Prepping for Racedeck

[palsor1]

Hey guys,

I need some advice on getting my garage floor flat (not level).

We moved into our house years ago and I'm just now getting to the garage. I purchased enough Racedeck Tuffshield to cover the floor. After some investigation prior to installation, I discovered the floor of the garage is not terribly flat. It's not horrible, but if I set my long straight edge on the floor in various places, I can see high and low spots where the total delta from high-to-low is somewhere between 1/4" and 3/8" over maybe 5ft. After a quick conversation with Racedeck, it sounds like they recommend trying to get it flatter than that.

I have two concerns. First, there are quite a few oil and tire stains on the floor, some from me, some from the previous owners. They make me worried about getting any sort of concrete filler or compound to stick. Second, the garage floor is sloped. I understand why (building code), but I believe that means that using self-leveling compound is not an option.

So, I think that means I could do one of the following:

• Live with it and hope the Racedeck does ok. I'm not sure I trust this. Any thoughts?
• Try and grind the high spots down. I'd probably try and rent the EDCO 10" grinder that's available at Home Depot. My concern with that is that I will ultimately just make a mess of things. I'm a fairly capable home improvement guy, but that just seems difficult to get just right. Anyone done this?
• Do some concrete prep and try to fill the low spots with something other than self-leveler. This seems the most likely to yield success to me. If go this way, the steps probably look like this:
  1. **** up the worst of the oil stains with something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Goof-Off-32-oz-Concrete-Cleaner-Degreaser-FG820/300723090
  2. Rent a Diamabrush from Home Depot and scrape away the rest of the dirt and oil stains.
  3. Use some kind of filler to fill the low spots. I'll have to do my best to get everything flat by screeding with a very straight board or something.
  Any suggestions on material to use, and any techniques?

Thanks for any advice.

Andy

 

[kbeefy]

3/8 over 5' wouldn't bother me.
Racedeck is removable, why not try it as is then decide if it needs to be better?

 

[James-W]

This may be a dumb idea, but would it be possible to grind down the high areas? I doubt you will ever get it totally flat, but you may be able to make it more flat than it is now.

 

[marsh1]

3/8 over 5' wouldn't bother me.
Racedeck is removable, why not try it as is then decide if it needs to be better?

I agree. I think the 12" tiles would be fine. Would try on one of the worst area to test before grinding.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I put down some landscape fabric and called it a day,

 

[bazzateer]

This may be a dumb idea.

So dumb you couldn't bear to share?!

 

[acer66]

I put down some landscape fabric and called it a day,

You can also use roofing tar paper but I would only do that if it is confirmed that the floor does not have moisture issue.

Is possible moisture the reason for landscape fabric?

I doubt that 3/8” would bother me.

 

[66HertzClone]

I think the reason for the landscape fabric is to deaden any noise that may result from the tiles not laying flat against the floor in all areas. That's why used it when I put my floor down.

 

[DC73]

I can see high and low spots where the total delta from high-to-low is somewhere between 1/4" and 3/8" over maybe 5ft. After a quick conversation with Racedeck, it sounds like they recommend trying to get it flatter than that.

I'd want it flatter as well. If you don't want to use self leveling compound, consider a product called Feather Finish for the low spots. You can get the Henry brand at Home Depot. I used it on my kitchen/dining room floor when I installed some floating vinyl planks. Easy to work with.

DC

 

[Honolulu]

The OP asks for leveling advice, here's mine, having just seen a one-car sized shed at a friend's house leveled in preparation for laying 4" ceramic tile.

Custom Building Products (and others I'm sure) have a cementitious product that you mix in a plastic rubbish can with drill-powered mixing paddle. You mix it up, pour it out, and more or less trowel it "flat". It's supposed to be sufficiently fluid that it will self-level. I think, having seen it after application (didn't see the troweling, wish I had) that it will FOR THE MOST PART result in a pretty flat, but not perfectly flat, who needs that?) floor. There is some viscosity to the mix - it isn't like water, so there could still be some out-of-level, but I'll bet no one will notice it.

This type of floor leveling is best employed when one wants to install a more strictly two-dimensional product such as an engineered wood floor. It'll be more than sufficient for a flexible product.

Beats the H - E - double chopsticks out of any proposal to grind 'er down, faster and cleaner to apply, next to zero cleanup (sweep first) and cures in a day or so.

 

[James-W]

Beats the H - E - double chopsticks out of any proposal to grind 'er down, faster and cleaner to apply, next to zero cleanup (sweep first) and cures in a day or so.

The opening poster says the floor is sloped, I assume toward the overhead door. Any self leveling product will have the tendency to run in the direction of the slope.

 

[drmarkr]

I used laminate floor padding under my 1600 sf, which would help even our your problem. There were many spots in my floor that had 1/4" variation.

The best thing about SOME kind of underlayment is that it keeps it from "clicking" when you walk on it...

I'm curious what you think is not going to "do ok" with the Race Deck with regard to your floor out of level? It isn't going to crack or break?!?

 

[Jinks]

One of my garages, I call it the shop, is an add on to the side of the house. I opened a wall & included an old bedroom as part of the shop area. The contractor didn't match floor levels perfectly. Not bad, but not perfect. The new garage floor was also at "house" level, a few inches higher than the driveway. We had to "dish" the doorway to get to the drive. That resulted in two "shoulders" at the edges of the door. Regular diamond pattern tiles work just fine over the difference between the old floor & the new pour. At the doorway "shoulders" I used a few "flow through" tiles. They bend & conform to the shape of the concrete. No problem, & no one has ever commented or had a problem with any of it.

 

[Todd.Brock]

All I can say is if you use self leveler, get a friend and work quick. I used it for my bathroom floor and started in on area and worked my way out. By the time the last batch. Met the 1st batch - 15-18 minutes later, it set up and served as more of a dam, and held up the last batch from flowing together and level out. I had to grind out with a Vac and diamond grinder


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