Preference on wire for trailer lights?

[Oxford2]

Good afternoon-

Recently upgraded my livestock trailer situation considerably. Only thing that isn't what I want is the electrical system- the usual conglomeration of **** connectors and ScotchLok connectors. I've wired several trailers, I've used a pile of 3M heatshrink connectors, and I understand the theory and best practices. What I'm wondering is: do you guys have a source/specification for the actual conductors that you use? I see on the usual online sources that you can get color coded conductors, but lots of them are copper clad aluminum and I'm not going to use that. Any thoughts would be greatly welcomed.

Thanks!!

 

[joe6344]

Extension cords work real well.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[smokeysevin]

I really like to use ancor marine wire, it is tinned copper and comes in single conductor and sleeved multi conductors.

Sean

 

[Wrench97]

Go to a truck parts store and get whatever length or 4 or 7 conductor cable you need.
White is ground
Yellow is Left turn
Green is right turn
Brown for Tail
7 wire will give you extra for house lights or back up lights if you so desire.

 

[Lwel9226]

Go to a truck parts store and get whatever length or 4 or 7 conductor cable you need.
White is ground
Yellow is Left turn
Green is right turn
Brown for Tail
7 wire will give you extra for house lights or back up lights if you so desire.

What he said plus... Brown also does clearance lites
Blue for trailer brakes
Black for hot if you have an on board battery... or house lites etc.
Red will usually do backup lites or ????

LynnW

 

[Badhabit]

People have the colour code right and I also like to solder the connections at the pigtails and then cover with heat shrink

H

 

[Steve W.]

The color codes for the 4-pin and 7-pin connectors are (almost) completely different.
The only wire that retains the same color and function is WHITE for GROUND.

4-pin:
Brown - tail/marker
Yellow - left turn/brake
Green - right turn/brake
White - ground

RV 7-pin: (trucks are different)
Black - battery +
Green - tail/marker
Red - left turn/brake
Brown - right turn/brake
Blue - electric brakes
White - ground
Yellow - backup lights or accessory

.

 

[moab11]

The color codes for the 4-pin and 7-pin connectors are (almost) completely different.
The only wire that retains the same color and function is WHITE for GROUND.

4-pin:
Brown - tail/marker
Yellow - left turn/brake
Green - right turn/brake
White - ground

RV 7-pin: (trucks are different)
Black - battery +
Green - tail/marker
Red - left turn/brake
Brown - right turn/brake
Blue - electric brakes
White - ground
Yellow - backup lights or accessory

.

Exactly, can't understand why the color codes had to change between the two. Makes for some fun troubleshooting until I remember the change of the color codes and check the proper wire!

 

[Oxford2]

Yes, I understand the color coding. This trailer has built in wire trough and conduit, so I’m looking for conductor recommendations. I’m not buying fifty feet of seven conductor just to strip it- I’d like to buy something on spools to use for future projects in addition to this one.

 

[CumminsFan]

Delcity.net or wasteland.com are but a few of the many online suppliers of auto/transportation grade wiring supplies

 

[CumminsFan]

Damn autocorrect. Waytek.com

 

[theoldwizard1]

Yes, I understand the color coding. This trailer has built in wire trough and conduit, so I’m looking for conductor recommendations. I’m not buying fifty feet of seven conductor just to strip it- I’d like to buy something on spools to use for future projects in addition to this one.

You can not beat pre-tinned marine grade wire. The wire it self will NOT corrode, ever. The connection point may corrode. Not cheap !

If you are using LED tail/turn/clearance lights you can easily get by with 18 AWG, probably even 20 AWG. Shop eBay.

 

[matt_i]

I'm on my 4th tractor wire harness with THHN wiring. Wait, where's Wylie? I have to also say its THHN/THWN lol.

The conductor's jacket is water, gasoline, oil resistant...in fact can lay in any of the above ad infinitum.

Not sunlight resistant, but I have it all inside of black split conduit. But its very easy to source in many colors and gages "by the foot".

I use the Panduit BSH- series of glue-laden heat-shrink **** splices. The glue is key in my opinion. Not worth using heatshrink without glue, outdoors.

BSH-14Q, BSH-18Q and BSH-10E IIRC, google will find them.

If I put in a relay its a weatherpacked relay.

If I put in an inline fuse its a weatherpacked version.

If I put in a connector for something moveable, I use a Delphi weatherpack connector.

When I get around to redoing my OEM scotchlocked trailer wiring harness it will be ala above.

 

[Mr.N]

Extension cords work real well.

Between the cold winters, snow and salt trailer wire doesn't last long for me in MN. Also I use a trailer as a tool and might not be as kind to it as some people.

x2 on Extension cords. I have replaced many trailer wiring kits.
Went to extension cord for my car trailer and it's held up the best of any kit.


Also, lots of people hate extension cord as it is not the correct product.

 

[foghorn1966]

Measure what you need, Buy a bit more of each of the 7 &4 commercial truck & trailer wire, Use the glue filled heat shrink connectors. Add in a couple of sealed junction boxes with spayed on fluid film on the internal connections. You'll be good for years. Or until you lend out the trailer.

 

[yatg]

Rewired my utility/car trailer with 14 gauge stranded THWN in 1/2" EMT.

 

[Lwel9226]

The color codes for the 4-pin and 7-pin connectors are (almost) completely different.
The only wire that retains the same color and function is WHITE for GROUND.

4-pin:
Brown - tail/marker
Yellow - left turn/brake
Green - right turn/brake
White - ground

RV 7-pin: (trucks are different)
Black - battery +
Green - tail/marker
Red - left turn/brake
Brown - right turn/brake
Blue - electric brakes
White - ground
Yellow - backup lights or accessory

.

