enough said, the standard Dinse plugs on the machine help with that and it is all plug and play.

OK using this machine with the additions FEELS more like a pro machine, no stupidly short leads, no hokey pedal etc.

That Said, I made a $700 welder a $1680 welder by the additions, people may say that it is not worth it but I disagree, the closest "Blue" welder in price range is the Miller Diversion 180... Looking at that one right now on Cyberweld and it is $2139, it is a limited machine no standard lead attachment, no pulser, no adjustment to frequency or pre-post flow, it IS AC/DC and definitely a decent FIRST welder but the price is pretty steep, you COULD make changes sure, but adding to the cost and still having a really limited machine IMHO, I have a Diversion the torch it comes with while genuine Weldcraft is Rigid and the lead is STIFF and HEAVIER than the AHP, the pedal is pretty hokey as well, all these things CAN be remedied but you will get into Dynasty Money for a meh welder.

Comparing the AHP to a Dynasty is unfair but the Dynasty is in the $5k to $6k range unless you go used then it would STILL be in the $4k range most likely.

The AHP unit and Cooler will fit comfortably on a low cost cart such as the Harbor Freight or Northern carts. Strap the welder down and put some better casters and wheels on it than HF provides now. Or build your own.

 

[Craptain]

Thanks for posting. The AHP has been on my short list for quite some time now. I think it just moved up.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[kkroger]

I Unboxed this and hooked everything up in a few minutes, Added Coolant, Checked for Leaks and grabbed a machined part from 6061T6 aluminum to do a "Buildup" on just to give it a shot, the material is 3/4" thick so a great heat sink, I grabbed a 3/32 Tungsten, and assembled with a small cup and Gas Lens, sharpened a 2% Lanthanated and turned everything on, and went to work, at 200Amps 120Hz and 100PPS I did a half inch of build up on the part, I'll try to take some pics of some welds later just for posterity. But it worked pretty nice, torch stayed cool etc. of these modifications though if you can't or don't want water cooled, save the money from the cooler and cooled torch and get a Ck Superflex lead for what you have, a stubby cup kit, and the PEDAL if NOTHING else DO get the better pedal, thank me later! You will have a 60% Duty Cycle at 200A, and 100% for anything under 150A... Not bad at all.

I have seen similar coolers on E-Bay for $250ish with no restriction alarm (almost identical to the Longevity or Everlast units just a different color) I like the alarm.

the Cooler I bought was $439, the Torch was $174 with the leads and leather as stated all Ck and Superflex...

The Pedal is HTP it runs around $150 looks the same as the SSC unit at similar money and the NOVA unit also at similar cost. All well worth it. IMHO.

 

[txvwnut]

I've been using an Alpha Tig for about two years now and have no complaints either except for the pedal. I replaced mine with an SSC unit and it is so much better to have a true rocker pedal versus that stupid paddle flap thing.

The one thing I suggest doing is opening the machine up and checking the gap on the high frequency contacts. Mine were a little out of scew and the gap was more than .030".

This is my second Chinese made tig and it is a great little machine for the money and I recommend them every time a conversation about what type if tig unit to buy comes up. My other Chinese tig is a longevity tigweld 200 and never worked right out of the box, and longevity carefully waited till the warranty ran out to return my phone calls. When they finally did return the call they got a rather rude individual wanting his welder fixed. Which they never did but did give me support in trouble shooting the high frequency contacts.

 

[Kev In]

I bought the Alpha Tig 200X a few months ago and love the machine. I am a complete beginner with TIG, but I had a relative who TIG's daily for a living give me some lessons and he was amazed with the machine and features based on the price. I have only upgraded to a stubby lens, but may upgrade the torch in the future. I agree the foot pedal isn't the best and will be looking at the HTP pedal as my next purchase. So far I am very happy with my purchase.

 

[kkroger]

I paid the extra $20 for the heel rest too for the pedal, I like it a lot, Modified the welder last night adding a 120VAC outlet on the back plane above the circuit breaker so I can leave the cooler on and just flip one switch on the welder, or disarm the cooler when I use an air cooled torch (if I should want too) Several things that should be added to the AHP
Better Pedal should be the number 1 priority I know the pedals everyone uses are from China too it can't be THAT much to add it to the box and drop the crappy one.
Longer leads and just go with the Ck Superflex dangit!
the 17 torch is not a deal breaker for sure but a longer more flexible lead would be nice.
Add the 59 cent outlet to the back plane...
They COULD go with Gas Through on the Dinse connector really. would not be too difficult.
Offer a cooler, I see a cooler similar to the HTP but without the restricted flow alert, for half the price sourced from China, Make some Yellow ones and offer them too. Add the restriction alarm for a full featured system, Ck Superflex knockoff 20 torches exist as well offer that with the cooler for like $450 or so...

