Pressure bleeder for new GMs (and maybe others)

[2ndGearRubber]

Replaced a rear caliper on a 2021? GM truck. Traditional bleeding with two people lead to zero fluid flow, service info says to pressure bleed below 30psi. So now I'm in the market for pressure bleeding tools.


It appears that I can either just pump up the empty container and push the fluid currently in the master cylinder through (to bleed a single wheel), or fill some volume of fluid in the container with the intent to flush the system? Ideally one would fill with fresh fluid in the master cylinder if doing more than a basic single wheel bleed.

Anything I need to look out for with these units? If I can just pump up the empty container, or use shop air, to do a one man bleed on a caliper replacement I think that would be a big plus for me. I'm not trying to use several quarts of brake fluid to flush the entire master and the whole line just to bleed a caliper.


Motive and Mityvac look like the major brands?

 

[turnthewrench 2.0]

Love my Motive. It's a one-man, no mess job with it.

 

[Wamsutta]

I just now checked RockAuto. They're still making the same master cylinder cap for a 2021 Silverado as my 2000 Buick. Unbelievable.

They've had 21 years to re-design a master cylinder cap, but no, they gotta keep the same thing.

That Motive #1108 GM adapter won't take over 10psi without spraying brake fluid all over your engine compartment. But it's not Motive's fault. I blame GM for the stupid ******* twist 'n lock cap. Why not just make the damn thing a threaded cap?!!? Why a twist 'n lock?!!?

If you buy the Motive bleeder and you want to bleed GM's, you gotta pressurize the master cylinder with plain air pressure. Don't put any brake fluid in the Motive bleeder tank. Being that you can't put fluid in the Motive tank, you'll have to make sure you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir!

 

[dnschmidt]

Speedi-Bleed out of Canada is very good and absolutely necessary if you've got a Toyota as the have the only adapter that fits the Toyota master cylinder worth a damn.

 

[tarmy]

Motive. I use it on 3 different Gems. I bought the adaptor for my wifey’s Honda as well. Works great.

 

[Wiz02]

I bought a GM cap adapter for my Motive, it's anodized Aluminum? instead of plastic. Works great, I would have to dig up the link if you are interested.

If you don't want to spend a ton of time cleaning the inside of the Motive's tank, I second the advice to just use it to pressurize the braking system.

I for one, am glad that GM doesn't change designs just for the sake of change. If a part is meeting all of it's design requirements, leave it alone and find lower hanging fruit to redesign

 

[stonesfan68]

I have the Motive unit as well and have used it with multiple GM products (2011+) with no issues at all. The aluminum #0118 cap seals just fine.

Motive Black Label GM

 

[The Critic]

After spending considerable money on pressure bleeders, I have some experience with this:

The electric ones plus the CTA pro series caps are really the cat's meow. Clean, adjustable pressure, no leaks. But $$$

I personally own the Car Certified Tools (previously powerprobe) unit. It is made by Stierius in Germany. Honestly, zero complaints, aside from the fact that it takes 1.5 qt of fluid to keep the unit primed. So, not really a good unit for occasional use or for those folks who like to use different brands/types of brake fluid from vehicle to vehicle.

If you want to spend less money, the Branick units are your next best option. Pressure is adjustable. However, these too - require a certain amount of fluid to stay in them in order for the unit to function.

 

[rust in the eye]

Replaced a rear caliper on a 2021? GM truck. Traditional bleeding with two people lead to zero fluid flow, service info says to pressure bleed below 30psi. So now I'm in the market for pressure bleeding tools.


It appears that I can either just pump up the empty container and push the fluid currently in the master cylinder through (to bleed a single wheel), or fill some volume of fluid in the container with the intent to flush the system? Ideally one would fill with fresh fluid in the master cylinder if doing more than a basic single wheel bleed.

Anything I need to look out for with these units? If I can just pump up the empty container, or use shop air, to do a one man bleed on a caliper replacement I think that would be a big plus for me. I'm not trying to use several quarts of brake fluid to flush the entire master and the whole line just to bleed a caliper.


