Pressure Test Fitting for Radiant Heat System

[redpost]

Before filling my newly installed radiant heating system I want to pressure test the piping joints and six zones of pex as a unit. The most logical hookup location for a test fitting would be the fill or drain valve connections, which have standard "garden hose" threads.

Is there an air test fitting made to thread into this type of connection or will I have to fabricate one and add a male air hose connector to my compressor? I plan to air test and check for pressure drop as well as soap test all accessible joints.

 

[mygarageone]

They used to make them , check out the local hardware .

 

[Sureshot]

The thread matches 3/4" pipe if you have stuff laying around or look at the thread about blowing out airlines for winter.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220077

 

[thammel]

Yes, this is typical for pressure testing plumbing and gas systems. What I did was to connect my 3 loops in series with sharkbite couples. The I put an end cap on one end and a gauge with schrader valve on the other end. I pressurized with my air compressor to 30 psia so I could check as the pad was poured.

Tom

 

[mygarageone]

The thread matches 3/4" pipe if you have stuff laying around or look at the thread about blowing out airlines for winter.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220077

The threaded end of a hose bib is not the same as a threaded pipe. but they make a connection that will adapt the two different threads.

 

[Highbeam]

I used a water pressure test gauge that runs up to 100 psi for my tubes. **** connected all the loops and then pumped her up to 100 and left it for months. The home depot sold the gas test version that only goes up to 30 psi.

 

[Sureshot]

The threaded end of a hose bib is not the same as a threaded pipe. but they make a connection that will adapt the two different threads.

But it will work good enough to pressure up the lines. Falls between an atomic clock and a sundial.

 

[mygarageone]

I used a water pressure test gauge that runs up to 100 psi for my tubes. **** connected all the loops and then pumped her up to 100 and left it for months. The home depot sold the gas test version that only goes up to 30 psi.

This is exactly why we have the DIY issues , pumping your system up to 100 #'s of pressure is stupid. The system will never see anything more than
30 #'s. . 100 PSI will only cause problems you 'll never know about down the road and you never figure out why or what happened !

 

[98ssuck]

What type of pex did up use? Some or warrentied for leaks. I found the best way is to fill the system up to city water pressure. Record the pressure and tempature then leave overnight.

 

[mygarageone]

What type of pex did up use? Some or warrentied for leaks. I found the best way is to fill the system up to city water pressure. Record the pressure and tempature then leave overnight.

If you are talking about a radiant floor system , you need to use pex pipe designed for radiant heating systems. There are 2 types , one will have a oxygen barrior built into it and the other won't

 

[Highbeam]

This is exactly why we have the DIY issues , pumping your system up to 100 #'s of pressure is stupid. The system will never see anything more than
30 #'s. . 100 PSI will only cause problems you 'll never know about down the road and you never figure out why or what happened !

Well since this pipe is rated for well over 100 psi (I think 140?) I don't find it to be stupid at all to air test it at 100 psi. In fact, I think it is stupid not to. Low pressure tests are close enough for contractors which is why many DIY guys don't hire you guys.

What kind of problems could testing at 100 psi cause? I would hate to be stupid. Remember this is just pex. We air test it in plumbing systems at 100 psi.

 

[mygarageone]

Well since this pipe is rated for well over 100 psi (I think 140?) I don't find it to be stupid at all to air test it at 100 psi. In fact, I think it is stupid not to. Low pressure tests are close enough for contractors which is why many DIY guys don't hire you guys.

What kind of problems could testing at 100 psi cause? I would hate to be stupid. Remember this is just pex. We air test it in plumbing systems at 100 psi.

Plumbing pex and heating pex are not the same , yes they are both pex but one is rated for plumbing and one for radiant heating.

It's like copper pipe , it's all copper but different there is K,L,M and DWV . they are all copper but not the same.

 

[Highbeam]

Plumbing pex and heating pex are not the sax , yes they are both pex but one is rated for plumbing and one for radiant heating.

That's what I thought, you have no idea. This is why I choose to DIY as much as possible.

 

[redpost]

Thanks to all for the information. Here's what I found at a local RV supply store to do the job.

 

[mygarageone]

That's what I thought, you have no idea. This is why I choose to DIY as much as possible.

