Pressure Washer Frame Supplement?

[Beamer]

My pressure washer has a welded 1" strainless steel tube frame running on each of two sides with loops up on the ends.
The problem is that the handles are very low and it is a back breaker to move around.
The company wised up and the new models have high bars but tat doesn't help me any because they are of a different design (bolted) and pieces are not available individually.

I'm looking for ideas on supplementing the handle(s) to waist high or better. Right now they are about knee high.
I'm thinking the end to change would be nearest to the wheels so the unit can be tipped to roll without having to hold the weight up like is required at the opposite end.

 

[The Cobbler]

can you weld? sounds like an easy project .
if not, buy a cheap 2 wheel handcart, cut it up & bolt on the handle to part of the existing frame?

 

[Beamer]

Cobbler,
I have a cracker jack welder who will help out.
The question is about the details.
I don't want to cut the original frame which is water tight.

 

[Stelzer]

Post a pic of your setup or at least the specific model for most useful feedback

 

[Beamer]

Post a pic of your setup or at least the specific model for most useful feedback

Thanks. I skipped adding the pictures. Duh.

 

[Firebrick43]

No need to cut the tube, just have a tube bent, notched, and welded on top of the original hoop. It can be narrower than the original

If no bender is accessible for hire you can buy schedule 40 **** connector elbows .

https://www.mcmaster.com/45605K512/

https://www.mcmaster.com/44635K426/

 

[RTM]

I'd just come straight up from the outside edge of the tubing, get your overlapping bits bent or cut to match the diameter of the existing tube.

 

[rust in the eye]

I wonder if the handle kits for portable generators might be useful here?

 

[tarmy]

I had a similar set up and wanted a hose reel too. I use mine to wash a lot of large areas so I needed 150’ of hose to avoid moving everything all the time. I built this for it. I put a nice long T handle to drag it around.

 

[MoonRise]

Bolt on some handles and done. Figure out where you want to bolt to and go for it.

And a +2 on take at look at the flip-up handles for some portable generators for possible ideas. You may (or may not) be able to just buy a handle kit and use it or adapt it to work with your existing frame.

A set of handles that go underneath the frame at the pump end and attach or go all the way to the frame at the engine end could work too. Attach the handles to the frame with some u-bolts or some brackets/plates is one option.

Welding can work too. Just be aware that if you are welding to stainless steel tube and you want things to remain stainless then you need to use proper stainless steel welding filler and techniques to maintain the "stainless" aspect of the stainless steel. If that matters to you.

Riv-nuts into the frame so you can bolt to the frame could be yet another attachment option.

Drill and pop-rivet some brackets or mounting plates to the frame could be another option.

Using some "handle bolts" could be another option for attaching the handles to the frame. Push lawn mower parts, about $5 for a pair (Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc). Drill a hole through your tube frame, file or dremel a square recess for the square shank of the bolt to fit into, and you have an attachment point for your handle.

Just where in the "northeast" are you? Cause I'm in the 'northeast' too. But your 'northeast' may be pretty far away from my 'northeast'.

@tarmy , nice cart. But the cart shelf underneath the engine looks like it obstructs putting an oil drain catch pan underneath the engine oil drain plugs. And I find it REALLY annoying when draining oil to have it not be able to drain straight down into a catch pan.

 

[tarmy]

^^^^
You are correct on the oil drain thing. I tried to think of a good way to make that easy. At first I thought of drilling a large diameter hole in that mounting plate to drain thru. Figured that would turn into a mess. Amazon has, for 20 bucks…a drain hose about a foot long with a plug that is made for these Honda engines. Seems to be a common issue. After that set of pics I added that and it hangs out clear of the frame and makes draining a easy and NOT messy thing.

 

[Beamer]

Bolt on some handles and done. Figure out where you want to bolt to and go for it.

And a +2 on take at look at the flip-up handles for some portable generators for possible ideas. You may (or may not) be able to just buy a handle kit and use it or adapt it to work with your existing frame.

A set of handles that go underneath the frame at the pump end and attach or go all the way to the frame at the engine end could work too. Attach the handles to the frame with some u-bolts or some brackets/plates is one option.

Welding can work too. Just be aware that if you are welding to stainless steel tube and you want things to remain stainless then you need to use proper stainless steel welding filler and techniques to maintain the "stainless" aspect of the stainless steel. If that matters to you.

Riv-nuts into the frame so you can bolt to the frame could be yet another attachment option.

Drill and pop-rivet some brackets or mounting plates to the frame could be another option.

Using some "handle bolts" could be another option for attaching the handles to the frame. Push lawn mower parts, about $5 for a pair (Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc). Drill a hole through your tube frame, file or dremel a square recess for the square shank of the bolt to fit into, and you have an attachment point for your handle.

Just where in the "northeast" are you? Cause I'm in the 'northeast' too. But your 'northeast' may be pretty far away from my 'northeast'.

@tarmy , nice cart. But the cart shelf underneath the engine looks like it obstructs putting an oil drain catch pan underneath the engine oil drain plugs. And I find it REALLY annoying when draining oil to have it not be able to drain straight down into a catch pan.

No oem handle kit is available. They sell the entire new version frame but it would run about $400 so that is out.

Bolt on solutions will take some thought. It has a very nice fully welded ss frame that is watertight and I am resistant to make bolt holes and a clamp system would be better.

I've done a bit of figuring and have an idea on how to improve on the mechanical advantage of lifting the unit making the required handle loads pretty insignificant.

I am thinking not having the supplemental handles permanently mounted would be a good thing to maintain the compact area it can currently store in so it's gotten a bit more complicated. I'm looking into tube to tube clamps with no penetrations, possibly some electrical or plumbing hardware. The original frame handle are splayed lengthwise so the extension will increase the length, so removing the extensions will be a good thing.