 

[kkroger]

I have been asked a couple times now "What do I GAIN from the pedal?" well the machine is still the same current, same torch same everything but you have more CONTROL.. and TIG is ALL about CONTROL... Allows you to be more comfortable and easier to work. Same with a lighter weight torch, much easier...

 

[mike13u]

That HTP foot pedal looks like is just a typical SSC pedal. Are you referring to it as an HTP because the 6-pin connection of an HTP is what fits on your AHP machine? Just curious.
SSC does make durable pedals. We have some going on 10 years with no issues.
We use a lot of finger control TIG now but recently I started switching the in-shop machines to remote control pedals. So nice not to deal with a cable if you have the option. Doubt its worth the money to most hobbyist though.
Good to hear about the AHP. Its good for everyone when more options are available in the markets.

 

[stsmytherie]

I'll just throw in here that while some people prefer the SSC style foot pedals, I've been perfectly happy with the current AHP-provided pedal and kind of prefer it to the one I learned on (Miller Dynasty).

YMMV

A year in, still pleased as punch with my Alphatig.

 

[kkroger]

That HTP foot pedal looks like is just a typical SSC pedal. Are you referring to it as an HTP because the 6-pin connection of an HTP is what fits on your AHP machine? Just curious.
SSC does make durable pedals. We have some going on 10 years with no issues.
We use a lot of finger control TIG now but recently I started switching the in-shop machines to remote control pedals. So nice not to deal with a cable if you have the option. Doubt its worth the money to most hobbyist though.
Good to hear about the AHP. Its good for everyone when more options are available in the markets.

I did mention the SSC and the NOVA and the HTP. HTP Branded, bought from HTP so HTP, seems a pretty simple thing, probably all three are just rebranded people's factory number 14 pedals but my HTP model says Hecho in USA on it. Perhaps "Assembled" in USA but I doubt it is made in usa. I have never seen the heel rest that HTP sells offered anywhere else. But yeah it is pretty much the same device.

 

[kkroger]

I'll just throw in here that while some people prefer the SSC style foot pedals, I've been perfectly happy with the current AHP-provided pedal and kind of prefer it to the one I learned on (Miller Dynasty).

YMMV

A year in, still pleased as punch with my Alphatig.

I'd almost be willing to throw out your opinion based on this response alone.

I cannot for the life of me see how anyone would PREFER that hoopty POS over a quality pedal? the thing is stiff, slides around, I can't RELIABLY set my foot on it and manipulate it under hood if I take my foot off the pedal I lose registration with it and have to look down to find the fuggin thing again, only thing that keeps it "Close" is the damned short cord! Seriously... I've welded with TIG machines from Lincoln, Miller, and others both Newer and older and even compared to the Miller Diversion Pedal that thing with the AHP is not a runner. To each their own though, TIG is all about control, and if you can control the current better with the pedal then you will be miles ahead. I've bolted the AHP POS down to a board, I've set my heel on the pedal, on the box, I've heard people say they bolted a chunk of 2x4 on top of the pedal and set heel on box and manipulated with the toe which seems somewhat awkward. can't really imagine anyone liking that thing. I pretty much have zero control with it because it is pretty much floored, and I just speed up as heat builds up. I'd do as well with a switch and use the ramp controls. Its **** IMHO.

 

[mike13u]

I did mention the SSC and the NOVA and the HTP. HTP Branded, bought from HTP so HTP, seems a pretty simple thing, probably all three are just rebranded people's factory number 14 pedals but my HTP model says Hecho in USA on it. Perhaps "Assembled" in USA but I doubt it is made in usa. I have never seen the heel rest that HTP sells offered anywhere else. But yeah it is pretty much the same device.

That is what I'm trying to tell you. No rebranded peoples factory 14 pedals. SSC Controls out of Ohio has been making TIG foot pedals for probably 30+ years. They make a pedal for almost all major brands and if they have a deal to provide pedals to a machine company that is sold under the company's label, they take them out of their inventory in that configuration and let the machine company sell them private label. So, you wont find HTP configurations on their availability list because they private label their pedals to HTP apparently now. That said, you could have bought one for the AHP Alpha TIG 200X direct from them though.
Not that this makes a bit of difference for you. Just letting people know that might not be aware about SSC and some solid USA-made TIG pedals.
Lincoln machines used to be sold with SSC pedals. Not sure what they provide now. The cool thing about SSC is they still make pedals for a bunch of old machines. If you find a smoking deal on an old Linde transformer heliarc, you can still get a nice pedal for it and start burning some rod.