Typical DIYer , think they know more than they do.

Your a civil engineer , you of all people should know , you can have the same kind of materials and have them serve two different functions based on the heat treating used for the steel or iron. One can be soft and pliable and one can be hard and ridged , yet both the same thickness and shape. Depending on what they do with it before it leaves the plant .

 

[brewchief]

This is exactly why we have the DIY issues , pumping your system up to 100 #'s of pressure is stupid. The system will never see anything more than
30 #'s. . 100 PSI will only cause problems you 'll never know about down the road and you never figure out why or what happened !

In my years doing HVAC I've done quite a few radiant systems, everything from a simple zone for a kitchen floor to 5000 square foot houses with infloor in every room. On every single one of them I've pressure tested at 100 psi, if the guys pouring concrete damage a tube I want them to know instantly, when the tile guy puts a nail though my tube run in climate panels I want to know(at 100 psi it only dropped 15 lbs overnight, I doubt it would have showed at a lower test pressure).

 

[Sureshot]

Typical DIYer , think they know more than they do.

Your a civil engineer , you of all people should know , you can have the same kind of materials and have them serve two different functions based on the heat treating used for the steel or iron. One can be soft and pliable and one can be hard and ridged , yet both the same thickness and shape. Depending on what they do with it before it leaves the plant .

At least we have a hero among us to rescue us mere mortals.

 

[D.J.]

In my opinion, if that style is used you should also use a shutoff valve to screw it into and after pressurizing it you should shutoff the valve and read and record the temp and pressure as stated above. I would recommend a quarter turn valve for this application.

 

[mygarageone]

At least we have a hero among us to rescue us mere mortals.

And of course you are the person , the all know it DIYer.

Radiant floor tubing has an oxygen barrier built into it and regular Pex does not , that's the difference.
One is made specifically for radiant floor heating and the other is for plumbing systems.
That's the difference

 

[anthony666]

mygarageone .. what are you so angry about ???

 

[Highbeam]

Radiant floor tubing has an oxygen barrier built into it and regular Pex does not , that's the difference.
One is made specifically for radiant floor heating and the other is for plumbing systems.
That's the difference

Yet both are rated for pressures well over 100 psi. That's the question, why don't you pressure test to 100 psi? Is it because your poor workmanship would fail the test?You just don't know any better? You don't have the proper equipment? What are you trying to hide?

 

[mygarageone]

Yet both are rated for pressures well over 100 psi. That's the question, why don't you pressure test to 100 psi? Is it because your poor workmanship would fail the test?You just don't know any better? You don't have the proper equipment? What are you trying to hide?

I have been in the business for more yrs than I suspect you are old . I learned through the ranks of the union and men who knew what was right and what wasn't . There is no logical reason to test any radiant tubing at 100# when it will never see much of anything over 30# . We always test at twice the pressure the system will at any time have , there no reason to test at any higher pressures.
By the way , any time we have done any commercial work , the spec's never called out for pressures on anything as high as you want to use.

About the only time we ever used pressures that high for for High Pressure steam and or Gas lines inside a building.

 

[dieselgarage]

The instruction I got from the guy who did my design. Was to pressure test at 75PSI for 24 hours, maintain 30PSI during the pour.

 

[redpost]

Many of the engineered industrial components and fluid systems I've worked on have specified test pressures as a percent of design pressure. They were tested at either 110 %, 135%, or 150% of design pressure. Maybe a reactor system or a safety-critical boiler system might specify a test pressure at a higher percentage than those values but I see no need to go any higher on an in-floor radiant heat system.

I recommend checking the design pressures of the materials being used in a system as a key factor in determining the proper test pressure.

 

[Glivin]

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum and found this thread searching for an answer online. My question was the same as the guy who posted this thread, how do I pressure test a radiant heating system? Apparently I have a few options from what I have read, but there must be an easier way to do so. Building a pressure test system will be done if no other options are left on the table, but I'd assume a room full of experts would know better. Is there in fact a fitting of some sort that pressure tests systems? This would save me a lot of time, and progress my installation quite smoothly. Thank You!

