Preferred power cord length for welder

[Brandon_oma#692]

I have a L-tec 225 migmaster. It works well and is my first Mig welder. The power cord is only 6 foot long and the molded on plug is separating from the cord. Currently I am using it on a 40' 10/4 cord if I need to move it more than a couple feet. This is 75% of the time I use it.

I was thinking of making a new cord around 20 feet long with 8/3 soow as my dad has a spool otherwise I can order 6/3 if needed. This would allow me to reach almost anywhere in my garage and the majority of my driveway.

Otherwise I can just put a new end on the power cord and make up or buy an extension around 20 feet long.

How long is the power cord on your 200-250 mig welder? If you were to replace it how long would you make it?

 

[Kaizen]

If I were you I would be looking at adding a wall outlet.


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[sberry]

I don't like to modify the welder. The 8 is ideal for a cord or an extension. As was said, rig up a nice holder, tie the recept to it, tie it all up and use the long cord. If you think 20 ft is plenty make it 30, wont hurt a thing.

 

[Brandon_oma#692]

If I took the time to replace it, I'd take the attached cord off entirely and put a female plug built right into it. No attached cord at all.

Just like jaw inserts on a vise, the cord pigtailed onto a welder is simply so it'll be usable right out of the box.

I am nut understanding this. can you show an example?

If I were you I would be looking at adding a wall outlet.


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I would need an outlet in the middle on my floor and a few in my driveway to do this.


Ill try to add some pictures I already have that may explain better.



I made up a sub panel to mount next to the garage door by the welders. Not looking to use everything at once but it was getting old swapping between the plasma cutter and a welder with only 1 receptacle in the area. I am also putting a 6-50 receptacle on the opposite side of the 18 foot wide garage door.

View media item 104148
It is mounted where I drew the red box. This picture is from before I made a cart for the synchrowave and moved a few things around but you can get the general idea. Both welders can be plugged in and used where they sit.

View media item 104149
With my tig torch being 25' I have not run into problems doing anything inside the garage. For stick welding I have enough leads I could weld in my neighbors garage across the street lol. I prefer to stick and mig weld outside as I do not have my welding curtains made up yet. usually roll my welding table a few feet outside the door.

 

[nadogail]

I don't like to modify the welder. The 8 is ideal for a cord or an extension. As was said, rig up a nice holder, tie the recept to it, tie it all up and use the long cord. If you think 20 ft is plenty make it 30, wont hurt a thing.

What he said, an unmodified welder can command a higher used price than one that has been cobbled.

Just like it came out of the box is worth more.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

If I took the time to replace it, I'd take the attached cord off entirely and put a female plug built right into it. No attached cord at all.

Just like jaw inserts on a vise, the cord pigtailed onto a welder is simply so it'll be usable right out of the box.

The 120v plug on the back of your computer is an example.
Just a female connector and no integral power line.

Why not?

Nothing, ever ever is done for ten years down the road resale over convenience of use in any shop worth being in.

If I saw a female plug nicely integrated, I'd think far more of the seller.
Same with a cjrc saw with a Teflon foot, a mill with nice way covers, a rotating vise with index holes drilled in it, an rv with a radiator screen added.

Why think less of a thoughtful and usable mod?
A mod shows initiative, ability, sense(if the mod is sensical) and pride of ownership.

(my last two welders had no pigtail included. What should I have done? had I bought a dryer pigtail because I had a dryer receptacle, did I diminish the value. Did I cobble it? )

So where would he put the inlet? Would have to cut out a place on the chassis cover for it.

Not good to modify equipment to that extreme.

 

[Brandon_oma#692]

I don't like to modify the welder. The 8 is ideal for a cord or an extension. As was said, rig up a nice holder, tie the recept to it, tie it all up and use the long cord. If you think 20 ft is plenty make it 30, wont hurt a thing.

What he said, an unmodified welder can command a higher used price than one that has been cobbled.

Just like it came out of the box is worth more.

Cord is damaged. The outer jacket is no longer attached to the plug. You can see the 3 individual insulated wires. I am assuming this needs to be replaced one way or another. I guess I could try to glue the cord back together or just wrap it with electrical tape.

Here is a picture of the welder in question. Sorry can't see the separation in the pictures I have.

View media item 104150

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Looks like youre missing a cord grip on the welder chassis as well

 

[Norcal]

When I converted my MillerMatic 251 to a pin & sleeve plug put a 20’ cord on it and added a cord grip with a Kellums grip on it, if I decide to sell the machine it’s no problem to restore the OEM cord to it. If I kick the bucket first still not a problem.

 

[Brandon_oma#692]

Looks like youre missing a cord grip on the welder chassis as well

On the front where the ground clamp cable is? I think I put a chunk of hose around it. I need to measure the hole and cable OD and see what menards has.

 

[sberry]

Ok,,, its already broke. Old machine, really different. Yes, the 8 cord you have would be on it.
There are lots of places a longer cord really is the easier way. A lot of times the cord could be hung on the wall too,, or at least some of it. In my old shop I had limited wiring and had 70 ft of 10 on one.

 

[Kaizen]

Why the expense and trouble to negate an extension cord seldom used?
I'm not sure what's the difference is in wire length of a wire ran in the wall and a wire ran in an extension cord. The in wall wire requires the same screw attachment in the junction box as the male/female head uses so it can't be a connector issue.