Motive and Mityvac look like the major brand

If no fluid flow into the caliper when depressing the brake pedal you have a problem. Was the reservoir run dry? If so you'll need to bleed the master cyl. first.
Could also be some crud in the bleeder or caliper blocking the port or a collapsed rubber hose.
I imagine a sizeable caliper for that rig so lots of fluid needs to be displaced to fill it. Have you tried gravity bleeding?

 

[bobg03]

Replaced a rear caliper on a 2021? GM truck. Traditional bleeding with two people lead to zero fluid flow, service info says to pressure bleed below 30psi. So now I'm in the market for pressure bleeding tools.

I can't offer advice as to what to use, but I'm really puzzled why a 2021 truck is already in need of a new caliper..Is this the new world order on the manufacturing process?

I don't think I have ever had a caliper replaced on anything I owned, even the ones that stayed in the fleet approaching the 300K mark b4 they were cast aside.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

If no fluid flow into the caliper when depressing the brake pedal you have a problem. Was the reservoir run dry? If so you'll need to bleed the master cyl. first.
Could also be some crud in the bleeder or caliper blocking the port or a collapsed rubber hose.
I imagine a sizeable caliper for that rig so lots of fluid needs to be displaced to fill it. Have you tried gravity bleeding?

Srevice info specificly states you cannot bleed normally on this model. I believe that when pedal stroke is beyond X Distance and pressure is not built the ABS module segregates that channel from further fluid flow. It doesn't really gravity bleed either. It's like the resting position is with each wheel hydraulically isolated rather than open.

I was able to hook up my vacuum bleeder, push one stroke of fluid through,clear codes, cycle the key, get one more push, etc. Pedal is perfect, no flow/pressure codes, etc.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I can't offer advice as to what to use, but I'm really puzzled why a 2021 truck is already in need of a new caliper..Is this the new world order on the manufacturing process?

I don't think I have ever had a caliper replaced on anything I owned, even the ones that stayed in the fleet approaching the 300K mark b4 they were cast aside.

Happens all the time. It was dragging. Calipers fail all the time in the rust belt. Truck also has like 90k miles on it.

 

[rust in the eye]

Srevice info specificly states you cannot bleed normally on this model. I believe that when pedal stroke is beyond X Distance and pressure is not built the ABS module segregates that channel from further fluid flow. It doesn't really gravity bleed either. It's like the resting position is with each wheel hydraulically isolated rather than open.

I was able to hook up my vacuum bleeder, push one stroke of fluid through,clear codes, cycle the key, get one more push, etc. Pedal is perfect, no flow/pressure codes, etc.

Understood. Makes sense now that you've explained.
I seldom work on anything not old enough to vote

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Is the Motive product line brake-clean resistant? Like I can hose it down prior to storage?

I'm thinking about the XLT bleeder kit. Not sure if I want metal or plastic adapters. Doesn't appear Motive makes specific honda or toyota adapters, which is insane to me.


Speedi-bleed looks pretty complete in their K01A kit.

 

[Mikes61]

Another vote for Motive and yes it’s impervious to Brake Clean. I even bleed my boat trailer surge brakes with my Motive. I ordered the attachment directly from Motive.

 

[dlwilson]

I have a Motive, but I've only used it on my G-body El Caminos. Those cars have a rectangular lid for the master cylinder reservoir, which snaps on. Motive makes an aluminum plate, with a setup of chains and j-hooks and wingnuts to clamp it down. It doesn't work well for me, as I have to add big c-clamp to make it seal, and even then it usually leaks fluid everywhere before I get it set up correctly. But I bet it would great on a reservoir with a screw-on top.

 

[turnthewrench 2.0]

Is the Motive product line brake-clean resistant? Like I can hose it down prior to storage?

I'm thinking about the XLT bleeder kit. Not sure if I want metal or plastic adapters. Doesn't appear Motive makes specific honda or toyota adapters, which is insane to me.


Speedi-bleed looks pretty complete in their K01A kit.

I clean mine with ethanol. I believed that's the recommended method in the manual.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Speedi-Bleed out of Canada is very good and absolutely necessary if you've got a Toyota as the have the only adapter that fits the Toyota master cylinder worth a damn.

