precise portable table saw

[treesner]

Looking into getting a portable table saw but all the reviews I read seem to come from more of the contractor/construction types. Was looking for some opinions from the precision side of things.

Would be using it for furniture and instruments doing things like ripping 8/4 walnut, cutting datos and for other joinery needs. Not to worried about cutting plywood, could always use skill saw or build an outfeed table.

My shop space is 8x10 shed with stairs + outside and I plan to move around the next couple of years so portable saw would be best.

Leaning toward the Bosch 4100 (with blade upgrade and rousseau table) but started considering the sawstop jobsite saw.


Here’s the specs i’ve pulled:

Saw stop job site // $1,399 (with cart)
-25.5” rip size
-3 1/8 depth
-79 lb (without cart) 108lb (with cart)
-15apm (slightly less power than bosch)
*-fence good reviews
-dados: 8”
-table: 43-3/8 x 22-5/8
Upgrades:
-blade: hear the stock blade is good
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: stock fence seems good, rousseau available nov2
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1666


Bosch 4100 10” // $538 (without cart)
-25” rip size
-99 lbs
-15 amp (known for being most powerful)
-fence doesn’t look good
-dados 8” 3/4”
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: Rousseau 2776 table: $430
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1322

Dewalt 7490 10” // $500 (without cart)
-28” rip size
-90 lbs
-15 amp (not as powerful as bosch)
*-fence has good reviews
-dados (745 does not) 8” up to 13/16
-table: 21-7/8 x 26-38
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
*-fence: Rousseau available nov2: ~$430
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1282


Dewalt 7480 10” // $400 (without wheels)
-24” rip size
*-67 lb
-15 amps at 4800 rpm
*-fence has good reviews
**-dados: mfg and reviews says doesn’t accept but one person said you could put 8” and "on the 745 and 7480 the back nut and the back flange are combined. The result is a slightly smaller assembly and the flange can't be removed, so no 13/16 dados. That said it looks 3/8 dado would be totally fine."
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: Rousseau 2745 table: $380
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1006

Or moving into the bigger belt driven saws but I feel like it’s not the right time in my life as i’ll be moving around a lot and don’t have my own home

Jet jps-10ts 10” // $1214
-30” rip size
*-325 lbs (very heavy)
**-table 27 x 44 (very big)
**-not sure if this is 120 or 220
Upgrades:
*-wouldn’t need fence upgrade
*-maybe wouldn’t need a miter gauge, big enough for a sled
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1426



Any thoughts?
-chris

 

[theoldwizard1]

... doing things like ripping 8/4 walnut, ...

Seriously ? You are going to need to need at least 3hp, maybe 5, to do that ! You aren't going to find that in any contractor saw.

Also for really precise cuts your going to need a really excellent fence system, like a Biesemeyer.

I don't care what you are building, you are going to have to cut sheet goods (plywood). This requires infeed, outfeed and side tables/extensions.


Best bang for the buck : Find a 10+ year old Craftsman 10" table saw with a 2HP belt drive motor and cast iron right and left cast iron extensions. You should be able to find one of these for less than $250. Don't immediately toss the fence. With some adjustments that are fine.

 

[woody 73]

OP since you did not put your home city under your name I have no way to look at your local CL...So as a good example of something that YOU CAN PUT ON WHEELS AND MOVE ALL OVER YOUR SHOP:

Look for something like the following that will take good care of you for years to come:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5173480849.html

Now I understand you have space issues with a small man cave but you will outgrow a small unit in no time and then you will have to sell it and move up to a bigger unit; don't get me wrong It can be done with small saws but cutting large bulky items gets to be a pain in the **** after a while.

Your call.

 

[treesner]

OP since you did not put your home city under your name I have no way to look at your local CL...So as a good example of something that YOU CAN PUT ON WHEELS AND MOVE ALL OVER YOUR SHOP:

Look for something like the following that will take good care of you for years to come:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5173480849.html

Now I understand you have space issues with a small man cave but you will outgrow a small unit in no time and then you will have to sell it and move up to a bigger unit; don't get me wrong It can be done with small saws but cutting large bulky items gets to be a pain in the **** after a while.

