Prep for a new floor

[J-R0d]

So, I have read a lot of the threads on here where folks are prepping older spaces with stained concrete, etc...

So, here is my question. On my current garage build, the floors are pristine. I've kept them covered during construction and they only have a few spots (a spot of joint compound as an example) to clean before coating. The floors were finished with a power trowel, so they have a very smooth finish currently.

Unlike many folks I am not going with Epoxy, but rather the water based AcryliSeal from Wolverine.

I've already washed the slab down once with water to wash off any dust, etc... as part of the inital clean up.

Next I plan to pressure wash to ensure anything on the slab is washed off.

I was then going to wash it down after that with Super Clean to ensure there is no other non-visible contaminants. I do not believe there are any as during the intial wash down I saw no evidence of any water beading. Its more just as a precaution.

Lastly would be an etch. I was planing to use Muratic Acid. Just wondering if anyone has an idea of how much acid is reuqired for 2500 sq ft, and what the dilution rate should be. I have 5 gallons of Muratic Acid brick wash, but I am unsure if I want to use it, as I believe it has a few other types of acid mixed in rather than just being straight Muratic Acid.

I know you need to wash and neutralize afterwards. So, how much baking soda does it usually take (again for 2500 sq ft).

I do not plan to sand the slab with a grinder at this point. If I grind the slab it would be later in case the sealer doesn't work out at which point I would probably densify it and just polish it.

 

[DonIvey]

Why are you using the Acryliseal instead of Epoxy? I'm in your situation with a new garage floor, and trying to figure out what to do. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the Acryliseal? Also, how do they compare in terms of cost? Thanks,

Don Ivey
Raleigh, NC

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The "sealer" gives it away.

Typically "sealer" means a single component water or solvent based product, probably thin 1 or 2 mils thick (thinner than paper).
If it resists gas and oil it is probably solvent based, we have both types.

Epoxy can be up to and exceed 15 mils in a single coat, is more impact resistant, chemical resistant and is a (2) component product.

Sealers are so thin that you can usually get away with less prep than an epoxy, if you use an acid stain, you prepped for the sealer and colored your concrete in (1) step!!

Good luck.

 

[GarageEnvy]

I can only say what my experience was from a single floor. I used the epoxy-coat prep solution which contained muriatic acid and the dilution rate was 1 part prep to 4 parts water. I'm not sure if it was straight muriatic acid or not. I don't remember how many gallons (it was 4 of their kits) but it was supposed to adequately etch 2000 sf. I had 1800 and barely made it after I had already ground the floor. With as much acid as you have on hand you should be plenty fine. The instructions for Epoxy-Coat said to triple rinse and neutralize with baking soda. I wasn't clear if that meant baking soda the first time or every time so I did it every time and then pressure washed afterward. Using baking soda each time I used 52 pounds of baking soda. Thirteen pound bags at Costco were $4 so better safe than sorry.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Really. If you are going to etch for a sealer, you should really consider using a polyaspartic or a clear epoxy with a urethane top-coat.

The prep is the same and the products will far outlast the sealer.

 

[AlphaGarage]

It's tough to say with any certainty how much acid will be required. First off the muriatic acid available retail comes in a range of dilution from about 28% to 38%, and then different concrete will react differently. Muriatic acid acts on the calcium in the concrete, so more calcium, more action.

I usually start with a 2:1 solution, that is 2 parts water mixed with 1 part acid. If that doesn't result in a slight visible fizzing reaction, increase the acid; if it smokes and bubbles violently, then dilute with some more water.

Be careful to not allow the acid solution to dry on the floor, the released calcium dust will settle and stick to the concrete and will need to be removed before you apply any subsequent coatings.

AcryliSeal is a high performance sealer, we even have a few warehouses that use it instead of an epoxy system. It's about 25 cents per ft2, where our 3 coat epoxy system is about $1.50 per ft2 (both DIY). AcryliSeal handles most common liquids, but not as many as the epoxy, and a sealer, being very thin, just doesn't have near the impact resistance a 22+ mil resin system has. And, of course, AcryliSeal is an eaier install. Even with etching you can do a typical floor in just 1 day.