I believe this is now my current front runner. Labeled metal adapters is a big plus for me. I can say I will NOT be powering it via a tire. LOL


EDIT: I figure with a 30psi max pressure, I might want to regulate down the shop air a bit rather than exposing the tool and its control valve to 130 static air pressure?

 

[Wamsutta]

I have the Motive unit as well and have used it with multiple GM products (2011+) with no issues at all. The aluminum #0118 cap seals just fine.

Motive Black Label GM

I don't know how you managed to pull that off. I've tried both of the included adapter gaskets and they both leak. The Motive is a great bleeder but GM's cap design is not bleeder friendly.

 

[Wamsutta]

Is the Motive product line brake-clean resistant? Like I can hose it down prior to storage?

I'm thinking about the XLT bleeder kit. Not sure if I want metal or plastic adapters. Doesn't appear Motive makes specific honda or toyota adapters, which is insane to me.


Speedi-bleed looks pretty complete in their K01A kit.

They recommend denatured alcohol instead of brake-clean if your state hasn't banned it.

 

[39CAMC]

It appears that I can either just pump up the empty container and push the fluid currently in the master cylinder through (to bleed a single wheel), or fill some volume of fluid in the container with the intent to flush the system? Ideally one would fill with fresh fluid in the master cylinder if doing more than a basic single wheel bleed.

So most of the bleeds I do are for performance stuff with performance fluid $$, so I basically *never* fill the Motive/Mityvac with fluid itself and just use the air to push it through. The cheapest fluid we sell is $12 bottle and some of them are $80+, no way I can waste extra bottles.

THe other reason is that (at least for the Motive, which I have the most adapters) the seal between reservoir and adapter can be super sketchy. If it won't hold air pressure, then fine, fiddle with it until it does. If it won't hold fluid pressure, it sprays or drips it all over the place.

DaveW

 

[2ndGearRubber]

So most of the bleeds I do are for performance stuff with performance fluid $$, so I basically *never* fill the Motive/Mityvac with fluid itself and just use the air to push it through. The cheapest fluid we sell is $12 bottle and some of them are $80+, no way I can waste extra bottles.

THe other reason is that (at least for the Motive, which I have the most adapters) the seal between reservoir and adapter can be super sketchy. If it won't hold air pressure, then fine, fiddle with it until it does. If it won't hold fluid pressure, it sprays or drips it all over the place.

DaveW

I do 1-2 actual brake flushes per year. Very rare. So I think the air pressure method just to bleed a single line is much easier. Worst case I can just refill the master as needed. If the air leaks a bit I doubt it will matter as there's still a pressure differential to move some fluid.

I'm thinking I fill up the master, add air pressure, crack a bleeder, get solid fluid, close bleeder, turn off the pressure. I doubt I'll use any sort of collector bottle/tubing, just a drip pan like normal manual bleeding.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Motiv is a good pressure bleeder. What I had done for a Honda that I needed to bleed is that I got a brake reservoir cap for the Honda from a junkyard, drilled a hole it and put a brass barbed fitting with a nut, through the hole. I had used some rubber washers between the cap and nut and the fitting. I then just attached Motiv hose to that barbed fitting. Worked great. You can do the same for this GM cap.

 

[Wiz02]

I don't know how you managed to pull that off. I've tried both of the included adapter gaskets and they both leak. The Motive is a great bleeder but GM's cap design is not bleeder friendly.

Motiv is a good pressure bleeder. What I had done for a Honda that I needed to bleed is that I got a brake reservoir cap for the Honda from a junkyard, drilled a hole it and put a brass barbed fitting with a nut, through the hole. I had used some rubber washers between the cap and nut and the fitting. I then just attached Motiv hose to that barbed fitting. Worked great. You can do the same for this GM cap.

Great idea, wish that I thought of it before buying an adapter.

 

[39CAMC]

I do 1-2 actual brake flushes per year. Very rare. So I think the air pressure method just to bleed a single line is much easier. Worst case I can just refill the master as needed. If the air leaks a bit I doubt it will matter as there's still a pressure differential to move some fluid.

I'm thinking I fill up the master, add air pressure, crack a bleeder, get solid fluid, close bleeder, turn off the pressure. I doubt I'll use any sort of collector bottle/tubing, just a drip pan like normal manual bleeding.

