Pressure Relief valve placement?

[Joe Cool]

I need some help with the final placement for the pressure relief valve on my radiant heat system.
I know that it is recommended that the valve be the first device coming from the boiler and the boiler manual also states that the valve must be installed in the vertical position.

I would like to plumb the valve towards the right of the entire system but to do this I would need to raise the valve about 4" to clear the boiler. Can I install a 4" piece of copper pipe between the Tee fitting and the valve or must the valve be connected right on the tee fitting as pictured?

Thanks in advance.

Joe

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Can you clock the valve another 90 degrees,then just come out and 90 it down with the drip leg?

 

[larry_g]

I'm not a plumber so take the following as a good guess. Doesn't that valve relieve on over temp and/or over pressure. So the further you remove it from the temp source the less sensitive it will be.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[acmikee]

yes you can raise it up. it is on the outlet of the boiler?
also install a union on the discharge side of the relief and pipe the drain to outside of the bldg.(check local codes)

 

[Joe Cool]

Can you clock the valve another 90 degrees,then just come out and 90 it down with the drip leg?

I am trying to avoid doing that to keep it from interfering with the rest of the plumbing.

 

[Joe Cool]

yes you can raise it up. it is on the outlet of the boiler?
also install a union on the discharge side of the relief and pipe the drain to outside of the bldg.(check local codes)

It is on the outlet side and I fully intend to use a union on the piping so that I can disconnect the pipe and easily remove the valve if it ever needs to be replaced.

I would like to pipe the valve over the boiler and down the opposite side of the boiler away from all the other plumbing.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Do you have a better picture of the boiler?

 

[rlitman]

I'm not a plumber so take the following as a good guess. Doesn't that valve relieve on over temp and/or over pressure. So the further you remove it from the temp source the less sensitive it will be.

lg
no neat sig line

No. A T&P valve is for a storage tank (like a water heater). This is a pressure (only) relief valve.

 

[dfiler2]

No. A T&P valve is for a storage tank (like a water heater). This is a pressure (only) relief valve.

T&P stands for Temperature and Pressure, generally the probe needs to be long enough to be inside the actual heating appliance.

 

[Joe Cool]

Do you have a better picture of the boiler?

Like this? I originally planned to mount the valve horizontal in order to achieve my goal but then I finally decided to read the boiler manual where it clearly states the valve must be installed vertically. Duh!

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

Don't get fancy. This config could fill the valve full of water and make you boiler a bomb.

The valve must be in the upright position, your first picture was correct. Just run the pipe strait done to the manifold area and be happy.

 

[mygarageone]

Yes the valve has to be vertical , keeps sediment from collecting at the seat and t&p valves are not used in boilers .

 

[pstnbly]

Like this? I originally planned to mount the valve horizontal in order to achieve my goal but then I finally decided to read the boiler manual where it clearly states the valve must be installed vertically. Duh!

It is not legal nor recommended to be installed in the manner shown in the picture. Any release or weeping will collect in the valve body possibly causing the valve to seize closed defeating safe operation. Non operable boiler valve turns the boiler into a bomb.

 

[Joe Cool]

I have changed the orientation of the valve since reading in the manual that it must be placed vertically in the system. The above picture of the entire layout was an old picture to demonstrate where I wanted to route any water/steam exiting the valve.

 

[sands35]

Rotated it on the wrong 90* axis. From the original orientation, rotate it about a vertical axis, not a horizontal one as you did. Looks like you may need to re-solder that joint back to vertical. If you can't clock the valve 90* in the thread, then you will have to re-solder the female joint clocked ~90*.

Just blow the over pressure straight down from the valve. One 90* elbow to turn it down from the outlet of the valve. Maybe put two 45*s to kink it behind the bottom manifold.

No need to go over the heater. If you must, then space the valve up so you don't add in two 90* elbows. Any over-pressure needs to be blown off cleanly.

It needs to terminate within ~4" of the floor.