Prep is done but has dry marks??

[SNOW JW]

Ok 3 car garage 32x20 I got some 1000HS Armor Seal in a semi gloss white.

Here is what we did for prep

1. Washed floor down with degreaseer rinsed and brushed.

2. Acid washed 10min wait brushed as well.

3. Water then a bleach?? The SW guy said this would help taking the acid out.

4. Set up the psi washer and spent a good 2hrs going over and over it.

Set to dry at 5pm Sat have two large fans and also heater in garage windows open and have very dry air temp with heater is 80deg.



Now my question after it started to dry there is psi washer marks?? I can rub my finger real hard on the garage floor and it shows a light film is this OK??

How much longer should I wait to dry or do I need to re-do my rinse because of the above statement?? We have a very dry climate out here so keep that in mind

Pics below I don't want to screw this up so any help is great.

 

[SNOW JW]

Keep in mind I have to rub my finger pretty hard to get that dust on my finger.

Also the psi washer marks look like they are going away the dryer it gets. But it still looks like the concrete is a tad rougher were the psi washer has hit it a tad harder.

Sorry for all the stupid questions but thanks for all your help.

 

[AlphaGarage]

Not familiar with that product, but since it's semi-white it should be opaque enough to cover any visual marks. The pressure washed areas probably aren't different enough in texture to transmit through the coating (assuming that coating is 5+ mil thick).

I would be most concerned with the dust, The potential problem is pretty straight forward - the possibility that the coating adheres to the dust instead of the substrate. We had someone who acid stained a floor, didn't think the color was dark enough and applied a 3rd party acrylic product that deepened the color. It also left a very slight layer of fine dust material, the results were less than satisfactory with some adhesion failure.

It difficult to judge just from a picture, but if the dust is consistent, thick, and large enough it could pose a problem. I'd consider trying to wash down a small test patch using a steady stream of rinse water and a stiff bristle broom. If that is enough to eliminate the dust it might be a few minutes well spent to go over the whole floor.

You might also want to contact the supplier to get their advice.

BTW Using bleach used after acid is not a common combo.

 

[jmh21586]

Baking soad and I've heard vineagar work to neutralize. But then again, so does water.

I used baking soda just because it is so cheap. Why not?? Couldn't hurt.
But a lot of rinsing should work just as well. Which I'll also do.

 

[SNOW JW]

Thanks guys I kinda wished I would have gone with the wolverine brand but anways very-very few floors are coated in our area so I hope it turns out good.


Last question on the dry time at this point the whole floor looks very white and feels good like 80grit sandpaper do you think I should let it dry more??? I have two huge fans in there infact it feels like a wind tunnel in there with the blast furnace on with our heater.

 

[AlphaGarage]

The product's specific formulation will determine how dry the concrete needs to be. For example, our BondTite 1101 when used as a primer works fine with damp floors, on the other hand some of our other coatings require a bone dry substrate. Some where in your product instructions it should state what the threshold is, if not give 'em a call or ere on the side of caution and let the floor really dry out well, which could take a few days.

But again, you need to make certain that the white dust isn't going to be a problem.

 

[SNOW JW]

Turned out great!!! Time will tell it did not cover as much as I wanted put it 6mills thick and very even.

Pics to come soon.

Have a 4x4 area that is unseen for the most part to do that did not get done so that is now my next question.

On recoat I seen some small roller marks and a little orange peel effect so on the 2nd coat what is the best way to get rid of this when I go over the whole area again??

 

[SNOW JW]

Here is a quick pic this is only with one of the lights on!! Sorry pic is a little blurry

 

[SNOW JW]

Ok quick update.

2nd coat is a must everything looks like glass now!!! Almost rock hard now even with the colder temps in the garage now 60deg or so.

Thanks again for all of those who helped and posted.

