Pre-hung doors Airless paint spraying Tips

[branimal]

I've got 8 prehung primed doors arriving tomorrow and I'm trying to figure out a way to connect them all together like an accordian (see pic) to spray them all at once.

In terms of connecting them together I've seen flat brackets in HD that can screw into the top of two doors. They look like an L with pre-drilled holes. The brackets lay flat like a piece of paper. (see pic).



I'm going to remove the doors from the jamb assembly and remove the hinges.



Then get a helper to stand the doors up and start screwing them together. I might place shims under the doors to space them off the floors.



For overspray protection, I'm going to tape plastic to the walls in the vicinity. The floors are subfloor right now.



I think the same strategy can work for the jambs.



Any tips or recommendations?

 

[joyridin]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JR2GTBQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[yeldogt]

Have you done this previously ?

What material are the door made from ?

paint/type .... proper primer? Being pre-primed is not often primed especially if inexpensive pine ... color of top coat?

IMO an easier way is to have them independent .... a scrap stick attached to the top of the door will allow you to lean the door against the wall -- w/ the stick holding it up right. Put them in a row ..

Thin coats .. allow proper drying .. rotate.

Trying to do to fast or two thick will not result in best finish ..

 

[koditten]

Why are aren't you just laying them flat on saw horses? No way I'd paint them standing up.

I'd stain them and water based poly them. You can spray and sand 4 coats in the 1st half of the day.. Do the the other side after lunch.

Yes, that water based poly urethane is that great to work with.

 

[yeldogt]

Why are aren't you just laying them flat on saw horses? No way I'd paint them standing up.

I'd stain them and water based poly them. You can spray and sand 4 coats in the 1st half of the day.. Do the the other side after lunch.

Yes, that water based poly urethane is that great to work with.

Most guys seem to spray them up ... they hang them when they take them back to a shop.

I typically roll/brush a door with BM Advanced -- on saw horses.

 

[branimal]

Have you done this previously ?

What material are the door made from ?

paint/type .... proper primer? Being pre-primed is not often primed especially if inexpensive pine ... color of top coat?

IMO an easier way is to have them independent .... a scrap stick attached to the top of the door will allow you to lean the door against the wall -- w/ the stick holding it up right. Put them in a row ..

Thin coats .. allow proper drying .. rotate.

Trying to do to fast or two thick will not result in best finish ..

I saw video of a guy doing that. It seemed like a good idea, but I like your idea better. I have a long wall where I can setup all the doors.

Top coat is white.

Do you recommend another layer of primer? How many coats of paint sprayed do you recommend?

Thanks

 

[Skiff Builder]

Couple screws in bottom, scrap stick of trim on tops. Paint

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Using a normal, good quality latex door/trim paint (Sherwin emerald urethane enamel, duration satin, pro classic hybrid, but it runs terrible) etc, spraying them standing up will be fine as long as this isn’t your first time spraying.

BUT, if you want that truly flawless finish that will make your friends say wow, find a Sherwin store that carries kem aqua plus from the Sherwood industrial line. It’ll run you 30-35 a gallon, so half the price of the other consumer finishes I mentioned. But, with the doors layer flat, it will level out to a glasslike finish sprayed through a 310 fine finish LP tip.

AND it’s KCMA approved as a cabinet grade finish so it’s much more durable and scrubable then Even emerald urethane is. As the final kicker, being a water based lacquer you can spray the fronts in the morning, and flip three hours later to do the backs. Unlike Benjamin Moore’s advance mentioned earlier that’s like 24hours to flip

 

[Todd.Brock]

When I spray doors, I just lean them up against the wall and spray away. You don’t need the accordion pattern. Start the paint flowing before the door edge and don’t stop until your past the door. I use Sherwin pro classic and it turns out great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kielpo]

Was a painter for years. 2 rows of 1x2 on the ground for the to rest on. Then stand like the accordion pattern you drew and screw two more rows across the top. Doors are off the ground and very sturdy.

 

[yeldogt]

What are the door made from ?

Everyone will have a preferred paint and system --- you get used to a particular product and it's just something you can repeat ....

There are many good products around ... while I have and do spray occasionally -- i'm one of those weird people who prefer a painted surface .. I will roll and brush a wood door for example. I'm not going for Ikea shine ..

But -- Some MDF doors look best sprayed. It's been my experience that all the the pre-primed stuff benefits when you use the correct primer for the paint system. Most of the pre primed products primer is very hard with little stick ...

The only reason I like the doors in a row -- again.. I'm not a professional painter -- spraying all the time. I am OCD .... just find it easier to have every door at the same angle and orientation. This way each door is the same .. I can see the door ... I'm not going to knock it over. Also take my time.