Yes, that is the exact procedure I use. I do use bottles to catch but obviously not required.

Brake bleeding is like religion and oil....everyone has a favorite and the rest of them ****, so with this next part, I am just telling you what I do and not pushing you in any direction....

I keep several of these around the shop https://allstarperformance.com/bleeder-bottle-w-magnet-and-check-valve-all11017/

When I pressure bleed, I use them to catch, but for the majority of other things I do, I can use this alone, with a little fluid in the bottle to start and slow pump to bleed the complete system. It's 100% on flushes but of course, you don't do many of those. But it works 95% of the time for brake line changes, caliper changes and things like that. I have even used it for a few MC changes on older cars with no ABS or simple ABS systems. No way it would work on the newer stuff like the truck you were working on that diverts so quickly with no pressure, but for a lot of simple parts changes, it works very well (and quickly) for me. I have all the motive stuff and adapters but don't use them very often.

Once again, not trying to force anything on you, just telling you what I have found success with. I do more than the average number of flushes and brake line changes (lots of upgrade to braided stainless), a normal amount of caliper changes, but way less than the average number of MC changes, wholesale hard line replacements, etc...so we live in different worlds.

HTH,

DaveW

 

[Wamsutta]

Motiv is a good pressure bleeder. What I had done for a Honda that I needed to bleed is that I got a brake reservoir cap for the Honda from a junkyard, drilled a hole it and put a brass barbed fitting with a nut, through the hole. I had used some rubber washers between the cap and nut and the fitting. I then just attached Motiv hose to that barbed fitting. Worked great. You can do the same for this GM cap.

That's probably what I'll end up doing. If it works out, that'll mean GM's cap seals better than Motive's adapter. That would change the whole spectrum.

 

[dnschmidt]

I believe this is now my current front runner. Labeled metal adapters is a big plus for me. I can say I will NOT be powering it via a tire. LOL


EDIT: I figure with a 30psi max pressure, I might want to regulate down the shop air a bit rather than exposing the tool and its control valve to 130 static air pressure?

The tire thing isn't as bad as you think. The idea works surprisingly well. You're going to need a serious in line pressure regulator if you decide to use shop air. Another option is to use an air tank rather than a tire. Speedi-bleed's metal caps are the bomb.

 

[gizardlizard]

I have a Speedi bleed as well. Use it on Toyota, Lexus and Honda vehicles. The caps are anodized aluminum with O ring seals. They fit PERFECTLY and have yet to leak a drop under pressure.

 

[gungatim]

I can't offer advice as to what to use, but I'm really puzzled why a 2021 truck is already in need of a new caliper..Is this the new world order on the manufacturing process?

I don't think I have ever had a caliper replaced on anything I owned, even the ones that stayed in the fleet approaching the 300K mark b4 they were cast aside.

I had to do the calipers on my '16, they rust up and seize, it's a stupid design.

I didn't even have to bleed them. put them on, crack the bleeder and let it gravity flow for a half hour. Done. So much easier to let gravity do the work.

 

[wafrederick]

Not done with a pressure bleeder,done with a scan tool.Did it with a 2022 Silverado this way and it not easy

 

[Buckgnarly]

I added a shut off valve on my Motive so I don't have to pump it up all over if I need to add fluid to the master. I never bother filling the reservoir, waste of fluid and/or clean up time.
I'm gonna check out this Speedi bleed thing though, looks like a pretty complete and clean kit!

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Not done with a pressure bleeder,done with a scan tool.Did it with a 2022 Silverado this way and it not easy

What was your method for this? I looked for something like "automated bleed" on my snap on and didn't find it. I didn't try any other tools before I tried and successfully brute forced with a vacuum bleeder. Afterwards I did use the scan tool "leak check" function, but I think it just wanted you to visually look for leakage. I was hoping it could charge X psi into each channel and watch for decay rate.


These GM brake systems are so screwed up now. Can't push calipers back with more than 50% fluid level, touchy parking brake calibration, etc.

The tire thing isn't as bad as you think. The idea works surprisingly well. You're going to need a serious in line pressure regulator if you decide to use shop air. Another option is to use an air tank rather than a tire. Speedi-bleed's metal caps are the bomb.