For anyone who is woried about doing this my advise 1. reasearch as much as you can on prep and the do's and dont's. I winged it and although my last second research saved my bacon I wished I would have found this great forum before I started. But it turned out great and the almost gloss white is perfect for the detail work I do on Snowmobiles and such with only one light on now it's super bright and will be so nice.

Again thanks to all who helped and have posted on other threads if you have wanted to epoxy your floor and have waited don't wait once you are done you will be asking yourself why did I wait so long to do this.

 

[varunner]

Nice job on your floor. I'm just about ready to put down Armorseal 1000 as well. How much of the Armorseal did you use on the first coat and the second coat ?

thanks

 

[SNOW JW]

4 gal on the first coat we should have had just enough going by there specs but ran a tad short about 10sq ft short or abouts.

2nd coat we made 4 gal cover everything again with a good coat and had about 1/2 Gal left over.

 

[tcianci]

As previously stated beach won't do a thing to neutralize the acid, nor will vinegar as it is also an acid. Baking soda which is a base will counteract the action of the acid but so does time... the acid only reacts with the concrete for a limited amount of time before the action slows. Thorough rinsing with plain water should be more than adequate.

It is AMAZING how much mis-information is passed around and reinforced by forums like this. I'm making an assumption here that if you're old enough to own a garage, you have already made it through high school science, physics and chemistry classes. The same information you were taught then applies today. When someone suggests that you neutralize an acid with an acid or neutralize an acid with an oxidizer, a flag should go up and you need to ask yourself what else that guy doesn't know and where he was selling burgers or pumping gas last week.

 

[varunner]

tcianci,

I agree with you 100%. It's amazing what "info" is passed around here when they have no clue if it's correct or not.

snowjw,

Sounds like you got about 150sq.ft/ gal. in your application. Sherman-Williams spec sheet lists 206-350sq.ft/gal. I'm getting ready to order mine and at $82/gal, I want to order the right amount. I was planning on estimating 250sqft/gal. If anyone else has experience with Armorseal1000, what's your spreading rate?

thanks

 

[jmh21586]

As previously stated beach won't do a thing to neutralize the acid, nor will vinegar as it is also an acid. Baking soda which is a base will counteract the action of the acid but so does time... the acid only reacts with the concrete for a limited amount of time before the action slows. Thorough rinsing with plain water should be more than adequate.

It is AMAZING how much mis-information is passed around and reinforced by forums like this. I'm making an assumption here that if you're old enough to own a garage, you have already made it through high school science, physics and chemistry classes. The same information you were taught then applies today. When someone suggests that you neutralize an acid with an acid or neutralize an acid with an oxidizer, a flag should go up and you need to ask yourself what else that guy doesn't know and where he was selling burgers or pumping gas last week.

If you'r refering to my post I never said use vineagar. I said I've heard people use vineager. Although vinegar is an acid it is a weaker acid. Technically a weaker acid will raise the PH of a stronger acid. Won't neutralize it but it will bring it in that direction. But if you're going to use vinegar which has a PH of 4, you might as well use water. Water has a PH of 7. I guess it just depends on what PH is exceptable in the end.
Some say to use bleach. Bleach has a PH of around 12, BUT, mixing some kinds of bleach with acids can create chlorine gas. May nuetralize the acid, but may create chlorine gas.
At my work we use muratic and other types of acids to wash buildings. We also use these same acids, heavily diluted, to make the best window cleaner you've ever seen. We'd do it in shorts and short sleeved shirts too. Better to get it directly on your skin and be able to quickly spray it off than have it soaked into clothes and burning you or making you itch all day.

 

[tcianci]

You're right. I never meant to suggest that you used vinegar. Your second post contains the type of information that is truly reliable, scientifically correct and helpful. Weak acids do make great window cleaners, that's why some folks use vinegar and water. I also agree on your "protective gear"! What would seem like less is actually more. Leaving your skin in contact all day with acid dampened clothes is not the way to go, being able to just rinse at will is a good idea. I should have mentioned what you did about bleach combining with the acids.