He is using a 40 foot cord presently 70 percent of the time. Depends on the size of his garage but that takes home pretty far. Probably same cost either way. Personally I’d rather not need to uncoil an extension cord if I don’t have to. Especially two. I’d rather do it once and save the time every week coiling and uncoiling


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[Kaizen]

I am nut understanding this. can you show an example?



I would need an outlet in the middle on my floor and a few in my driveway to do this.


Ill try to add some pictures I already have that may explain better.



I made up a sub panel to mount next to the garage door by the welders. Not looking to use everything at once but it was getting old swapping between the plasma cutter and a welder with only 1 receptacle in the area. I am also putting a 6-50 receptacle on the opposite side of the 18 foot wide garage door.

View media item 104148
It is mounted where I drew the red box. This picture is from before I made a cart for the synchrowave and moved a few things around but you can get the general idea. Both welders can be plugged in and used where they sit.

View media item 104149
With my tig torch being 25' I have not run into problems doing anything inside the garage. For stick welding I have enough leads I could weld in my neighbors garage across the street lol. I prefer to stick and mig weld outside as I do not have my welding curtains made up yet. usually roll my welding table a few feet outside the door.

How big is your garage? I would think with the current 40 foot you can go two car lengths down the driveway from that sub panel or to the other side of the 18 foot garage door. Hey if you like extension cords go for it. Just thinking price will probably be close using surface conduit.


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[Brandon_oma#692]

How big is your garage? I would think with the current 40 foot you can go two car lengths down the driveway from that sub panel or to the other side of the 18 foot garage door. Hey if you like extension cords go for it. Just thinking price will probably be close using surface conduit.


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I am looking to not use the 40 footer unless I need that much length. It is a pain for the 10 feet of cord I typically need.

Back to the beginning. I picked up a replacement 6-50 plug to put on the existing damaged cord. I thought hey wouldn't it it be cool if this cord was a little bit longer and more flexible than this 35 year old one...... Then I wondered if 8/3 would be ok or do I need 6/3 and how long should I make it? Then I had the brilliant idea to come on here and ask other people that I assumed had been down this road a time or two for advice since it's always nice to learn from somebody else's mistake and save my own time and money.

 

[Brandon_oma#692]

I guess the two options I see are.

#1 put a new plug on the existing welder cord and buy or make a 20-ft extension cord. Very rarely would I use the 40-ft cord and the 20-foot cord together.

#2 put a new cord on the welder around 25-ft long and very rarely use the 40 ft extension cord.

 

[TractorJeff]

Item 2 is what I would do!

 

[Kaizen]

I am looking to not use the 40 footer unless I need that much length. It is a pain for the 10 feet of cord I typically need.

Back to the beginning. I picked up a replacement 6-50 plug to put on the existing damaged cord. I thought hey wouldn't it it be cool if this cord was a little bit longer and more flexible than this 35 year old one...... Then I wondered if 8/3 would be ok or do I need 6/3 and how long should I make it? Then I had the brilliant idea to come on here and ask other people that I assumed had been down this road a time or two for advice since it's always nice to learn from somebody else's mistake and save my own time and money.

Got it. The way you wrote it was you needed both. I’d cut down what you have and add plug and socket ends.
Not much money invested and you can always reuse the ends.


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[sberry]

If I had free 8 would be using it.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Make the cords and be done with it. O one will complain if the cord is longer as long as it is quality. I use 50amp twist locks on my Miller mig and tig machines. I also have one extension cord with a 50amp 3 prong at one end and twist lock at the other, one with twist locks at both ends and one with twist lock and female 50amp receptical at the other. They vary in length from 25' to 35' using 6/3. I've never had an issue.

 

[Bert_]

Keep a standard cord on the welder, 6-10'.

Don't make the extension cord larger guage than it needs. It just makes it heavy and bulky for no gain.

Most welder cords I make are #10. #8 will run any machine.

 

[sberry]

I make 10 also. Most bought jobs are 8.

 

[Mikes82GT]

I'd install a long enough cable to eliminate the extension.
Make it long enough to reach the plug receptacle with a few feet left over. The furthest away you said you go is what, 25 feet?
I'd make it 30 feet and call it good.
Keep the extension for those rare jobs where the 30 footer won't reach.
Hell, do the same to all of your welders.

 

[cadunkle]

Depends on the size of your space. Mine has a 6' cord that works 99% of the time. My garage is small, 24'x30'. I installed two outlets on the welder circuit, at front just inside the roll up door and the other toward the back along the opposite side wall. This allows me to reach just about anywhere in my garage or just out front. I also have a 25' extension cord I've used once when I was just out of reach. I don't weld often, and when I do it's usually smaller parts I can easily move to where I prefer to work.

If it were me I'd keep the cord on the welder as short as practical, under 10' maybe, and add receptacles in your high use areas since you mention you usually need the longer cord. Since you already have wire just make an extension for the (hopefully) rare occasion you need to weld farther away.

 

[coljar]

For your situation, you said putting a 25' cord on it would suit your needs, so that's what you should do. I like a short cord like you already have, because I'm close to a receptacle mostly and I use an extension when I'm not.

Those Linde's are great machines. I have a Linde 160 in my old shop next door, but I've been using my Miller 211 in the new shop most of the time lately.