Your call.

hey there i'm out in santa cruz, ca

I don't really even have room to wheel it around, my space is tight. looking to pick it up, carry down a few stairs and setup outside or throw in my van

 

[woody 73]

This the size you are looking for?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/5205784025.html

By the way just which city close to you has the CL ?

 

[beakie]

Seriously ? You are going to need to need at least 3hp, maybe 5, to do that ! You aren't going to find that in any contractor saw.

Also for really precise cuts your going to need a really excellent fence system, like a Biesemeyer.

I don't care what you are building, you are going to have to cut sheet goods (plywood). This requires infeed, outfeed and side tables/extensions.

if you can't cut 8/4 hardwood with 1.5hp motor you may want to get your blade sharpened, or use the right blade.
so an delta contractor saw, with the delta fence would work great.

as for sheet goods. rough cut with circular saw and a good straight edge (or better yet get a good track saw and never use the table saw for sheet goods again)



just read about wanting to pick up/roll around... you won't be doing that with an old saw.

I would look at any of the newer compact/portable saws you mentioned. the saws all do the same thing, so find the one with the best fence, and expect to replace the blade. If any have a riving knife (doubtful) or splitter, that's a bonus.

I would NOT waste MY $$ on a sawstop. I understand others will and I don't fault them. But a saw used safely and responsibly does not require that technology or the crazy pricetag that comes with it. Leave the blade guard in place, use push sticks, and be mindful of where you are in relation to the work piece, blade, possible kickback, etc and you will fine.

 

[Ainsley]

Based on your workspace I think that you're looking at the right type of saw. As nice as a cabinet saw would be you definitely don't have the room for it.
I have the ridgid job site saw but a definite step up would be the Bosch version.
Lots you can do with these saws with the proper jigs and support, I even made a router table insert for my saw.

 

[trainer]

I've made some pretty complex projects with a cheap $100 Delta bench saw. I've built several cedar-strip canoes and a couple of sets of kitchen cabinets.

It has literally ripped miles of cedar , pine, and oak.


As long as you put a good blade in it and set it up out of the box it will get the job done. I've abused mine, left it out in the rain all summer and bounced it around in the back of my pickup. It still works and it's light enough to take with me and it will run well off of a small generator.

It takes some patience to set the fence parallel to the blade on every cut but if you understand the limitations and how to overcome them, you can get very good results every time.

Make sure that whatever you choose that it has a long enough arbour to handle a dado set.

I've recently bought a used 3hp, 240 v cast iron beast of a saw, but im going to keep my old saw for it's portability.

 

[cheechi]

I have the ridgid job site saw but a definite step up would be the Bosch version.

I'd like to know more about this.

if all your pieces are small, and you have the control to go slow cutting, you could feasibly do whatever you want with any table saw. Contractor saws aren't underpowered compared to their 115v workshop counterparts, for the most part. My portable saw is 15A. The stability though of a cabinet saw really helps when you are working with hard woods. Even if you have good level ground, and a higher end portable or cart/stand for it, they do tend to twist under load and generally the higher you have the blade (since 8/4 was used as an example) the more it can happen and throw your cut off. The higher end fences as far as I know you can make it work and they might even sell you the parts to do it, but they are designed for cabinet saws and that's where they really excel. and infeed/outfeed/side extensions aren't typically as easy or as good on portable saws since that's not what they are designed to do.

It's not impossible. It's just going to need a steadier hand and more meticulous setup and care while cutting than a cabinet saw would need. For what you want to do it sounds like you need to make the room for a cabinet saw which you can take off the fence and use as an assembly table or general project table with the outfeed and side tables or extensions.

 

[tyyost]

I have used a variety of table saws over my career, and would suggest the Bosch 4100. I currently use one for all my table saw needs as my cabinet saw is ******* in storage. While 2" oak or walnut isn't something I'd want to cut daily without a nice low tooth the ripping blade it would cut it all day long for you.

