kirk.g
Well-known member
What happens if you mix non galvanized metal with pressure treated wood?
pressure treated wood and non galvanized
- Thread starter kirk.g
- Start date
trbomax
Well-known member
You will have corrosion problems.
jdieter
Well-known member
So how do you handle the interface between the two to prevent corrision if alternate materials are not an option?
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
What are you doing so that it may better be answered? Building a bench with a steel top or putting a 4x4 on a piece of steel? there are many ways to do it, but if you let us know what it is you are doing, we may be able to come up with a simple solution. Something like a rubber gasket between the two may be a simple solution but may not be cost effective. See what I'm getting at?
PT is formaldehyde and copper naphthenate. Its not that the PT wood will corrode the steel, its that the steel it self isnt corosion resisant. You can get Cold Galv which is a high zinc spray 'paint', and ads a decent layer of resistance.
-Jeff
-Jeff
Frank The Plumber
Well-known member
Seeing as how this seems to be a real topic lately don't you guys feel that it really stinks if the manufacturers of the wood are not putting wordage on the material that warns or advises of material interface problems. It should say boldly warning SS only or comparable approved.
Are we the consumer supposed to go on the inter net and hunt for answers to what type of screw type to use with each and every project and each and every type of wood.
I personally would like to see something with a lot more strength than an SS screw or hardware, there must be several types of coated products made of a quality steel that can be used.
I feel that this is a situation of short sited product explanation on the part of the manufacturers of these products. Do they think that every guy who goes into the home store is going to be knowledgeable enough to buy the right fasteners.
And have you seen the cost of a box of SS deck screws? I think I bought a 5lb box for a cedar deck and it was $35. Who is not going to buy the $8 box of fasteners for Mrs. Applebaums deck and run away?
To make it all worse the last batch of Indonesian SS fasteners that I used seem to have rotted anyway.
Are we the consumer supposed to go on the inter net and hunt for answers to what type of screw type to use with each and every project and each and every type of wood.
I personally would like to see something with a lot more strength than an SS screw or hardware, there must be several types of coated products made of a quality steel that can be used.
I feel that this is a situation of short sited product explanation on the part of the manufacturers of these products. Do they think that every guy who goes into the home store is going to be knowledgeable enough to buy the right fasteners.
And have you seen the cost of a box of SS deck screws? I think I bought a 5lb box for a cedar deck and it was $35. Who is not going to buy the $8 box of fasteners for Mrs. Applebaums deck and run away?
To make it all worse the last batch of Indonesian SS fasteners that I used seem to have rotted anyway.
What I am doing is replacing rotted out sill plate 2x4,s on an old garage.I was going to replace with 2x4 pressure treated. I have already bought wood for this purpose.I was going to bracket up to the studs which are not PT.The brackets are steel (non galvanized).I think at this point I should just use spruce for the sill plate and save some money,after all the original lasted for 50 yrs.......I bought some green screws for the PT but they are over twice the $ so I think I will take them back.............thanks Kirk
"replacing rotted out sill plate"?
Yeah, use some PT lumber, because the sill plate is most likely against the mudsill/stemwall masonry, which is damp/wet. And damp/wet masonry against wood means damp/wet wood, which means rot or insects unless PT lumber is used.
Which -most- building codes call out for the use of PT lumber against foundation masonry. Just for that reason.
The 'newer' PT chemical(s) are typically much more corrosive to metal (as I said in your -other- thread on this subject, I though maybe a mod would have joined/collapsed these two threads into one by now?).
For the tie-downs of the wall studs to the sill plate (if required or if desired), just use the 'rated' brackets. Rated for that use and for use when touching PT lumber. What's the price difference between the 'right' coated/galvanized brackets and the 'plain' ones anyway? Maybe ~$100-$200 for a garage?
Use the right lumber in the right places, and the right brackets in the right places, and the right fasteners to hold those brackets to the lumber as well.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/category_list.html
http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/zmax.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion_risks.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWoodFAQs.html
etc, etc, etc
Yeah, use some PT lumber, because the sill plate is most likely against the mudsill/stemwall masonry, which is damp/wet. And damp/wet masonry against wood means damp/wet wood, which means rot or insects unless PT lumber is used.
Which -most- building codes call out for the use of PT lumber against foundation masonry. Just for that reason.
The 'newer' PT chemical(s) are typically much more corrosive to metal (as I said in your -other- thread on this subject, I though maybe a mod would have joined/collapsed these two threads into one by now?).
For the tie-downs of the wall studs to the sill plate (if required or if desired), just use the 'rated' brackets. Rated for that use and for use when touching PT lumber. What's the price difference between the 'right' coated/galvanized brackets and the 'plain' ones anyway? Maybe ~$100-$200 for a garage?
Use the right lumber in the right places, and the right brackets in the right places, and the right fasteners to hold those brackets to the lumber as well.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/category_list.html
http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/zmax.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion_risks.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWoodFAQs.html
etc, etc, etc
rogsmart
Well-known member
Just a couple of quick points.
The fir of 50 years ago is not the fir of today, i.e. the stuff you buy today isn't going to last nearly as long.
Most codes mandate P.T. anywhere you have concrete contact. (As a homeowner you can do whatever you ****** well like of course
)
Home Depot, of which there are three in the greater Toronto area, generally carries an extensive line of Simpson Strong Tie clips, anchors, brackets, etc. Their stuff is labeled as to which ones work with P.T. lumber.
The P.T. with the correct fasteners, and brackets is the right way to go. Unless you are replacing the the sill plate all the way around the garage the price difference is not going to be a budget buster.
Just my 2 cents (maybe 10 with inflation) But whatever you decide to do, git er done, old man winter is lurking right around the corner.
(Moonrise beat me to it, dang it, didn't type fast enough)
The fir of 50 years ago is not the fir of today, i.e. the stuff you buy today isn't going to last nearly as long.
Most codes mandate P.T. anywhere you have concrete contact. (As a homeowner you can do whatever you ****** well like of course
)Home Depot, of which there are three in the greater Toronto area, generally carries an extensive line of Simpson Strong Tie clips, anchors, brackets, etc. Their stuff is labeled as to which ones work with P.T. lumber.
The P.T. with the correct fasteners, and brackets is the right way to go. Unless you are replacing the the sill plate all the way around the garage the price difference is not going to be a budget buster.
Just my 2 cents (maybe 10 with inflation) But whatever you decide to do, git er done, old man winter is lurking right around the corner.
(Moonrise beat me to it, dang it, didn't type fast enough
)Moonrise and Rogsmart,I am sure there are even more than three H.Depots around here.I didnt know the fir of today is different from 50 years ago. Are the Chinese making fir trees now?Pls advize Im just curious. The garage is 20x20 and I think well built in my humble opinion,however it was placed on only about 7 cinder blocks that were cut in half.The side walls slipped off these blocks and are bowed out so I am going to replace the sill plate and put down many more blocks and then level.I found no blocks at all at the front of the garage,so basically half of the garage has been resting on the ground for some years now...................I need to replace about half the tong and groove panelling on the back wall and the same for the rt.side thats why i guess Im maybe trying to save a little bit on replacing the sill plate..... I just want to get this thing up and off the ground and water tight before winter.I posted this thread twice in error sorry..........so thanks for the input....Kirk
csp
Well-known member
The lumber grown today grows very fast, leading to larger spacing between the growth rings. Tighter spaced growth rings (slower growing) is stronger wood and more resistant to rot, insects, etc..