Preparation

[nm2]

I prepared partially my floor for Epoxy paint !
I did a test and I tried to remove a paint with Carbure scraper and knife after 24 hours curing !
- In your opinion, do you think my floor is prepared according to this video?
- Does adherence is correct?

 

[James-W]

If I understand you correctly, the video on YouTube is of your floor with you scraping it. Is that correct?

I am not a painter so I don’t know exactly what you need to do to prepare a concrete floor for paint, but I would assume it needs to be clean and free of any oil/grease spots and have a finish that will allow the paint to stick to it. You may need to put down some sort of sealer or primer to allow the paint to stick to it better, but I am not sure about that.

As a side note, I don’t know what you plan to do in the garage but if you have any intentions of dragging large objects across the floor, or anything even remotely similar to that, then I have my doubts that paint would be a suitable floor finish. If all you want the garage for is to store stuff, then it may be OK to paint the floor. But even so, if it were me I would seriously consider a different floor covering.

 

[nm2]

If all you want the garage for is to store stuff, then it may be OK to paint the floor. But even so, if it were me I would seriously consider a different floor covering.

James, I'm planning to install Epoxy 100% solid with flakes! My garage is for my personal use .... sometime I work to my car, my blower or my lawn tractor... but nothing of heavy !

 

[NitroShark]

read your data sheet. Most 100% epoxies may take up to 7 days to fully cure. Be sure to grind and prime the floor.

 

[nm2]

Be sure to grind and prime the floor.

Yes i grinded with diamond disc, washed with high pressure machine at 2500PSI !
Are you saying that I have to apply a primer before to apply epoxy ?

 

[NitroShark]

Do this:

Use 100% epoxy
1 Grind floor
2 Use Primer (prevent crater holes during later applications)
3 Color coat
4 Clear Coat (adds nice gloss)
5 Polyurethane (Chemical resistance + )

24 hr Max -between coats... Read your data sheet if different.

Max chemical and strength received after 7 days drying time.

Good Luck.

shawn

 

[nm2]

Do this:
2 Use Primer (prevent crater holes during later applications)

Nitro, What primer would you suggest me ?

 

[NitroShark]

NM2.....


Pick one manufacture and go with their complete system.

In my case I choose Tnemec. The section of my floor shown here is 865 sq ft. I used their products back in the 80's with great success is why I went that route. On the system I used it has "traction" with chips but the clear coat shines. 40mils total. Be sure to grind to floor. Take your time, do it right.


100% solids system.

The coating I used as follows:
1) Concrete Floors (Shop and Machine Area) (Decorative Flake Floor)

Surface Preparation: ICRI-CSP3. This is the scarification of the concrete to remove all poorly adhered laitance on the surface of the concrete and to provide a surface profile (I used a 7inch hand diamond grinder).

The floor was clean and dry prior to coating. I Filled all control joints with Series 215 Surfacing Epoxy.

1st Coat: Series 201 Epoxoprime applied at – 12.0 dry mils
2nd Coat: Series 237 Power-Tread in 33GR Gray applied at 12.0 dry mils. While the coating is wet, broadcast random decorative flakes into the wet coating. (20 lbs)
3rd Coat: Series 284 Deco-Clear applied at 12.0 dry mils
4th Coat: Series 248 Everthane clear applied at 2.0 – 3. Dry mils

The application guide can be found here > http://www.tnemec.com/product/stratashield/ You can get data sheets for coverage also.


Shawn

 

[nm2]

Thanks Nitro,
I will ask to my local representant to know if exist a primer for their products !

PS: Nitro, photos on your last message is not visible !

 

[chiplee]

Do this:

Use 100% epoxy
1 Grind floor
2 Use Primer (prevent crater holes during later applications)
3 Color coat
4 Clear Coat (adds nice gloss)
5 Polyurethane (Chemical resistance + )

24 hr Max -between coats... Read your data sheet if different.

Max chemical and strength received after 7 days drying time.

Good Luck.

shawn

Good checklist, but I'd say folks really need to be getting their recoat times from their individual product data sheets. Most of the Polyurethanes I've looked at, for example, require the epoxy clear to be fully cured and then abraded before the polyurethane can be applied. You're telling the guy to read his data sheet, so I suppose that covers it, but still. Some folks will skip all that reading for a checklist like yours. My $.02.

 

[NitroShark]

Thanks Nitro,
I will ask to my local representant to know if exist a primer for their products !

PS: Nitro, photos on your last message is not visible !

You need to be logged into GJ to view photos posted here,

Shawn

 

[d3ad1ysp0rk]

You need to be logged into GJ to view photos posted here,

Shawn

He may have the same issue I just had.

I was logged into WWW.garagejournal.com but not "garagejournal.com". The way the site tracks your login, there is a difference. The images are from "garagejournal.com", and when I copied the link into my browser, it prompted me to login. When I refreshed this topic, the images then showed up.

For example, go here: http://garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=337908&stc=1&d=1399079200 and it will likely prompt you to login, even though you already are.