 

[kkroger]

I bought it from HTP because I was buying other items from HTP One stop shopping as I said above I really don't care. It was branded HTP, it says MADE IN USA on it and the item number from HTP is the same as SSC, So what? What is it you are "Trying to tell" me again? all because I called it HTP? WTF man? Again SO? I knew I could get one direct from SSC, I know I could get one from NOVA, I was buying **** from HTP. Jeezus! Either way I bought a different pedal and it is head and shoulders above the factory unit.

That is what I'm trying to tell you. No rebranded peoples factory 14 pedals. SSC Controls out of Ohio has been making TIG foot pedals for probably 30+ years. They make a pedal for almost all major brands and if they have a deal to provide pedals to a machine company that is sold under the company's label, they take them out of their inventory in that configuration and let the machine company sell them private label. So, you wont find HTP configurations on their availability list because they private label their pedals to HTP apparently now. That said, you could have bought one for the AHP Alpha TIG 200X direct from them though.
Not that this makes a bit of difference for you. Just letting people know that might not be aware about SSC and some solid USA-made TIG pedals.
Lincoln machines used to be sold with SSC pedals. Not sure what they provide now. The cool thing about SSC is they still make pedals for a bunch of old machines. If you find a smoking deal on an old Linde transformer heliarc, you can still get a nice pedal for it and start burning some rod.

 

[kkroger]

The NOVA pedal by the way only seems to be available out of Canada, and is functionally identical to the SSC which is the same as the HTP Branded unit, Inside and outside it looks IDENTICAL.
BUT the Miller pot apparently is rated to 100,000 cycles SSC to 1,000,000 cycles and the NOVA is special... 2,000,000 cycles... ??? but it is a dead ringer for the SSC pedal.
This is the same brand hawked by Everlast and Longevity
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVA-FOOT-C...IN-/322546331619?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/product/nova-foot-pedal-anti-slip-grip-50k-Ω

 

[theoldwizard1]

Your review sounds like most of the YouTube reviews. The machine is excellent, especially at the price point.

The accessories are "serviceable", but folks who have used the "top of the line" items (torches, leads, etc) will likely replace them.

 

[mike13u]

I bought it from HTP because I was buying other items from HTP One stop shopping as I said above I really don't care. It was branded HTP, it says MADE IN USA on it and the item number from HTP is the same as SSC, So what? What is it you are "Trying to tell" me again? all because I called it HTP? WTF man?

Nope.

"...Not that this makes a bit of difference for you. Just letting people know that might not be aware about SSC and some solid USA-made TIG pedals."

What I said is what I was trying to say.

What I meant in my first sentence was that I was trying to explain that what you have is very different than Chinese knock offs...or assembled from foreign parts...or assembled in the USA, etc.
Apparently, you knew all this though and I somehow ruffled your feathers.
My apologies.

 

[kkroger]

Meh, the NOVA apparently uses a Japanese Potentiometer, the rest of it is identical to the SSC, the SSC/HTP/ whatever in my garage right this very second has a potentiometer made in another country inside it. Assembled in USA, Which I don't care about really Circuit boards and other parts in about EVERY machine are made offshore. I don't know where that NOVA pedal is made but if it isn't SSC (with a Japanese part in it) then they probably have a legit lawsuit. Take a look at the links I posted up there.

 

[AngryBeaver]

All those upgrades you added is why I went with a Everlast 255DX. did my homework and for 1450 shipped I got an upgraded pedal, better flow meter, super flex17 air cooled torch and a 18 water cooled torch for when I purchase the cooler down the road, or build my own, and the stubby gas lense kits for both torches.

I looked real hard at the alpha before hand, and also the 200DV everlast, but decided to get a bigger and better machine for the long road. I was able to get a better deal going through them direct than going through some place like amazon, weld.com, or eBay, .

 

[ndnchf]

I bought an Alpha TIG last year and am very pleased with it. This is my first TIG so I have no other pedal to compare it to. While I found it works well, it was a bit awkward. So being a bit cheap I made a couple simple mods that greatly improved it for me. I'm sure Those other pedals are nicer, but for about $5, mine works pretty well now.