I bought the table insert for dadoes but I have never tried, my go to on dadoes has been my router for some time. Often dadoes I cut are in long awkward parts that sliding across a small saw with a miter gauge or sled would make difficult, so tool guides and spiral bits let me cut the dadoes across both sides in one setup. The beauty of woodworking is that unlike metalworking many tools can do similar jobs, so developing proficiency with a router will let you do many things. Same for table saws, ripping, crosscutting, grooving, dadoes are all doable based on your skill and patience.

I also really like the guard and splitter on the 4100, and I often use them more than other saws I have worked with in the past. The gravity rise stand is awesome and helps me store the saw as well as stays sturdy no matter where I set up.

 

[carbon]

Well, this one is probably the top end portable in the world.

http://timberwolftools.com/tools/mafell/MAF-ERIKA70Ec.html

Mafell makes tools that beat festool in tests. Top of the top. Above is the sole USA distributor to my knowledge.

 

[Ainsley]

Ouch, that saw is pricey!

I have put together some extra fences that really increase the potential accuracy of my portable saw.

Some proper out feed support helps too

You can upgrade the dust collection too:

 

[eddiemeddiem]

I just picked up the Bosch 4100 with gravity rise stand off of craigslist two weeks ago. It's a really nice saw, especially when you take the time to align the blade and set up the fence properly. I suggest getting one and taking the time to set it up right, you may very well be happy with the fence. The gravity rise stand is very handy, but you could remove and store it for a couple years of its inconvenient for you on the stairs. I'd also wait on a new blade and mitre gauge til you play with what comes with the saw.

 

[carbon]

Just looked around the web a bit more and see Mafell also makes cheaper/smaller and pricier/bigger versions too. They seem to be 230 volt only through, whereas the one I linked to was available in 110v or 230v. The "cheaper" one looks to be ~$1800.

Side note: Mafell's rip fence (not included) is $340.20! And the sliding table attachment is $622.70! More than the Bosch or Ridgid entire saw and dolly! Lol.

 

[Mikerodrig27]

This the size you are looking for?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/5205784025.html

By the way just which city close to you has the CL ?

That ridgid saw is a great saw:http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...Portable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4513/100090444

It's a great saw at a pretty decent price considering the features and id check but I think it has a lifetime warranty. You can get one new and worse case scenario you can return it and get your money back...

sometimes you have to tune them up a bit but one thing they are known for is their awesome fence system for a portable saw.

You had talked about the outfeed table. Personally, I think a roller would be easier to set up and serve the same purpose.

 

[carbon]

Better than rollers are those large ball bearing rollers, as they don't draw the work one way or another if they aren't perfectly aligned with the direction the wood is going. And better than the ball bearing rollers are Ridgid Flip Top Portable Work Supports http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Flip-Top-Portable-Work-Support-AC9934/100618242

I have a couple and man do they rock. They extend tall enough for my Delta 14" bandsaw, are lightweight, work great as light sawhorses, fold up nice, and are pretty inexpensive. I heard they had some problems years ago but they fixed them, and of course they have the lifetime warranty, which I (of course) was too lazy to sign up for.

 

[PugetDude]

Here's your answer...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S5S5CW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[wildbill23c]

The Bosch, Dewalt, or the Ridgid jobsite saws will get the job done for you, while remaining light weight enough to be able to load into your vehicle.

I seriously wouldn't waste money on the Sawstop or Jet. They're just over-priced for no more than what they do. Jet seems to overprice a lot of their stuff and Sawstop...well that's just a tool that has become popular because of the blade safety system...keep your hands away from the blade...that's what push sticks/blocks are for.

I have a Ridgid contractor saw, while its a great saw, and very stable, it is not exactly portable unless you have a nice flat concrete floor right up to a trailer with a ramp on it to be able to roll it in and out of your shop or trailer. They're not exactly light weight and not really very portable. First thing I did after I got my saw put together and everything aligned was changed the wiring on the motor so I could plug it into a 220V outlet. Most of the jobsite saws I've ever seen are 110V only. They'll get the job done, you just have to go a little slower on the heavier materials is all.

 

[TomB19]

I have the DeWalt 744 because I believe in the rack and pinion fence. It is accurate and precise.

With a good blade and some tuning, I was able to align the 744 such that cuts came out perfectly, just like a well set up cabinet saw. I didn't need to use the jointer. They rips were ready to glue-up, even for furniture.

