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Preparing to epoxy... trying to create a plan

smohr33

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Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
6
I'm planning to epoxy my 2 car (400sq ft) garage in the next few weeks. This will be my first time. The house is almost 60 years old, and the original slab is actually in pretty good condition for its age. I have some minor pits and cracks that I will have to fill, but overall I think it will cover nicely. I don't see any signs of moisture problems or soft concrete. There are plenty of oil stains, but hopefully a good acid clean will take them up. I plan on using Rustoleum Pro (solvent based), 2 coats plus clear.

I'm trying to plan this out timewise. The plan would be to start cleaning, etching, and filling cracks this weekend, and put down the epoxy next weekend. This should leave enough time for everything to dry. If I clean this weekend, is anything else needed before laying the epoxy down, maybe just a final vacuum on Friday? I assume cars shouldn't be parked on the surface in the meantime to keep it clean...

As far as laying down the epoxy, I think rustoleum reccomends anywhere from 12 to 24 hrs between coats and possibly a little longer between the second coat and clear. Am I right with this? If that's the case I would lay down coat 1 Sat morning, coat 2 Sun morning, and the clear Monday night.

Another somewhat unrelated question is the muriatic acid. Does this stuff have any effect on driveways? My driveway is less than a year old and hasn't been sealcoated yet. I just want to make sure washing this stuff down the driveway isn't going to do any damage...

Anyone with any experience, your advice is welcome. I just want to make sure I'm not going to run short or long on time, and that everything goes smoothly. Thanks in advance.
 
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Edger

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May 18, 2011
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623
Location
Melbourne Australia
The acid etching will definitely stain your driveway. You would have to acid etch without any flowing down the drive and neutralize with baking soda before you wash it off. Even then it can stain your drive.
 

A_Pmech

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May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
If you use muriatic acid, be sure to have PLENTY of ventilation in the garage when you do the etching. The stuff is N-A-S-T-Y. Wear good fitting chemical goggles when you handle it.

I think you'll be fine etching a week before. The floor needs several days to dry before rolling on the epoxy IIRC. Thoroughly vacuuming just before rolling the first coat is a good idea, as dirt and **** has a habit of falling from the ceiling or getting blown in.

I wouldn't let the acid contact your driveway unless it is very substantially diluted with water. It very well may stain it.
 

usafstud

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
17
Than, how do you get rid of the acid after u itch the garage? Do you **** it up with a shop vac? I dont want to stain my driveway and kill my feont yard.

I'm a newb at this
 
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cnk

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Mar 13, 2012
Messages
124
Location
NJ
Neutralize it with baking soda and then rinse it away with a lot of water.
 

usafstud

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
17
How about sanding? Before or after itching? Brush or power tool for sanding?

Sorry, i haven't found a detailed diy
 

miketyler

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Sep 10, 2009
Messages
635
Location
Cedar Hill, TX
Agreed on all mentioned thus far but have this to add:

Dont use straight muriatic acid. Be sure to dilute it. You might use a stronger mix for super treating oil stains but do it last and only after you have used degreaser, scrub brush and soap. The muriatic acid will eat the top layer of concrete away and will leave it rough unless you dilute it. Also, it will leave a concrete dust film on the surface after it dries. Rinse it well and possibly consider coming back with wet/dry mop to remove this dust film prior to coating.

I have also heard of pros using a propane torch to remove oils below the surface on oil stains. I have used this method as well but watch the temps on the surface. Concrete will pop and leave divits if you over do it.

I have done several floors and have learned a few things. I also recommend solvent/oil based coatings over the water-based products although I am sure there are some good ones out there. I highly recommend the Sherwin Williams floor coatings.

I would sand before etching for uniformity. If you run across some rough areas, you can rent a diamond grinder from local rental yards. You probably will have to buy the stones for it but you can use this in lieu of chemical etch.
 
Last edited:

22lover

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May 8, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Irving, TX
I am also in the prep stage (see my Aquapon thread). Instead of baking soda, I used household ammonia to neutralize the muriatic acid. It worked great and there's no discoloration of my driveway after rinsing it out. One thing I did to help with application of the diluted acid (and subsequent neutralization with ammonia) is use a cheap pump-up wand sprayer from Wal-Mart. I found I could more evenly distribute the acid this way.
 
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