I did two things, using some wood and screws I made a block to raise up one end of the pedal to allow much better leverage to press it down with my toe. The other thing was to replace the very heavy spring with a lighter spring from Lowes. I clipped about 2 coils off it, and popped it in place of the heavy original. It is MUCH easier to depress now. Here is my pedal, with the original spring for comparison. Also, here is a link to the new spring.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-2-Pack-Zinc-Gate-Hardware/3115915

 

[Cahark]

I love mine. Here's the cart I built for it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stsmytherie]

I'd almost be willing to throw out your opinion based on this response alone.

I cannot for the life of me see how anyone would PREFER that hoopty POS over a quality pedal? the thing is stiff, slides around, I can't RELIABLY set my foot on it and manipulate it under hood if I take my foot off the pedal I lose registration with it and have to look down to find the fuggin thing again, only thing that keeps it "Close" is the damned short cord! Seriously... I've welded with TIG machines from Lincoln, Miller, and others both Newer and older and even compared to the Miller Diversion Pedal that thing with the AHP is not a runner. To each their own though, TIG is all about control, and if you can control the current better with the pedal then you will be miles ahead. I've bolted the AHP POS down to a board, I've set my heel on the pedal, on the box, I've heard people say they bolted a chunk of 2x4 on top of the pedal and set heel on box and manipulated with the toe which seems somewhat awkward. can't really imagine anyone liking that thing. I pretty much have zero control with it because it is pretty much floored, and I just speed up as heat builds up. I'd do as well with a switch and use the ramp controls. Its **** IMHO.

You're welcome to your opinion. I'll stick to mine.

 

[kkroger]

You're welcome to your opinion. I'll stick to mine.

Exactly to each their own, I don't understand it and about Every WELDER doesn't understand it... The Teeny Tiny pedal for the Miller Diversion is "Easier" to use for me than the one with the AHP... I don't get it but all the offshore machines seem to come with some form of this pedal, so I guess overseas that is a popular design, SSC even makes some switch pedals that have a similar look, I've used those and they **** for that as well.

You say you learned on a Dynasty, with a pedal similar to the SSC, but LIKE this one better. OK to each their own. I can USE this pedal, it does **** though. I have the same one at the shop and it ***** there too, bolted to a board so I can sit a stool on it to keep it from running away. My personal opinion does not come without experience. YMMV.

 

[kkroger]

All those upgrades you added is why I went with a Everlast 255DX. did my homework and for 1450 shipped I got an upgraded pedal, better flow meter, super flex17 air cooled torch and a 18 water cooled torch for when I purchase the cooler down the road, or build my own, and the stubby gas lense kits for both torches.

I looked real hard at the alpha before hand, and also the 200DV everlast, but decided to get a bigger and better machine for the long road. I was able to get a better deal going through them direct than going through some place like amazon, weld.com, or eBay, .

Did you know that "AHP" brand name is owned by the wife of the Everlast Owner? and that Longevity is owned by his brother in law or brother?
So most likely all made in the same factory. Thought that was interesting (and not necessarily in a good way) And with all my additions I am still less than the Everlast with cooler (and I have the cooler already) COULD get a similar cooler (Identical to the Everlast and Longevity units) for half the cost of what I got. The GOOD news is my Cooler will work with whatever I may upgrade to in the future...

 

[Kev In]

Here's the cart I built for my AHP.

 

[kkroger]

Here's the cart I built for my AHP.

NICE! How does it not slide off the cart like that? LOL!

 

[kkroger]

I just bought the Klutch cart from Northern, with a $10 off $50 and on sale for $79...

I built Rod Guard holders for the back of it today, took two measurements and drew it up in cad... Cut them on the plasma table from a remnant of 14 ga, Broke em up and Tack Welded them with the MIG. Bolted right on...

 

[txvwnut]

I bought that same cart for my Alpha. I put my plasma cutter on the lower shelf.

 

[kkroger]

I bought that same cart for my Alpha. I put my plasma cutter on the lower shelf.

I put the Arctic Chill Water cooler there.

I do plan to pick up a second cart when I get another $10 off $50 coupon for my Miller 211 MIG welder and the little Hypertherm PM30 will go on the shelf. Wire and consumables in the cabinet. I like it for what it is.

 

[BLACK DEATH]

Bump from the dead.... but I have a question.
What do you think is the thinnest gauge steel, stainless and aluminum you can weld with this machine? Or what is the thinnest you have swelled with it?

 

[ndnchf]

A buddy of mine (much better welder than me) used mine to weld up some pin holes in the skin on his aluminum canoe. Not sure how thick that skin is, but its pretty thin. I've done some practice on aluminum beer cans. It wasn't pretty, but I was able to weld some scraps together.