My mention of Advanced in an earlier post -- was for roll/brush. It's a water based oil product from Ben Moore -- you can spray it -- but, it tricky and can run. If I do a door with that I do it horizontal -- light coats. It's my go to trim paint for my personal homes -- unless I'm using one of the British

White is forgiving. Frankly -- Ben Moore Regal trim paint is easy to use with a proper small roller cover

 

[FANTM58]

The accordion method works great, I secured mine by laying some
Simple cheap 1” fir strips on the floor , to get the bottom off the floor.2 strips and then one at the top
Nailed to the top of the doors..

 

[CraigStu]

If you accordion them how do you run your spray pattern off the edges of the door? You would be on the next door. Spray moving the gun vertically?

 

[yeldogt]

If you accordion them how do you run your spray pattern off the edges of the door? You would be on the next door. Spray moving the gun vertically?

This is where being a pro is important

.. familiar with a particular paint product -- sprayer and tip size ... method of work. It's second nature .. may be the quickest way for them to work.

Depending on the product -- the angled accordion method may cut down on overspray?

There is also "quality of work" -- not every method is going to give you the same outcome. Pros want to match speed with quality needed ....

 

[branimal]

Sorry for the delayed response. Things have been a little crazy in NYC.

I’m not sure what material the doors are made of. I’ve included some pics. Not sure if the primer the doors guys slapped on is adequate.

If laying the doors on sawhorses can get me a better finish, I’ll do that. I’m a novice @ airless paint spraying.

@scottydosnntkno - 310 tip… good "tip". I was going to just use the tip that came with my sprayer. 515. I see HD has a 311 tip in stock near me.

I’m going to get a lot of sh*t for admitting this but I’m planning on using PPG Diamond Satin finish paint from Home depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PPG-Dia...terior-Paint-and-Primer-GLD-7311-05/206751540

Thanks guys.

 

[yeldogt]

Who ever you purchased the door from should be able to tell you -- the rail looks like masonite -- they typically have wood strips around the edges. Wood at the lock. Don't cut much off the bottom.

The only way you can tell about spraying for the first time -- is to try it out .. practice. Maybe not on a door for the first shot. I can't give any advise on the paint .. it would be my choice.

Can't judge the primer over the internet -- 4 hinges is nice.

They would be easy doors to roll with the proper equipment and a quality trim paint.


I test everything ....

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Sorry for the delayed response. Things have been a little crazy in NYC.

I’m not sure what material the doors are made of. I’ve included some pics. Not sure if the primer the doors guys slapped on is adequate.

If laying the doors on sawhorses can get me a better finish, I’ll do that. I’m a novice @ airless paint spraying.

@scottydosnntkno - 310 tip… good "tip". I was going to just use the tip that came with my sprayer. 515. I see HD has a 311 tip in stock near me.

I’m going to get a lot of sh*t for admitting this but I’m planning on using PPG Diamond Satin finish paint from Home depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PPG-Dia...terior-Paint-and-Primer-GLD-7311-05/206751540

Thanks guys.

as a novice, you will 100% get a better finish spraying them flat on sawhorses.

311 will be fine. its not a "fine finish" tip, but spraying latex, on the flat, you'll be just fine with it since it'll have time to level out. most latex's want at least a .011 tip anyways, its the waterborne lacuquers and true lacquers than can go smaller due to the molecular structure.

 

[SGKent]

One year I screwed two eye bolts into the top of each door after prepping it on saw horses. Then hung them over rafters in the garage with parachute cord, and sprayed them. You can just as easily lay them out on a saw horse, and do one side at a time. Painting is a gift. Take your time and enjoy it. The more you rush the less you will enjoy it. You probably will want to fit all of them before you paint them because you may have to trim the bottoms.

 

[branimal]

@yeldogt - good reminder to test spray first.

@scottydosnntkno - I was looking at Graco's spray chart. Looks like a .013 tip opening is the minimum tip size for interior paint. That would make the 313 tip the best choice. Giving me a 6" fan width. Does that sound right? Or should I go with the 311 tip? Chart below. I'm using the Graco Magnum X7.

 

[Donzi camino]

Here is what you do. Go buy a roll of contractor paper and about 10 pieces of 1x2 @HD. Roll out paper on ground and make a spot to set up doors. Put 2 parallel sticks on paper to keep doors off the ground. Zig zag 2 rows of four doors side by side leaving enough room to be able to walk and spray between. Nail a stick on top of the row of 4 to keep together and a stick joining the 2 rows. This keeps them sturdy and wont let blow down. Cut the paint about 15% with water and use a 311 tip. Note, laying horizontal will take you so much time moving and waiting to dry and cure to turn over. Also, more trash from the air falls on to the surface laying horizontal. fyi, most door manufactures void warranty if not primed top and bottom.

 

[branimal]

When laying the doors flat should i paint lengthwise or width-wise?