The thing is, that plastic body is not rigid enough to hold the saw in calibration. It's a portable saw. It's not going to be as stable as a cabinet saw, even for working with tiny pieces.

Portable saws are fantastic for what they do but they have limitations. They are still good enough to make furniture with, though. The TS is mostly (but not entirely) for rough dimensioning, anyway.

 

[treesner]

Ouch, that saw is pricey!

I have put together some extra fences that really increase the potential accuracy of my portable saw.

This looks like a cool setup @ainsley, you should a youtube video on it, would love to check it out further

 

[jake00]

For those who bash sawstop, I've had their industrial cabinet saw in my production shop for 2 years now. Sure it was expensive (4k), and sure the guards should stay on, when you're ripping, crosscut ing, swapping out various sleds and jigs, and cutting small pieces 10 hours a day, I'd rather buy a 60 buck cartridge than file a WC claim and lose an employee for a week or more.....

 

[wildbill23c]

For those who bash sawstop, I've had their industrial cabinet saw in my production shop for 2 years now. Sure it was expensive (4k), and sure the guards should stay on, when you're ripping, crosscut ing, swapping out various sleds and jigs, and cutting small pieces 10 hours a day, I'd rather buy a 60 buck cartridge than file a WC claim and lose an employee for a week or more.....

I understand what you are getting at, however common sense plays a huge roll in tool operation. You end up paying for a name after a while rather than the actual tool...and Sawstop is one of those companies. I just wish the local stores actually sold the higher end Sawstop saws rather than the smaller ones that only run on 110V. I also don't have room in my shop for the nice large Sawstop I want LOL. I can't remember the price on it but it has like a 52" rip capacity.

They make great saws don't get me wrong, but there comes a point where you have to stop and think...is it really worth it, or should I just keep my hands away from the blade LOL.

I've also heard if you send Sawstop a written description along with your used cartridge and blade they'll send you a replacement cartridge for sharing with them what you did to set off the mechanism. Pretty dang cool.

I wonder if this technology will ever make it into other brand tools? I think there was a lawsuit against Sawstop regarding something along those lines.

 

[404]

Used Inca saw.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/31526

 

[treesner]

Used Inca saw.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/31526

Can you tell me more?

They do look compact and swiss made.
However seems hard to find parts and the table tilting opposed to the blade tilting seems like a bad idea.

Here's one a few hours from me for ~$500
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/5199587016.html

 

[404]

Can you tell me more?

They do look compact and swiss made.
However seems hard to find parts and the table tilting opposed to the blade tilting seems like a bad idea.

Here's one a few hours from me for ~$500
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/5199587016.html

Your analysis is correct. It is very small when seen in person. The tilt table is something people seem to get used to. I assume the table design lets the saw be as small as it is. Back when I was buying my table saw, I got a Powermatic I66 5HP Baldor instead of the Inca, they were both about the same price. But then again I had the room. Here is a forum post from people who like them.

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/inca-table-saw

 

[tarbellb]

I have only been in the industry for 10 yrs, but I know lots of guys who have been slinging wood for more and are very portable (lots of onsite installs like bars & restaurants).

That being said, ive heard the Dewalt 744 is the best compromise for portability. The Ridgid and Bosch are also highly rated.

That and to repeat Carbon- the Ridgid Flip Top stands are amazing. - http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Flip-Top-Portable-Work-Support-AC9934/100618242

 

[carbon]

Hey tarbellb, glad you agree. And I have a Dewalt 745 for my one table saw, as I too have no room. It's pretty nice. You can dado with it even though dewalt says you can't. Just use the Freud Sbox8 box joint blades http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ASGV1E/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[beakie]

I understand what you are getting at, however common sense plays a huge roll in tool operation. You end up paying for a name after a while rather than the actual tool...and Sawstop is one of those companies. I just wish the local stores actually sold the higher end Sawstop saws rather than the smaller ones that only run on 110V. I also don't have room in my shop for the nice large Sawstop I want LOL. I can't remember the price on it but it has like a 52" rip capacity.

They make great saws don't get me wrong, but there comes a point where you have to stop and think...is it really worth it, or should I just keep my hands away from the blade LOL.

