pre-drilling
- Thread starter mishenka
- Start date
BrokewrenchLS1
Well-known member
For a 3", I'd pre-drill because that can be tough for a battery-op drill to handle. 2" or shorter, I wouldn't bother pre-drilling studs for hanging shelves.
JC23
Well-known member
Pre drill. Especially when they are near ends.
Will67
Well-known member
+1 on pre drill on longer screws to avoid cam out of philips bit
Ray-CA
Well-known member
I use these (http://www.grabberman.com/ItemDetai...=+L2P3MIyRNPZk0xBscqzuoABX4bkdoXGGAwW/MI4U7c=)
No pre-drilling, no splitting. Uses a special bit that I have not had "cam" out yet since I started using these about 6-years ago.
Ray
No pre-drilling, no splitting. Uses a special bit that I have not had "cam" out yet since I started using these about 6-years ago.
Ray
darkk
Well-known member
Since I use a corded Makita 3/8" drill, I have no problem just jamming them in there...just need to lean on it.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Another vote for predrill. If not and you don't hit the stud dead center you can cause a split. Especially if you are close to the end of the stud.
Stuey
Well-known member
I'd pre-drill or use self-drilling Spax or similar. Not to make things easier, but to prevent splitting.
ibedayank
Well-known member
What is the general rule for driving a #12 (2'' or 3'') screw into a stud - pre-drill or just screw it in? Hanging some shelves in the garage and appreciate an opinion of a more knowledgeable people in this area than myselfThanks guys.
buy the right screw
griprite
primegaurd plus
high performance exterior screws
they go in like a hot knife through butter
tourqes or square drive...phillips has no place in driving longer screws
with screws pictured i will pull the threads loose or break the screw before the driver bit slips
Attachments
Last edited:
Warrenator
Well-known member
I built a LOT of horse fencing using a plain ol' drill, I would have to predrill the holes just to get the screws in. Drill, switch tools, drive screw in, stall out with 1/2" to go, , remove, drill again, dead battery, frustration. You know the drill. (Ha! I have to laugh at my own jokes, nobody else does)
I saw them demonstrating some brand (think it was Hilti) impact drivers at Home Despot and my jaw just about hit the floor, they were driving 6" long lag bolts into 2X8's with no stalling. Great tool but oh so expensive.
Got myself a Makita impact driver, so very happy with it. Came with a new drill too and a charger for $200. Wish I'd had one years ago. Easily my favorite tool for work around the house. Drives 3" deck screws (not spax or other kind with a drill end, not coated, just regular deck screws) with no stalling even into seasoned high quality lumber. Goes like a knife into butter into the cheap fir new stuff they call lumber around here.
That being said, I do predrill holes if I'm near the end of the board or if alignment is important. Just built a quail coop out of 2X3's and plywood, predrilled most holes so they line up perfectly.
I saw them demonstrating some brand (think it was Hilti) impact drivers at Home Despot and my jaw just about hit the floor, they were driving 6" long lag bolts into 2X8's with no stalling. Great tool but oh so expensive.
Got myself a Makita impact driver, so very happy with it. Came with a new drill too and a charger for $200. Wish I'd had one years ago. Easily my favorite tool for work around the house. Drives 3" deck screws (not spax or other kind with a drill end, not coated, just regular deck screws) with no stalling even into seasoned high quality lumber. Goes like a knife into butter into the cheap fir new stuff they call lumber around here.
That being said, I do predrill holes if I'm near the end of the board or if alignment is important. Just built a quail coop out of 2X3's and plywood, predrilled most holes so they line up perfectly.
Last edited:
Thanks all for great advice. I wish I posted my question before starting driving screws last night. The cheapo regular phillips screws I picked up in homeDepot camout even with me predrilling (perhaps I applied more torque than needed?).
Anyway - I stopped and will go and buy some SPAX (or other high performance) screws as I did see them in HomeDepot. I learn the hard way I do not drive screws on a regular occasions, so I simply did not know and didn't expect camouts. But when choosing the screws I have I specifically asked the guy who works there what is the difference btwn the regular and the SPAX - he couldn't get me a coherent answer. Just told me SPAX are some new screws that they stared to get recently Live and learn - 1.don't buy cheapo screws; 2.don't ask for advice people in HomeDepot
Anyway - I stopped and will go and buy some SPAX (or other high performance) screws as I did see them in HomeDepot. I learn the hard way
I do not drive screws on a regular occasions, so I simply did not know and didn't expect camouts. But when choosing the screws I have I specifically asked the guy who works there what is the difference btwn the regular and the SPAX - he couldn't get me a coherent answer. Just told me SPAX are some new screws that they stared to get recently Live and learn - 1.don't buy cheapo screws; 2.don't ask for advice people in HomeDepotwarrend
Member
wax helps alot also with longer screws...I use a toilet wax ring (they're cheap) and just drag the screw across that before driving. They go in much easier!
Pre-drill all the time. My Makita 18v impact driver, will drive a 4" screw into most anything without pre-drilling. Just do it so you don't split, and you never have to go stocking on fancy screws. Yes there are times you need the good stuff, but not to hang a shelf.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Depends - neatness or soft wood, then pre-drill. Otherwise - drill driver them suckers in. If I had to pre-drill every hole for a 3" screw in my building I'd never get finished. My drill driver puts a 3" deck screw deep in a stud in mere seconds.