OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
It will vary depending on what height the tooling is but it would be approximately between 2.25”-3.”
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Press brake build
- Thread starter f150skidoo
- Start date
It will vary depending on what height the tooling is but it would be approximately between 2.25”-3.”
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OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
Next step was to make the tooling holder for the punch. It consists of 1/2" x 2.5" flat bar that's bolted to the punch frame with 1/2" socket cap bolts. The tooling is held in place with 3/8" set screws. Building the back gauge was next on the list. I couldn't find bearing blocks to fit the lead screw size that I was happy with, So I decided to make my own by plasma cutting a piece of 1/2" plate and counter boring for the bearing to sit in and also the socket cap bolts. The back gauge rides on 15mm linear rails that I had left over from expanding plasma table. The lead screw is 3/8"-8 4 start screw with a Acetal anti backlash nut. I made a riser plate out of 3/16" material that connects linear bearings and lead screw. the riser will hold the gauge finger(s) which I haven't made yet, the riser is slotted vertically to compensate the different height dies.
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slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
May as well add a servo and controller. 
I love your builds. Thanks for sharing it all!
I love your builds. Thanks for sharing it all!
lilscorpion
Well-known member
May as well add a servo and controller.
I love your builds. Thanks for sharing it all!
Exactly what I was thinking in both regards. Nicely done.
racer-john
Well-known member
OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
Fabulous build.
What brand of Mag Drill do you use?
Hougen HMD904, absolutely love the drill. It’s my 2nd most favourite tool after my CNC plasma.
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racer-john
Well-known member
Would you buy the non-swivel 904 again or get the swivel? I have been wavering. And have enjoyed following this build. Thank you for documenting and sharing.
OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
I would by a non swivel again, the swivel adjustment really starts shining if you were doing a lot of field work drilling columns or overhead beams. But I don't find its that necessary in a shop environment.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Chiming in on the mag drill conversation.. I recently went through this and settled on a Fein JMU 137-2QW. It came with a very nice 3/4 Weldon Rohm three jaw chuck. Two speed gear box and electronic variable speed in those two gear ranges. Reverse is a momentary pushbutton.
Edited to add: no matter which mag drill you get, they are a total game changer! Used mine tonight. One of those tools that’s all smiles every time you use it.
Edited to add: no matter which mag drill you get, they are a total game changer! Used mine tonight. One of those tools that’s all smiles every time you use it.
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OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
On the brake I needed to button up all the small odds and ends. First thing was to make the parts for the stroke control. I cut the adjustable mount out of 5/8" plate and tapped a 1/2"-20 hole for the adjustment screw. I also machined the back of the mount flat and drilled and tapped for 1/4"-20 so it can be bolted to the punch. Next was to make the mount for the DRO displays and mount the magnetic scales to the punch and back gauge. I couldn't find a appropriate electrical box for the switch I bought so I decided it be easier to cut and bend my own box. My new to me 4 foot 4way die showed up in the mail today, the die openings are 3/4", 1", 1.5", and 2".
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matt_i
Well-known member
Great stuff, did you get an 85 deg or 90 deg? Also curious where you sourced it from.
Mailperson must have been sweatin'
Mailperson must have been sweatin'
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Coming along nicely. Very well thought out and excellent execution.
OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
Great stuff, did you get an 85 deg or 90 deg? Also curious where you sourced it from.
Mailperson must have been sweatin'
It’s 85 degree die, I bought it off Ebay from a used machinery dealer. It was the only one I could find that wasn’t 8-10ft long, and the mail guy was complaining about it’s weight.
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OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
I once again have been very busy so the brake build got put on the back burner. But I have now have finally finished it. It took awhile to assemble it and wire it but having foot control is really handy and more controllable then I would've thought. My very first test piece was 47" of 16 gauge, I over bent it 3 degrees past 90 but most importantly the part is straight and not canoeing.
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nice! I wish you lived close to me ! LOL
royce
Well-known member
Very nice work sir.
I'd sure be proud in your shoes
Royce
I'd sure be proud in your shoes
Royce
Boosted1
Well-known member
Impressive.
Mario428
Well-known member
Very impressive work. Thanks for sharing
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very Cool!!! I like the Back Gage. Simple and effective.
What Radius did you use on the .060 and what opening and angle (ie 85, 86, 88 or 90°) on the bottom Die?
Did you try coining it to get it to come back to 90°? Or were you looking to over bend it? Just curious. I have a little empty space in my head this morning and I am looking for some data to fill it with.
What Radius did you use on the .060 and what opening and angle (ie 85, 86, 88 or 90°) on the bottom Die?
Did you try coining it to get it to come back to 90°? Or were you looking to over bend it? Just curious. I have a little empty space in my head this morning and I am looking for some data to fill it with.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I would love to see that thing in action !
OP
f150skidoo
Well-known member
I used 3/4" 85 degree die since it's my smallest full width die on my 4way die. My 5/8 and 1/2" dies are all short lengths. My punch has a .125" radius. I wasn't trying to over bend it, but I think that happened since I was using a die 50% to large for the material. I didn't try coining it.
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Gotcha. The 1/8R Punch should work well using a 1/2" Bottom on .060. We typically figure 4-5-6 times material thickness for the opening using a .008, .016 or .031R. Anything bigger we add the additional Punch Radius minus 1/32. That gets us close enough to work out the details if we have to hold +/-.005 which is becoming more and more common in a world where designers and engineers default their Cad Systems to 3 place decimals...and it is an act of Congress to get them to use a tolerance scheme that makes sense.
85° Tooling will require Air Bending. Coin it and you will be over 90° assuming you have matching Punch angles.
Nice job on the Machine!!!
We are experimenting with 86° Tooling for our ATC (Automatic Tool Change) Brakes. Using this tooling allows for the machine to get feedback and adjust the depth of stroke to hold angles on varying material thickness.
The drawback to Air Bending is the Form bulges at each end of the bend. Causes issues at weld assembly and inspection has issues with a part where the flange will check in print except where there is a bulge, they check big or out of print in some cases. Need to do some serious soul searching on this change if we decide to move forward. It is +/-$100K per machine to change out the tooling. But set-up time is reduced. Not sure if it is enough for an ROI.
I am really interested in seeing the data you collect.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beautiful job on the press brake.
I could have used it last night. I had to bend two pieces of 1/2" plate and ended up having to heat them slightly to bend as my setup couldn't quite do it without the steel a bit "plastic-y".
I could have used it last night. I had to bend two pieces of 1/2" plate and ended up having to heat them slightly to bend as my setup couldn't quite do it without the steel a bit "plastic-y".