Reading their FAQ they claim to only lose 2-3 psi from the donor tire. I suppose I can give that a try prior to making another solution. Normally I adjust air pressure much earlier in the process of a brake job, so I'd only need to top off the one tire.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Hmm...I put a quick attach on my Motive, wonder if it will work with those Speedi Bleed adaptors. The tire pressure thing seems wonkey.....like they decided on that after a few beers on a Friday night in the shop!

 

[dnschmidt]

Hmm...I put a quick attach on my Motive, wonder if it will work with those Speedi Bleed adaptors. The tire pressure thing seems wonkey.....like they decided on that after a few beers on a Friday night in the shop!

You don't need that much pressure and air if you can do the job without dragging out an air hose why not. There is no continuous use of the air like in an air tool. I have a Milwaukee tire pressure pump (M18) and it fills the donor tire, normally driver's front, back to full pressure in no time. I thought the idea sucked when I first heard it too, but it makes a lot of sense. You can use the thing anywhere whether you've got a compressor handy or not. it's basically like filling a spray can with propellent. Once it's filled it's filled.

 

[Buckgnarly]

You don't need that much pressure and air if you can do the job without dragging out an air hose why not. There is no continuous use of the air like in an air tool. I have a Milwaukee tire pressure pump (M18) and it fills the donor tire, normally driver's front, back to full pressure in no time. I thought the idea sucked when I first heard it too, but it makes a lot of sense. You can use the thing anywhere whether you've got a compressor handy or not. it's basically like filling a spray can with propellent. Once it's filled it's filled.

I'll stick to the Motive sprayer type tank. Can pump that up to a specific pressure, wait for leaks, then pump as needed if ever needed. I usually go to 10psi and do a full bleed uisng less than 1psi.

Grabbed the adaptor kit, gonna make them work with my Motive setup. I LOVE that they marked the tops, the Motive has none of that on their adaptors.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I'll stick to the Motive sprayer type tank. Can pump that up to a specific pressure, wait for leaks, then pump as needed if ever needed. I usually go to 10psi and do a full bleed uisng less than 1psi.

Grabbed the adaptor kit, gonna make them work with my Motive setup. I LOVE that they marked the tops, the Motive has none of that on their adaptors.

I just bought the K03A kit from speedi-bleed, partially because of those labels. I decided to forgo the "old domestic" adapters because I know I can vacuum bleed those and there's like zero of those cars left around here that I work on. The lack of labels from Motive was a big negative for me.

I can't wait to bleed a caliper without the noise/inconvenience of a vacuum bleeder AND without having to interact with another human being for regular 2-person bleeding.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I just bought the K03A kit from speedi-bleed, partially because of those labels. I decided to forgo the "old domestic" adapters because I know I can vacuum bleed those and there's like zero of those cars left around here that I work on. The lack of labels from Motive was a big negative for me.

I can't wait to bleed a caliper without the noise/inconvenience of a vacuum bleeder AND without having to interact with another human being for regular 2-person bleeding.

I DO NOT miss the damn HISSSSSSS of the vacuum bleeder!

I teach the kids 2 man method, mainly because the labor is cheap and it keeps 2 hoodlums busy for a bit, but once they try the Motive/pressure it's all they want.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have a Speedi bleed as well. Use it on Toyota, Lexus and Honda vehicles. The caps are anodized aluminum with O ring seals. They fit PERFECTLY and have yet to leak a drop under pressure.

In the video did the guy attach one end of the hose to a tire?

 

[gizardlizard]

In the video did the guy attach one end of the hose to a tire?

Yes. The kit comes with an air chuck whip. That’s for people who don’t have compressed air at home. Most like myself, just go directly to a compressor.

 

[Wrench97]

I can't offer advice as to what to use, but I'm really puzzled why a 2021 truck is already in need of a new caliper..Is this the new world order on the manufacturing process?

I don't think I have ever had a caliper replaced on anything I owned, even the ones that stayed in the fleet approaching the 300K mark b4 they were cast aside.

I did calipers on a 2022 MB Metris this morning, it has 165,000 miles on it.