I'd like to paint a few doors at the same time but I only have one set of sawhorses.

Can I lay them on 5 gallon buckets? Got plenty of buckets... Maybe a piece of cardboard on top of the buckets to prevents the buckets edges from digging into the door.

Last question.... Do I need to protect the underside of the door from overspray? By running a masking tape & paper on the underside of the door?

 

[scottydosnntkno]

When laying the doors flat should i paint lengthwise or width-wise?

I'd like to paint a few doors at the same time but I only have one set of sawhorses.

Can I lay them on 5 gallon buckets? Got plenty of buckets... Maybe a piece of cardboard on top of the buckets to prevents the buckets edges from digging into the door.

Last question.... Do I need to protect the underside of the door from overspray? By running a masking tape & paper on the underside of the door?

Five gallon buckets will be fine, just make sure the floors vacuumed so you don’t kick up dust. If doing what coat, spray them vertically. If two, do a crosshatch. As a newbie, you’re more likely to mess up 3x as many horizontal sprays as vertical sprays. If you don’t lap enough, you’ll see dry spray lines.

I wouldn’t about the bottoms, latex falls fast. Spray the edges at a downward s for and you’ll be fine

 

[branimal]

Five gallon buckets will be fine, just make sure the floors vacuumed so you don’t kick up dust. If doing what coat, spray them vertically. If two, do a crosshatch. As a newbie, you’re more likely to mess up 3x as many horizontal sprays as vertical sprays. If you don’t lap enough, you’ll see dry spray lines.

I wouldn’t about the bottoms, latex falls fast. Spray the edges at a downward s for and you’ll be fine

I painted 2 doors yesterday. Overall things went well. Much smoother finish then when I painted similar doors 2 years ago with a roller and paint brush.

I laid the doors flat and used the 311 tip, diluted the paint 8%. I didn't want to add too much water and ruin the paint. I painted 2 coats. I set the pressure at about 1600 psi. (A little past halfway on the graco x7)

Couple of questions:
* Near the panel edges, I got a little bit of buildup. First time it happened I thought it was b/c the doors weren’t leveled and the paint ran to one side. The second time the high side had the buildup. So it’s not a leveling issue. Why is that happening? And how can I fix it? See pic.
* I painted the sides, top and bottoms of the door with a 3” roller. I didn’t spray it b/c I’m afraid of overspray. I'll try spraying them downward. When I spray the sides, do I spray them first and then the door face?
* Is spraying 2 coats recommended or is one adequate?
* Near the panel edges, there is a slight gap. Should I fill that with latex caulk and then paint?
* Some of the doors have slight damage from transport. Little indentations. Can I fill with DAP Plastic wood? Or is there a better product? Link below.

DAP:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Plastic-Wood-6-oz-White-Latex-Wood-Filler-00585/206667343

 

[yeldogt]

My guess is it was too thin -- and built up due to surface tension.

I would roll the edges first and be done with it.

Coats are coverage and durability

 

[scottydosnntkno]

I painted 2 doors yesterday. Overall things went well. Much smoother finish then when I painted similar doors 2 years ago with a roller and paint brush.

I laid the doors flat and used the 311 tip, diluted the paint 8%. I didn't want to add too much water and ruin the paint. I painted 2 coats. I set the pressure at about 1600 psi. (A little past halfway on the graco x7)

Couple of questions:
* Near the panel edges, I got a little bit of buildup. First time it happened I thought it was b/c the doors weren’t leveled and the paint ran to one side. The second time the high side had the buildup. So it’s not a leveling issue. Why is that happening? And how can I fix it? See pic.
* I painted the sides, top and bottoms of the door with a 3” roller. I didn’t spray it b/c I’m afraid of overspray. I'll try spraying them downward. When I spray the sides, do I spray them first and then the door face?
* Is spraying 2 coats recommended or is one adequate?
* Near the panel edges, there is a slight gap. Should I fill that with latex caulk and then paint?
* Some of the doors have slight damage from transport. Little indentations. Can I fill with DAP Plastic wood? Or is there a better product? Link below.

DAP:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Plastic-Wood-6-oz-White-Latex-Wood-Filler-00585/206667343

As a newbie your tendency will be to start and stop on the door, not off it. You want your hand moving, off the door, and pull the trigger before your on the door. So your spraying and moving 3-6” before being actually over the door.

Also looks like maybe you sprayed the edges of the recesses first before the panels. You can slightly angle your hand and spray the vertical at the same time as the flat. So you start off the door, angled away from the door slightly, come on the door, straighten over the panel, angle the other way before the other panel side and spray off the door. So kinda like making a slight W shape with your hand to get all five surfaces of the door at once

 

[branimal]

I’m starting to paint the jambs laying them on 5-gallon buckets. I end up flipping them over after a couple of hours and spray the other side. Not as efficient as leaning them on the walls. I’m hesitant to lean them on the walls b/c I’m afraid the overspray is going to hit my ceiling (already painted). Door jambs are 8’. Is there a better way?