I've also heard if you send Sawstop a written description along with your used cartridge and blade they'll send you a replacement cartridge for sharing with them what you did to set off the mechanism. Pretty dang cool.

I wonder if this technology will ever make it into other brand tools? I think there was a lawsuit against Sawstop regarding something along those lines.

Bosch is currently bringing their version to market.
And of course the creator of sawstop, who wanted to force all makers to use his technology (he is a lawyer) is now fighting Bosch since they have developed their own technology.

another reason to stear clear of sawstop

 

[Marv's Shop]

I've got the DeWalt DWE7491RS. Has worked great so far for the 6 months I've had it. Really like the DeWalt rack & pinion fence adjustment.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-10-in-Jobsite-Table-Saw-with-Rolling-Stand-DWE7491RS/204512007

 

[404]

Bosch is currently bringing their version to market.
And of course the creator of sawstop, who wanted to force all makers to use his technology (he is a lawyer) is now fighting Bosch since they have developed their own technology.

another reason to stear clear of sawstop

 

[treesner]

Yesterday I was able to see all 3 saws i'm considering in person, play around with the fence/adjustment/stand ect. And I have to say it brought the dewalt 7490 back into the discussion for me (great back to more options, hah). They all had nice feeling tables and they all felt pretty heavy. The sawstop JSS didn't really seem to stand out in terms of build quality, the bad micro adjustment and fast up and down action was really nice though. Bosch 4100 seemed ok, fence was kind of rickety. Overall the Dewalt 7490 had a nice open design of the body (less plastic) and the fence system worked great form what experimented with, the stand is a saw horse design so I could split up the weight instead of picking up stand+wheeled cart like the others.


Dewalt 7490 // $500 (with sawhorse stand (the7491 has wheels/32" rip capacity)
-overall build quality was really nice, I like the open design, less plastic
-Fence was the best i’d tried, could easily square it up lock from and back then use the hand crank to move forward back
-Sawhorse stand, split up the weight easier (but no wheels)


Bosch 4100 // $600 (with cart)
-plastic body wasn’t appealing
-fence was ok, not that smooth and felt like I would have to double measure to keep in square every time


Sawstop Jop Site Saw // $1,399 (with cart)
-build quality didn’t feel like it was worth the huge price jump
-fence was decent
-had the best blade adjustment, fast up and down + only saw with fine tuning of blade angle



Making me think that I should go with the 7490, buy multiple blades for different jobs: rip, cross, dado, a nice miter gauge, and sled.

 

[todd_fuller]

Look into making a Paulk bench. I have a Bosch 4100, Rousseau table and a big Paulk bench for outfeed. Overall, once you dial-in the Rousseau table, it's pretty good.

One thing to look out for on the joist saws is the max dado blade size, some are a little lacking. I would also recommend the 6" Freud dado set over the 8" and some Veritas dado shims since it's pretty tight getting the shims right and the arbor can chew them up.

Added: Also get at least 1 MicroJig Grr-Ripper.

 

[jar944]

The 4100 would be my pick if I was in the market for a job site saw.

 

[Sal Bandini]

Did you actually measure the parallelism of the Bosch 4100 fence? Mine locks in place parallel to blade every time.

Best portable saw in my opinion. I have made cabinets, face frames, and ripped/crosscut wood for door glue ups and it works great every time.

 

[marius_nortje]

Found a saw on g list owner not sure of model number. Could it be a 4100 ?
Thx

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

 

[marius_nortje]

One more

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

 

[carbon]

I think that's the little brother of the 4100. Go to bosch's site to see. I don't think it's as universally praised.

 

[carbon]

Unless you're in Europe. Then all bets are off.

 

[marius_nortje]

Thx

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

[72Anthony]

I have the Bosch 4100 with gravity rise stand and have been very pleased with it. Of course it's not the same as a multi thousand dollar 3 or 5 HP cabinet saw.

Using a glue-line rip blade I've made cuts in 6/4 white oak without any problems. You can't feed it as fast as a more powerful saw, but I didn't get any binding or burning.

Have also cut a lot of plywood with a fine tooth combination blade and dado set.