 

[kj_mustang]

Use a pressure test kit that screws into the manifold.
Pressure Test kit

 

[Yourfired]

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum and found this thread searching for an answer online. My question was the same as the guy who posted this thread, how do I pressure test a radiant heating system? Apparently I have a few options from what I have read, but there must be an easier way to do so. Building a pressure test system will be done if no other options are left on the table, but I'd assume a room full of experts would know better. Is there in fact a fitting of some sort that pressure tests systems? This would save me a lot of time, and progress my installation quite smoothly. Thank You!

So reading over your question it seems that you’re looking for an easy and readily available fitting that pressure tests a radiant heating system for you. I did some researching on the topic for you as well as adding in my own two cents and this is what I got.

You are obviously installing Oxygen Barrier PEX tubing if it is for a radiant heating system, and I assume there were load calculations done as well. It is better to do these types of installations with licensed professionals, and make sure that you follow the steps properly before pouring the cement. I have actually found a good little read for you that will aid you in not only pressure testing your system, but pressure testing it properly and through which steps to do so.

This article http://www.canarsee.com/pressure-test-radiant-heat-system-pex has some information that should aid you in pressure testing as well as a link to the fitting that you are searching for.

Remember you will be pouring concrete over the rebar, so it is crucial to avoid any mistakes now as it will be a nuisance to fix them later.

 

[Yourfired]

And Mustang I just checked the link you posted. Compared to other online stores this supply charges almost 20% over the market price on all the inventory I just saw. Your better off dealing with any other supply or even going to your local supply. Even their PEX tubing which is their main item is sold for well over its cost price.

 

[finn]

Menards has a simple pressure test adaptor, as do most other box stores.

I adapted the tester to access the system through the port for the temperature gage fitting. Simply removed the gage for the test and replaced it after I was satisfied there were no leaks.

As to max test pressure, 150%-200% of operating pressure should be enough. most systems seem to specify ~12 psi operating pressure, so 30 si would be more than adequate. The point is to check for leaks, not induce failure.

I'd be more worried about pump seals and heat exchanger / expansion tank integrity than pex rupture at high pressures. Your pop-off valve should be rated lower than 100 psi anyway. (can't remember the rating, but it is low)

A leak check may not find a problem like a drywall screw partially piercing a pex tube. That type failure will occur after the system is temperature cycled and the resulting relative motion fretts the tube to the point of failure.

 

[Glivin]

So reading over your question it seems that you’re looking for an easy and readily available fitting that pressure tests a radiant heating system for you. I did some researching on the topic for you as well as adding in my own two cents and this is what I got.

You are obviously installing Oxygen Barrier PEX tubing if it is for a radiant heating system, and I assume there were load calculations done as well. It is better to do these types of installations with licensed professionals, and make sure that you follow the steps properly before pouring the cement. I have actually found a good little read for you that will aid you in not only pressure testing your system, but pressure testing it properly and through which steps to do so.

This article http://www.canarsee.com/pressure-test-radiant-heat-system-pex has some information that should aid you in pressure testing as well as a link to the fitting that you are searching for.

Remember you will be pouring concrete over the rebar, so it is crucial to avoid any mistakes now as it will be a nuisance to fix them later.

Thank you to both your responses, and I appreciate the help. So looking into what you have both posted It seems like you guys are spot on, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you yourfired, that was a helpful read and the pressure test kit at the bottom of the article is much cheaper and free shipping as well. Mustang I appreciate the help as well, just don't like paying big bucks for uponor materials, when they are exactly the same as their competitors. I am a very simple man, and for a one time use I don't see the need for it. I am going to purchase the test kit from canarsee right now. This is a great forum, if I have any other questions I will make sure to be back.

 

[Yourfired]

Thank you to both your responses, and I appreciate the help. So looking into what you have both posted It seems like you guys are spot on, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you yourfired, that was a helpful read and the pressure test kit at the bottom of the article is much cheaper and free shipping as well. Mustang I appreciate the help as well, just don't like paying big bucks for uponor materials, when they are exactly the same as their competitors. I am a very simple man, and for a one time use I don't see the need for it. I am going to purchase the test kit from canarsee right now. This is a great forum, if I have any other questions I will make sure to be back.

No problem, glad to offer any help I can. If you have any more questions regarding the subject feel free to ask. There are some pretty knowledgeable members on this website.