UPDATE on the doors:
* They turned out great - thanks for all the advice and tips. 2 coats each side. Way better than if I used a roller and brush. The finish is so smooth, I almost wished I went semi-gloss instead of satin. I always worry when using shinier paints and roller marks.
* There’s is a bit of a haze on them when you look at certain angle in the light, but i seems like I can buff that haze out with a clean rag.
* I used a lot of paint. When I factor in 2 coats of paint I calc 640 sq ft of coverage for 8 doors. I used 4+ gallons of paint. Each gallon is supposed to cover 300-400 sq ft. If we say I only realistically get 300 sq ft / per gallon x 4 gallons = 1200 sq ft. I painted 640 sq ft with 4 gallons. That’s a factor of 2x. Am I laying the paint on to thick? One 8’ pass takes me about 6-7 seconds. Am I moving too slow?
* Even though I thinned the paint with about 8-10% water, the 311 tip was constantly getting clogged. I strained the paint and mixed it before every door. Still getting jammed up. I called Graco and they said the minimum tip size they’d use is a 313 with latex paint.

Again - thanks for all the advice!

 

[scottydosnntkno]

I’m starting to paint the jambs laying them on 5-gallon buckets. I end up flipping them over after a couple of hours and spray the other side. Not as efficient as leaning them on the walls. I’m hesitant to lean them on the walls b/c I’m afraid the overspray is going to hit my ceiling (already painted). Door jambs are 8’. Is there a better way?


UPDATE on the doors:
* They turned out great - thanks for all the advice and tips. 2 coats each side. Way better than if I used a roller and brush. The finish is so smooth, I almost wished I went semi-gloss instead of satin. I always worry when using shinier paints and roller marks.
* There’s is a bit of a haze on them when you look at certain angle in the light, but i seems like I can buff that haze out with a clean rag.
* I used a lot of paint. When I factor in 2 coats of paint I calc 640 sq ft of coverage for 8 doors. I used 4+ gallons of paint. Each gallon is supposed to cover 300-400 sq ft. If we say I only realistically get 300 sq ft / per gallon x 4 gallons = 1200 sq ft. I painted 640 sq ft with 4 gallons. That’s a factor of 2x. Am I laying the paint on to thick? One 8’ pass takes me about 6-7 seconds. Am I moving too slow?
* Even though I thinned the paint with about 8-10% water, the 311 tip was constantly getting clogged. I strained the paint and mixed it before every door. Still getting jammed up. I called Graco and they said the minimum tip size they’d use is a 313 with latex paint.

Again - thanks for all the advice!

i've never sprayed the jambs laying down, as we always spray the whole trim pack (casing, top trim, base trim, window trim, wainscoting) as one after its installed/caulked/filled/sanded. Those might be a good option for a couple finish nails stuck into the outside edge at an angle to hold them off the floor. spray one side, and by the time you get through the whole set (20-30mins) it'll be set enough you can flip them all with a helper, and spray the other side of them.

the haze may be overspray if you can buff it off. while the first door looks wet, its actually starting to skin over. you should use an exhaust fan even if its just a box fan out the window. if your room looks foggy when your done spraying latex, you need MORE ventilation. its not toxic per say, but it will affect your overall finish.

on the coverage you also lose some material in the setup and cleanup. but make it up in speed. depending on how long your hose is, a 50ft hose holds about 1 quart of paint. figure a half quart to prime the pump, and a 1/2 qt lost to mixing the hose water into the paint, and your at 1/2 gallon. plus 1/2 quart on the back end cleaning the pump, and 1/2 quart or so if you clean out the hose and stop before you get the water coming into the save bucket. we usually plan to lose 1 gallon a day spraying. also sounds like your going to slow/applying too heavy. i timed some today and am around 3.5-3 seconds for a standard 7' door per pass.

did you strain the paint? latex is notoriously gummy and gloppy. it looks smooth in the can, but put it through a strainer and you'd be surprised. they sell them at home depot/sherwin by the spray supplies. 1 gallon ones are like $2 and five gallon ones are $4, usually they each come 2 per pack. you can strain your whole days worth with one strainer in the morning and have zero clogs all day.

 

[Justin James]

Check the filters in the machine and the handle of the spray gun. They may be damaged, clogged, or missing. Don't step up to the 313, the 311 is fine if your spraying them on the flat. I would not thin the paint but that is my preference. 6 to 7 seconds to make one pass seems awful slow and may explain your paint usage though the coverage numbers on the can are simply a guideline. I always did mine standing up in the accordian fashion you were describing earlier, but on the jobsite space could be at a premium.