Pressure Washer Nozzle Brands?

[Beamer]

Is there a difference among brands in standard pressure washer nozzles with respect to durability?
By standard, I mean the four colored nozzles that some call "rinse" nozzles and not the turbo types.
I was wondering if manufacturers use different grades of steel to make some last longer than others.
If so, what brands do you like?

 

[Beamer]

A related question on nozzles used, do you generally use the orifice size that matches the maximum flow rate and pressure of your machine or adjust the choice of orifice to match the pressure needed (less than maximum pump capacity)?

 

[Tools4Me]

You match the orifice size to your pressure washer's max pressure and GPM spec. There are charts online that show the correct orifice size based on your specs. I attached one I found to ths post. In general, most decent capability homeowner sized machines will use a size 3 orifice, more commercial higher capacity machines often use a size 4 orifice. My personal use machine is a 7HP 3,000psi 2.6GPM unit, so I use 3.0 orifice sized tips.

In terms of the spray tips themselves, I've never bought or tried the cheap no-name 5-6pc tip sets on amazon for $6 before, so I don't know how good they are. I try to stick with well-known established brands whenever I can. In general, I don't use the standard tips for much other than spraying cleaner/soap, for rinsing something like a vehicle after washing it, or for cleaning delicate surfaces where I might be worried about paint chipping off or something similar. I use a surface cleaner attachment instead for cleaning concrete driveways, brick walkways, etc. Much faster and more consistent results compared to doing the job with a spray tip. My clothing also stays a lot dryer and cleaner while working, because there is almost no deflected water spray or dirt hitting my legs like there often is when using a standard spray nozzle tip. You size a surface cleaner to your pressure washer's specs just like you do for a spray tip. For jobs like spraying dirt or grime off of the vertical edge of concrete steps, or for getting into corners and tight areas, I usually use a turbo nozzle. Again, for most of the jobs the average person will be using a pressure washer for a turbo nozzle works noticeably better and is faster than a standard spray tip.

I usually buy Simpson brand when it comes to pressure washer accessories, tips, wand extensions, etc. Their accessories are usually noticeably better quality than the cheaper no-name stuff you see everywhere but they don't usually cost much more.

The surface cleaner I use-

Amazon.com

The turbo nozzle I have (3.0 orifice size)-

Amazon.com

The tips I use (3.0 orifice size)-

Amazon.com

The wand extension I have (so my lower back doesn't wear out from bending over constantly)-

Amazon.com

 

[Beamer]

Tools4Me,
Thanks for all that information.
Part of the question is in mind is whether users adjust the nozzle choice for orifice going into the chart at a lower actual user pressure than maximum rating for the specific machine.
For example, my machine is rated at 2000 psi and 3.2 gpm. To avoid interpolation say it's 3 gpm so the spec'd orifice in the chart is 4.5.
(The pressure washer actually came with 5.0 when new)
But if I just typically use 1200 psi and going to the chart with that the chart specs an orifice of 5.5.
Or is that not an appropriate way to use the chart?

 

[Tools4Me]

I think I see what you're asking. The most important spec related to orifice sizing is the GPM spec, because the GPM capability of your pump is pretty firmly fixed, no matter what the output pressure ends up being as long as the orifice you are using is the proper size recommended for your machine or larger. Yes, if you move up to a 5.5 orifice tip, you would keep your hypothetical 3.0GPM flow rate and your output pressure would drop to 1,200psi. You would just be reducing your machine's overall capability by doing that though, because you will have the same GPM flow rate you originally had, but the water will be coming out the tip with less force (pressure) than it would be if you were using a smaller 4.5 orifice tip. You would essentially be making your pressure washer operate as if it was a smaller less-capable unit. Your pressure washer is able to do the most work per hour of run time when the orifice is sized based on the max pressure and GPM spec together, which would be a 4.5 size orifice in your example.

Is there a specific reason why you want your output pressure to be 1200psi instead of 2000?

 

[Stelzer]

I buy 1/4" meg nozzles from various pressure washing vendors and almost always try to source them locally. Most of the ones sold at home improvement stores are fine for homeowner use and there isn't a whole lot of difference between any of them. There are specialty tips available from vendors that are better than others, but as long as you're sizing your tips based off desired PSI given your pump's GPM, store bought ones are fine. They are cheap consumables.

I size my tips based off what I'm washing and whether the tip I'm using will be for a gun/wand or surface cleaner. Always for max GPM and typically about 50% of max PSI, (except for surface cleaning, which is done at about 70% max PSI. GPM's have much more bearing on cleaning efficiency than PSI. I can wash 5-6 homes/day including transit @ 10GPM's & less than 2k PSI, but I wouldn't be able to wash 3 homes/day with 2GPM's & 10k PSI.

 

[Beamer]

I think I see what you're asking. The most important spec related to orifice sizing is the GPM spec, because the GPM capability of your pump is pretty firmly fixed, no matter what the output pressure ends up being as long as the orifice you are using is the proper size recommended for your machine or larger. Yes, if you move up to a 5.5 orifice tip, you would keep your hypothetical 3.0GPM flow rate and your output pressure would drop to 1,200psi. You would just be reducing your machine's overall capability by doing that though, because you will have the same GPM flow rate you originally had, but the water will be coming out the tip with less force (pressure) than it would be if you were using a smaller 4.5 orifice tip. You would essentially be making your pressure washer operate as if it was a smaller less-capable unit. Your pressure washer is able to do the most work per hour of run time when the orifice is sized based on the max pressure and GPM spec together, which would be a 4.5 size orifice in your example.

Is there a specific reason why you want your output pressure to be 1200psi instead of 2000?

Thanks.
The only reason I was looking into it is to see of there was any advantage setting up for the lesser pressure.
I only use mine to clean white cedar shingles and occasionally the vehicles and keep the pressure down there.
I guess there is no reason to buck the standard for sizing based on full capacity of the pump but I appreciate the information that flow rate is where to focus interest.

 

[Beamer]

I buy 1/4" meg nozzles from various pressure washing vendors and almost always try to source them locally. Most of the ones sold at home improvement stores are fine for homeowner use and there isn't a whole lot of difference between any of them. There are specialty tips available from vendors that are better than others, but as long as you're sizing your tips based off desired PSI given your pump's GPM, store bought ones are fine. They are cheap consumables.

I size my tips based off what I'm washing and whether the tip I'm using will be for a gun/wand or surface cleaner. Always for max GPM and typically about 50% of max PSI, (except for surface cleaning, which is done at about 70% max PSI. GPM's have much more bearing on cleaning efficiency than PSI. I can wash 5-6 homes/day including transit @ 10GPM's & less than 2k PSI, but I wouldn't be able to wash 3 homes/day with 2GPM's & 10k PSI.

Ok. Another vote that maximum flow rate is the item of most interest. Thanks.