 

[kkroger]

Lowest Current Setting is 10A, lowest cleaning action is 25%, (75% in normal parlance) I've welded pop cans and box cutter blades... using pulse to manipulate settings, razor blades are too thin... Pop Cans only work on the bottom where it is not drawn as thin.

 

[kkroger]

This was last Thursday's project a skin for a piece of furniture that the I didn't have, the client didn't have the end user doesn't have and a set of dimensions provided by a 4th or 5th party...

.125 5052 Aluminum sheet

Sheared to size on the face plasma cut logo, the top was plasmacut to shape, all the edges were sanded on the belt sander to 120Grit Zirconia.

You can see my prop rest track in the pics a piece of 3/8 Cold Rolled roundbar curved to match the face, held in two Harbor Freight Magnetic indicator stands...

3/32 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, 3/32 5356 Blue Demon Filler Metal, 127 Base Amps, 25 CFH Argon, Ck20 Flex Torch, HF Vulcan gloves are quite nice, go through several sets to find the softest ones.

Tacked at 127A 125Hz on the back side then 5 1" welds to shore it up, then 127A Base 200Hz on the front 200Hz mainly to annoy my co-worker... then sanded and blended out and powder coated with a color to as closely as possible match an unfinished un polished sample of acrylic....

 

[ilovevocs]

This was last Thursday's project a skin for a piece of furniture that the I didn't have, the client didn't have the end user doesn't have and a set of dimensions provided by a 4th or 5th party...



.125 5052 Aluminum sheet



Sheared to size on the face plasma cut logo, the top was plasmacut to shape, all the edges were sanded on the belt sander to 120Grit Zirconia.



You can see my prop rest track in the pics a piece of 3/8 Cold Rolled roundbar curved to match the face, held in two Harbor Freight Magnetic indicator stands...



3/32 2% Lanthanated Tungsten, 3/32 5356 Blue Demon Filler Metal, 127 Base Amps, 25 CFH Argon, Ck20 Flex Torch, HF Vulcan gloves are quite nice, go through several sets to find the softest ones.



Tacked at 127A 125Hz on the back side then 5 1" welds to shore it up, then 127A Base 200Hz on the front 200Hz mainly to annoy my co-worker... then sanded and blended out and powder coated with a color to as closely as possible match an unfinished un polished sample of acrylic....

That is a really nice looking piece. You do amazing work.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... Modified the welder last night adding a 120VAC outlet on the back plane above the circuit breaker so I can leave the cooler on and just flip one switch on the welder, or disarm the cooler when I use an air cooled torch (if I should want too) ...

Assuming the welder has the industry standard NEMA 6-50 plug, you must be using the ground lug as neutral. Tsk, tsk!

 

[kkroger]

Forgot to mention that everything was cleaned with IPA 100% and scrubbed with a brand new never used on ANYTHING Stainless Steel Wire Brush.

 

[kkroger]

Assuming the welder has the industry standard NEMA 6-50 plug, you must be using the ground lug as neutral. Tsk, tsk!

Well they can't decide where to land the grounds and neutrals in any box I have been in because Neutrals are going to the Ground Bar and the Neutral bar and the grounds are going to both as well and most times they are bonded... But that said, assuming that one is using an industry standard configuration for the 120V adapter what must be going on there? Two hots and a ground into the box, the ground is tied to the chassis, the 120 needs Neutral and hot... Hmmmmm

 

[rbgearz]

I've used the Lincolns and Millers at work and would like to have one but did not want to pay alot of money. Bought an Alpha 2 years ago. Would not part with it. It easily compares to the name brands.

 

[Retlaw 66]

I've got one on the way!
What is recommended for welding auto sheetmetal.... is a 3/32" electrode a relatively all-purpose size, or do I need an assortment.... 1/16" for thin, 3/32", and 1/8" for thicker metals?

 

[Chateau Slate 66]

Any opinions on the Firepower Tig 200? I think they are in bed with ESAB. I get decent deals through my NAPA rep, that's why I am looking at these machines.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Well they can't decide where to land the grounds and neutrals in any box I have been in because Neutrals are going to the Ground Bar and the Neutral bar and the grounds are going to both as well and most times they are bonded... But that said, assuming that one is using an industry standard configuration for the 120V adapter what must be going on there? Two hots and a ground into the box, the ground is tied to the chassis, the 120 needs Neutral and hot... Hmmmmm

Safety Sallies would say install a 240V/120V transformer or use a 14-50 plug.