RV 7 pin plugs use the color code you list....
Every other plug I have worked with, regardless of the number of pins, uses the code I listed earlier.... that includes big trucks....

White - Ground
Yellow - Left turn/Brake
Green - Right turn/Brake
Brown - Tail/Marker
Blue --- Trailer Brakes
Black -- Battery
Red ---- Backup

An easy way for me to remember when working with RV plugs is that Brown and Green switch, and Red and Yellow switch... Everything thing else is good to go....

LynnW

 

[MarineScott]

People have the colour code right and I also like to solder the connections at the pigtails and then cover with heat shrink

H

I too solder mine and heat shrink, but I also cover the joint with liquid electrical tape, then heat shrink, unless the shrink tube has sealer in it.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Here is another supplier for marine grade cable and connectors.

https://www.genuinedealz.com/pages/marine-electrical-supply

 

[NUTTSGT]

I went to NAPA and bought mine. They're local and had it in stock.

 

[bushmechanic]

I really like to use ancor marine wire, it is tinned copper and comes in single conductor and sleeved multi conductors.

Sean

Bam.

 

[theoldwizard1]

II use the Panduit BSH- series of glue-laden heat-shrink **** splices. The glue is key in my opinion. Not worth using heatshrink without glue, outdoors.

That type of heat shrink is also called "dual wall" or "marine". It is the only way to fly it the joint is going to be exposed to moisture !

 

[theoldwizard1]

Between the cold winters, snow and salt trailer wire doesn't last long for me in MN. Also I use a trailer as a tool and might not be as kind to it as some people.

Use "pre-tinned" "marine" wire ! for connectors, they post have dual wall heat shrink.

"Pay me now, or pay me later !"

 

[MadMechMaster]

If you get the choice from any of the above vendors, SAE J1128 GPT rated would be the basic automotive grade wire. It's tested for abrasion, temp, flex, etc. that you would find in a vehicle.

A jacketed cable would not likely carry this rating, but is worth looking for.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I really like to use ancor marine wire, it is tinned copper and comes in single conductor and sleeved multi conductors.

Ancor is "good stuff" ! They do sell 4 conductor tinned "trailer cable". It is 16 AWG which is overkill for LED lights.

 

[cobia23]

Pacer Group is where I get all my wiring, "I re-wire boats on the side." Definately go with tinned wire where ever you get it from.

https://www.pacergroup.net/?gclid=CjwKCAjw19z6BRAYEiwAmo64LZpbQ2fdIOqyz-m6b5W33Dj4DttR0kAl4gbnpMb7aMhkt0PHrpRGxhoCfiAQAvD_BwE

 

[Mr.N]

Use "pre-tinned" "marine" wire ! for connectors, they post have dual wall heat shrink.

"Pay me now, or pay me later !"

Great point...

I usually just did a double wall heat shrink... but I don't dunk it in water.

 

[Lwel9226]

I normally buy the three wire rolls (GRN-YEL-BRN) in #16.... then run all the other colors in single strand with #12 or #14 ....

I have not tried the marine grade cable you mention.... Sounds like it should be a good idea....

LynnW

 

[gte718p]

I use individual marine grade wire, good quality crmip,s and marine heat shrink. I pretty much exclusively use this company for my wire. I've been a happy customer for almost 10 years.

https://www.genuinedealz.com/collections/trailer?page=2

It is one of those jobs you can do right once and not touch again for 20 years or you can be cheap and mess with it constantly for 20 years.

 

[csp]

Yellow - Right turn/Brake
Green - Left turn/Brake

Those two are backwards, and I know it was just a typo as you mentioned the plug wire colors to trailer wire colors correctly.

Yellow = left
Green = right

 

[JPinSTL]

I just went through this on my 24ft goose. I bought prepackaged 7 conductor 14ga at about a $1/ft. The 7 conductor with all the same size was SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than buying wire that was upsized for the 12V and Brake conductors. I also bought 2 of the trailer weatherproof junction boxes. I put 1 junction up front on the neck and the other box in the back by the axles. Both boxes are also grounded to the frame. I welded a stainless hex bolt to the frame for the grounds to connect.

The front junction box allows me to replace the trailer pigtail if it gets snagged, mice chewed, etc. I also came out of here with 12V+ and mounted a mini fuse/switch box to feed the LED loading lights, battery charge for the winch, etc.

For the front to back 14/7 wire run I used the un-needed 12V+ Red along with the standard Blue Wire to beef up the brakes since a tandem axle should be running 12ga wire for brakes. 2-14ga would be "roughly" 10ga. I plan to add backup lights, but you could also use the purple wire too for extra brake capacity.

I used marine heat shrink and ring or **** terminals, no Scotch-Loks!

Trailer Brakes have never been better and it was definitely worth laying under the trailer all day in the rain (pro tip is to lay a tarp on the bed) finally getting this sorted out.

 

[Lwel9226]

Those two are backwards, and I know it was just a typo as you mentioned the plug wire colors to trailer wire colors correctly.

Yellow = left
Green = right

You are right.... fixed it...
ThanX You

LynnW

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

I didn't read everything in this thread, but, get one of these from amazon or wherever, then run SOOW 3 conductor (good extension cord wire) from the j-box. They're available in different lengths and believe me, the 12 foot one is about the shortest I would buy. 4,6 or 8 foot will barely get you under the trailer deck.

I like how the wires are terminated into the connectors, then the whole 7 pin plug is poured rubber molded around the wires/connectors.

Should pay about $40 and it'll save you buying 5, 6, or 7 conductor cable.